Robindonne

This maybe?

If i have to quess i would say no.  No difference.  As long as you get in focus, the reducer “needs” That fixed backfocus

35 minutes ago, John said:

Not all eyepieces reach focus at the same point by any means. Not even in the same eyepiece range in some instances.

 

 

Ah ok.  Didn’t now that.  So if one 6 mm wont work doesn’t mean all other 6 mm’s also don’t work.   Air is too thick right now to test some.  I will soon i hope.  Thx

26 minutes ago, Bruce Leeroy said:

If you have a barlow you could try removing the lens element and use the body as an extender, you can stack 2 or more together if 1 isn't enough or if your just mm away don't put the eyepiece all the way to the hilt. HTH

Yes thx.  Thx for all the info btw.   Im going to play with it a bit tonight.   Was just wondering if certain eyepieces get in focus quite quickly/short vs ones that need to be more outwards(the focustube). But i guess that also varies from scope to scope.  If i suddenly see some cloudbands moving on jupiter tonight ill let you know!🙂

1 hour ago, andrew s said:

Hum, if you use a conventional Newtonian the it will always have a diagonal!

Also close to focus angular wave front errors have less distance to generate linear errors.

A prism in a low f system will generate chromatic aberration.

I would like to see some quantitative evidence for these claims.

Certainly straining your neck or viewing in a contorted bodily position will impact your visual system.

Regards Andrew 

It was after reading something about a bought used eyepiece.   
 

im not an expert and dont believe immediately everything thats being written in reviews.  But sometimes you find a particular review reasonable and trustful i guess.  
 

it was this post:

https://www.cloudynights.com/topic/475997-tak-le-vs-sterling/

1 hour ago, andrew s said:

Hum, if you use a conventional Newtonian the it will always have a diagonal!

Also close to focus angular wave front errors have less distance to generate linear errors.

A prism in a low f system will generate chromatic aberration.

I would like to see some quantitative evidence for these claims.

Certainly straining your neck or viewing in a contorted bodily position will impact your visual system.

Regards Andrew 

It was for me an option because im often viewing from a hammock😀.   No but serious.  I’ll try to find that review and link it here.  It basically said that one eypiece suffered from a certain type of diagonal while the another eyepiece benefits from using that type of diagonal.   It was my own conclusion that skipping this diagonal would benefit every eyepiece.   
 

And the part of that hammock was kind of serious.  I often lay down in it, and it happens to be just perfect positioned to look at the planets😬

Ah ok.  So 4,5” for the mirror?   No i completely understand the benefits over the loss of detail, when using a diagonal.  It was more because some experienced(i guess) reviewer wrote about an eyepiece not showing its potential with a dielectric and does show it with a prism and vice versa.  

if its just a case of extending the tube, then i’ll try it.    I thought it could have something to do with the eyepiece itself.  Thx

After reading some reviews about diagonals and the difference in mirror quality, i read a piece that described the fall in detail/quality with even the best diagonals.
Also reviewed was the difference in eyepiece/diagonal combinations.  One eyepiece would need a prism, the other a dielectric. 
So 2 nights ago i extended the tripod to maximum length, curious to see the “extra” details on jupiter etc. without a detail-absorbing diagonal.  

Wow, i never thought to see this.  

It was an anticlimax.   Even while the focustube traveled out about 20 cm? Still couldnt reach focus.   Does anyone know if it the scope or scope/eyepiece combination what causes this?    
 

i used a skywatcher 100 ed/burgass tmb 6 mm.
 

i didnt bring any other eyepieces that night so have to check if it happens with all eyepieces.  
 

Im really interested in this diagonal-less setup.  Using an adc, waiting for perfect seeing etc. to see more detail, while a simple improvement can be made by just skipping a piece of equipment.  
 

If anyone can advice me about the needed ingredients in a scope/eyepiece combination to get this to work, ill be very thankful.  

Yes. Its the bearing. Have to dive in some old threads here and there before just asking😬.   Still learning.  

This one is TS.  But rebranded i quess.  Also sold by orion.  Or the orion rebranded.  I dont know.   
 

Im not at my house now but i have some pictures from the advertisement. 
Ts unc v-power

27 minutes ago, John said:

What brand of crayford focuser is that ?

 

On 06/08/2020 at 21:29, Nigella Bryant said:

Probably thought it was drugs, lol. 

Hm strange.   Thats not what Holland is known for at all🤥

I have a question about a crayford focuser that has 2 big rectangular blocks on top.  Im not yet planning to open them to see whats underneath it, but maybe someone recognize it?   My guess is the bearing but i Thought i sometimes see these blocks used as a clamp for finders or something like that.  

On 08/05/2020 at 19:15, Astrosharkey said:

Yep all correct

I bougth one recently for my sc (possible also newtonian with the right adapter) On the second hand market.   When inspecting it at home it was a big surprise to find out it does both electronic and manual focusing.  Havent used it yet but of course tried the both options.  It feels all okay, some sort of friction gear thing that lets you manual control the focuser while It has a permanent Belt connection with the focusmotor.   
 

Pics are from the advertisement but if you look good the shell V-power focuser can be identified.   Im sure the seller didn’t know about the manual focuser because he told me it was stuck😅

Almost like a guilty pleasure

Spent hours watching a livestream to see it gets delayed over and over again😅

Hm strange.  Im also behind an eyepiece (not continuous) for the last hour, also from the Netherlands(ben dus ook aan het kijken vanuit Nederland😄).  But didnt notice any strange light.  Have no idea what you just saw

Ha i use my old 6s also for skysafari.   Im not sure if its outdated for this task.  Cant believe that the most recent phone will improve accuracy.   Its a nice app.  Very nice.   

I have already decided to throw away the box immediately when i have it.   Just to avoid all of the above mentioned situations

1 hour ago, Ibbo! said:

I have seen them around that price when they come up for sale.

I hope its my first small step to this (for me) unknown area😍

49 minutes ago, Rob said:

Well if you paid £90.. not bad at all

https://www.firstlightoptics.com/takahashi-telescope-accessories/takahashi-le-eyepieces.html

Ha well i just paid for it.  Needed one person to convince me.  Thx. 
I dont mind if its not that good at all.  It will probably sell easy i guess(hope)

Hello.  Any suggestions of what they are worth?   One came for sale and have to pay £90,- for it.   Any help is much appreciated

17 minutes ago, si717 said:

hi and thanks iam inputing the data correctly polar aligning right i have owned telescopes in the past

iam not a complete newb just been a few years since i last used

iam using a brandnew skywatcher battery pack fully charged

i would understand if it went sort of in the correct direction of the star but to the complete opisite side of the sky is confusing and frustrating

i have also tried -00.00 hours and +00.00 hours also daylight savings ive tried on and off

none of which is making any difference iam stumped and ive tried downloading synscaninit but it wont connect to gps

it just gets locked in that part so of no use

so yes iam a little confused and in alot of doubt about the mount its brand new making more upsetting ,but thanks all for replys

Im not sure but there is always some confusion about the date input.   Not the input like you used to.   And its a shame that the synscan doesn’t have a loop from 1-12 months in it.  You can easily switch months and days without noticing.  And then your whole setup is messed up

2 hours ago, Marvin Jenkins said:

Second, make sure that when you have Polaris dead in the cross hairs that your scope when turned to the sky can see Polaris too.

Try to use an app that tells you where polaris should be at the time of aligning.   Always somewhere near but never  centered in the crosshairs

Did you start with the scope aiming at polaris(roughly).  Its the mounts home position, and you really have to start from there.   So before you start to do a 1/2/3 star alignment, and having the mount Polaraligned, you unlock the cluthes and aim the main scope parallel with the polarscope(aiming at polaris).  
 

The aiming does not have toe be exactly accurate.  The 1/2/3 star alignment will filter your Mistakes on the “near”home position.  A good polaralignment on the other hand is kind of important.

I quess you need to use a finderscope or red dot finder, and try to find the moon for example, get the moon in the center of the eyepiece and then as quick as you can, adjust the finderscopes crosshaires or red dot also at the center of the moon.  Check them after you finished because In the eyepiece the moon is probably offcenter again.  When the finderscope is alligned with the main scope, you try to “find” a star with the finderscope and check the eyepiece again, it should show the star. Starting on the moon might also help you to focus.