Help Please with Watec

[Stevie816]

Hi Everyone,

I.m using a Watec 120n with a focal reducer on my 10" Meade.

It all works fine but I'm dissapointed with the quality of the images I get. At present i'm stacking about 500 images in registax.

Can I have some guidelines where to start, For example If you wanted to photo M13 or 82

What settings would you use ?

How would you process the image?

I don't want to rival Damien Peach but it would be great to recognise what's on the screen !

Please help

Steve

[ismangil]

I'm currently reading Deep Sky Video Astronomy by Massey and Quirk.

It has loads to say on processing.

Worth a read, in my opinion.

On mobile (excuse the strange predictive words...)

[Stevie816]

Thanks Ismangil

I'll check it out

Steve

[Peter Drew]

I'm surprised that you have not obtained satisfactory images with your set up yet. I used to use a 120n on a 12" SCT with .33 reducer and managed unprocessed images far superior than those seen through the scope visually. The images were displayed on a decent TV monitor, I have to say I've yet to be impressed with the same set up but shown on a laptop screen.

[mike.brightmore]

Hi Steve

it would be useful if you could post some of the images you are getting.

[Macavity]

Yes, give us a look. <G> Personally, with an 8" / F4, for "galaxies", (from memory) I use e.g. an integrating Watec setting corresponding to 128 x 1/50sec. The screen updates every 5sec or so! Gain about 75%, Gamma set to "Lo". In real time, I can just about see the thermal noise. I synchronise the software sampling rate to the data rate (important!) and then record an AVI of 250 unique frames - That gives an actual "exposure" duration time of about 20min. But that more the limit of my patience for standing around - Or allowing a quick tea break indoors.

If you can "see it" (in real time) you should be able to image it? But a lot of things influence this. Ten inch Meade what? (SCT? Dob?). Type of mount (Static, Alt-Azimuth, Equatorial? Tip: In Registax (stacking), I try to "synch" on a bright star close to the DSO, if it is diffuse... like a Nebula or Galaxy. Some images turn out better than others! <shrug> Open clusters (M36, M37, M38 in Auriga) are a good targets to "learn" on. Globular clusters too, but their "cores" can get "artifact-prone" in the (internal, external) stacking? Galaxies with surface brightness > +12 work reasonably for me... +13, +14 are trickier, with my 8"/F4! But plenty of room for experiment? Don't despair yet...

[Stevie816]

Thanks for your suggestions Guys

I will have another go tonight

I have a 10 inch Meade sct on it's alt/az mount.

At the moment my pictures are far worse than what I see

I have attached my best yet capture from 800 frames.

I am really rubbish at this !!

Steve

saturn1.bmp

saturn4.bmp

[Stevie816]

Hi Mike

I found your pictures very useful and encouraging. I now have something to aspire to. watch out !

Steve

[Phil Fargaze]

Was you using the focal reducer for the Saturn pictures? Normally I would be using a barlow to increase the image size on a planet.

Generally in my exerience, I was getting better results with a web cam than with the Watec with planets. The Watec really comes into it`s own when it is used on the low light level DSO`s.

[Stevie816]

Hi Phil

yes i'm using a focal reducer 3.3, and a 2x Barlow

I thought it would be easier to learn on Planets and then move on to DSO's. Am i wrong ?

Steve

I have attached tonights effort

1000 frames stacked in registax

Saturn9.bmp

[Phil Fargaze]

Are you using the focal reducer and the barlow at the same time?

The latest image looks very good I would be happy with that myself.

[bhuvfe]

Hi Phil

yes i'm using a focal reducer 3.3, and a 2x Barlow

I thought it would be easier to learn on Planets and then move on to DSO's. Am i wrong ?

Steve

I have attached tonights effort

1000 frames stacked in registax

Hi Steve,

You don't need a focal reducer for planets. Try without it and if the seeing agrees use the 2X.

Anyway, your latest effort looks good to me too!

Clear skies,

Ant

[Macavity]

Yep, precisely so: Omit the reducer and add a 2x... (3x even) Barlow. As others have said, not a bad image for the Watec, under the circumstances.

As a bit of fun, without the barlow, you could try whacking the gain right up (Saturn will be overexposed!) and see which fainter satellites you can see...

[Stevie816]

Thanks again guys

I will be out on the next clear night to try your suggestions.

Also I will have a go at M13. Do you have any suggestions what settings I should start with. There are so many possibilities with all the kit.

And thanks for your encouragement and ideas everyone.

Keep watching this space

Steve

[Peter Drew]

Steve. For M13 use the F3.3 reducer set at its correct spacing, set the lo-med-hi setting to med, gain dial to halfway, integration to maximum and then wait for 10 seconds. Make sure you're sitting down before the image pops up!