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question about fuses


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on the cord that goes from the battery to the mount, the wires were getting loose and eventually the cord stopped working. so i opened it up, (the cigerete lighter type plug) one of the wires had come off inside, so cut both wires to take away the worn pieces and leave it neater and strong again, and soldered them back,

but still nothing, checked th fuse and it had blown, so went today and got a fuse, but here is the problem, the markings on the old fuse are F5AL250V, and the new fuse 5A, but when i compare them the metal strip inside the new fuse is much thicker than the old one so i havnt put it in, any of you guys know what the difference is, what do the markings F and L stand for on the old fuse?

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ive just looked on the maplins web site, and the F seems to stand for quickblow, my nearest maplins is two hours away, any ideas of what kind of store i may get one of these in,

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If the numbers match (i.e. same voltage and current) then it could be down to a different material being used for the filament requiring a different thickness.

Thing is if I (or my equipment :)) blow a fuse I tend to think there must be something underlying causing it to blow and so have a look for the cause before replacing it.

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ive just looked on the maplins web site, and the F seems to stand for quickblow, my nearest maplins is two hours away, any ideas of what kind of store i may get one of these in,

You could try to find a local TV repair shop. There's an outside chance they might carry some.

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If you've got some fuse wire (you know, the type we used to use in domestic mains fuse boards) then, using your blown fuse, drill a hole in each end, pass some 5A fusewire through and solder the ends.

Steve

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Actually if it's 230-250v, and has the same dimensions as a standard household mains fuse, I don't suppose there's a reason why you couldn't switch it for one of those - just that you couldn't see when it has blown next time.

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If the numbers match (i.e. same voltage and current) then it could be down to a different material being used for the filament requiring a different thickness.

Thing is if I (or my equipment :)) blow a fuse I tend to think there must be something underlying causing it to blow and so have a look for the cause before replacing it.

i think what made it blow was when the wire eventually came apart inside it must have touched the other one and blew it, i would have been fiddling when it blew to see if it was the wires, i know nothing about electrics, just guessing, correct me if im wrong, but i have another cable and pluged that in to check the mount is working and every thing is fine

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Fuses come in many internal configurations depending on manufacturer, use, fusing factor and others. Its quite common to see a radical visual difference in two fuses that have the same rating. I'm sure it will fine what you have.

Regards

Barry

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Just like to advise that a domestic style fuse has a totally different blowing / fusing characteristic than a glass quick blow fuse ( including fuse wire ) and should be avoided for this type of application at all costs . The domestic type ,bs88 and so on can let many times its current rating flow prior to activation and is really designed for fault conditions only and not purely overload , which is what is required by your application. The consequences are a real fire hazard . Hope this helps , Rob.

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