-Joe_

After spending almost a year getting any sort of image out of my Solar Scout (needed a UV/IR filter), spent today getting this: I'm quite pleased with that. I honestly didnt expect to be getting proms or other events captured so soon). I left the stacking artifacts in, as I like the look .. YMMV 1000 frames, DSS, ASI290mm, ADC, Astronomik UV/IR L1 filter. Used Autostakkert and ImgPPG, then Gimp for colour (with tips from @michael.h.f.wilkinson's sticky here).

So does everyone with one of these use an IR/UV filter, and wouldn’t even think to not use one... hence no “and don’t forget your IRUV filter”, or is there an issue with certain scopes and/or cameras?

I have limited experience, but the scout seems good now I have the correct filter. The only thing I'm not too sure is the focus mechanism - which done by twisting the tube. I used a 1.25" filter next to the camera Joe

Thanks, @Dflyboy, Today I got chance to fit the filter and it made night and day difference. This was with my ASI1600mm, not a great image but a start:

Thanks for that info - I've just ordered one and we'll see if I get anywhere.

Using the scout with my 1600mm, i needed a tilt adapter to get rid of newtons rings. I havent been able to get a clear image at all though, and have just been recommended the IR/UV cut filter - I've ordered one this morning to see. My advice would be to put the camera in the scope and see what you get...

I tried visually, could see a reasonable sharp red disc, no features. My eyes aren’t too good so not absolutely sure on the level detail I’d be able to see..

I’ve got a daystar solar scout 60DS, attached to a nexstar mount, with a 290mm camera. Then usb to Mac book pro running firecapture

Thanks, I’ve tried both a 1600mm and a 290mm. Both at unity gain and both 8 or 16 bit, with the histogram 80-90% filled, no clipping. Cant seem to get the focus any tighter, and spent yesterday going through each setting on the tuning knob, waiting for green, then trying focus again. Question: how bad does seeing and transparency affect the image? Are there days when you can see just this? I’ve run out of things to try now, and am concerned I have a duff unit.

Additional info: For the image, gain was 110, exposure 7ms Ive also tried an eyepiece and can see a red disc, the edges sharp, but cant make out any features (my eyes arent too good so not sure )

Hi all, Still having problems getting anything out of my solar telescope: I can seem to focus, but just get a featureless disc (see below). I know the sun is dormant right now but expected to see something more than this. I have tried changing the power adapter (even using the original with a 110-220 converter) and changing the camera. Am I expecting too much and this is just the bad seeing/haze? Is it my focus that needs to be better? The image below is just a single frame, from firecapture, using a 290mm attached to the telescope. PS. Additional points for telling me what the thumb screw is for next to the bullet finder...

https://indilib.org/forum/ekos/3111-re-kstars-icon-missing-in-my-lxde-environment.html?start=0

I had a similar problem when building it once.... then it was due to a missing icon/image package.. not sure if that’s any help or not...

Here’s a tutorial from the kstars developer on using a Canon..

It should work through KStars/Ekos (which uses INDI) Dont have a Dslr but procedure should be roughly: start kstars, go to ekos, setup your profile, and choose the correct driver for your camera there. ekos then deals with operating everything, including the Dslr in th eCamera tab (that’s a very rough/quick guide)

No need, it's very useful to confirm what I'm doing as I start...

Yeah, I realise I'm probably doing this at the worst time...

Yes, its the 1600mm. Seems to be ok for getting in focus (although hard to judge with no detail, but i can move past the focus point no problem) So next question was, as you say, the tuner - how critical is that? is it a case of working your way through 1 click at a time and eventually the details will pop out?

I've just got hold of one of these, and trying to get some images through it. Does anyone know if I need to set the camera at a certain back focus position? I just get a grey featureless disc, and want to eliminate that question... cheers joe

Once you have eqmod, you can start plate solving. No alignment (just PA)... just capture and slew... even load a photo from the internet, plate solve and slew. ive never plugged my synscan handset in..

I think pretty much any scope requires all this adding ... A minimum setup for you might be: -- 72ED 2" nosepiece Extension tube Canon adapter Camera -- I don't actually know if you'd need an extension tube (I've read somewhere that the canon has 46mm from chip to front - perhaps someone can confirm), but they are cheapish.. With a flattener it looks like: -- 72ED x0.85 flattener Canon adapter (looks like this is the correct size to get the 55mm backfocus - https://www.firstlightoptics.com/adapters/skywatcher-dslr-m48-ring-adapter.html) Camera -- I've spent ages trying to work this all out over the last few months and hear what you are saying about why dont they just come with everything. I think there are just too many ways they can be used, and once you have one set you wont need it again for the next scope, and the one after that... Of course - i'm still new to this, so i may be wrong somewhere or everywhere... ;o)

I started on a 72ed a few months ago. To answer your questions: 1. Yes you will need some form of adapter - can’t advise the correct one as I used a cmos. 2. You will probably need some form of extension tube to allow the camera to sit far enough back that it can focus in the range of the focusser 3. There is a skywatcher reducer/flattener, and also the OVL flattener. The skywatcher fits directly. Both will then mean you have to put the camera sensor as specified distance (backfocus) from the flattener. This is 55mm for the skywatcher, not sure for the OVL. You use the various extension tubes to get the required distance. I think for the OVL you might also need an adapter to convert the thread from the 72ed to whatever the the OVL is. Flattener: https://www.firstlightoptics.com/reducersflatteners/ovl-field-flattener.html https://www.firstlightoptics.com/reducersflatteners/skywatcher-85x-reducerflattener-for-evostar-72ed-pro.html Hope this helps...

Thinking of getting into solar imaging, Ha in particular, and looking at the daystar solar scout as price and reviews seem good. I already have an alt/az mount I can use, and I assume I can use my ASI1600mm camera in the short term at least. Anything else I need to consider? Extension/backfocus, other filters, etc? If I want to do close ups, do I need to get a camera with a smaller sensor, and/or barlows? Just trying to work out what a full setup will need to be? cheers joe

And that isn’t rubbing it in? 🐵

I'm very jealous... enjoy it!