Suggest a more "high power" imaging scope?

[kirkster501]

Hi, I am still a little unsure where to go. I have an ED80 - a cracking scope - but thinking's of getting something to give greater detail on DSO objects like M1,M57 etc.

I thought of a SW F4 quatto but the collimation requirements put me off a little. So a C9.25 with a reducer is another option. I like SCT's a lot but I know some experts like Olly have reservations about these due to the long FL and I never heard Steve mention he has one. A SW 200p is an option perhaps?

So any ideas about what to do? Not in a hurry and reviewing whats out there. I am going to get more experience with my ED80 before I do anything else. I woudl not want to spend much more than £1000 or so £1500 tops.

Thanks, Steve

[bus_ter]

SCT's Jack of all trades.. master of.. Planetary images! :-)

The C9.25 is a slightly different design than the others in the range, the design was tweaked for imaging on large flat sensors (i.e film). It's also more tolerant to collimation errors than others in the range. They're not generally bought for DSOs in particular, but they can be used for this task. Would give you a massive aperture boost though!

[Gina]

The next scope I'm thinking of to add to the ED80 (in a few year's time) is the Skywatcher 190MN - a Mak Newt Astrograph. Lots of imagers use them. http://www.firstligh...astrograph.html

[Spikey]

Are you using the Canon 1100D?

Wouldn't upgrading your camera for a smaller chip to give you a better FOV be a better idea?

Sky conditions plus getting the guiding spot on and longer, more subs will help you with detail more than the scope.

[Gina]

Are you using the Canon 1100D?

Wouldn't upgrading your camera for a smaller chip to give you a better FOV be a better idea?

Sky conditions plus getting the guiding spot on and longer, more subs will help you with detail more than the scope.

Yes, my next major upgrade will be to buy an Atik 314L+ mono CCD plus a wodge of filters. The big upgrade after that will be a bigger scope. I was just answering the question based on the assumption that the camera was already an astro CCD.

[Spikey]

Yes, my next major upgrade will be to buy an Atik 314L+ mono CCD plus a wodge of filters. The big upgrade after that will be a bigger scope. I was just answering the question based on the assumption that the camera was already an astro CCD.

Gina, I was answering Kirksters question, I know you use a 1100D He didn't mention which camera he was using

[Gina]

Gina, I was answering Kirksters question, I know you use a 1100D He didn't mention which camera he was using

Beg your pardon

[Spikey]

Beg your pardon

no worries

[kirkster501]

Hi, yes 1100d is my imaging device and will be for a while yet - and I may have it modded - I am not ready for a CCD yet. But I have a large bonus due to me shortly and a new scope is on the cards. The astrograph Mn190 is another option on the cards.

Thanks for you thoughts.

Steve

[ollypenrice]

Hi, I am still a little unsure where to go. I have an ED80 - a cracking scope - but thinking's of getting something to give greater detail on DSO objects like M1,M57 etc.

Thanks, Steve

I think it would help to clarify the terminology. 'Detail.' By this I suspect you mean image scale or 'closing in' on a smaller target? This means having more focal length. M1 is a smallish target and needs a longish focal length. If you want to keep a reasonably fast F ratio for imaging then this extra focal length is going to have to be matched by more aperture or your optics will get to be too slow. So I would decide on what sort of FL you will need to do the imaging that you fancy and then see what will be possible in terms of size and your mount. To model FLs/chip sizes on the sky Google The Free CCD Calculator, Ron Wodaski. Personally I wouldn't do DS imaging at anything slower than F8 and if you ask me in a couple of years that will probably have changed to F6 because the more I do the more convinced I am that F ratio is king.

Going for a smaller chip won't get you anywhere. You will have exactly the same image scale on any chip, you just won't have as much sky around your object! Having a small chip is no different from cropping off the edges of a larger chip.

In reality most amateurs can seriously aspire to a short focal length fast astrograph but not to a long focal length fast astrograph. We all accept that longer focal lengths really mean slower scopes.

Olly

[Pomerol]

Steve, I bought a Mak-Newtonian 190mm almost 2 years ago after 12 months of struggling to get an F4 8 inch Newtonian "Astrograph" to hold collimation. At the time I was thinking of moving to a Refractor and posted on a forum asking for advice.Olly recommended the M-N and I am really happy I followed his advice.

At F5.3 the M-N ticks most of the boxes for Deep Sky photography and is a dream to use.I check the collimation every few weeks but haven't made any adjustments for over 6 months.

You will not regret it if you eventually buy one.

Rgds

Ian Smith

[Komet]

Steve, I bought a Mak-Newtonian 190mm almost 2 years ago after 12 months of struggling to get an F4 8 inch Newtonian "Astrograph" to hold collimation. At the time I was thinking of moving to a Refractor and posted on a forum asking for advice.Olly recommended the M-N and I am really happy I followed his advice.

At F5.3 the M-N ticks most of the boxes for Deep Sky photography and is a dream to use.I check the collimation every few weeks but haven't made any adjustments for over 6 months.

You will not regret it if you eventually buy one.

Rgds

Ian Smith

Another MN190 user here. Can be a pain to collimate but once there they are lovely. I use a QHY IMG2Pro with mine (same as ATIK314 or H9 - Sony 285 CCD) and the whole thing performs well.

Things to bear in mind is the weight ... the MN190 plus camera, filters etc is quite a heavy lump. Originally I was using a dual mount with a ZS66SD as the guide scope. This on a NEQ6Pro. It was a dog - I was using 4 counterweights, really couldn't get it balanced and the guiding was poor. I then moved to an OAG (I had an SX wheel so I added the SX OAG + Lodestar), dropped a counterweight and now get superb guiding which is really necessary on this scope. The whole outfit now is gorgeous.

I have the MN190 for the closeups and the equally good ZS66SD for the wider shots. A good balance. The MN190 is a very good scope but it does need a decent setup overall to get the best out of it.

Images on my website - the setups used are listed with the images.

Steve: If you ever find yourself around Lincoln you are more than welcome to check out my MN190 setup if it would help and if you would like to.

[kirkster501]

Another MN190 user here. Can be a pain to collimate but once there they are lovely. I use a QHY IMG2Pro with mine (same as ATIK314 or H9 - Sony 285 CCD) and the whole thing performs well.

Things to bear in mind is the weight ... the MN190 plus camera, filters etc is quite a heavy lump. Originally I was using a dual mount with a ZS66SD as the guide scope. This on a NEQ6Pro. It was a dog - I was using 4 counterweights, really couldn't get it balanced and the guiding was poor. I then moved to an OAG (I had an SX wheel so I added the SX OAG + Lodestar), dropped a counterweight and now get superb guiding which is really necessary on this scope. The whole outfit now is gorgeous.

I have the MN190 for the closeups and the equally good ZS66SD for the wider shots. A good balance. The MN190 is a very good scope but it does need a decent setup overall to get the best out of it.

Images on my website - the setups used are listed with the images.

Steve: If you ever find yourself around Lincoln you are more than welcome to check out my MN190 setup if it would help and if you would like to.

Thanks Mick. I am often around Lincoln. Would love to take a look at you MN at some point buddy...? I have seen good reviews of the MN190 too. I am surprised a NEQ6 struggled though? I woudl intend to guide it with a ST80 - which I am about to buy for my ED80 outfit.

Rgds, Steve

[Pomerol]

Steve, I don't find the EQ6 struggles.

I am using 4 counterweights, have excellent balance and guiding with PHD am now doing 15 min subs as the norm when on NB.

Rgds

Ian Smith