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Prolifics

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Everything posted by Prolifics

  1. Just had another play maybe too much but I think I have more colour
  2. Thanks for the info. I will try longer exposure again. Having huge problems with all these Elon Musk satellites wizzing across my frames so thats why I shortened them. I am wondering how to get more colour in photshop do I increase the saturation?
  3. Unforunately I don't have the expertise to post process. It a little dull. I think the data is ok though.
  4. Just a quick 20 minute post process in photshop. 50 x 45 second Lum 30 x 60 second Red 30 x 60 second Green 30 x 60 second Blue Gain 75 Offset 15
  5. Thanks for the reply. That makes sense. I shortened it by 0.5mm and it made it worse. I need to put that spacer back on and add another Thanks for the help.
  6. Hi here is an example of where my elongated stars are from the direction they are going can you tell if I need to shorten or lengthen the back space? Cheers David
  7. Yes I am hoping so. As soon as I get a few hours of clear skies I will restest with a short 20 second exposure to eliminate star trailing. Hopefully it will be better.
  8. Hi I have uploaded my highest scoring Lum file from a couple of nights ago. There is some funny star shaped in it especially around the edges. I am using A TS 107 Triplet with a 2 inch TS optics 0.79 focal reducer. EFW filterwheel and a Zwo asi1600mm pro Cmos camera. By using the the adapters and adding them all up I get 56mm backfocus. According to this chart from TS Optics I need an extra 1mm. Information from them here.... Back Focus - distances from the T2-thread to the camera sensor depends on the focal length of the telescope: ♦ Focal Length to 350 mm .... 70 mm ♦ Focal Length to 420 mm .... 65 mm ♦ Focal Length 450-500 mm ... 61 mm ♦ Focal Length 510-600 mm ... 58 mm ♦ Focal Length 610-700 mm ... 57 mm ♦ Focal Length 710-790 mm ... 56 mm ♦ Focal Length from 800 mm .. 55 mm My scope is 700mm So I am rigth on the end of one of those calculations. Today I stripped everything down and checked everythintg. I was using a 1.2mm washer to get the extra 1mm distance but the washer was a hard plastic type and when I measured the gap it was more than 2mm. I managed to find some soft type washers in my old ZWO box remove the old one and put a thinner one in which is giving me around 0.9mm gap. Giving me a total of 56.9mm. Instead of 58.1mm Do you think that should fix the problem? Can 1.2mm out make my stars look like this or have I got another problem. Not had chance to take the scope out to test the new configuration due to the usual clouds. Any help would be great. Single frame is of M3. Thank you for any help in advance. 2020-05-20_00-25-06_Lum_-20.00_60.00s_0018.fits
  9. It's all looking good! I appreciate the time you have put into this. Thank you for that. It was all about producing better and better images which has happened. But perfecting each thing you do is very time consuming This is why this hobby is so fantastic. I need to spend more time watching whats going on rather then spend lots of time setting up and then leaving it on a plan for several hours doing nothing. David
  10. At least we know they are not par focal all same manufacturer . Blue was taken last and would have been coldest part of the night probably 3c less than when Lum was taken. Order Lum R G B David
  11. my scope is F6.5 or F5.13 with the focal reducer. I have the Pegusus power box so the dew heaters come on and off automatically when the due point gets near the temperature point. That would make a difference if the tube was getting slightly warmer by .5c would expand the tube? Maybe having the due heaters on all the time would be better when its cold outside? Regards David
  12. Yes looked at 5 frames from each filter and nothing. Maybe your correct in temperature change. I will however in future refocus every filter to stop this issue. David
  13. Great all understood! I have had a look at all my frames and I do not see any out of focused doughnut stars. Maybe deepskystacker was the culprit? The HFD is between 0.50 and 1.37 for the whole starfield. Here is a sample of a frame. Regards David
  14. Thanks Dave for your version it's very interesting seeing the subtle differences between versions. I may have another go myself later and see what I come up with Regards David
  15. Now that I done a bit of research. When I make my flat plans at the end of the session, I can use them again with the cap on the scope to take the dark/flats in a different directory as they will be named the same. Then just add them to deepsky stacker when stacking? Cheers David
  16. Hi Red Dwarf Thank you for all the information. I have taken in everything you have said and that all makes perfects sense. I guess that means all my RGB filters must be Par focal and my LUM not matching with them? Next time I will refocus for each filter that I use. I will try next outing to re-focus and use the magnifier in apt on the stars to make sure there is no circles and make sure they are solid and round not fuzzy. I am a bit confused with flat darks are these bias files? I will do a google search and research the flat/darks. I am really happy you brought these points up. This will make me move further forward in the right direction. I am quite new to Astro photography this is my 5th image. Althought I have been into astronmy for 4 decades So better focus and dark/flats next on the menu for me You have done a great job on the image can hardly wait for the colour version KIndest regards David
  17. Hi Carole thank you for doing that I will take a look online for some tutorials. I am using cc 2018 PS. I also bought some actions. Kindest regards David
  18. Thanks again Geoff for the heads up. there is no way I can afford Pixinsight at the moment and it's probably harder to use than PS I will post a final image if I get one in here. Thanks again David
  19. Hi Geoff wow you don't messaround Not too hot with Photshop I coverted the files to 16 bit and then applied deep space noise reduction. Adjusted levels and curves bit by bit and then added a new layer and copied the RGB over and then added the LUm channel next to the background and adjusted to luminosity. Thats about as far as I got. Unfortunately I had some sort of image that I wasn't very happy with so quit photoshop. I really need to go on a course or something for post processing. Regards David
  20. I took 60s x 90 Lum 120s x 20 RG&B 50 Flats & 50 Darks I have stacked the L R G and B data in deepsky stacker along with the darks and flats. But I don't seem to be getting much from the data via photoshop. I am wondering if the data was any good? Bortle 5 sky, good seeing and guiding was excellent last night. Files are located here https://www.dropbox.com/sh/rzkkbbbokj5fqei/AAAR-Jfsyvd3_6gDr3qGCyhwa?dl=0 if you fancy a play and can get anything with it. Kindest regards in advance David
  21. Hi I use eqascom (eqmod) and APTEverything was working fine last time I set up. However when I slew to say Polaris it's not in APT live view window the RA is always 3.5 more on APT and EQmod then on the plate Solve coordinates. It will not synch either comes up with cannot syncg to coordinates exception occured. Using Astap here is the screen with Polaris centered. Platesolv RA and Dec is correct but APT and EQmod althought the same are not. Using Eq6 Pro and tried the hand controller and the direct Lynx astro cable and they are botht he same so ruels the cable out. Screen for reference. Ignore the ghosting in middle this is actually a large antenna in the way
  22. Hi Alan thanks so much for doing that for me. It was the first time I used my scope with the focal reducer. I think stars are fairly round now. Use to be elongated near the edges. Like I said flats didn't come out right on the night was very tired from 4.5 hours of data I tried taking the flats 3 weeks later and I think the issue with the fluffy bits is the reason. Not sure about the RGB data. Not sure why deep sky stacker does not align properly its like a little bit off any settings you recommend to fix that. I use one of the LUM lights best score for the Reference frame as i shot either side of the Meridian and I don't have a rotator installed. Kindest regards David
  23. OMG thats amazing you can really see the detail even in the little galaxy in the north west of picture. So at least my stacking is fine First thing I do in photshop is convert them all to 16 bit. LRGB Then I level and curve adjust them all several times until I get better details. Make a new layer and copy and paste the RGB data Then I add the lum to the same layer. Thats about as far as I got sometimes I play with saturation on the RGB too. Kindest regards David
  24. Yes 50 flats for each Filter 60 darks Had to take the flats again 2 weeks after which has caused some problems.
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