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About bus_ter

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    Star Forming
  1. Sorry I haven't read the whole thread, but my initial thoughts are that you're not pushing the limits of the camera. All of these images are limited by your scope and I don't think the loss in quality using higher compression at higher frame rates is going to be noticeable. I think we would need someone with a large SCT to do these tests to see a clear loss in quality and detail from the higher fps.
  2. The big SCT's are usually the favoured choice of planetary imagers. The C-9.25 is probably the best value sweet spot, but the C-14 is obviously the daddy if you can afford it. If you're on a tight budget then the little MAK127 (sold in many brand names) is very good.
  3. Great image! - might be worth investigating 'MetaGuide' for collimation.
  4. From an email I sent.. thought there might be something useful. ------------------- Sorry for the delayed reply. I'll tell you what I've discovered so far. Normally I use sharpcap, however the binning mode didn't seem to work, so I have been using icap so far. The first thing I needed to change was the white balance values. I adjusted to get the gaps between the bands to look whiteish. Unselect Auto whiteBalance and start with values like: R=79, G=47, B=68. I left colour enhancement turned on. I use gain somewhere around 40-50, and then adjust the exposure to get Jupiter looking well exposed. (something like 1/34 - 1/15) I've been using Format Avi, and DV Video Encoder, however I haven't experimented with the compression tyres yet. Let me know what works best for you. Resolution I've been using either 640x480 without a barlow, or with a 3x barlow using 640x480 with 4x binning. The latter giving best results. I haven't been able to use the barlow without the binning and higher resolutions. I can't get a good enough image. I suspect the higher resolutions will work well for lunar imaging though! Let me know how you get on and what settings have worked best for you! Further regarding compression settings.. If you goto Record Video File -> Settings -> Video Compressor You can select uncompressed and then RGB32. That's probably going to produce the best image, but large file sizes. However I haven't experimented.
  5. Great images from the little scope. The Mak has always produced great images for it's size, and I think you've raised it's profile even more.
  6. There's one now going for £100 inc P&P http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Philips-SPC900NC-Webcam-astronomy-astrophotograp-hy-CCD-IR-filter-/170977691141?_trksid=p2047675.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222002%26algo%3DSIC.FIT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D11%26meid%3D5015211799395099868%26pid%3D100011%26prg%3D1005%26rk%3D2%26sd%3D221177187574%26
  7. Has a sort of water colour effect! :-)
  8. What sensor does the new Orion StarShoot Solar System Color Imager IV use? Possibly it's the same sensor used in the ASI120MC? (can anyone confirm that?) It's only £80 new, so you would be bonkers to spend twice that on a second hand webcam with USB1 and 5 year old sensor technology. They work well, but they've had their day IMHO. Camera technology moves quickly..
  9. As above, you need to find the exposure control and turn it down.
  10. Beautiful details. What was the scope used?
  11. Align box around the image? During AS!2 or RS6? In AS!2 I just put align points on manually picking features of the image such as bands. If I try auto align it's way off! Works fine if all the processing is done through RS6.
  12. You need to adjust the R G B sliders in the camera settings to get rid of the green. So far a 3x barlow in 4x binning mode has worked best. Without a barlow then 640x480 worked for me too.
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