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DaveL59

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Posts posted by DaveL59


  1. managed to have a chat with the dad from next door, he's happy to angle the sensor and light away from my garden. I suggested when it's better weather as they've other priorities to get the place finished for moving in and no rush from my side. Lets face it I ain't exactly out trying to observe with the current weather! Hopefully a good result and a happy neighbour 🙂 

    • Like 2

  2. yep stock levels everywhere will be low at the moment. Nothing wrong with used as what you save can be banked toward some better eyepieces etc. Just check and if possible have demonstrated that the goto functions well in both axes. You will also need a means to power it so a powerbank is likely going to be next on your list.


  3. I guess the benefit of having the GoTo over manual will depend on what your skies are like where you plan to observe from and perhaps knowledge of what's up there that you want to try to see. In light polluted areas it can certainly help you to find targets that you won't be able to see to star-hop to. Also it'll keep the scope on target once you have found it, removing the need to try to nudge accurately to keep it in view.

    You don't say what your interest areas are, if it's moon and planets then GoTo is perhaps less useful in that they are relatively easy to target by hand.

    • Like 4

  4. tape might do, perhaps the double-sided carpet tape as that'd have a strong bond, or 3M and similar high strength type. Hard part will be to make the join areas survive handling and not lift.

    This stuff might work tho it seems to be foam type so gaps between strips of tape will show
    3M VHB 5952 Adhesive Tape Simple Permanent Bonding with Double Coated Tape, Filmic Liner, 19 mm x 3 m, Black, 1 x Roll of Tape: Amazon.co.uk: Business, Industry & Science

    or this wider one
    3M 5925 Double Sided Tape, Roseberry Heavy Duty Mounting Waterproof VHB Foam Tape, 4.8m Length, 24mm Width for Car Decor,Home Decor and Office Decor: Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools


  5. ouch, perhaps that Evostik reacted with the leatherette, I recall original evostik used to smell pretty potent so perhaps the solvents in it are too strong for the material you're using. I used the Bostix leather glue when I did the camera handgrip which worked ok and isn't strong smelling. Once you have a section stuck well, no reason you can't then do a larger section either side of it next and then secure it down with tape. At least the alignment is there and fixed which will make the remainder easier.

    For the camera grip I had to do that in 3 passes so it'd form into the dip at the upper end, then the main grip body and sides and lastly the edge around the battery bay. I did have a slight overlap at one edge but that was an easy trim with a blade once the glue had set. Didn't use lots of pressure as I applied it over the wet glue, so just enough to get it bedded in and push any air out then tape down tight till it had set.


  6. If you are getting a fuzzy disc then perhaps a small adjustment to focus is needed as it should be sharply defined. At the moment Jupiter and Saturn are quite low here in the UK and with the weather lately getting a nice clear view will be down to luck in terms of atmospheric conditions.

    • Like 1

  7. 21 minutes ago, lenscap said:

    Nice work!   Is it worth testing a scrap of the leatherette to see if it heat-shrinks?

    If so, applying some local heat might help to get  it to conform to curves, or remove or reduce bubbles & creases.

    yeah I was thinking that but watching F1 Qualy at the time so wasn't an ideal opportunity to try 😉 If it comes away and needs to be redone tho I would likely try and see if it can be heat molded into a single piece fit. Perhaps lay in hot water so its is extra flexible and then stretch if into place until it sets to shape, then trim and glue. This camera is retired tho so won't be seeing any real use, it just bugged me having owned it from new and costing me a fortune at the time.

    Funny how a lot of the top brands rubberised coverings degrade so badly tho, seen similar comments on other big brands so isn't just Minolta and yet some of the cheaper end of the market stuff just goes on forever 😞 

    • Like 1

  8. Hi Ash

    The leatherette arrived this morning so have had a quick test on the M9000 grip having removed the hard crumbling rubber. Cut a rough template in paper and then cut out a section to match.

    image.png.c1d2e901d0ba4dd487c8df79b6f29a69.png

    It'll need glue around the edges for sure and at the tucks where I've had to take narrow triangles out to cope with the curves in the grip. Probably I'll apply some glue lightly across the entire grip tho as it won't be ideal if it slips in use. I think it'll be a suitable solution to restore the camera grip tho so pretty pleased. I'd happily use this on binos but again would add some glue just to increase adhesion.

    One advantage of the sticky-back stuff, you can fit it, get it aligned right then peel back a bit to apply glue knowing the rest stays put and then it stays aligned. So after doing that and binding with masking tape, repeat on the other side. Here's the finished grip.
    image.png.68225fd93bfd6f38cc2b5b2260403f12.png

    Could've been slightly thicker to match the ridge edges but it'll do nicely I think 🙂 


  9. Jessops are generally mediocre tbh, will just be a badged china made bino. Perhaps worth trying them and see how they perform for you and decide, since it's a friend offering them. Otherwise, consider a known brand like the Olympus DPS or similar if you're after porro's.

    • Like 1

  10. Brasso may work, or believe it or not, tin foil scrunched up and rubbed against the area.

    Can't comment re the above remarks about the steel makers but stainless does rust regardless of where it is made, usually tho if in contact with other metal like plain steel and in damp conditions. You can even find that on good quality stainless cutlery if left in the sink long enough with some other implement resting against it.

    • Like 1

  11. 1 hour ago, PXR-5 said:

     

     

    I observe in perpetual mud here, so it won't work for me.

     

    However, mud can be a good accessory :)

    it acts a a vibration damper, just plop your mount down in it 😂

    Astroturf 😉 (yep John, the pun finally twigged with me lol)

    Luckily my "lawn" is that stuff and it saves the gear and me getting muddy. Downside here tho has been heavy rain as that seems to sit on top for quite a while for some reason.

    As per Mark, the starsense gizmo, makes locating stuff real simple. I'd agree re a flip mirror too, since playing initially with the SPC900 webcam I got a cheap one, much easier to get onto target with that tho I've yet to put much effort into trying to capture anything.

    Electric focuser - so much more convenient and no shakes induced making getting good focus that bit easier.

    • Like 1

  12. probably best at least on the DSO side. As said, you can still hook the camera up and do the moon and planets and then see if its really something you want to develop further.

    I have an old Philips SPC900 webcam that has a 1.25-inch adaptor on it and have briefly played with that but results so far have been poor. Not helped of course by testing on the wobbly LT70AZ but limited time and it being the lighter and easier unit to pop outside... One day I'll get the EQ5-syscan set up and give it a proper try when skies are clearer and I've the patience to do all the setup and then getting the target onto the sensor etc. I did order a T2 adaptor for the new DSLR so may try that one day, but I'm more visual so it'd be more experimental than anything for me. Not sure I want to be shelling out a small fortune for UHC/Oiii and other filters, guidescope etc nor spending hours capturing data to process.


  13. Really depends what you are hoping to do. Equatorial mounts are I believe the better option for long exposure DSO as with alt-AZ your target will slowly rotate as it strolls across the sky. You can overcome that with a camera rotator (not cheap) perhaps where an EQ mount doesn't need it. The scope you list in costco is also al alt-AZ albeit computerised goto. It'll track but in up-right steps rather than a smooth arc.

    Others who image would be able to give better advise tho.

    • Thanks 1

  14. Hope the DX102 works well for you, with good eyepieces it should show well and the starsense should make it easy to use as a push-to scope.

    I can't say much on the imaging front as I don't, but for a manual mount esp alt-AZ which the DX will be, planets would be possible by capturing video and stacking the output. You could do that with the smartphone on the NeXYZ holder.

    Long exposure would need a tracking mount and ideally EQ rather than Alt-AZ so you get tracking while maintaining orientation. Thing with serious imaging, you'd need to spend quite a bit for a decent mount and tripod, something like an EQ5 tho some have used the EQ3-2 to get started if budget is limited. An RA motor will then track but you'd need guiding for optimal results, a slippery slope for the wallet awaits...

    • Thanks 1

  15. 2 minutes ago, And_yB said:

    Incidentally... my wife is 'asking' whether the PowerTank was absolutely necessary, as it was not cheap.  Someone please tell me, and her, that it was essential.  My life would be made so much easier.... ;)  

    well in the long run, cheaper than replacing regular batteries frequently as the mount drains them 😉 

    I guess a bungee cord to use it as a weight under the tripod to add stability, oh and it had a torch 😄 

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