CaptainShiznit

I got one recently on my 130pds which holds a DSLR with coma corrector and LPS filter in the focuser. Had no issues at all hardware wise except needing to buy different screws as the supplied ones didn't fit my focuser. Software wise I use APT and the autofocus doesn't do a great job. Could be my fault, could be dim stars through either light pollution or the filter. I tend to just focus manually within APT. It's great to be able to see where the focus is represented by a number and to have such fine adjustment. I would recommend it.

Hey, So I follow AstroBackyard on YouTube, and he often talks about capturing new data to add to and improve existing data. I was hoping someone could clear up how this is done. Aren't the new images going to be out of alignment with the old ones? Slightly off framing or camera rotation? Does it matter? Can DeepSkyStacker compensate for this or is there a way to reframe a new shot precisely like the old ones? Also, I've made an assumption that you just stack the new data with the old in DSS / similar. Is this correct? Are there any particular settings to play with that differ from stacking a single session? Probably over thinking this. Cheers!

For me, imaging wise it's the best thing since sliced bread. It removes the need for a finder scope and manually pointing your scope. It also removes the need to star align your mount. I use plate solving with APT. There are easy to follow resources on how to set this up both on YouTube and Google if you have a little look, it involves downloading a couple of databases to your laptop so there's no need for an internet connection. After it's setup, it's as simple as telling APT where to point, taking an image, plate solving it, pressing the sync button, then having it slew again to your target which should then be practically centered. A few clicks of a button from the comfort of my fold out chair.

If you are imaging or intending to image you might find this useful. I was happy to leave all this behind using APT and plate solving. After polar alignment, you can use APT to slew to where you want, plate solve, sync and slew again. You can even use the GoTo++ function and it'll do it all automatically usually in under a minute and have your target perfectly centered. Once I discovered this, there was no going back to using the handset and star alignment.

By freakish coincidence, I also bought these bolts recently and had them delivered only 2 days ago. I got them on my HEQ5 today (which I bought used and is the older kind with no green). The ratchet bolt is very very close to the polar scope and I can no longer fit the cap on. It does work however so I'm fairly satisfied. They are certainly easier to adjust than the stock bolts. I took a picture earlier to show off my cable management to a friend and you can make out the ratchet in it if it helps at all. As you can see it is practically touching the polar scope. I'm at 52°.

Wow. Astro pixel processor is now also on my list of software to try. I had previously only used gradient Xterminator and action sets in Photoshop to try and remove light pollution but they get nowhere near these kinds of results. Really appreciate the insight!

Outstanding job with free software. I've never heard of Siril but the website has me interested for sure. Gonna have to give it a whirl now. Thanks alacant.

Cheers Ivor. That looks slightly better than where I got to before I gave up. I'll give it another look. It's a shame to have to crop so aggressively but I don't think there's another option. I'm actually under Knowsley council where I live rather than Liverpool. There's a recent article I came across today stating that they were replaced very recently but not with LEDs (maybe with the white light ones such as mine) but they're now considering replacing them again with LEDs. Link below. https://www.liverpoolecho.co.uk/news/liverpool-news/merseyside-council-set-spend-millions-17846280 Thanks again 😊

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That would certainly be helpful. I'll see what they say if they respond, cheers!

Cheers Ivor. As requested:

I'm trying to think of the best way to shield the light out. It would be more like something at ground level to just keep my scope in the 'shade' I think but not sure how to go about it. The dew shield idea could be a good alternative to flocking I could try first. I'm never sure if the lights are LED or not. Some around here are orange which are obviously the old sodium vapour type, and some (including the one in question) are white lights - still not 100% sure it's LED. If I wasn't paranoid about electric shocks I'd just open it up and unplug the sod 😅

Getting really disheartened with the street light sitting behind my garden interfering with my hard earned data. I use an IDAS D2 LPS filter but that only seems to cut down on general skyglow. M81/82 were high in the sky last night and I sat up until 4am imaging them only to have seemingly unusable data thanks to the horrible gradients. Admittedly there was a full moon which probably contributed but disheartening none-the-less. I might flock my scope as my next move just to try and cut down on the street lamp's light entering the top of my tube but other than that I'm at a bit of a loss on how to proceed. I've complained to the council asking for some kind of shield to be fitted (I said light was entering back bedroom) but I've had nothing back. It's a bit high to DIY anything up but willing to hear suggestions. Anyway, I thought I'd make my data available to see if anyone had any magic wands to wave. https://drive.google.com/open?id=1YJZWYEke3h3JvqSbc13F0IwRJDmWx7bU 90s subs @ISO800 / 50 Bias, 30 Flats, 20 Darks / Gear in signature

Cheers for that, I might have to take you up on it. Can it not be controlled directly with APT via ASCOM?

Hey, So I just treated myself to a ZWO EAF from FLO. I was wondering what the proper setup and use of it would look like using APT and the gear in my signature. Cheers

I was thinking similar myself. Here's the curve: So between 400 and 700nm, I can estimate that it's blocking approx 450-460nm (10nm) and 560-630nm (70nm) which means it blocks 80 out of 300nm or 27% of the spectrum. Would it be over simplifying to multiply the light pollution electron rate (P) by 0.73 or maybe even just multiplying the exposure time by around 1.37 to compensate? (Hope you follow my maths 😅) I think I'll try and experiment with both as well as the original exposure time!

Just wanted to say I watched that whole video and it was such an interesting one. I love the scientific and mathematical approach and I think everyone should watch it. One thing that didn't get factored in was the use of a standard light pollution filter though. Any idea how the use of one would affect the optimum sub length? (I have an IDAS D2 for example).

Brilliant! Thank you

Cheers for the replies guys, really helpful. To answer some questions, yes the bane of my imaging to the west is a street light overlooking my garden. I suspected it was the culprit of my gradients, although I was imaging brazenly close to it by the time the clouds were approaching. Interesting to see how my LPS filter would size up to it. I haven't found it to have to be too far into the OTA. I haven't measured but I would say it's still got an inch or more of travel left before it's fully inside. Would you mind me asking what your process looked like for working out such an accurate optimum exposure? I would love to replicate it. Cheers!

Hey, so I'm aware my final image is terrible which is why I'm asking for help. I was hoping someone could point out mistakes that I've made either post or pre processing. I've included my stacked image as well as my processing attempt in case anyone wants to have a go themselves. I'll also include a link to download my raw data in case anyone wants to stack it themselves: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1LuN_kNZYl4QpNeTvxiYHfQzhkthJf4bg I used Photoshop for processing and it's still very new to me. All I've done is levels and curves, GradientXterminator and various action sets. Capture details: SW 130PDS / HEQ5 Pro (Belt modded) / Canon 600D (unmodded) / IDAS D2 LPS filter / Baader MKIII MPCC / 180s subs (unguided) Captured in APT. Just looking to learn and improve. Cheers. m45.TIF

Just wondering if anyone had any experience with these kind of pre made battery boxes? https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01EJV2V1G/ref=cm_sw_r_wa_apa_i_H4TvEb24GM4N1 I'm looking for as much plug and play as possible for my mobile power, as I don't do electrics and don't feel comfortable with any DIY to do with electricity. This seems like a great solution for me to just dump a leisure battery in and connect it up. Can anyone see any potential issues? I want it to power my laptop, my HEQ5 and future proof potential dew heaters, filter wheels etc. I know there's just the one 12v output, but I'm assuming I could get a power distribution box at some point to power everything from. In the mean time I intend to power my laptop with it using a car charging adapter for my specific laptop. Cheers

This sort of image also helped me to get to grips with polar alignment. Your polar axis points at the celestial pole in the top right of the image. Slewing the scope in Dec moves the scope along the top right to bottom left diagonal blue lines, while slewing in RA moves the scope along the top left to bottom right diagonal blue lines. Automatic tracking also follows the target as it moves in RA across the sky. If your alignment is slightly off, the slewing and tracking will not perfectly follow those lines and so the target you are observing or imaging will drift in your field of view. If it's a lot off, your targets will not be at all where your mount thinks they are.

Imagine the sky and your mount are both clocks. Polaris is the sky's midnight and your mount's polar axis is the mount's midnight. Polar alignment aligns your mount's clock with the sky's clock. Once your mount and the sky are both pointing at the same midnight, you can slew the telescope to, for example, 3 o'clock and it will point at the part of the sky that you were expecting (using both RA and Dec if necessary) The mount will also be able to track to 3:01, 3:02, 3:03 in perfect sync with the sky and keep your object centered in view (using only RA).

I would agree that the 200 will suit you much better for visual. It is a big scope though so I'm not sure how the HEQ5 would hold up once you start strapping auto guiding scopes, cameras, filter wheels etc on top. Would be best to check the listed weight of the 200 vs the other scopes and see how much load weight you have leftover for AP extras later. The 150 would certainly be a good compromise for you in my humble opinion. John

I'm by no means an expert but I asked similar questions a few months ago. The 130PDS is recommended above all others in the Skywatcher range for getting into astrophotography so that's what I got and don't regret it. I also have an HEQ5 Pro and it's a great combo. Check out the 130PDS thread on the imaging section, it's a hugely capable scope and would save you some pennies for accessories which you will no doubt quickly populate a wish list of. John