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Solar imaging help please


Leebert

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I am considering a Ha scope and have a question for all you Ha solar scope owners as they are not cheap and want to get it right first time.

I currently use a DSLR for DSO and a SPC900 for planetary imaging.

What's the best way to take solar Ha images - Webcam or DSLR and what is a reasonable scope to take them through please as I have heard that the PST cannot be used with a DSLR?

Many thanks,

Lee

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The best choice for solar imaging is monochromatic camera with sensor efficent in h-alpha. As for now good and quite unexpensive are cameras with Sony ICX618 sensor and ICX445. First has a little better sensivity and bigger pixel (you can use slower F-ratio efficently) but has small resolution. I think ICX445 is optimal choice for solar imaging, because it has excellent resolution and very good sensivity.

You can find cameras with both sensors in similar price. Look for Basler ACA series (ICX618 and ICX445), Point Grey Research Chameleon (ICX445) or Imaging Source DMK21 (ICX618).

You will get good results with every solar scope even PST or Lunt LS35 but the bigger scope the better results :)

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You can use a DSLR with the right eyepiece. A lot of folk use the Hyperion Mkiii 8-24 zoom, you need the t adapter as well for the eyepiece. Or slightly cheaper the Skywatcher 8-24 zoom which has a t adapter built in.

Others use the Image Source cameras; DMK21,DMK31 & DMK41 which increase in price as well as having differing capture area (full solar image needs the DMK42).

Just have a look at the regular posters in the solar imaging section for their equipment.

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Thanks for the replies. Plenty of options there although I may have re think my budget. it currently favours the PST end of the range. As luck would have it, I have an adjustable eyepiece with a built in T thread from a bird spotting scope that I could try with a DSLR as a start and go from there.

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Or the lunt35 scope, seems to get good reviews. You need to do registacking to get the best results and a colour camera is not going to give you anything useful in the green and blue channels. A cheap focal reducer and barlows allow you to change the scale. Microsoft ICE can stick images together well if there is enough features, otherwise manual alignment works fine.

Cheers

PeterW

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