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Dec guiding trace


Dave_D

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I can see the progressive error on the graph but I can't see what corrections were applied (by PHD) whilst it was happening. If the attempted corrections were also getting larger and larger then I'd say the DEC axis was sticking and finally it moved, or it could be PHD itself which ignored the drift until it finally sent a correction command. Drift in DEC only indicates an error in polar alignment (or significant flexure in your mount/scope/camera attachment).

ChrisH

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I just did a few checks and it appears that my mount is not holding polar alignment :/ just realigned twice and within a few minutes, it had slipped. No way i can replace the mount so i guess that's it for imaging for the forseeable future :( unless i can think of a way to fix this.

The az bolts are in good condition but the aluminium they push against has seen better days... ho hum...

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I just did a few checks and it appears that my mount is not holding polar alignment :/ just realigned twice and within a few minutes, it had slipped. No way i can replace the mount so i guess that's it for imaging for the forseeable future :( unless i can think of a way to fix this.

The az bolts are in good condition but the aluminium they push against has seen better days... ho hum...

Is it dropping in alt or spinning in az?

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You can get thread inserts for the bolts - so that's not a worry.

Any workshop will do that for 20 quid.

I'm more concerned about the amount of grot stuck inthe bearings or gears that might produce that sort of trace.

If it's in Dec, it's trying to spin the top bit which I guess is a little easier to service.

It may be a matter of slipping out the motors and cleaning the gears and maybe undoing the plate under the Dec section (hex bolts) that holds the worm and cleaning the worm and wheel and resetting. Does it make a lot of noise?

Keep an ear out for the grinding of paint chips!! and overstressed motors!

I hope it isn't serious.

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Sorry, it's the altitude that's slipping.

The bolts and threads are fine. The problem is that the aluminium casting that the two bolts push against is badly scored and has a worn groove that the bolt ends are pushing in to, and this wear seems to be lettin the alt slip.

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You could always grind it off, drill through then use a bolt with a few nuts on, ensuring the flats are lined up with the az bolts. Not nescessarily pretty but if used with studlock, it will work okay and it's free.

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Attach a SS plate to each side of the push lug with epoxy resin - the bolts can push all day on that.

By the way - update to PHD2 and you'll get the correction signal on the graph to tell you whether it's the software or hardware malfuntioning!

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If you could lock the Alt adjuster where it is, roughly correct, by a drill and pin method you could then fine tune the Alt adjustment by tilting the mount on its tripod or pier adjuster. Mounts don't need to be level to have perfect polar alignment and this tilt method is widely used by Tak mount owners living north of the rather limited region for which the mount was designed.

Olly

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If you could lock the Alt adjuster where it is, roughly correct, by a drill and pin method you could then fine tune the Alt adjustment by tilting the mount on its tripod or pier adjuster. Mounts don't need to be level to have perfect polar alignment and this tilt method is widely used by Tak mount owners living north of the rather limited region for which the mount was designed.

Olly

I've looked into using the levelling bolts on my pillar but they're somewhat course, but it is a possibility. I need to find something i can sit the end of the bolt in to counteract the rotational effect of turning the bolt as it knocks the azimuth off so i end up having to make alt and az adjustments at the same time. I'm a bit apprehensive about drilling through the mount though as i don't have access to a pillar drill to do the job properly.

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What about the EQ8 feet adjusters? These are feet that the tripod stands on but feet which can be adjusted for height.

Olly

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