Astrokev

I must try that if I can't download the free version

That said, my SketchUp days may be at an end. I've just had to install a new HDD in my main PC and have therefore lost my SketchUp install file (my data is fully backed up so all is OK on that score. I recall reading on an SGL thread that the free version is no longer available. I haven't checked yet, but does anyone know if this is right?

I'm always amazed and amused (and somewhat envious) by the amount of useful stuff you always seem to "just happen" to have lurking in your sheds and workshops

I rotate components well away from the final location, then move into place.

Looking great James. Good to hear it's now weathertight - makes a huge difference.

Great site you have there! Looking forward to following your project. SketchUp's great once you get used to the main tools and quirks

A while since I've posted on my build thread. After a bit of a break I'm now starting on the final push to get electrics installed, and to finish some exterior landscaping to tidy up the destroyed bit of garden on the site. For the electrics, I won't repeat my planning in full here - I've posted this in the thread "Electrical layout...." I started a while back, but once the planning is finished I'll post the installation itself in this thread. Looking forward to not having to trail the extension cable out every time I use the observatory (which, to be honest, has been all too little due to seemingly constant cloud cover since it was finished!).

Yes I wondered about that. I've used carpet tiles in the warm room, but I now find myself using an office chair in the scope room! It does leave some marks; time will tell if they spring back. Once I'm fully set-up I'll probably move the office chair back into the warm room and, if I decide I need a chair at all in the scope room (always was a lazy observer), I'll look for something with bigger footprints to reduce the risk of damage to the flooring.

Looks fabulous. Are those conduits sticking out of the floor? You’ll have to be really careful you don’t trip on those if they are.

Looks great

Agree with everything James and Alex said! My roof has 3 wheels per side, the middle ones to remove any risk of the roof beams sagging in the middle. 2 per side would have dealt with the weight no problem. Mine are V groove wheels and track. Pretty much silent when rolling the roof off, so would strongly recommend these - I used Brundle like most folks. I highly recommend EPDM for the roof. Good luck with your deliberations and build. Look forward to following it ? EDIT - agree with Alex. Think carefully about how to prevent water getting in to the scope room through the gaps by the rails. Design this out before you start to build!

Thanks James. One of the reasons for me wanting to keep it simple is that I don’t really understand electrics, as I think I’ve said in other threads. You’ve given some good options above so thanks ?

Great, thanks James.....and Alex! Not sure I need the luxury of wireless control (or maybe I do but just don’t realise it ?); at present I’m thinking of going for a simple on/off wall switch. Will also check out surface mounted conduits. Those flush fitting ones look great. Wish I’d thought of that before fitting the wall panels ?

Great progress James. The end’s in sight! What LED strip did you go for in the end?

Yes, it’s a bit late for recessed trunking now, but it’s good to see how LED lighting looks at this height. At the moment I’m thinking of putting the lighting nearer the top of the walls - when I eventually get round to doing this.

Looks great Alex. Very smart! still need to think about lighting for my obsy so you’re giving me lots of ideas ?

Making good progress. Look forward to the pics when you can squeeze them in!

Yes, I agree. I bought one of the cheaper Telegizmo covers and was amazed that the seams were not taped. There are very evident holes along some of stitch lines - a few of them being big enough to let narrow shafts of sunlight through, so I doubt would be water-tight. Very disappointed and would not recommend them.

So, tonight I tested the mod out in earnest and polar aligned the NEQ6 using the EQMOD polar alignment tool. Pleased to say that adjusting the altitude was really easy and I was able to change the angle with great control and precision. Once completed I retightened the three grub screws. Job done ???

Yes that's a good option. I have a solid pier, but the adapter plate on the top is adjustable. I'll see how I get on with the plate level to start with. One of the challenges of being at 52 north is the relatively small clearance between the south alt bolt and the polar scope cover. It had occurred to me that angling the adapter plate would increase this gap, making it a little easier to get your hand in to turn the alt bolt.

It would probably be a good idea for me to grease the southern bolt. I have a "modified" bolt which is supposed to be stronger than the SW original, but the thread has a very loose tolerance in the female thread of the mount. Grease would help this a little, would give slightly smoother turning, and would help resist corrosion. Not sure what metal it's made from but it certainly ain't rustproof!

Absolutely. And to add to that, why on earth did SW design the altitude adjustment the way they did. For high latitude locations the design is not really fit for purpose, hence the need for third party fixes.

Here's the cap back on the mount. I reattached with 3 small double sided foam pads. Once I'm finally happy that everything works, and I won't need to remove the cap again, I may glue it back on with rubber based adhesive. The 3 holes are fairly inconspicuous and allow easy access to the grub screws to loosen / tighten as required. I marked the hole positions direct from the mount using a simple paper template, and then stuck this to the cap with tape. They drilled out very easily using a hand drill. From memory the bit was around 4mm to accommodate the 2.5mm Allen key.

Great idea Alex. I'm sure there must be lots of users who have similar difficulties. I'll post another pic once I've reattached the cap with the hole mod, just so folks can see how it looks.

Well, today was the day. Decided to try and remove the disk using just a craft knife whilst heating it with a hairdryer. After several minutes I didn't seem to be getting very far and I was about to give up - the recess was making it very difficult to get the knife under the edge of the disk, and the heat didn't seem to be doing anything. My efforts also started to scratch the white paint around the edge of the disk. But then I managed to get the tip of the knife under and was able to gradually wiggle and twist it until the full width of the blade went under the edge. It was then a matter of working my way around whilst continuing to apply heat. After another 5-10 minutes the disk popped off, without any damage at all. The paint around the edge is slightly scratched in places but nothing to overly concern me. My PC is in the repair shop being fixed, so I'm posting this from my phone. Below is a picture of the mount after removing the disk. No idea how big this image will be since I haven't been able to adjust the size for the web! I've loosened the three Allen bolts one quarter of a turn, and the head now moves in altitude much more easily. Result! ? Next job is to drill three holes in the disk to allow future access to the bolts, and then to reattach the disk. I'll do this tomorrow. Thanks @Juicy6 for this idea ??