Jump to content

Banner.jpg.39bf5bb2e6bf87794d3e2a4b88f26f1b.jpg

Tiny Small

Members
  • Posts

    576
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Tiny Small

  1. All valid points. As rto the first, I should have stipulated arc-saconds but didn't as I just assumed everybody used them as it's the only way to get meaningful data unless the guide setup is identical in every respect to the imaging set up. As for guide resolution and RMS, very good points. For anyone still reading this thread, could you please include your guide resolution as well. If people only have guide logs, that's also fine. I'm looking specifically at data from NEQ6/EQ6 mounts at the minute, though by the end of the project, the results will hopefully be transferrable to all Synta style EQ mounts.
  2. Ladies and gents, I need your help: For all owners of NEQ6/EQ6 mounts who image, would you mind sharing your guiding graphs with me? It's for a univesity project so I need guiding graphs from an average night's imaging with RMS displayed. If you are having issues, an older graph is fine, providing it displays the type of guiding you usually achieve. I also need to know whether you are running the original gearing or have the belt mod. No other data, personal or otherwise, will be collected. Any help you lot can give me would be greatly appreciated. Either post them here or PM me. Thanks in advance. Tiny.
  3. Ha to R, SII to G and OIII to B. It's a shame because this target can look stunning in the Hubble pallet, but 600s exposures just weren't long enough to pick up the sulphur. And although it's 18.5 hours of data, I honestly think it needs a lot more. Maybe double that.
  4. Spent a few nights on IC410. Unfortunately, there seems to be next to no SII around, at least not without going to much longer subs, so Ha is mapped to red in this. Ha; 67 x 300s OIII; 69 x 300s SII; 43 x 600s
  5. You're not the first person to mention that. A slightly warmer tone might improve it a bit. With regards to the histogram, the only way that I can see it being misleading is if the final image were composed of other images that had been only slightly clipped. If it was anything more than that, the histogram would show corrupted data. Having looked at the different layers used in this, none of them display clipped histograms. And I honestly can't see it. Maybe I should get my eyes checked? If one person says it's clipped, an argument can be made (and has been), but if others are saying the same thing, perhaps it's time to turn the gaze inwards.
  6. As is mine, but more importantly, the histogram shows that it is not clipped.
  7. I think that that might be your monitor as it looks fine on mine and the histogram shows no clipping.
  8. I revisited M33 over the last couple of nights whilst I was trying to sort some guiding issues out. L: 57 x 300s R: 25 x 300s G: 25 x 300s B: 25 x 300s Ha: 15 x 300s All at 200 gain, offset of 65 and temp of -20 C with the ASI 178 MM-Cool and the Altair 60 EDF.
  9. Don't know if it's just me or maybe my laptop, but it looks kind of dark. A boost to the midrange maybe?
  10. This is by far the biggest selling point for robotic focusers. A few years ago I got an old Robofocus as part of a used bulk buy and it has made life so much easier. If I had to buy one brand new though, I'm not sure that I would as they are very expensive to set up, as Olly said.
  11. The EQ5 should handle an 8 inch reflector for visual observing... just, but as others have said, for imaging, you'll need a smaller scope. I've imaged with the 130 PDS (Newtonian) and the Altair 60EDF (refractor) and my advice would be; when you come to decide on buying a scope for imaging, buy a small refractor. They are just easier to use and noting ever really goes wrong with them. They do have a higher capital outlay, but your saved time in the long run is worth more than that initial outlay. For observing, an 8 or 10 inch Newtonian will deliver stunning views.
  12. This is absolutely spectacular. And I agree with everyone else; the green works and gives it more depth.
  13. I've imaged this before with my old rig but thought I should try it with the new 60 EDF. There seems to be less detail, but overall I think a better image. The bubble is certainly more prominent, though that is due to having a lot more data. ASI 178 MM-Cool Altair 60 EDF with FF Altair 7 nm Ha and 6.5 nm OIII Ha; 50 x 300s OIII; 66 x 600s T; -20 C Processed in DSS and Photoshop CS5
  14. Using the Altair Astro 60 EDF scope and the ZWO 178 mm-cool camera.
  15. Just over 15 hours of data from the last three nights. To be honest, this target could use a fair bit more I think. SII 35 x 600s Ha 60 x 300s O3 54 x 300s
  16. Hello and welcome from sunny Didcot ?
  17. I'm the fatty that photographed his wedding. With regards to what I did here; I created a levels layer then went into each channel in levels and dragged the left slider to the start of the data, the right slider to the end of the flat line of data and used the middle slider to boost the colours. I then used a selective colour layer (found right at the bottom of the 'create new fill or adjustment layer' icon in the tray at the bottom right) and played about with the red, yellow and green channel, boosting yellows, lowering cyans and lowering and boosting magentas in the different channels until it looked more gold and blue. Used another level layer adjusting the middle slider to slightly correct then used ctrl, alt, shift and E to merge all the layers into a single new layer above everything else. On this new layer, I created a layer mask, clicked on the image part and used ctrl A, ctrl C to select and copy the entire image, then pressed Alt and clicked on the layer mask then crtl V. Clicked outside of the image to remove the marching ants then used ctrl I to invert the image. Once this was done, I went to Image>Adjustments>Levels and dragged the left slider right across to the middle of the data spike and the right one across to almost meet it. Right clicking on the mask allows you to select 'Refine mask>feather' and I applied a small feather to it to soften any transitions. After this I clicked back on the image portion and used 'Image>Adjustments>Black and white'. Flattened it all down and that's it.
  18. You've got great detail in the nebula and it's nice and sharp. There is a lot of colour going on in the background sky though and it looks like the SII data isn't showing through. SII is usually really faint and requires longer exposures (not that I'm an expert). The background sky can easily be solved by (in Photoshop) creating a star mask and desaturating. As for the SII, a levels adjustment and colour balance/hue/saturation adjustment might reveal a bit more, although looking online there doesn't seem to be masses of SII there. Just out of interest, are you Mike, Tony Ainsworth's mate? Here's a quick go with levels, selective colour and desaturation with a star mask. There is some clipping as I just used the low res image posted.
  19. Cheers Olly. I have to say, getting the right balance is a bit trickier than with LRGB. More rewarding though.
  20. I replied when I was half asleep last night, so I apologise for missing this bit out: the individual channels look fine, but the Ha has physically bigger stars and i think that, combined with aggressive stretching is what is causing the halos. I think it's a sub length and processing issue. I'll need to take a look at some individual subs.
  21. They're about the same price as the standard baader ones (£250 for three 1.25 inch filters Vs £270 for the baaders) and the o3 and S2 have a narrower range than the baader filters.
  22. Thanks. I'm using Altair Astro filters. 7Nm Ha, 6.5 Nm OIII and SII.
  23. Had a play with using a desaturation layer and some extra curves. Think it has improved it a bit.
  24. When I used to shoot fashion and beauty, the skin was edited by non-destructive dodging and burning at pixel level, with a person's face taking a day or two sometimes, so the method you suggest isn't that labour intensive. I think I'll stay away from blurs as it's very easy to mess it up and very hard to get it right, but if there aren't any decent ways of globally controlling the halos then next time, the clone tool around individual stars might be a sensible option or perhaps just painting them out on a colour layer. One thing that I didn't realise was that a luminance layer can be used with narrowband. Seems obvious when you say it but it just didn't cross my mind. I'm assuming it's usually a Ha layer?
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue. By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.