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Possible new focuser


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Baader Steeltrack. Very very close to Moonlite and half the price.

What sort of budget do you have?

Hoping for somewhere around £100, cheaper if possible.

The reason I've said 'possible' new focuser is I'm pretty certain there is a little slop in the stock one and being a collimation obsessive that's not good enough : (

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I would propose that for that money you're really not going to get a lot of improvement over the stock ... if your stock has dual speed on it?

There are lots of guides on improving and correcting slop in the stock focusers, I will try and find one out ...

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What do you want your focuser to do better? It currently has a single-speed Crayford on it, correct? If the action isn't already smooth then it can be modified to make it smooth. Someone in my club recently overhauled his focuser wrote up his work: http://www.custerobservatory.org/docs/comment.pdf (scroll down to page 16) You shouldn't need a fine focus knob at f/6 because the light cone isn't too steep and so focus isn't critical. However, if you want finer control then a cheap way to do it is to install an over-sized knob, which will give you a larger gear. There are cheap ways to do this.

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What do you want your focuser to do better? It currently has a single-speed Crayford on it, correct? If the action isn't already smooth then it can be modified to make it smooth. Someone in my club recently overhauled his focuser wrote up his work: http://www.custerobservatory.org/docs/comment.pdf (scroll down to page 16) You shouldn't need a fine focus knob at f/6 because the light cone isn't too steep and so focus isn't critical. However, if you want finer control then a cheap way to do it is to install an over-sized knob, which will give you a larger gear. There are cheap ways to do this.

Yes it's single speed.

There does seem too be 'a little play' when the eyepieces or collimation tool is in the focuser. Was just wondering what my best option was.

Thanks again

Ally

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Ally, is it a stock rack and pinion focusser ? If so, I have a much cheaper solution... apply teflon tape to the draw tube, takes out the slop in the drawtube really nicely. I've done it to both my refractor focussers and it's made them much much better. To the point, where, using a 2x barlow, I used to have to adjust the alignment of the scope to move the target back into the FOV, to where with a 5x barlow, there's barely any movement.

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Ally, is it a stock rack and pinion focusser ? If so, I have a much cheaper solution... apply teflon tape to the draw tube, takes out the slop in the drawtube really nicely. I've done it to both my refractor focussers and it's made them much much better. To the point, where, using a 2x barlow, I used to have to adjust the alignment of the scope to move the target back into the FOV, to where with a 5x barlow, there's barely any movement.

No it's a crayford style focuser. Obviously when you buy telescopes at the cheaper end of the market the manufacturers spend most of it on the optics so the result is not so good attachments e.g. Finder, focuser.

Just my opinion of course.

Ally

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No it's a crayford style focuser. Obviously when you buy telescopes at the cheaper end of the market the manufacturers spend most of it on the optics so the result is not so good attachments e.g. Finder, focuser.

Just my opinion of course.

Ally

Sorry, in that case, the tape won't be of help... It has been tried, but the way the drawtubes are fitted is different.

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Where is the play? Does the focuser draw tube move laterally in the body of the focuser or do eyepieces not fit tightly in the focuser draw tube?

Either way (and particularly if it's the latter) does it impact the views? How does it affect the readings of your collimation tools? Can you see the star test changing when you remove and re-insert an eyepiece? It's possible the focuser has a cheap feel but performs adequately in practice. Maybe the focuser feeling cheap is enough of a reason for you to upgrade (even if optically all is good), but that's a personal choice. Perhaps optically stuff is bad, though. Check and see...

Say that you do want to upgrade just for a nicer feel to the whole unit, even if optically it's all good. Perhaps a Moonlite isn't so out of the question for you. You don't need dual-speed at f/6 and so the standard Moonlite is an option. That's $165, which works out as $110. On top of that is shipping. There's a possibility you'll get stung with import, but you may well not do. So a new one should be yours for under 130 quid or so. Then again, if it's all good optically, you'd get more mileage out of something else such as a new eyepiece or a filter slide.

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Where is the play? Does the focuser draw tube move laterally in the body of the focuser or do eyepieces not fit tightly in the focuser draw tube?

Either way (and particularly if it's the latter) does it impact the views? How does it affect the readings of your collimation tools? Can you see the star test changing when you remove and re-insert an eyepiece? It's possible the focuser has a cheap feel but performs adequately in practice. Maybe the focuser feeling cheap is enough of a reason for you to upgrade (even if optically all is good), but that's a personal choice. Perhaps optically stuff is bad, though. Check and see...

Say that you do want to upgrade just for a nicer feel to the whole unit, even if optically it's all good. Perhaps a Moonlite isn't so out of the question for you. You don't need dual-speed at f/6 and so the standard Moonlite is an option. That's $165, which works out as $110. On top of that is shipping. There's a possibility you'll get stung with import, but you may well not do. So a new one should be yours for under 130 quid or so. Then again, if it's all good optically, you'd get more mileage out of something else such as a new eyepiece or a filter slide.

This is all excellent info, I'll let you know after tonight.

Cheers & clear skies

Ally

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