Slim Posted April 27, 2014 Share Posted April 27, 2014 I know this question comes up quite a lot and I have read several threads asking similar but everyones situation is a little different.I currently image with a non-modded 1100d on a 250PDS. Ideally I'd like to keep it non modded as I use it for daytime photography as well. I'm looking at purchasing a CCD camera to go that next step. I don't have a preference for what I image, a bit of everything really. The 314L+ gets a lot of recommendations as a very good bang for the buck CCD. I realise that my 1200mm FL on the 250PDS is on the long side and using the sensor tool in Stellarium has given me some idea of what I could fit in the frame. M42 for example, which just fit in the frame with my 1100d wouldn't with the 314L+.The price of the 314L+ with filters is around the price I am currently prepared to spend. So I guess my question is, would the 314L+ with my current scope be a good choice or should I really be looking to get a shorter FL scope to get the best out of a change to CCD and their smaller sensor sizes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swag72 Posted April 27, 2014 Share Posted April 27, 2014 The 314L+ really is a great camera and you will love the extra sensitivity that a mono CCD brings as well as the lack of noise. I think whether the smaller field of view with your scope is purely a personal choice. There are many large DSO's out there that will be crying out for a shorter focal length. You either bite the bullet and get an 80ED equivalent for the larger DSO's or resign yourself to a season of many mosaics!!!Personally I'd get a shorter length scope, but that would be my choice. As a camera / scope combo the 314L+ is good with what you have now and will be just as good with something else!! It's really a choice you need to make on what you want to image and how you are prepared to do so. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ollypenrice Posted April 27, 2014 Share Posted April 27, 2014 I've used this chip at 950mm. It is nice in galaxy season and is fine for plenty of planetaries but it does give a limited field. WIth your scope I'd be more inclined towards the 383. In a nutshell I agee with Sara. I'd also be aware that the 285 sized chips are becoming less desirable so a) they make a good bet second hand and b ) they might have poor residual value when you wanted to move on. Great chip that it is, I think the 285 is coming towards the end of its life.Olly Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slim Posted April 28, 2014 Author Share Posted April 28, 2014 Thanks for your input guys. I spent most of yesterday researching and reading other peoples experiences and it seems everyone has exactly the same dilemma. So I don't feel half as bad about the decision I need to make! I definitely see an 80ED in my future Sara but I'm happy that my current scope is useable with a ccd for the present. And the 383 does look very tempting Olly, certainly the KAF8300 seems a better option considering the size of sensor I am used to using. It's probably a little more than I was prepared to spend but there is no point spending a lot of money on something that isn't suitable. More research needed I feel but you have both given some great advice to set me on the right path, so thanks very much. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GuillermoBarrancos Posted April 28, 2014 Share Posted April 28, 2014 Thanks for your input guys. I spent most of yesterday researching and reading other peoples experiences and it seems everyone has exactly the same dilemma. So I don't feel half as bad about the decision I need to make! I definitely see an 80ED in my future Sara but I'm happy that my current scope is useable with a ccd for the present. And the 383 does look very tempting Olly, certainly the KAF8300 seems a better option considering the size of sensor I am used to using. It's probably a little more than I was prepared to spend but there is no point spending a lot of money on something that isn't suitable. More research needed I feel but you have both given some great advice to set me on the right path, so thanks very much.You can just buy the Mono camera first and do some Mono (Luminance) imaging for time being, while saving up for your first filters and then filterwheel.It´s what I am going to do myself. This way I can spend more on the camera first and get the camera I really want, instead of cutting over 500 euros in my camera budget towards a filterwheel and filters and having to settle on a camera I deep down not really want.The first filter you can buy would possibly be a 7nm Ha filter for example. And then expand your filter collection from there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slim Posted April 28, 2014 Author Share Posted April 28, 2014 You can just buy the Mono camera first and do some Mono (Luminance) imaging for time being, while saving up for your first filters and then filterwheel.It´s what I am going to do myself. This way I can spend more on the camera first and get the camera I really want, instead of cutting over 500 euros in my camera budget towards a filterwheel and filters and so compromising on the camera.The first filter you can buy would possibly be a 7nm Ha filter for example. And then expand your filter collection from there.Thanks for the input Guillermo. That is a possibility but am I not more likely to get a better deal if I buy the camera, filter wheel and filters as a package? Another question I have is what are the benefits of an OAG. I currently guide with a QHY5-II and SW Startravel 80 piggy backed on my scope. Would an OAG improve things, or maybe a better question would be, is my current guiding method detrimental? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carastro Posted April 28, 2014 Share Posted April 28, 2014 Personally I'd get the Atik314L as you can use this with your 250PDS for the smaller objects and this will be a great FOV. I'd recommend instead of the Ed80 (which is a great scope) that you get something even smaller like the WOZS71 (which I have) and the focal reducer. I wish I had had that scope when i first bought the 314L as I found it too small a chip to get the large stuff in on the ED80 and traded it in for a 383L. Great camera but does have a few disadvantages due to the shutter and getting the field flat.So in summary I'd get an Atik314L and a WOZS71 and reducer and use this combi for larger objects and the Atik314L and 250PDS for the smaller stuff.Wish i had known this when I traded in my 314 for a 383 as now I have come full circle and have both cameras. Carole Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GuillermoBarrancos Posted April 28, 2014 Share Posted April 28, 2014 Personally I'd get the Atik314L as you can use this with your 250PDS for the smaller objects and this will be a great FOV. I'd recommend instead of the Ed80 (which is a great scope) that you get something even smaller like the WOZS71 (which I have) and the focal reducer. I wish I had had that scope when i first bought the 314L as I found it too small a chip to get the large stuff in on the ED80 and traded it in for a 383L. Great camera but does have a few disadvantages due to the shutter and getting the field flat.So in summary I'd get an Atik314L and a WOZS71 and reducer and use this combi for larger objects and the Atik314L and 250PDS for the smaller stuff.Wish i had known this when I traded in my 314 for a 383 as now I have come full circle and have both cameras. Carole Why would you go back to a tiny chip 314 from a 383? Uranium235 for example, is succesfully imaging with his Atik 383L+ on the 130PDS and the results are impressive. He had to fiddle a bit tho, with spacers, etc to get spacing and distance right till he achieved the flat Field.But that´s inherent to large sensors! The KAF8300 is a large sensor, so you have to take the extra steps.Regarding the mechanical shutter, yes that can be a dissadvantage if you want to be able to take very short exposures under a second.But than I would rather take the jump to a KAI 04022 sensor (Atik 4000 or Moravian G2-4000) to keep a similar FOV as the KAF8300.If you want larger pixel size, the KAI 04022 will also fit that bill, with a pixel size Close to that of the 285 sensor in the Atik 314L+.Just my 2 cents. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carastro Posted April 28, 2014 Share Posted April 28, 2014 Why would you go back to a tiny chip 314 from a 383?I find it easier to get the smaller stuff, the field is flatter and easier to get good focus close in. Carole Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GuillermoBarrancos Posted April 28, 2014 Share Posted April 28, 2014 I find it easier to get the smaller stuff, the field is flatter and easier to get good focus close in. Carole Yes I guess if your interest is mainly small targets, then you don´t need the extra fuss that comes with a large sensor.That´s a very good point.But would you then not rather go for the Atik 428EXM instead? Especially if you aim is small faint stuff, you can definitely benefit from the very high and broad QE range of this camera.These New Sony sensors are very impressive in that regard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carastro Posted May 1, 2014 Share Posted May 1, 2014 I've got both the 383 and the 314 Guillermo so I can swap as necessary.Carole Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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