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Posts posted by Robindonne
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10 minutes ago, TareqPhoto said:
It happened to me for the mount, it fried inside, bad news that i had to replace the motherboard only, the good news is that only one or two items damaged from that ruined motherboard, so maybe one day i can find those capacitors or resistors somewhere to replace then i can bring my old original motherboard back to life and keep it as a backup., and that all happened while i was using a 3rd party power adapter i bought from eBay.
Caused by these splitters?
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3 minutes ago, DaveL59 said:
do be sure to cap off any on the spider that you aren't connecting to a device. These plugs can easily short if they touch against metal and if lucky just the PSU blows, if unlucky, well... fried mount electronics etc perhaps.
Yes sorry I forgot to mention. They’re cheap! Bought the 2, 3 and 6 version to prevent hanging connectors. But good you’ve mentioned the risks of course!
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You mean local guy!
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Thanks by the way very much. Bought it not long ago (used) that 100mm. And its always a surprise. For an amateur like me even more. No scratches? Ok ill take it🙂
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2 minutes ago, Merlin66 said:
It’s due to the atmosphere.
Differential refraction of the atmosphere, most noticeable when viewing objects at lower altitude, acts like like a prism.
Yes it’s seen from Holland And indeed i couldnt wait tonight to take a look😬. Ok so most of the times it should solve itself during the night?
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1 hour ago, Stu said:
It is most likely atmospheric chromatic abberation. Your scope should be pretty much false colour free visually, and so long as the eyepiece is decent that’s all it can be. The main problem is that the planets are low currently (assuming you are in the U.K. or similar latitude), so you are looking through a lot of atmosphere.
I hoped for an answer like this🙏🏼 Ok so this is when an ADC? Comes in handy?
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Its probably easy to answer for the most of you, but what is it that puts a blueish edge on the top of jupiter and red on the bottom edge? Ive never seen it like this. I use a 12,5 mm S plössl in a powermate 2,5. Through a 100mm equinox.
its almost similar as looking at the Principality of Lucca and Piombino flag waving
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Try removing the eyepiece from the polarscope when you have the mount laying on a couch or bed. You will see a piece of glass in the polarscope housing that can be rotated when you loosen the 3 hex screws slightly. Beware that calibration is needed afterwards
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30 minutes ago, John said:
This was some time ago. I don't have either the Porta I or that particular 100mm F/9 now.
The Porta II is designed to be able to move between tripods. I don't think the Porta I was. Sounds like you have improved the situation somewhat though adjustment though ?
Oh ok. So the combo wasn’t a success? Well i managed to reduce it to almost no movement. But i dont think i found some great solution for my problem. I guess i just removed a lot of the movement/backlash grown over time. Im not sure because my 80 mm didn’t show this wobbling, i might have thightened it more then recommended But is moves smooth even by hand. So im happy for the moment🙂
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9 hours ago, Peter Drew said:
Yes, this is the same Porta mount that I have. After removing the aluminium legs I drilled and tapped the unserside of the Vixen tripod top 10mm thread to accept a 10mm shaft allowing me to use the tripod spreader of the steel tripod. 🙂
Thx. Because of your story i got interested in the way the head was mounted to the tripod. After removing the head i saw a small (shaft) nut that holds the two az parts. I thightened the nut just a bit more than the markings on the nut showed. The “wobble” after focusing is reduced, in time, like 80%. Thx very much for bringing me to removing the head😉
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2 hours ago, John said:
but when I put the 100mm F/9 on it
Hm ok. Because you are one the victims who suffer from a mouthwatering setup, how do you use that 100mm f/9?
40 minutes ago, Peter Drew said:I do a lot of telescope mods and use an original Vixen Porta mount for convenience to test for focus, collimation, that sort of thing. I found that replacing the aluminium tripod with an EQ6 steel tripod made a significant improvement with stability. I just took the legs off the aluminium tripod and bolted the tripod top to the tripod top of the steel one. 🙂
I use the old version. The one thats bolted to the tripod with 3 hex screws. Is that what you mean? Remove that toppart? Because the porta 2 has something like a removable head, mine only Has a rigorous removable top
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Goodmorning. I was wondering if my grab and wobble mount is to lightweight for my scope. My only mount for doing some visual enjoyment is a Vixen porta from the first generation. I use it a lot during a week. Fold it in, walk outside, fold it out and ready to do some observing in 30 seconds. With an 80mm all works great. With a 100 mm (and quite longer tube, 900 mm) focusing is a terrible job. Focus, wait for the wobble to stop, slew to the object that’s already out of view when the wobbling stopped, focus again a bit more etc.
Is this caused by the mount or the length of the tube? I realize both are influencing the aftershocks from focusing. But is possible to get a solid grab and go mount that doesn't have this problem? I see a lot of mouthwatering setups with huge refractors. Do they all suffer from a period of movement after focusing for example? -
Yes you are very right. Im not even at 1% i quess. And we probably all end at Max 30%. Thats what will make it always interesting. The great amount of unknown.
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Oke basically a very useless post. Bought last year a used 80 mm ed. It came with multiple eyepieces and one of them is a 3.8 mm eudiascopic. Ive never really used this one because it always gave a blurry, vague and dim view. My other 71ed was even more terrible to use with this 3.8. Last week bought an 100ed and finally i saw the benefits of that small eyepiece. That was my “wow” from the post-title🙂.
I think i finally realized why the max usefull magnification is mentioned with different diameter scopes.- 5
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Hm oke thx. The still availability is new for me thx. The “overpriced” and lack of reactions can be seen as an answer🙂. Thx again.
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If i were you i would look for an adapterplate if these are available for your combo. If not then i assume its the only option. I‘ve seen a lot newtonians where new holes were made for the focusser. Dont know if its always the best looking option
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In holland its even more extreme. Wanted ads asking for used items and willing to pay more then newprice because of the ever extending delivery dates😬.
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Hello. I was wondering if anyone is familiar with this scope. Its probably a dated model. One came for sale and while i dont have a small sc anymore it might be a good alternative. Just dont know a thing about this model.
By good alternative i mean fun to use. Or interesting to use. My guess is that its never been a succes this model
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If you’ve checked the psu with a decent meter I wouldn’t pay much attention to the skywatcher-meter😬
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Heq5. No doubt
Which weather app?
in Getting Started General Help and Advice
Posted · Edited by Robindonne
I once installed skylive for ios. Cant really judge and compare them with others. I think most of the apps have a common source. Somehow i like the layout of this app but thats maybe because im very inexperienced!
I added a screenshot i send to someone Its from the good old days
oh and i must say its very accurate lately. It shows a 0% in visibility😕