Canon 40D

[CallumMacInnes]

I recently got myself a Canon 40D and really need to set it up to do some astrophotography. Not through a telescope, just trails of stars and the ISS.

Does anyone have any idea how I should set up my camera so I can get some good shots? = )

All help is appreciated!

[JB80]

Hi Callum,

If you already have a remote shutter cable and a tripod then you are half way there, they certainly make life easier.

The best way I have found for startrails is to set your camera to 'contiuous shooting mode' so when you hold down the shutter it takes rapid fire pictures and then I would set the camera 'Manual mode' not full auto(this is represented by the M on your dial up top). Then go through your options and set your exposure length to 30" or 30 seconds(it doesn't need to be that long but 15 to 30 is useful).

Next you will need to set your ISO level, a good starting point is 800, you may need to change it though so experiment before you start, if you think the picture is too bright then drop the iso to 400 or 200 and you can vary the exposure length as well to find a good balance. Once you are happy with it then you can start.

Point the camera on the tripod where you want and using the remote shutter push the slider into the lock position so it keeps taking shots without having to press the button each time and just let the camera do it's work for an hour or two. When you think you've done enough put the lens cap back on your lens being careful not to change the focus or any other settings and take another 20 to 50 shots whith the lens cap on, these will be your dark frames.

Once you have finished download the free software called startrails.de below.

www.Startrails.de-Home

Then open up the application and load up all your pictures including dark frames, hit create and it will combine all the pics to make the startrails and your done.

The ISS is using similar settings, again use M mode, start off with iso 800 and depending on what lens you are using maybe a 10 or 15 second exposure. Again try different settings first and see which one suits your conditions best. Then the hard part is making sure get get the ISS in frame.

I hope that helps a little bit, others probably have different methods or can explain it better.

[CallumMacInnes]

Hi Callum,

If you already have a remote shutter cable and a tripod then you are half way there, they certainly make life easier.

The best way I have found for startrails is to set your camera to 'contiuous shooting mode' so when you hold down the shutter it takes rapid fire pictures and then I would set the camera 'Manual mode' not full auto(this is represented by the M on your dial up top). Then go through your options and set your exposure length to 30" or 30 seconds(it doesn't need to be that long but 15 to 30 is useful).

Next you will need to set your ISO level, a good starting point is 800, you may need to change it though so experiment before you start, if you think the picture is too bright then drop the iso to 400 or 200 and you can vary the exposure length as well to find a good balance. Once you are happy with it then you can start.

Point the camera on the tripod where you want and using the remote shutter push the slider into the lock position so it keeps taking shots without having to press the button each time and just let the camera do it's work for an hour or two. When you think you've done enough put the lens cap back on your lens being careful not to change the focus or any other settings and take another 20 to 50 shots whith the lens cap on, these will be your dark frames.

Once you have finished download the free software called startrails.de below.

www.Startrails.de-Home

Then open up the application and load up all your pictures including dark frames, hit create and it will combine all the pics to make the startrails and your done.

The ISS is using similar settings, again use M mode, start off with iso 800 and depending on what lens you are using maybe a 10 or 15 second exposure. Again try different settings first and see which one suits your conditions best. Then the hard part is making sure get get the ISS in frame.

I hope that helps a little bit, others probably have different methods or can explain it better.

Thanks a lot! That really does help, I had no idea what I needed to set it at but now I do. I tried out your method and got some great shots of Jupiter and a few star trails. When I upload them I will post them and if you want you can let me know if I am on the right track = )

Thanks again!

[Coco]

I just googled ''shutter speed for star trails'' and got loads of links..

here's just one and it happens to be a 40D

Shutterspeed for Star trails - Photo.net Canon EOS Forum

[libraryman]

Intersting thread, if i can ask a related question;

When shooting star trails, would the use of a light pollution filter i.e the Astromik clip filter be of good value, and if so how would it effect the exposure times?

Ray

[Vic&Al]

Another tool I have found useful is the 'liveview' option for focusing on stars. Set your focus to 'manual' and find a nice bright star in the viewfinder, when you are happy with the camera positioning switch to liveview and you can use the zoom buttons to zoom into the live star and tweak the focus. (I have the 50d and am pretty sure its the same)

Hope this helps

Clear skys!

[JB80]

Intersting thread, if i can ask a related question;

When shooting star trails, would the use of a light pollution filter i.e the Astromik clip filter be of good value, and if so how would it effect the exposure times?

Ray

Yes it would be of great value. Check these couple of threads of mine out to see the comparison. Both used the same exposure times but you can see the difference.

Without filter

http://stargazerslounge.com/imaging-image-processing-help-techniques/141340-star-trails-only-up-round.html

With cls filter

http://stargazerslounge.com/imaging-widefield-special-events-comets/157923-startrails-belgium.html