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Prolifics

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Everything posted by Prolifics

  1. Hi Carole thank you for doing that I will take a look online for some tutorials. I am using cc 2018 PS. I also bought some actions. Kindest regards David
  2. Thanks again Geoff for the heads up. there is no way I can afford Pixinsight at the moment and it's probably harder to use than PS I will post a final image if I get one in here. Thanks again David
  3. Hi Geoff wow you don't messaround Not too hot with Photshop I coverted the files to 16 bit and then applied deep space noise reduction. Adjusted levels and curves bit by bit and then added a new layer and copied the RGB over and then added the LUm channel next to the background and adjusted to luminosity. Thats about as far as I got. Unfortunately I had some sort of image that I wasn't very happy with so quit photoshop. I really need to go on a course or something for post processing. Regards David
  4. I took 60s x 90 Lum 120s x 20 RG&B 50 Flats & 50 Darks I have stacked the L R G and B data in deepsky stacker along with the darks and flats. But I don't seem to be getting much from the data via photoshop. I am wondering if the data was any good? Bortle 5 sky, good seeing and guiding was excellent last night. Files are located here https://www.dropbox.com/sh/rzkkbbbokj5fqei/AAAR-Jfsyvd3_6gDr3qGCyhwa?dl=0 if you fancy a play and can get anything with it. Kindest regards in advance David
  5. Hi I use eqascom (eqmod) and APTEverything was working fine last time I set up. However when I slew to say Polaris it's not in APT live view window the RA is always 3.5 more on APT and EQmod then on the plate Solve coordinates. It will not synch either comes up with cannot syncg to coordinates exception occured. Using Astap here is the screen with Polaris centered. Platesolv RA and Dec is correct but APT and EQmod althought the same are not. Using Eq6 Pro and tried the hand controller and the direct Lynx astro cable and they are botht he same so ruels the cable out. Screen for reference. Ignore the ghosting in middle this is actually a large antenna in the way
  6. Hi Alan thanks so much for doing that for me. It was the first time I used my scope with the focal reducer. I think stars are fairly round now. Use to be elongated near the edges. Like I said flats didn't come out right on the night was very tired from 4.5 hours of data I tried taking the flats 3 weeks later and I think the issue with the fluffy bits is the reason. Not sure about the RGB data. Not sure why deep sky stacker does not align properly its like a little bit off any settings you recommend to fix that. I use one of the LUM lights best score for the Reference frame as i shot either side of the Meridian and I don't have a rotator installed. Kindest regards David
  7. OMG thats amazing you can really see the detail even in the little galaxy in the north west of picture. So at least my stacking is fine First thing I do in photshop is convert them all to 16 bit. LRGB Then I level and curve adjust them all several times until I get better details. Make a new layer and copy and paste the RGB data Then I add the lum to the same layer. Thats about as far as I got sometimes I play with saturation on the RGB too. Kindest regards David
  8. Yes 50 flats for each Filter 60 darks Had to take the flats again 2 weeks after which has caused some problems.
  9. Stacked files are here if you would like to play with them LRGB and see if the data is good. https://www.dropbox.com/sh/rzkkbbbokj5fqei/AAAR-Jfsyvd3_6gDr3qGCyhwa?dl=0 Thanks in advance David
  10. I think I have the data now just not the skills for post processing via Photoshop. My 4th image. I may have over streched the image a bit If anyone else can do any better then I can post the data. Intermittant clouds. Data 90 x 1 min Lum 30 x 2 min Red 30 x 2 min Green 30 x 2 min Blue TS 107 Triplet 700mm with 0.79 Focal Reducer F5.13 Regards David
  11. I just tried indoors with 1 layer of white T-shirt and a led dimmly lit led panel on top of the T-shirt and it seems to have sorted itself. It's managed 20,000 adu at 0.046 seconds exposure. Better than the 1m 36 seconds i got before Not sure what was going on maybe APT feaked out or partially crahed after a 8 hour session. Regards David
  12. Thanks for the info I am going to set up my light panel and test it indoors. I am thinking its a bug with the latest version of APT. Use to be less than a second exposure now 1.5 minutes. Somethings wrong but it producing good images still. I normally put a white t-shirt over the lens and a flat panel lit up by led on top. I have tried with and without the t-shirt but I will do some more tests. Regards David
  13. I am using a 107 Refractor Triplet 700cm F6.5 with a Zwo asi1600 Pro Camera and filterwheel. I take my flats in APT and set it from 0.000032 seconds to 2 seconds and it works well at around 20k ADU. Exposure times very short sometimes less than a second. However since I added my 0.79 Focal reducer bringing the scope to F5.13 and around 553cm Focal Length to reach 20k ADU exposure times are around 1 Minute 45 seconds each varying slightly dependant on filter. I understand there is more light going t0 my scope which is probably has something to do with the mess up I am having with the ADU. I worked out that a 12 bit ADC camera has the range of 0-4096 ADU so maybe trying 2,000 ish would work better? KIndest regards David
  14. I would presume they were geese. Did you get any close in shots of them?
  15. Its a beautiful image though I really like it. Stunning! have you tried higher gains with narrowband like 200 to 300?
  16. Well done looks great. I love clusters especially when done in 3's. So I will award you 3 out of 3 Keep them coming!
  17. I have been playing with numbers and will be doing 60 x 2 Min of Lum and 15 x 4 mim of RGB just about fit that in the darkness of August month. What formulae do you use for Narrow band? I guess the exposure time is double of RGB but what about the Lum? Another question my scope has a focal length of 700mm and i put this in APT so platesolving will work etc. When I get my x0.79 Flattener/Reducer do I put into my programs the new focal Length for example 700mm x 0.79 = 553mm ? This is the link to small spacers to get my backfoucs perfect I just need 1mm + or - https://www.365astronomy.com/baader-t-2-delrin-setting-rings-adjustment-spacer-rings-15-pieces.html Kindest regards David
  18. Haha -30 to keep everything constant -1 and im already dead! Do your cables freeze up rigid in -30 + that must be a problem. Maybe a small wooden hand made shed with sliding roof would stop that add +15c to the temp I would make sure its all greased up well so really then you don't really need a cooler only to keep it constant. Bit like why you need a freezer up there in winter not to keep it cool but to stop everything from freezing. I guess in midwinter you can image for 17 hours of the day? Thanks for the link I will check that now. I am away Tuesday for a week so catch up with you then hopefully. Cheers David
  19. Thanks for explaining the exposure times for each filter. I was doing it half right. I always do double the Luminance amount but didn't relise about the RGB impact in light gathering. Now it all makes sense. Regarding Backfocu I will have 56mm I need 57mm so I bought some 1mm 1.5mm 0.75mm etc Baader adjustment rings so I can play with that. What is the best way to test your Flatterner? Guessing I would say take a 3 minute exposure of Luminance? Check for elongated stars at the edges and adjust back focus from there? My garden is a Bortle 5 site magnitude is around 20.27 for me. So not terrible. I guess where you are is great because you get less daylight than anyone else Plus the cooler conditions means less noise and I guess the northern lights or Aurora may hinder you at time? I also have a friend who lives up there in the north of Sweden. Kindest regards David
  20. Hi Andy I got one of these last month. I got fed up going out all the time to refocus for my filters. Comes with many springy metal adapters to fit your scope took me about 30 minutes to install it. Smooth as silk and can get better fine focus than by hand. Works flawlessly with APT. Make sure you downlaod the driver from their ZWO website and alter the ascom driver settings not on APT or SGP as driver overides it for me. You do not get a PSU with it! Any positive centre 12v power supply will do with 1.5A rating or above. If you want to go the extra mile go and fill in the backlash boxes you can determine backlash by movng the focuser until you see movement of your focus knobs one way then lower the amount from 10 to 1 and move the other way and record the Focus number just before it moves. This is your backlash. Mine is set to 8 units. My HWFM and HDR values are just around 1.3 wasn't acheivable before by hand. Looks great on my scope (white). Would look great on black scope too, but not sure about bright red on blue or orange (Old Celestron). A worthy addition to my setup that now I can not live without. Go for it! I left you some pictures... Kindest regards David
  21. Thanks Wim for that. You can see its like day and night compared to the one without darks. You have even got some of the black nebulae out from it even with only 2.2 hours of data. Not sure what to try next. I think its expreminent with gain next. Raising the from 1 Min to 3 Min exsposures will help bring a sharper and more detailed image as my tracking is good. Plus my Focul reducer/Flatterner will improve things. I also took 3 minute dark frames today while I did the 60 second ones Not sure what the white foggy stuff is? Did you set the black levels and grey and white levels? I know its zoomed in alot so will show a lot more noise and imperfections. Looking forward to any tips you may have. Thanks David
  22. I just finally spent out and bought https://www.365astronomy.com/ts-optics-photoline-2-0.79x-4-element-reducer-and-field-flattener-corrector-for-astrophotography.html Cheaper than Pixinsight I did speak to my friend Zoltan there and he said I may be getting Vigneting because of the backspace 2 inch going to a 1.25 cone and into back of my scope. Thats the adapters that came with my filter wheel and camera. So not only will this fix that but is a matched flattener for my scope and 0.79 reducer. So the Flattener should stop the elongated stars at the far left and right of my shots. Also the Reducer will lose 20% of my size because of the reduction of focal length but will gain x1.6 exposure time. Turning my F6.5 to a F5.13 I am away all of next week so I will keep you updated somewhere on this forum with the results Would be nice to compare the new data with the old if you get 10 minutes. Have a good weekend. Regards David
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