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Observatory planning...


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Obs planning challenges and thoughts...

I have reached a frustrating point around locating my obs, I can see most of the sky if I move my mount about the garden. I have very tall trees all around; most I cannot cut down or trim as they are in neighbours’ gardens. This limits where I can put the obs. Wherever it goes I will lose large tracts of the sky.

I need help figuring out which part of the sky it will be OK to loose. The best location I have found (and that includes aesthetically aligning with HWMBO :icon_scratch:) gives me a view of the sky down to about 35 degrees from SE round to West and to just shy of North. I wont be able to see Polaris but I believe drift alignment will get me there.

Does that seem like a worthwhile location?

I have thought about building an obs in the loft, not on the roof top but integrated into the roof profile. That would give me almost all round views down to about 20 degrees. The big issue with this is the thermal problems of the large dark roof area and the need to make sure the loft space was the as close to the external temperature as possible to prevent more thermal problems during an imaging session. The other challenge would be installing a stable vibration free pier. :clouds2:

Any thoughts welcome.

Tony.

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You can put the scope as high up inside your obsy as the roof will allow, that can buy you extra FOV. If the obsy is over 2m from any boundry and the eves are no more than 2.5m high then you are allowed a 4m ridge line without having to have planning permission.

I wouldn't worry about polaris, just make sure you're not loseing too much of the sky between the zenith and the pole.. check a star map to make sure you can get all the important circumpolar objects.

Drift aligning is what you need for a permanent position, you won't need a polar scope at all.

Derek

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Thanks Derek, I will consider going higher as it will be 2M from any boundary. I was concerned about the circumpolar area as there are so many interesting DSOs in that region and it is often the the clearest with regards to LP and mist. Star map checking under way.

BTW what is a "Windowed Newt"?

Tony.

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Tony,

Like many things in life building and positioning an observatory is a compromise.

The good news is, whatever you decide will dramatically improve your observering experience.

I'm on the move regularly and only have rented homes...no deep foundations or great big concrete slabs - its' waht you can get....

The TSO (Tin Shed Observatory) based on a 8' x 6' Argos shed has been great for me!

I now have the NEQ6pro and the C11/ spectroscope all set up ready to go - as soon as the clouds move on.......

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BTW what is a "Windowed Newt"?

Tony.

A newtonian with no spider, an optical window replaces it which gives some benefit, clearly no diffraction spikes, and I find tube currents tend to be quelled, the primary mirror hasn't had to be recoated in 12 years now.

Not a cheap option and today I wouldn't know where to go to get one, I was very lucky as mine was ground by David Sinden.

Derek

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Tony,

Like many things in life building and positioning an observatory is a compromise.

The good news is, whatever you decide will dramatically improve your observering experience.

I'm on the move regularly and only have rented homes...no deep foundations or great big concrete slabs - its' waht you can get....

The TSO (Tin Shed Observatory) based on a 8' x 6' Argos shed has been great for me!

I now have the NEQ6pro and the C11/ spectroscope all set up ready to go - as soon as the clouds move on.......

Hi Merlin, that's the way I am thinking after witnessing your efforts and those of other tenacious astronomers in various threads. I can always find a reason for not doing an obs but I think it will broaden my interest by allowing me to get some imaging experience. I am really interested in capturing some really deep stuff (Quasars and Blazars) for the challenge along with some aesthetically pleasing images. Spectroscope? sounds interesting, can you calculate red-shift/distance using that?

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Yes, In another thread I mentioned Maurice Gavin who, with a Star Analyser grating determined the red shift of 3C273!

Starting out the loooong journey into spectroscopy with a Star Analyser grating is a smart way of doing it. You get the chance to collect spectra of all sorts of stars and "learn the trade" of processing the spectra into more manageable profiles which can then be compared with other amateurs ( and professionals!) data.

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Taking on board Derek's elevated (rfdesigner) proposal I cleared the candidate area. The sky view when standing on a step ladder (5' above ground level) was much improved :headbang:, with eye-level at about 11+' I could see large areas of the sky.

Still considering different build approaches; the RORO design below will mean the mount will be over 2.5 metres above ground-level. That should present an interesting challenge when constructing the pier :).

Tony.

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You can put the scope as high up inside your obsy as the roof will allow, that can buy you extra FOV. If the obsy is over 2m from any boundry and the eves are no more than 2.5m high then you are allowed a 4m ridge line without having to have planning permission.

This gives the crux of permitted development but there are other factors to consider as well, such as whether you are in any designated land i.e. green belt, conversation area etc etc or any local bylaws or indeed any restrictions (planning conditions) on your current property. Im not trying to put your off or put obstacles in your way but I would strongly recommend looking at the planning portal website and if in doubt speak to a local planner.

Good luck with your design, its shaping up nicely. I cant wait to start looking at mine.....

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Thanks for hi-lighing that Digz

yes these are all contraints that everyone in England and Wales should concider, I'm not sure about north of the border.

The planning portal is a very good place to start, whilst some planning departments are more approachable than others.

Re 2.5m eves and 4m ridge, I would plan to 2.4m and 3.9m to give some margin against a nit picking planner.

Glad the see the OP might have a solution with a raised position:

If you are going to use a raised mount..

DO MAKE SURE THE PIER IS STIFF ENOUGH

a concrete pillar probably isn't going to be enough. I'm planning a 10.75" diameter steel pier for this sort of height and am pondering going up to 12.75".

Derek

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What about to place it on flat garage roof ?

Edit:

I think I have seen it somewhere here on forum guy extended wall up by about 0.5m and build dome over it look soooo good.

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What about to place it on flat garage roof ?

Check your local planning laws and speak to a planner. Its very difficult to say as each situation is unique, then there is the added complication of different planning laws in each country.....

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Thanks for all the input, I checked local planning and it appears there are no stoppers.

I have stayed below the 4 metre ridge height because the aesthetics (too tall) of the roof fall apart. If I make the base larger (3.5 x 3.5) then I could go higher but it all starts to get a bit expensive.

I'm sure I saw an obs build on here that used an extending pier. That could be the way to go; allowing me to keep to a lower profile. It would need to be well engineered to ensure alignment was repeatable.

Tony.

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As a professional engineer (electronics) I would strongly advise against an extendable pier. It just allows more things to go wrong, astro imaging is hard enough without the pier having 10 or 20 arc seconds of wiggle in it.

Bottom line: KISS

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/KISS_principle

Derek

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