DaveL59

On 22/09/2023 at 18:31, DaveL59 said:

No worries 🙂

Can confirm an EQ5 head fits, loose where it goes into the well of this adaptor but once bolted down it's fine.

Once I sort how best to attach it to the TAL tripod boss I'll be able to return the TAL tripod to original config and use the EQ5 on it that way and have a spare tripod with ally legs to use when needed too.

So a bit of a browse on that long river place yesterday eve and just now they delivered some stainless steel bits:
screw-eye 3/8-16 UNC and some 1.5mmx40mm M10 washers.

A couple penny washers under that screw-eye to spread the loading and...

How's that? 🙂 

Just need to refit the boss onto the TAL wooden legs and it'll be back to as-original with an EQ5 adaptor on top.

So here it is fitted up. I worked a 25mm nylon M8 washer down to fit the 20mm hole in the centre of the TAL boss to aid centring the adaptor and screw then opened the M8 centre hole so it is a tight fit to the 3/8-16 screw thread so it retains the 40mm penny washer on the screw eye. Overall pretty pleased with that result 🙂 

Now a couple things. You could bolt the adaptor base to the tripod and fit the upper section to the EQ5 and then try to screw the 2 sections together. Good chance of cross threading and awkward with the weight of the EQ5 even without weights fitted. Or you bolt the upper section to the EQ5 and then screw the bottom section on and fit that complete assembly to the tripod. I did the latter with the EQ5 laying on the sofa so I could line up the tripod & 3/8 screw eye. Still awkward but easier than trying to screw the EQ5 head on while balancing it one-handed. Getting it north-aligned, either one leg or between the legs aimed to N is a bit hit and miss, comes down to screwing it up nice and tight in just the right orientation, not particularly important tho.

I guess it'll be easier with a photo tripod with a fixed 3/8 screw in the head @StevieDvd but either way is doable and solves the issue of using an EQ5 head on photo gear if you do go that route 🙂 

A further update: I noted that if moving the scope by hand with clutches released it is possible to have the upper section of the adaptor start to rotate also, as in undo if moving things in that direction. I picked out a couple of 3mm nylon thumbscrews from my parts box and nipped those up tight in the 2 tapped holes where the threaded sections mate and that so far is keeping the two sections from unscrewing. Went with nylon to not damage the machined threads for the moment, might be worth running a metal screw in to mark the threads and then drill to accommodate a longer screw to lock the two parts together if it becomes a problem later on.

57 minutes ago, StevieDvd said:

Thanks,

I'll keep this in mind as a backup solution. It would be for putting my Altair Sabre mount on a carbon fibre tripod. The base of the Sabre is not a flush fit on the base plate of the tripod and my sense of a proper safe fit is prompting me for a good solution.  Whether that's getting an adapter made or using one like you have bought seems a good idea.

Steve

 

No worries 🙂

Can confirm an EQ5 head fits, loose where it goes into the well of this adaptor but once bolted down it's fine.

Once I sort how best to attach it to the TAL tripod boss I'll be able to return the TAL tripod to original config and use the EQ5 on it that way and have a spare tripod with ally legs to use when needed too.

57 minutes ago, StevieDvd said:

@DaveL59

I was looking at these but was not sure of the sellers as the prices varied so much. Do the two parts screw together (looks as if they are threaded) and locked with a single screw. And what are the other screw holes for, any user guide come with it?

Also, do you mind me asking which seller and how much it cost including delivery etc?

Thanks

Steve

Hi Steve,

Indeed the 2 halves screw together which I was pleased to see, esp given the weight of an EQ5 and gear. The tapped holes around the sides have no provided screws but 2 of them at the base of the upper section could be used to lock the parts together if desired (after sourcing suitable screws of course). The ones in the middle of the upper part I guess could also lock against the inserted EQ head flanges tho I can't see why you would do that.

The one I purchased was this one, overall cost around £56 inc shipping and VAT which they bill for these days.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005532892902.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.5.21ef1802sujog9

Yet to try it for fit on the EQ5 head as working from home but will give it a look later on.

Fresh in from China just a few mins ago a EQ5 base for 3/8 tripod thread, ordered with a view to fitting to the TAL wood tripod that didn't have a cup to hold a mount.

The lower part on the right is 3/8 threaded to fit to a photo tripod then the upper (left) screws onto it to carry the EQ head. Looks nicely made and very solid.

My initial thoughts when ordered was to just use the top section and drill for the 6 screws to bolt it directly onto the TAL tripod boss, but that may in fact be better to do on the lower section. As a quick test however I used a 3/8-1/4 adaptor I have on the big Zeiss 180mm lens and...

Might work well enough tho I'll sort obtaining some proper 3/8 bolts etc if I plan on setting the EQ5 head and a long scope onto it I think 😉 Or go with plan-A and drill/tap for 6 suitable bolts to secure that baseplate instead.

As pictured tho it may be fine for something lighter like the ZWO Seestar S50 when that gets here. Just ordered the puck to make the EQ5 base adapt for 3/8 tripod screw.

1 hour ago, M40 said:

Using a mask with the seestar, where there is no manual focus unless I have missed it, I presume we goto a bright star insert the mask, then autofocus? What do you think.

seems so from the videos, at lest it'll confirm focus is good. MF may come along in a firmware update which would make the mask more useful.

I had wondered about that arrangement around the focuser, thanks for explaining it 🙂 

Does look nice and I'm the right side of the Thames if a lot further into Kent. Not really looking for another scope tho, too many already, had that come up when I first bought gear I'd have opted for that one rather than the SW130 EQ2 I currently have and rarely use now. Pity, worth the price for just the mount and eyepieces even.

Now received the mask from ebay, looks well made. I note there's a slight dimple in the rim that fits into the S50, possibly to get it to snug fit and hold in position.

Also found my x1.4 tele/wide adaptors which are Tokina ones. Quite light so may carry easily enough on the S50, 49mm thread and a 52mm adaptor, so with your filter ring I'd sort a 49-48 step-down to fit it, perhaps.

In case useful for verification, diameter across with the nib. Depth of the section going into the S50 opening 4.7mm.

The problem will be weather resistance for pretty much any, since it'll be aimed upward which isn't the normal deployment. I do have a couple on the shed, one is a small dome assembly that I fitted a small IP CCTV module (a Hik compatible little 30x30mm cube unit from Ali) into it with a fisheye lens. Needs care to get it well sealed as water running off the dome will pool where the seal is but a smidge of clear RTV helps. No need for a dew heater on that since the module runs quite warm but there is a Silica Gel sachet in there also. Can monitor it via the HikVision iVMS app on the phone/tablet or desktop since it's cable LAN connected back to the house. Not good enough to pick out the stars unless very bright but gives a view of cloud cover and direction.

The other I built using a PTZ dome assembly, bought non-working of the bay. Gutted, replacement clear dome with nitrile gasket to keep the weather out and put a HD webcam in which worked OK but not quite sensitive enough for stars. I'm considering replacing the HD webcam with a Logi C270 that I put a fisheye onto the other day but not had a chance to test its sensitivity yet. I made a dew heater using ceramic resistors for this one as the webcams don't generate enough heat. Of course you then need a way to connect to it, for which I use a USB-network server so I can link to it from my desktop and use Sharpcap as if it is a locally attached USB camera, not possible to use it via phone/tablet however.

Does seem that if you want to, some post processing can improve the results. Just released vid shows him using pixinsight for example

Not sure I'll be going this far with it, more likely to just use as EEVA and perhaps play a little once in a while if I feel the urge to.

7 minutes ago, Louis D said:

I have a bunch of fisheye, wide, and tele adapters from my videoing days.  A ~50mm rear threaded adapter is going to be a bit on the heavy side to cover such a large objective.  As such, a counterweight attached to the opposite side of the device would be necessary to avoid tracking issues.

As a suggestion, the old Nikon TC-E15ED has 50mm rear threads, quality ED glass (no added violet fringing that I've seen in high-res test images), and weighs 275g (9.6 oz).  It might be a good candidate to try.  They go for about $20 to $35 plus tax on ebay stateside, a bit more in the UK.  It's my goto telephoto lens for my Canon VIXIA HF M41 with the appropriate step ring.  I get better image quality with it by backing off the 10x zoom a bit to 6x or 8x and letting it bring me to ~10x without as much violet fringing as the native 10x.

A sound suggestion, thanks 🙂

I will eventually locate my old ones, can't recall the brand that was now but was fair at the time, tho the Nikon with ED glass would likely outclass it. If the experiment with the one I have works then I'd consider getting an 'upgrade'. I'm figuring some adhesive velcro tape on the back of the moving assembly would allow a small weight to be attached when needed to aid with balance.

I only ordered recently so a fair old wait for me but at least the alpha and beta testing should be well out of the way by the time I get mine 😉

Agree re lobbing a wide/tele, weight may be a factor, will have to locate the one I had and see if its even worth a try. A bit of double-sided tape to hold the adaptor down might do the trick tho if not too long/heavy. More chance it'll confuse the smarts tho but for planets if you can manually target it may just add enough to wow the grandkids and encourage them to want to see more via a real scope/eyepiece.

45 minutes ago, powerlord said:

So rough costs - If I do a run of 30 of them, I can do em for 4 quid each + postage. So say another 4 for the adapter, and just sell as a set - bahtinov and 48mm adapter for a tenner posted.

the only issue is that I really need accurate size for the diameter for the aperture on the S50 to design them, as I don't have mine yet. It has to be accurate to the .1mm (i.e. with digital calipers). IF someone can give me that, AND ideally the depth of the hole before the lens, then I can design the parts and get them printed professionally in the next few weeks. If not, it will need to wait till I actually get my S50.

SLS printing in nylon will have the following benefits:

1. tougher part (nylon vs pla or abs of extrusion printing)

2. much higher accurancy of part (super sharp lines, etc)

3. almost professional injection molded finish (will be more matte, but in this application that's a positive)

4. very fine parts like the 48mm thread will be much more accurate than extrusion printing

I doubt I'd have difficulty shifting them all, and I'd just look to recover costs - that is my outlay for the printing, jiffy bags and posting.

Don't have mine yet either so can't help with measurements, but you can mark me down for the pair if you're also looking to get a scope on numbers 🙂 What thread pitch would the 48mm have?

Been a while for me, but idling some time I took a closer look at one of the Logi C270's I have kicking around when I'd picked a couple extra up cheap. An 8mm (M8) lens and I wondered about trying it as a sky camera, perhaps. So duly ordered an M8 fisheye lens that arrived this morning. 

So off with the trim and faceplates and remove the std lens that has a dab of glue locking it into focus position and that of course made screwing the new lens in quite tight. Looking at positioning I refitted the faceplate and screwed the lens in which fits just fine. Had to use a plier to grip the lens enough to screw it in far enough for focus but it works.

Didn't take a snap of the lens as delivered but heck it looks the same as any other M12 type. Here's the lens fitted tho:

Some scuffs from the pliers but not so worried about that, a touch of black paint pen will cover that nicely 😉

You don't get a full 180,probably close to 150 degrees wide, but for literally a couple quid the lens works and if the C270's low light ability delivers it may make a fair replacement for the generic webcam I currently use that these days picks up almost nothing.

Of course with the skies here more grey than black nowadays, may be a pointless endeavour but its been something to do for a short time 😉 

1 hour ago, Giles_B said:

Sorry - I didn't want to sound churlish and it's obvious from the comments that's how it came across.

Yes the ability to visualise and image the Sun is a great addition and shows the versatility of the SeeStar, and it will add a lot of enjoyment - I certainly didn't want to damp anyone's fire. All I was really saying was the obvious - that WL is a nice addition to the scope, but that the real magic is in its ability to visualise DSOs.

For me that's the main attraction also, I'm not wanting a further/larger scope and tired eyes makes trying to pick out the faint stuff harder these days. Add some Solar abilities and it fills all the gaps nicely at a decent price and will hopefully add interest for the daughter/grandkids since it'll be a lot easier looking at a screen together than taking turns at a manual alt/az scope.

2 hours ago, powerlord said:

 

I think I'll design one and get a batch sls printed to sell at cost on here like I did for eos clip in 1 1/4in filters. Give me a few weeks. They'll be much higher quality. I'll do a 2" filter adapter too. Watch this space.

Stu

I did hit buy on the ebay one, but if you do go ahead I'd be happy to buy  one and the filter adaptor if you do one of those too, might work well for if/when I give the tele lens add-on a go 🙂 

On 16/09/2023 at 09:07, Stonecutter said:

 

3.  The voice announcing what it is doing is too loud (option to mute ) neighbours must wonder what is happening in my garden.

 

Is the voice from the tablet/phone app or the S50 itself?

Perhaps a headset would be worth considering if out late and disturbing the neighbours is a consideration?

tbh I found similar with the starsense explorer app when it bings etc but at least managed to turn off or quiet it enough, hopefully similar can be achieved.

3 minutes ago, Giles_B said:

I doubt this filter compares to a dedicated WL setup with Herschel wedge and a continuum filter. Even the stacked pictures that have been posted look inferior to the sorts of visual results I'm used to.  It clearly is a versatile telescope, but as a visual observer it is the DSO performance that attracts me - it has no viable competitor unless you are willing to spend megabucks on a night vision system.

can't comment re solar as I'll never do that directly by eye, I don't do bright objects very well, migraines and all. With the S50 tho at least I can give it a go and not cause myself issues so it'll do fine for me 🙂 

1 minute ago, LDW1 said:

Some have said you don't need a mask, that it doesn't improve anything !

Reviews so far seem to say their AF works pretty well, but at least with one you have the means to verify. If manual focus come along then it may be useful as an aid should you feel the need.

If anyone wants a bahtinov mask for theirs someone on the bay-of-e is doing them for £10.99 inc postage, 3D printed

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/276044825431

23 hours ago, rnobleeddy said:

For example, I've kept some kit to take white light photos of the sun. I enjoy it. All this needs is a way to attach a 1.25" or 2" filter somewhere, and the right software, and it's going to produce white light solar images as good as my setup, which cost a lot more. 

It ships with a solar filter that pops in in front of the objective so can do solar out of the box 🙂 

heard about it on the radio this morning when the wake-up alarm turned on, they made the story last a fair while and clearly struggled to no laugh all the way through it 😄 

8 minutes ago, M40 said:

Not as far as I know, there is a brightness selector but that didn't seem to do much, likely to be user error again. That was the best single shot I could get, even pulling out a single frame from a video did not improve it. It got worse if I autofocused on Jupiter so I focused on a star. There has to be some level of brightness control otherwise how will it work on the moon?  

I recall in one of the vids that the issue was the lack of user adjustment of exposure time hence no brightness control. Did you try the daytime scenic mode, that may give a bit more control but IIRC the reviewer didn't find a way around it. At the time I was thinking some form of filter (CPL or ND) might help but so far I don't think anyone's tried it, at lest not in the review vids.

36 minutes ago, M40 said:

Playing again last night, I think this picture shows that the Seestar is not for planets, but at the same time, I dont think I have a picture with Jupiter and five moons 

That's kinda why I was thinking of trying a x1.4/1.7/2 tele adaptor. It'd up the mag and as we know when adding a barlow, reduce the brightness of the target. Perhaps a polarizing filter might also?

I think tho the grandkids would've been wowed to just see that image but I figure it may be worth seeing if we can squeeze a touch more out of the base kit 😉 

4 minutes ago, powerlord said:

Id have thought a wideangle would make more sense - the fov is equiv to a FF sensor and 1700mm or something.

So I dug out the fisheye adaptor as I knew where I'd put it and unfortunately the slightly thicker than filter sized part is macro rather than tele. Somewhere I do/did have a tele/wide set for the video camera from some time back so will have to find that. Thinks tht set was x0.7/1.4 so yeah should be worth a play with both.

My thoughts on the tele one was a bit more magnification on planets and darkening the image a touch since we'd have no exposure control. Would make it easier for viewing with the grandkids etc perhaps. Of course there may well be issues with its ability to solve what its seeing if using it like that for starfields, but planets/moon (for a closer look) once focused and locked on it should be able to track, time will tell. Gonna be a while before I get to play about tho as I doubt I'll have an S50 in my hands for a couple months yet.