Fedele

No, it may seem strange to you but I don't like long 4 "and I find the DL uncomfortable. Therefore I want to sell the DL I have the TSA120, a small TS60 / 360 to make H alpha full disk with the chromosphere. I therefore have to fill the space between with a refractor / small mak grab and go of quality. I have been tempted to replace the TS 60/360 with an FS60CB but I don't know if it's worth it.

Thank you. I see you have a mak 127 and a C5 and FS60. How are the differences in the views of the planets compared to each of these three. Thank you

can i use 2" accessories? for example a Baader T2 32 prism with a 2" nose?

FC 76DCU can uses the Maxbright II bino? go in focus? i have ready for it, a FTF2025 also to have a term of comparison, do you have an image of a 76 flanked by a DL? for my needs, for example, the DL is not good, it is already bulky

I have recently started doing planetary imaging and I am completely self-taught .... I go to intuition a bit. I don't have a rule

Hi.... i need a really grab and go refractor in the class of 80/90 mm. This must guarantee me excellent views of both the large fields and the planets. I have an ED 60/360 dedicated to SOLAR IMAGING and observing in H-alpha, which does its job well. What i need will be a really grab&go telescope instead of the TSA120 when I don't want to take it out, or for the travels. It must range from large fields to planetary observation. I'm thinking of some 80ED or the FC76DCU or some C5 (which also allows me to imaging) and stuff of this type. I'm trying to read the many posts about the FC76DCU, but I'd like a summary of your advice here if possible. is it practically really grab & go? I don't care so much the fact that you can divide it and transpose it (indeed this "screw and unscrew" honestly I see it as a weak and dangerous point), as its size and manageability. Can you summarize its behavior compared to an excellent 80ED? thank you

Dolomiti Lucane, Castelmezzano (Italy)

Last night, I notice that the sky had opened unexpectedly. The Mewlon180c was already in "thermal pre-alert", the TSA120 was closed in the house. I bring out the latter unassuming, as I knew it would take some time to acclimate. In reality, unlike the reflectors, the image provided by the refractor, while it acclimates, is usefull at low focal ratios. I make a first observation with the Baby-Mu that as always excites me a lot on the Moon. A beautiful contrasted image full of details. Then it's the turn of the TSA120. The image is splendid in the Maxbright II. For the first time, at this moon, i see everything in real 3D, with the mountains around Imbrium that seem to soar upwards. it was like seeing them in a helicopter from above the peaks. Usually at this stage everything is quite flattened, at a low focal ratio. Here the images with TSA120 20.01.2022, Matera Takahashi TSA120, ASI178mm, @ f 7.5 and with PowerMate 2,5 x AsiStudio, AstroSurface All my images are always copyed jpeg from my FB page

Firl light for imaging:

Days ago I asked for your valuable opinions on the choice between TSA120 and TOA130. While being able to afford both, I evaluated that for visual purposes and for my logistic situation, for my tastes, my multipurpose setup, the best choice I could make was a TSA120: - a 5 "in a 4" body - a splendid and light synthesis of both my current DL and a possible TOA130. As soon as I can I write my impressions on the comparison with FC100DL and Mewlon180c.

hi friends and masters Being able to afford both telescopes, I made my choice, thought through in detail according to my needs and requirements. it was not an easy choice Unboxing tomorrow.

15.01.2021, Matera (Ita) Takahashi FC100DL, Daystar Cromosfera, ASI178mm. TS 0,5x reducer AstiStudio. AstroSurface, PS wgwgregregreg.tif

Baby- Mu

Last First Quarter of my DL 11.01.2022, Takahashi FC100DL, ASI178mm, AsiStudio, AstroSurface The sky was covered all day, but suddenly it opened for a couple of hours to give me the last viewing window on the Moon, both for the Takahashi FC100DL and probably also the Mewlon 180c, from which I part with another setup (always Takahashi of course). Tomorrow i will choice between TSA120 + Mewlon 210 (for now 180c remain) + 150 Individual or a Unic (just visual alway) telescope: TOA130 and FS60Cb for SUN These are really difficult hours around this choice.

i have a Norpheus 12,5 and i don t like it: - parallax -yellow vignetting of the field - not uniform black of the field - orribile construction - ..... etc Sorry,. Thi is the first and the lst china thing i have buyed

1 anno di strumenti e di Giove...il mio primo Giove. Skywatcher 120ED, Skywatcher Mak127, Intes Micro M500, Takahashi FC100DL, Takahashi Mewlon 180c immagini compresse a bassa risoluzione

I think in a doublet that's normal ... but I could be wrong

Yes the setup is beautiful and lighter

i wil buy an FS60CB/FC76DCU for this i have buyed the A20-302 that work with these but not with my FC100

Takahashi FC100DL & SI-FTF2025BCR BACK FOCUS preliminary tests - combinations that work Hoping to do useful thing for those looking for this information: 1) Visual @ direct Focus Fok + GSO estention 50 mm + Taka estentions + Taka 2"/1 1/4" reducer + Taka Ortho 32 mm o TV Ploss 25 mm 2) Visual with Diagonal Baader T2 32 Fok + Taka Estention + T2 32 + Baader ultrashort ClickLock 2"/1 1/4" or normal Click Lock ok from circa 70 m to infinite with starting from Takahashi Abbe 32mm 3) ASI178 camera @ Direct Focus Fok + GSO estention 50 mm + Taka estentions + Taka 2"/1 1/4"reducer (or Baader ultrashort ClickLock 2"/1 1/4") or Fok + GSO 80 mm estention +(or Baader ultrashort ClickLock 2"/1 1/4") 4) Baader Maxbright II Fok + Baader T2 32 with 2" noise + Baader Maxbright II finally works stably from the Takahashi Abbe Ortho 32 mm to the Takahashi TOE 4 mm 5) Baader Cool Ceramic 2" No Sun, so not tested yet. Anyway i suppose that will work 6) Baader Cool Ceramic 2" + + Bino Baader Maxbright II No Sun, so not tested yet. 7) Daystar Chromosphere with camera or visual (with and Without Bino) Not tested Yet

In order to preserve from time and use the precious and historical black focuser of the FC100DL, which will now be properly preserved, I mounted a Starlight Instruments 2 "FTF 2025 focuser, with the dedicated and unobtainable flange (found only available in France) A20 -304 for Takahashi FS78 / FC100. I prefer the look with the classic focuser, but the FTF is also a pretty sight honestly.

mirrors are not annoptions. just tsa vs toa.

hi In your opinion, for visual purposes only, is it worth buying a TOA130 instead of a TSA120? the telescope will be mounted every time. in other words, for those who have both, the difference between the two visually on planets and dso is definitely in favor of 130? thank you

This is what the Sun looks like once the H-Alfa Daystar Chromosphere filter is installed. From the moment of ignition to full use in the H-Alpha band, time passes. Here's how the image shot in these 10 minutes turns and transforms (depending on the setup). In this case the filter is combined with a beautiful Takahashi FC100DL (10 cm f9). The spots that are seen in the foreground are dust and spots in the optical train, which subsequently (in the processing phase) are virtually removed with the FLAT technique. initially it is like observing the Sun in White Light. as the filter goes "in temperature", the characteristic conformations and appearance of the H alpha band appear https://youtu.be/mdk5bnEB9Ug

31.12.2021, Venere con Mewlon 180c e FC100DL