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Dilemma


Kenza

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Hi! I plan to do AP with a camera since I already have a Canon 550D DSLR. What guiding solutions should I go for? I know I am getting a guiding scope, but should I use an off-axis guider or autoguider (with or without imaging capabilities). Or should I buy a CCD camera, but it would be a shame since I have a DSLR. I don't want to waste a lot of money. Thanks!

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Hi! I plan to do AP with a camera since I already have a Canon 550D DSLR. What guiding solutions should I go for? I know I am getting a guiding scope, but should I use an off-axis guider or autoguider (with or without imaging capabilities). Or should I buy a CCD camera, but it would be a shame since I have a DSLR. I don't want to waste a lot of money. Thanks!

What budget do you have?

What mount are you using?

Lots to consider before thinking about guiding.

Loads of peeps use DSLRs and get tremendous images.

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Hi! I plan to do AP with a camera since I already have a Canon 550D DSLR. What guiding solutions should I go for? I know I am getting a guiding scope, but should I use an off-axis guider or autoguider (with or without imaging capabilities). Or should I buy a CCD camera, but it would be a shame since I have a DSLR. I don't want to waste a lot of money. Thanks!

Hi

What scope do you have?

If its a newt/mirror based scope an OAG will help eliminate any mirror shift and flexure. The TS 9mm OAG will fit a cannon and still leave room for other accessories in the chain like a flattener, etc. Not the best quality OAG in the world, but it does work.

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This is for your new Equinox120? I'd pick up a cheap ST80, make sure all the screws are tight, fit it to the top of the 120 on a fixed bar (no need for guide rings or adjustable platforms) and use a small CCD camera like the QHY5. I would avoid standalone autoguiders and simply guide in PHD using a laptop.

Olly

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Good advice from Olly as usual :D

However I would suggest that you get to grips with AP with your camera for a few months, maybe over the winter season, then see how you feel about diving into a guided set up. This was my approach and it allowed me to learn the 'basics' of AP.

It allowed me to get to grips with things such as:

scope set up - balancing, cooldown;

polar alignment - levelling and aligning the scope to polaris for an accurate set up;

star alignment - if using GoTo.

It also allowed me to assess and learn the limitations of my mount and scope combination such as:

FOV with my DSLR on certain targets:

how far I could push subs unguided;

the best ISO combination;

How amplgow and noise on my DSLR sensor change over time.

Now I still using a DSLR for imaging and a finderguider to guide my set up. Ultimately I will be seeking a dedicated CCD and OAG, but currently plan to push the guiding with my DSLR this winter season as well as try more widefield AP.

HTH

I now

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The EQ6 is a great mount.

Personally, I think that you are right to start guiding early......it's what I did and it made a massive difference.

What about trying a finder-guider? You can get small adapters for not much money that allows you to mount a QHY5 onto the body of a 50mm finderscope. Hook it up to PHD and it works brilliantly.

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Guiding has got to be one of the best improvements you can make to imaging if you have a suitable setup. By that I mean that if you were using a small mount, I'd say not worth it, but with the EQ6, it will work well. Yes a CCD is more sensitive than a DSLR, but there are some great images out there taken with DSLR's - mostly though they are long exposures.

I use a finder guider and a QHY5, and it works a dream. If I couldn't have guiding AND a CCD, the guiding would be the last thing to go.

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I'm going to side with those who recommended starting a bit more slowly. There already is an awful lot to learn in astrophotography without all the extra cameras, cables and software pain involved with guiding.

I personally imaged unguided for about 18 Months before finally adding a fingerguider + webcam to my setup. I found baby steps is a good way to go, encouraging me to learn a more considered approach to routines such as polar alignment, focusing etc. Not to mention it's cheaper! (the real reason I don't buy lots of kit tbh!) That's just my 2 cents, anyway.

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