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Everything posted by CCD-Freak
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Flip-Top Space Saving Observatory Design Idea
CCD-Freak replied to Stargazer33's topic in DIY Observatories
Great idea !!! Hmmmmm...This gives me some ideas for a future project. If you made the walls a bit taller the roof walls could then be shorter and it would allow the roof to be tilted more than 9o degrees which would give you more view of the sky. -
Surprised myself with this quick M31
CCD-Freak replied to Dazzyt66's topic in Getting Started With Imaging
It was a "smart shed" I had about 20 years ago. It was made by a company called "Thinking Outside" which is no longer in business these days. It was very easy to remove some fasteners and then slide part of the roof off to get access to the sky. It was fairly secure since it didn't call attention to itself as it looked like a common garden shed when it was closed up. I enjoyed having a permanent setup until we moved to a place that had a poor view of the sky. I have been using my portable "SkyBox" observatory since then and will soon be building a ROR observatory at my new low Bortle 2 dark site (SQM 21.99) -
Surprised myself with this quick M31
CCD-Freak replied to Dazzyt66's topic in Getting Started With Imaging
Here is another one I did with a Zeiss Sonar 180mm F2.8 lens. It worked but i was disappointed with the amount of chromatic aberration it had. You can never tell until you test it. -
Surprised myself with this quick M31
CCD-Freak replied to Dazzyt66's topic in Getting Started With Imaging
This is a system I cobbled together some years ago with a 200mm Takumar lens and a SS-Pro camera. The focus motor makes it easy to get precise focus and it holds it once you are done. -
Surprised myself with this quick M31
CCD-Freak replied to Dazzyt66's topic in Getting Started With Imaging
What 200mm lens are you using? -
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Entry for the ugliest dew shield?
CCD-Freak replied to Robculm's topic in Getting Started With Imaging
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I am working to get the collimation dialed in before the Okie-Tex star party next month and I finally got a clear night out at my SRO dark site The conditions were not very favorable which seems to be the norm as of late. I tried an IDAS NB-1 filter with an ASI-1600MM-Pro for this 35 x 2 minute image of the Pelican Nebula IC 5070. Everything is not perfectly dialed in yet but it shows that it will be a fun combo once I get everything as I want it.
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Pier plans ? and general advice for pier newbie.
CCD-Freak replied to powerlord's topic in DIY Observatories
Just curious as to how the Gorilla glue is working now that the pier has been in service for a while. I am trying to decide if Gorilla glue or construction adhesive would be as good as thin set mortar. I plan to build my first Todmorden pier at my new dark site as soon as it cools off some. Thanks -
I am lusting for an ASI-2600MCp. A friend of mine just got both the mono and OSC versions and he is turning out really nice images. I am saving up for the purchase. I already built a new PC with a big SSD and 32GB of RAM to handle the "gianormous" image files. (^8
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Are the flowers for her or for your funeral? (^8
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You managed to catch the Soap Bubble. (^8
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Can you bin CMOS OSC cameras to produce a luminance sub?
CCD-Freak replied to tomato's topic in Discussions - Cameras
I use Astro Art 7 to capture and process my ASI-533 images. It has the option to do a 2x2 mono de-mosaic and it works very well to make mono images. It is also possible to take an image but don't do the color conversion and do a .5x pixel shift to remove the Bayer matrix grid. makes a nice mono image. -
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I use cable braid and velcro buckle ties to bundle and secure my cables. Cable braid allows each wire to move independently within the braid so it remains flexible and it also resists hanging on things. The buckle ties allow securing the cable bundle to the tripod leg and the tube or focuser to take the strain off the connectors. I prefer this method instead of putting everything up on the OTA which adds to the wind load area and it is not as easy to protect the electronic devices from dew. My 2 cents. (^8
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Once I finally got the chamber sealed and dried out I could go down below freezing without frosting the sensor or circuit board. There was a temp sensor on the "cold finger" just below the sensor and it was connected to a temperature controller to keep the TEC at the desired setting. I typically ran the DSI-II TEC at -15C. If I decide to do this mod to my ASI-178 I will do something similar.
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Funny....I have been considering doing that to my ASI-178MM. I did a cooling mod to an old Meade DSI-II camera and it worked well. I could get it down to -35C below ambient. The hardest part was getting it air tight to keep moisture at bay.
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Great image !!! Are you using a cooled ASI-178 camera?
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I had one of those sheds and I was planning to do something like your project until a Texas thunderstorm changed my plans. It was ripped off the wooden deck and blown over a 6' fence before being deposited in the front yard.
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Impressive images !!! I hope you don't mind but I ran your image through Topaz DeNoise AI and it did a nice job cleaning up the noise. I try not to push the sharpening too much. I find Topaz very useful for lunar and deep sky imaging.
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Hi Adrian I agree....you can over process with any software so I tend to go for the minimum required to get an improvement in the image. You can see the details in the original image but they are fuzzed out a bit and Topaz with it's AI algorithms did a good job of bringing it out. Topaz is so easy to use and I am still experimenting with it to determine the most effective settings. After Before