M51 : Whirlpool Galaxy : 2nd Attempt

[coxy322]

Hey guys, what do you think of my second attempt at the Whirlpool.

Need to have another stab at processing to bring out some more of the colour. This is a total of 27 frames total 20.5Min Exp at 1600 ISO. No darks, no flats, no bias. Good seeing tonight eh!

[fmandani]

Hi, i recently bought a dobsonian 10" which i know is not great for imaging dso's.

I am an amateur and would love to hear some tips from you on finding m51 and how you got such a beautiful image!

[twotter]

That's very nice! It has a real sense of movement to it

[Gina]

Pretty good that Yes, it could do with more colour saturation. I gave my M51 a 20% increase in saturation in DSS. I find this amount works well with most things I've tried.

[Quatermass]

Very nice shot be nice to see some colour in there as well later on but more clear nights are coming our way so plenty of time, he said fingers crossed.

[coxy322]

I was being hasty in getting that image uploaded - I was quite chuffed with the data when I got home last night so I could not resist a quick process.

I have stacked the RAWs this time, brought out more colour in processing in DSS before adjusting further in GIMP2. A much better image.

24x 40 second @ ISO1600

1x 60 second @ ISO1600

2x 75 second @ ISO1600

No Darks

No Flats

No Bias

Stacked in Deep Sky Stacker

Processed in GIMP2 (windows)

Skywatcher 200P

Canon EOS 1100D

No guiding

[rfdesigner]

Ah, yes better image...

I found M51 benefits from a gentle unsharp mask to reveal the core. Have you tried this?

Derek

[coxy322]

Hi, i recently bought a dobsonian 10" which i know is not great for imaging dso's.

I am an amateur and would love to hear some tips from you on finding m51 and how you got such a beautiful image!

Hi,

M51 is easy to find as it is relatively close to the first star in the handle of the Big Dipper / Ursa Major. Install Stellarium if you have a Windows PC or search it in google. I use a Telrad for quickly and efficiently finding objects.

I think the hard thing with Dobs and AP is the tracking for long exposures. Am sure if you search the threads you'll find some way of making this happen but really you should get yourself the correct mount if you want to make it easier on yourself - and give yourself lots more of those dim smudges to photograph.

Thanks for the comment on the pic - hope you like the improved version better?

Ash

[coxy322]

Ah, yes better image...

I found M51 benefits from a gentle unsharp mask to reveal the core. Have you tried this?

Derek

Hi Derek

I gave that a try since you pointed it out, but it has not improved it as far as I can tell. Other areas seem to worsen at the expense.

What program do you use for processing?

Ash

[Anweniel]

Very nice especially with the added colour

[rfdesigner]

What program do you use for processing?

Ash

I use IRIS by Christian Buil, freeware, excellent package.

Derek

[badgerchap]

Well I think that that's an excellent M51 (it's my favourite, so I get to be judgemental ) especially seeing as it's unguided and only a second attempt. Good bolly job!

[coxy322]

So with a fast(ish) scope like the 200p, and bearing in mind polar alignment is not perfect on the standard EQ5, what is the ideal exposure time Vs number of images to stack in order to achieve the best results? Is one at the expense of other?

Also, do many imagers out there really deal with Flats, Bias and Darks - do these really affect the image to such an extent that it makes the trouble worth it? Ie: You could spend more time acquiring lower exposure subs for more stacking?

Am totally new to this by the way, not really had success with grabbing flats, bias and darks to improve my images....

Ash

[Quatermass]

Image time with eq5 and 200p is 80 secs iso 1600 80 of those with 60 darks flats and bias gets good results and darks flats and bias make a big diff.

Sent from my GT-S5670 using Tapatalk 2

[Gina]

Flats can be done in daylight next day or even before it gets dark on the night of imaging. Darks can be done afterwards, in the obsy with the roof closed, if you have one or in a cool shed. You want about the same temperature as for your lights but otherwise the scope+camera can be at any angle etc. Just remember to put the cap on the scope and either have it in the dark or make sure no stray light can get in. Light gets in in all sorts of places in daylight eg. through the viewfinder on a DSLR unless that's capped too.