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question time......best camera for astro video


shirva

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Been a while since this question was asked. ..and with this forum getting more active ...so to help anybody thinking of getting into near live view videocapture...

What camera would you buy ...the budget is 300 pounds...and why..advantages ect......Davy

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I would most likely take a shot at the ZW Optical ASI 120 MC.

Will do video and long exposures and appears to cover most bases that you could start out with and progress on to before deciding that an ungrade was necesary. Could I suspect decide no need to upgrade.

Sure I have read mention of a ASI 130 MC as well as the present MM (mono) camera but nothing on the ZW site so that may be wishful thinking.

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These look very interesting - I've seen some gat DSO pictures taken with them, however I'm not sure how they'd perform at 10-20 second exposures that are typically used in near real time video astronomy.

If you get one let us know how you get on.

Clear skies

Paul

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Here's some photos including DSOs taken with the ASI120

http://zwoptical.com/Eng/Galleries/ASI120.asp

The M51 is stunning and was taken with 9s exposure (200 stacked) albeit with a 300mm F5 scope.

I'd be interested in seeing a single frame taken with this camera at these kinds of exposure - the USB interface would be a step up from the video dongle used with the Samsung.

The ASI130MM used the same sensor as the QHY5 guide cam and some people have achieve decent DSO viewing/photos with this.

These are CMOS cameras and are not as sensitive as the Sony CCD used in the Samsung - however they look very interesting.

Have a look at what Nytecam achieves with his Lodestar-C (out of budget at about £385) but the Lodestar uses the 1/2" version of the Sony CCD. Alan Potts has a Mammut L429 colour with is about the same price and same chip but has built in cooling.

Nytecams website is here:

http://home.freeuk.com/m.gavin/eyelode2.html

I'm seriously considering one of these 1/2" CCD cameras - the SCB4000 which uses the same chip is £250 - for another £150 you get a dedicated astro camera with full control over exposure and a USB interface.

I'm not going over to the dark side though - I'd still use it for short exposure near real time viewing on my AZ Minitower - no polar alignment or guiding for me!

Mind you Davy, there may be no need to tinker with the camera so what would you do when it's cloudy ;)

Food for thought.

Paul

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You ever been to cumbernauld oaul its constantly cloudy or raining here.....think I'd need to jump hadrians wall to get decent weather here...where's my next mod now ah rc focusser I believe lol...Davy

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Hi all, at the cheapest end I personally think it would be difficult to beat the Samsung 2000p. At the price of £80 - £90, the features and control you get are more than enough for starting and learning your way into video astronomy.

It should'nt be forgotten that with the addition of a lens they are excellent for widefield meteor/ satellite watching live without even attaching to a scope.

There probably are cheaper cameras out there, but as we recently found, the postage and taxes to obtain them is just not worth it.

Video, I think is the best and cheapest way to start in astrophotography, you dont even require a motorised mount!

Well thats my two cents lol

Cheers Carl

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Motor drive a must for tracking moon.....waiting on part for my eq3 ....manual slewing not for me lol....but must agree samsung scb2000 is good I got mine for under 50 quid new...visual with the Phillips spc900 was good but cost me more..55 quid.

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Certainly looking for a second (third? LOL) camera to do (so many) things. Electronic finder, Scope monitor (for remote control), Site Security even? <G> From now on it / they would have to be (much!) cheaper than my (albeit beloved) Watec 120N+ though! :p

FULL remote control would be a definite plus. The latest Watec has 4x the sensitivity, but I don't see much advantage having "on screen menus", if you have to push buttons on the back of the Camera? For "indoor remote astronomy", I have convinced myself I only need TWO basic settings anyway. One "fast" (To focus on a bright star) - One "slow" - (10s, 5s, even 2.5s?) integration and I'm happy. :)

Aside: Someone (webstite) had *measured* the effect of hardware gamma adjustment re. the Watec. He concluded that higher gamma gave an increase of gain, but added an equal amount of NOISE! So don't need "gamma" adjustment either? But food for thought, anyway! Currently trying more to improving my image processing and leaving the camera controls at their default settings...

P.S. Glad to see more activity here. Love Nytecams "shameless propoganda" site - All so TRUE! :D

Macavity / Chris

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