Carl Reade

Can be a any type of metal, but needs to be weather resistant.

Have a look at this link from the PARAC site. http://parac.eu/projectmk3.htm

Hi probably around a minimum of 5 meters of distance from radio gear to PC. It would also be beneficial to have the receiver in a metal box. I have had the receiver beside the PC without any problems but depends on your rf environment. You won't know what interference, if any, until you look at the band. Regards Carl

Hi if you have a read through the thread most of what you are asking is in there.

Hi not sure who the youngest would be. Not too many magazines on the subject it's a small sport. SARA group is very good to join. This site has been invaluable for me the CFRAD software works great. Have a read at the projects section particularly 3 and 9 to see what is achievable with the basics. http://parac.eu/

Hi there are quite a few options on eBay at that price. Wideband LNAs with a bias tee circuit or screw terminals for power. Why do you think yo destroyed your current one? Carl

Hi I can vouch for G8FEK LNAs. Very professional and solid. I have the 1300 -1700 and has easily allowed me to observe the hydrogen line. I would definitely add the wideband LNA to your gear if using an SDR as they are not the most sensitive devices and won't overload it at all. Without going deep into the dark art of antenas my favourites for HF are the Cobweb or the doublet which is fed with ladder line to an MFJ tuner. A lot of long wire users tend to use a 9:1balun to match Carl

It will work fine. I think what UR is saying is the plate on the feed is a reflector which it is but not the main reflector. Copper will need sprayed with a coating to protect it from the weather. Keep us updated on the build.

Love to see some spectrum guys results here. It does look dim to the naked eye. Are we in for a big bang?

As long as the sides are 90 deg to eachother I'm sure you can have a small curve.

Looks like you will be up and running soon. What size of dish are you using? Carl

Ahh it is thin so was able to bend it into shape.

Hi Fedor basically I had to cut a hole in the centre of the plate and screw a small price of copper circuit board to a female N connector. So the screws go through the plate and N connector. The. I soldered a small price f hard coax to the copper plate using the correct spacing from the plate. Then I soldered the "bow to the coax. The top middle of the bow to the centre core and the bottom centre to the outer coax. As I used hard coax its outer is like copper tube and was enough to support the bow. It is far easier if you can get a piece of copper plate and solder a small copper pipe to it and then you just feed coax though it. The second pic is an easier way. I would also mention that you need to solder with a blowtorch to get enough heat and plumbing solder. Hope this makes sense. Carl.

Have a read through the thread there are lots of links and diagrams to get you started. Carl