Are astrophotographers using computers to control their Cameras

[ASTRONOMO]

Knowing that long exposures are common in Astrophotography, is a Computers tethered to the camera, so exposure is controlled by an Application in the Computer? Or... the old fashioned way, manually open and then close the shutter when the timer bell rings?

Ciao,

Don

[Leveye]

Yes a computer is needed for very long exposures say over 2 minutes and using a telescope mount. You don't need a computer to track the sky for times of say 2 minutes and under with a very good polar alignment.

For very long exposures over 2 minutes I like to use a program called PHD that in conjunction with a guide scope and guide camera use a star to guide the mount. When the star moves the camera picks up the movement and the computer program then tells the telescope mount to stay fixed on it.Depending on the mount there will be a few different ways to hook them together. I use a USB cable with an RS232 to DB9 serial converter.

[baggywrinkle]

I have used Backyard EOS with my Canon 650D. It is a Canon dedicated package and it can be set to take any number of exposures at whatever exposure times you want to use. It can also be set to take darks as well. It is not an expensive piece of software either.

But you still need an EQ mount and one that can achieve a good polar alignment.

[Leveye]

You will need a program like PHD to control the mount to track the sky and a program like APT to control a DSLR camera and the exposures if that's what your planning on using.

I also like Stellarium or CDC planetarium programs to point the mount in the right general location in the sky before imaging. Welcome to astrophotography!

[wxsatuser]

You can manually open the shutter but a delay is useful to stop vibrations.

Here are two images from a 30 sec exposure manually pressing the shutter button on a Canon 60Da with

the self timer on a 10 second delay........set up all on an unguided HEQ5.

Image of the M52 area plus a crop of M52.....Canon 60Da 30sec@ISO 800.......SW ED80Pro+reducer+Hutech LP filter.

[Ant]

As I've progressed in the hobby, I've gone from film to digital and from completely manual control to full laptop automation.

I remember the first Venus transit, I sat at the end of the garden under a black out sheet looking through the view finder of the camera manually tracking the sun with the handset. Using a handheld IR remote to take around 900 images in the 8 or so hours of the transit.

My wife was kind enough to bring me down coffee and bacon sandwiches at regular intervals

That was a long but fun day.

Ant

[Ant]

BTW, using capital letter is generally regarded as poor etiquette as it comes across as shouting.

Cheers

Ant

[Astrosurf]

I've used my Canon SW but I've got lazy and use a programmable sutter release! I love it but it does cause the scope to wobble when I need to fiddle with it. As long as I'm gentle the guiding isn't affected. It's always what you prefer! Try Backyard EOS or/and APT and see how it goes. But as has been said, for long exposures you need a tracking mount and preferably autoguiding for anything longer than about 30-45 seconds.

[ollypenrice]

Of course, there's always the Hat Trick. You hold a hat in front the scope, open the shutter, let it settle then remove the hat to start the esposure...

An elegant refinement is to use an umbrella to block the aperture, since you can do this while remaining behind the scope. This was routine in the days of film SLR imaging.

Years ago I was doing this with a guest, a retired Nimrod pilot, and as we were getting ready I said, 'Where's the hat?'

'In the standy position.'

'Where's that?'

'On my head!!'

Olly

Seriously, I use CCD so it's operated through the PC. If I used a DSLR I'd certainly run it that way as well. Grubbing around in the muck on your kees fiddling with tiny buttons and a weeny screen pointing at the ground would make me consider taking up golf.

[glappkaeft]

There is also the middle road, the programmable remote (aka intervallometer). Nio computer required just put the camera in mirror lock, bulb and self-timer mode and set initial delay, exposure time to "desired length + self timer latency", delay between images and number of images (including infinity) and then press start.

You can get one from Ebay for less than £10. Camera brand ones are priced at ludicrous levels (often £100+ )

[ronin]

Don, the answer is Yes.

Assorted software packages as described or for less machinery try a remote timer, look up Shoot, from Amazon for your camera. Less cost/trouble and work pretty good.

[Ramsay]

Another vote here for Backyard EOS, a great bit of kit if you have a Canon SLR. I also use a Calumet intervalometer and Triggertrap which can be run from either an iPad or iPhone.

[ASTRONOMO]

Thank all of your 4 your responses. I will take your advice, continue to read and study the methods and when we set up the Telescope System we will give it  a try.

Ciao,

Don

[baggywrinkle]

Don, the answer is Yes.

Assorted software packages as described or for less machinery try a remote timer, look up Shoot, from Amazon for your camera. Less cost/trouble and work pretty good.

Hi Ronon, is there a link for the Shoot program you mentioned?

[laser_jock99]

No computer needed just get on of these (suitable for your camera model):

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Timer-Intervalometer-Remote-Shutter-Control-F-Nikon-D700-D300S-D800E-D200-D4-D3-/271151755452?pt=UK_Photography_DigitalCamAccess_RL&hash=item3f21e770bc