pie_in_the_sky

Thanks for the info. Unfortunately with the redcat Jupiter is a large dot, with the moons as smaller dots. Quite interesting but doesn't have the impact of a nebular at this focal length. Might give Orion one last blast of the season before taking a look at those other recommendations. Cheers. Out of interest, how do you decide how long to wait post-sunset to start observing? Do you just eye-ball it or is there a rule / process that you follow? Makes sense to get set up at dusk to maximise time.

So I have a cloud free night tomorrow - I can’t believe it’s the first one since Jan… Anyway, by now have I missed Orion? Would it be better to wait until next year? I’m conscious that it will be quite low now and more exposed to light pollution (I’ve got street lamps nearby). Probably for the best - getting slightly obsessed with Orion. I know we’re not quite in milky way season so what else is good this time of year? Pleiades I think are also too low right now. I could maybe stretch to get a 5 x barlow extender so that Bode / Cigar galaxy are an option…this wouldn’t be an option for tomorrow though. EDIT seems Barlows are not great / do not work with RedCat 51s - https://www.cloudynights.com/topic/813443-william-optics-redcat-51-with-barlow-2-or-4-x/#:~:text=To bring the Redcat 51,it to come to focus. What other targets do you go for in Spring / Summer? I’m using a modded Canon 600D and a Redcat51 (no guiding) for context and am based in East Anglia. Cheers

So, I have used this intervalometer with a separate camera and everything worked as it should but I had never used the wireless feature at the distance I had this time around. This was ~15m away. All previously successful shoots, the distance has been ~2m at most. My thoughts now are that the issue is one or a combo of these: -low battery in either unit of the intervalometer -interference (would explain why the camera was triggered to take 1000 pics) -loss of connection between the intervalometer base unit and receiver causing off behaviour with the camera -lack of interval causing some issue I just remembered that I had a cheap, old, wire-only intervalometer. I've just run a test with an interval of 5 seconds, 100 pics @ 1 minute each. I ended up with 99 pics on target, 1 at 59 and 1 at 53. Obviously a much better error rate. So it's looking good, great info - thanks all! Now just hoping for some cloud free nights to try again properly!

What's a mirror lockup set ? Probably answers your question... The camera was factory reset when I got it (had to re-enter date & time) so I assume any bracketing that may have been set up previously would have also been reset. Will check this though - even with bracketing though we should only be looking at double or triple the pictures though right? It's weird that there are >1000. I've just run another test, 152 photos @ 1min exposures. There are only 78 captured, oddly one of them is in portrait mode...I wonder if the camera needs a short 1 or 2 second interval set. This is what I don't understand. I initially thought I'd incorrectly set the intervalometer to just take 1 second photos, but then I saw the seemingly random spread of exposures. Also the intervalometer only goes up to 200 shots, i.e. I can't even set it to take 1000 pics. Also, see above I just ran a test. All correct exposures but only half the expected amount. Camera is set to Bulb, 800 iso. Intervalometer was set to take 100 pics, no interval, no delay, 1 minute exposures. The intervalometer is this - https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B078GDBK5D?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details Yep - The camera prompted to enter date and time when it arrived. I assume this means it was factory reset?? It's a good call though, I'll do that and try again. Thanks for the responses everyone!

Hi all, I've just bought a modded dslr (second hand 600d). I tested it last night and reviewing the pics today, it seems something went wrong. I set it running with an intervalometer to take 100 pics @ 1 min exposures. It too 1000+ over a range of exposures, mostly ~900 @ 1s with only about 15 at the target. What have I done wrong? Have you had anything like this happen before?

Hi all, As the slightly verbose title suggests - a month or two ago I would perform two star alignment using Dubhe (near Polaris) and Rigel (near Orion neb). Now though, when I pick Dubhe I can't then select Rigel (or vice versa). I'm assuming there is some ruleset in the app that determines what stars can be used, for example I notice you can't pick two stars in the same constellation. Does anyone know what the logic is used by the app to determine which stars are available for 2+ star alignment and/or why I was able to choose the stars mentioned and now can't? Ta

Here's my humble effort. Didn't have a lot of time but was keen to have a go on data from a 'proper' camera. Background was a challenge, I think it's strayed into being over-processed / unnatural look though. Particularly when trying to neutralise the red a bit outside the nebula. The camera and raw data is amazing though - you don't need a separate set of under exposed captures.

Oh I like that. I've just had my second run at processing m42 to get the core under control (https://stargazerslounge.com/topic/418428-m42-orions-nebula-first-attempt-at-multiple-exposures-stacking-please-critique/). I had to go back and take low exposure subs and re-do processing. Did you take multiple exposures / how did you handle the core processing? I think I've got clear skies tonight, but next cloudy one I'm definitely having a look at that tif! Cheers

Hope you don't mind me resurrecting this post but I took the feedback and a) captured another set of lower exposure photos of the core; b) completely reprocessed to incorporate the overall feedback and also blend in the core. I'll drop the original in first so a before and after is easier. I think this is the best I can do with current gear, as always though feedback more than welcome. I know there is a colour cast on the background of the new image. Background in general is a bit funky, I focused solely on the nebula plus the background artefacts are due to manually aligning the original image with the new, differently framed low exposure version and then blending them together. Cheers original new version, reprocessed + core

Cheers the recommendations all!

Yep, looks like Juan's website isn't live. I'm not too fussed about day time photography, happy to lose AF.

Hi All, I have an opportunity to buy a cheap Canon 600D (<£100). I was toying with the idea of getting it to replace my currect 700D with the intention to then mod the 600D for astrophotography. Couple of questions, who would you recommend to do the mod here in the UK? Alternatively, how difficult is it to do yourself? Somewhat related to this last question, what are the typical mods for astrophotography, specifically for DSO? I know the baseline mod is to remove the stock IR filter. Does this tend to be replaced with anything? Cheers

Thanks Mandy / Elp. I think I'll take a look at the lens collar for now and look at the Benro a bit further down the line (I did find it £100 cheaper on a reseller site vs. direct).

Thanks for the info - very helpful and will keep it in mind when I come to upgrade.

This seems like a sensible place for this question...let me know if not. I bought a dovetail bar so I can directly mount a DSLR to my SkyWatcher Star Adventurer GTi. As you'd expect, the camera ends up at all sorts of angles. What do you use to level / compose / orient the camera when mounting direct? I've see some geared options that look like they would do the trick but spending as much (or much more) than my actual mount on something like this seems OTT. I've read mixed reviews of ball-head mounts. They would probably work for what I need but interested in what others use. Are there any other options out there? Cheers