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Carl Reade

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About Carl Reade

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    Antrim
  1. Hi you should get a result without a line amp but I would use one to compensate for mismatch, cable loss and connectors etc. Ref the painting there is no reason you can't paint over the connector plate and nuts as long as they are making an electric connection to the tube.
  2. I used to post and have seen all the names and changes over the years personally it won't change anything. I found folks to be far too uptight about what it's called, this camera is better, strict amounts of exposure that should be allowed, what processing was allowed the list goes on. As for EAA it's wholly inaccurate. It covers everything from a lunminated eyepiece to a driven mount. Video is also now inaccurate as it's not video unless it's a planet cam or a Watec camera. The rest is basically fast imaging. This includes older Mallincams onwards. They take a set exposure and stack wether it be within the camera or using software. On the other side of the coin imagers don't see it as their sport as it's not to their standards. So it has remained in no man's land. People usually find it due to stumbling along it in a forum. I would think most who start to think about placing a camera on a scope logically go to the imaging section and that in my opinion is where this section should be as that's what it is only fast. Carl
  3. I can't see where 20v mentioned? Adam based his system on LNA4ALL which are fed with 5v (or can take 9v) Your bias tee doesn't mention what current it can supply so cant answer. You need one that can supply the current for the LNA and line amp. Yes sat coax is 75 Ohm but the lowest loss at these frequencies and with the gain involved the mismatch is negligible.
  4. Hi forget Adams design as it's based on 5 Volts. Your LNA and line amps require 12 Volts. The bias tee is rated at 65 V at 1 Amp so can run all. All coax cables are shielded or they are an antenna including SMA. So you use satellite coax from the LNA through the the line amps the whole way back to the bias tee. Then from the bias tee to the filter then the dongle you can use SMA 5 cm tails. That way the filter is not at the power side of the bias tee.
  5. Probably need to look at wave guides and transmission lines. The feed is a wave guide or think of it as a filter and you want that filtered frequency maintained within the coax. The fed doesn't need to be in contact with the dish as most satellite LNBs are held in plastic to the dish. The attaching of the feed horns and materials is probably more a strength and convenience issue. Again it's an antenna theory subject which others may know better. Here's a useful gif.
  6. Feed should be fine with contact. I've seen many feed horns attached this way.
  7. Yes it absolutely needs grounded to the structure is the short answer. Regarding material doesn't really matter. Weathering is probably more important.
  8. Nice setup. What radio astronomy are you doing at the moment? Carl
  9. Hi all the ES Hail 2 satellite is now up and running (first geostationary amateur radio sat). The downlink is around 10.5 GHz narrowband SSB. Amateurs are now actively modifying LNBs to stabilize the local oscillator to stop drift using GPS etc. If building an interferometer using LNBs could be worth following. https://wiki.batc.org.uk/Es'hail-2_LNBs_and_Antennaes There is more info out there.
  10. Correct configuration as long as bias tee is the right way around and supplying at least 12v.
  11. G8FEK.com sells exactly what your looking for and roughly same price as the discontinued one in your link.
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