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M27 Megrez 72 DSLR...


Keiran

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Hi all,

This is my first attempt at this subject this year. I spent alot of time waiting for the sun to drop, so i took it easy setting up. Eventaully the sun dipped but the moon still very much present.

I managed to get about 90 mins of subs, combination of 3 min, 5 mins and 10 mins guided. As some of you may know i have had some problems with getting my synguider working, but last night it all came together, and i had my first sucessful guided 10 min sub.

I am using a DSLR for imaging, and im still experimenting with it. I used ISO 400, but im not particularly impressed with the resolution of the image, so next time i will try a lower ISO and see what i get.

Anyway, here it is...

bulldog_keiran-albums-my-best-picture11839-m27-11-05-2011-iso-400-90-mins-data-consisting-3min-5min-10-min-guided-subs-10-darks-match-3min-subs-megrez-72-ffii-guided-st80-synguider.jpg

Thanks for looking and any comments welcome.

Keiran

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10 minutes... whey hey!

That a great effort, and framed dead on.. whats the detail like in a cropped closer view..you have loads of pixels to play out.. :)

.

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Cheers guy I will post a cropped version as soon as i get on to my pc.

Peter, Im using thw WO FFII, but it is slightly croped. but stars are very sharp all to the edge. Very impressed with it.

Nadeem, thats for that... I was playing with it for ages, but couldnt get the backround black without messing with the M27 itself

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  • 3 months later...

The Various WO Field Flatteners (FF's) connect to the scope via a 2" Push Fit nosepiece and have a T-thread at the back to take a T-ring for the camera body.. you dont need any additional extension pieses in the optical train to achieve focus when using the FF's the also reduce the FL and make the scopes "faster"...

If you dont use a FF then you may need to add an extension piece onto the focusser drawtube to achieve focus... Wiith a larger sensor like an APS-C sensored DSLR you will have distorted stars in the corners of the image due to the curved focal plane produced by the scope...

Peter...

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I would try it and see... there are tricks that you can use like using the lens correction tools in Photoshop to improve the star shapes... if it clears up in the next few days

I'll pop one of the DSLR's onto the Megrez without the flattener and see how much extension is needed... IIRC I used to use a 50mm long SCT-2" adaptor and a 2" Pushfit T adaptor before I had the flattener - those bits are in one of my many Adaptors boxes.. I'll go ad dig them out and take a pic...

GbzdQiI6

I actually used (because they were the bits I had and I have a few different scopes) a 2" PF-SCT adaptor fitted into a 65mm long SCT-2" PF adaptor ( You could just use a 2" PF extension) and then a 2" PF-T adaptor and T-Ring...

The longer your in this hobby the more adaptors you seem to collect especially if your trying to connect anything to anything ...

Apologies to Kiernan for drifting off and answering a question in the thread...

Peter...

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The FF goes straight into the focuser drawtube to the scope...

A standard T ring will give a 55.0mm spacing independent of the "register" of the cameras lens mount ...

So that 52.5mm value is "interesting"...might be something to look at...

WO reckon it should be 56mm for the FFIII

http://www.williamoptics.com/accessories/images/FW0.8X_T-RING_950425.pdf

And the spec for the FFII also says 56mm

If you don't use a reducer you need to compensate for the reduction in the optical path caused by removing the "diagonal"... you ideally always want to "image" straight through rather than through a diagonal...

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Here it is.... I dont really like it, but i think it may have something to do with the ISO reducing the Res... any thoughts?

The resolution looks about right. I use a 1000D and when I had it on the 70mm it had about the same res. Lowering the ISO will help reduce noise but will not effect the resolution, to get better resolution you will need a bigger scope (I think)

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