fifeskies

I have used the Baader cleaning kit (wonder fluid and microfibre cloth) to clean such marks off my objectives.

Make sure there is nothing on the cloth (I keep mine in a resealable pouch), and spray some fluid on the cloth not the lens , then polish gently until the fluid evaporates away, seems to remove them easily.

The Evostar 72 has only a 420mm focal length and would not usually be fitted with an OAG, but you possibly could do.

They are nice wide imaging scopes for DSLR use  (I use my 600D on an 80mm ED).

the ZWO 120 will work well as a guide camera (I use its brother the ZWO 290)

Any small guider/finder will allow you to get good images on your EQ5 pro , I use a 2nd hand ST80 but there are smaller options that will be fine. You will probably need some extension rings to get the guide camera to focus if its not a dedicated guidescope.

SVbony do a range of cheap but good quality guidescopes.

This can piggyback on the Evostar , the guider does not need to exactly align with the main scope so adjustment rings are not a must have , though I fitted them to my ST80.

You would end up with something similar to the photo below.

Planets will show significant Chromatic Aberration  (CA) in the basic Evostar telescope.

A smaller aperture ED DS-Pro is by far the better option, CA is significantly reduced and the rainbow effect is all but removed.

Below is Venus in the basic Evostar 150 (I used to own one) , it was better suited to DSO where the far less bright targets did not suffer the same CA issues.

1 hour ago, Mamm7215 said:

 I have to ask, what’s the 2nd indentation for.  It gets halfway out or so and the first lock holes set. Then you pull it out a bit for to fully extend it, why the 1st set of indents, is it to reduce the focal range?

I suspect that one of the indents is to allow use with a camera that needs more backfocus than you need with an eyepiece , but I have not used one of these so can't be certain about that.

If it is only halfway though that sounds like its probably more than this would need.

The ED120 is 900mm focal length , the ED80 is 600mm , so there is not a lot of gain in the step up as regards narrower field of view with the same camera.

The ED120 is a fine scope however

Use the simulation capabilities of the below link to see what you will get with a given scope and a given camera to make your decision.

astronomy.tools

use the imaging mode and choose your target and camera to try a set of telescopes to see what you would be best to go for.

Are you planning to use a computer to control the mount?

APT the free software , can make running exposures much easier. (works very well with my EOS)

You will need the correct adapter cable for mount to computer (I don't think one is included with the kit).

How big is the error in the pointing accuracy. (full moon is 30 seconds wide)?

If it is a relatively small error , it may be down to using the J2000 co-ordinate system , while clearly in the sky you are setting to the current co-ordinates.

When you click on a target Stellarium will give both sets in the object description. (if they are both selected in the options)

A small offset may be showing the difference between the two.

(I think there is a setting somewhere to choose which co-ordinate system Stellarium uses)

Also you should be able to align the mount axis and the telescope axis by small adjustments to the mounting screws at the dovetail, loosen and nudge then retighten. Better quality dovetails have less wiggle error.

8 minutes ago, Daf1983 said:

Thanks again for the input! My only worry with using the 80ed without a focal reducer, is that it would be too slow, especially as I won't be guiding to begin with. 

You can select plenty bright targets to get used to the whole process, where the slower scope wont be such a problem.

Orion Nebula , Pleiades , M31 Andromeda , North America Nebula , all should be good starter targets., as well as some globular clusters , and don't forget some Lunar imaging as well.

Also recommend the free APT software and DSS to stack lots of shorter exposures and so get long "integrated" times.

Free and there are plenty good tutorials on using them , also free GIMP for stretching the final results to bring out the DSO targets.

I did start with the advantage of the Faster Equinox version of the ED80 and bought it 2nd hand with the 0.8 TV reducer/flattener in the pack , so it was a lucky find for my first imaging scope.

15 minutes ago, Daf1983 said:

Thanks for that, I've seen a few people use the altair ff/fr also. Am I right on assuming that any field flattener will work as long as it matches the specs of the scope?

The TV one suits any scope of 400-600 according to the box , but I had seen it recommended may times for the ED80.

It is 0.8 so gives a big advantage reducing my Equinox version of the Skywatcher ED80 to 400mm (from its 500mm native) and speeds it up to F5.

Just see what other's think of any reducer you consider.

Don't worry about a reducer at first , you may get some edge coma but when starting out there is a lot to learn before worrying about all the bells and whistles. You can get some nice images (and can crop if you think the edge is bad).

Another ED80 pic below , North America Nebula , also from my unguided days and only 90 sec exposure time.

Its nice and bright so you don't need as long as with the fainter targets

3 minutes ago, Daf1983 said:

 

What field flattener due you use with the 80ed? The main thing that's putting me off is the skywatcher ff/fr is about £180, 

I bought my Televue reducer flattener second hand (TRF-2008) , they come up fairly often and was a fair bit less than the dedicated one new.

An ED80 is a very good all rounder and not too demanding on the mount.

I do use a reducer/flattener with mine so enjoy the slightly faster response , and I do guide, but both these "extras" can be seen as your upgrade path.

Before guiding I found 90 sec to be the limit depending on how close I was to the zenith. Lower objects track faster.

With guiding I take 8 min exposures now.

Here is an "unguided" M31 image from my ED80, back when I was just starting out (90 sec exposures).

It is all relative , how many hours clear counts as a good night, at least 2 hours clear sky is worth going out for.

I am fortunate enough to have a ROR shed so can be imaging within 5 minutes which means I can quickly take advantage of brief clear spells.

10 nights imaging in the October to Dec part of the winter only under no Moon (but missed a few during the xmas period)

Just counting January this year , I have had 6 nights with at least 2 hours clear sky , but only 1 long frosty clear night.

(2 of those nights were under bright Moon , but I did some narrowband (Ha) imaging which blocks out the moonglow.)

So not exactly the conditions in the better parts of the world , but not hopeless either.

I would say 2 times at least a month under dark skies if we use the at least 2 hr criteria (and another 2 under bright moon for narrowband or just enjoying the Moon itself)

About once a week or so there is at least a 2 hr window , but only about 1 night a month of clear all night.

for 1.25" you need this and the T ring happy cat linked to

they fit together and allow you to use the camera just like an eyepiece

Astro Essentials 1.25" T Mount Camera Nosepiece Adapter | First Light Optics

Depending on which dob you have , you may need to add or remove spacers in the focus tube to get the camera to focus correctly without the focus tube being too far inside the dob , many dobs include these adapters by default. 

13 minutes ago, Brownthunder93 said:

Unfortunately, I am unable to pick up an ED scope for sub £100 like I can with the evostar, because obviously that would be the goal 😂

The benefits of the smaller aperture for imaging still apply for the Evostar series , the 120 is a bigger heavier scope and you will most likely get better images using an 80mm.

Much less wobble on a EQ5 with the 80mm, and wobble really ruins images.

The smaller aperture is also less bothered by poor seeing.

I used to have an Evostar 150 , and while it was good for visual , I never got good imaging results from it.

Narrowband filters will help you cope with the CA that is present on the Evostar series.

They are a very budget friendly way into the hobby.

First ever time trying some Ha photography under bright moonlight.

Horsehead Nebula , 23 x 480 sec exposures Canon astromodified D600 , Astronomik 12nm Ha filter

You do not need large aperture for imaging DSO, 72mm or 80mm is plenty and that may mean you can afford a decent used ED 2nd hand scope.

Large objects like M31 also need the wide field of view these scopes have to get it all into a single frame.

It reduces the demands on tracking as well so you will probably get better results than the longer heavier 120mm.

Below are images taken with an 80mm scope

Just a single shot of the Moon , taken quickly during a short clear break in the clouds that are scurrying by in a fresh breeze.

Nice and high so a sharp view.

At 21 seconds past 9.21pm tonight it will be :-

the 21st second of the 21st minute, of the 21st hour, of the 21st day, of the 21st year, of the 21st century !

this would work , though perhaps a smaller version.

Opening and closing the Red n' Blue Observatory - YouTube

I will be very interested to see how you get on with this.

I have a couple of EOS clip filters (for my 600D) so if they do in fact work I could use a 2" adapter with my other camera.

They are sold on the RVO site in UK but don't seem to have any reviews.

Astronomik 2" M48 To EOS Clip Filter Adaptor - Rother Valley Optics Ltd

There is a link where EOS clip filters were used in a filter wheel (with a DIY 3D print adapter)

Astronomik EOS Clip-Filter to 2" adapter - DIY Astronomer - Stargazers Lounge

but I can;t find much else about how well they may work.

14 minutes ago, Spacecake2 said:

I don't know if you will reply but with my celestron 127slt you can see star trailing at 10 second exposure times! so how did you get it to not slip? 🤔

I would have thought you should be able to go beyond 10 second exposures with this mount.

Have you made sure you have selected "sidereal" as the tracking rate, if lunar or solar are selected it will make stars trail.

Maksotov telescopes do have a long focal length however and for photography are more suited to an EQ mount for long exposures

On 19/01/2021 at 17:40, jacko61 said:

Thanks for that. Very interesting read. All sets of threads measure at 24 TPI with my gauge so I'm not sure what's going on. The Baader website states a 2" -24 thread on the clicklock, the celestron thread is 2" -24 and the meade  has a standard male 2"-24 sct thread on one side and a standard sct female thread on the other so there shouldn't be an issue with the fit. 

That does sound strange as they should be just connecting if that is the case, perhaps one of the elements has been stressed out of being exactly circular and is very slightly oval.

If you want to try some "thread lubricant" graphite powder might be worth a try , only use a touch however.

RS PRO Lubricant 50 g Graphite | RS Components (rs-online.com)

I have not used this myself but have chatted to others who use it for camera screw fit lenses and say it works well as long as you are very frugal with it.

I have just obtained a Ha narrowband filter. Initially I will be looking at making some monochrome images from the data.

I would also like to add this to OSC images from my Canon 600D , taking OSC of the target when there is no Moon around, then around the 10 days of so at full moon I will add in the Ha filter so I can continue to image despite bright moonlit skies.  With so few clear nights in damp cloudy Scotland , I wanted to not waste clear nights when the moon is up.

I have been using GIMP to process my OSC output after stacking in DSS, but am a total novice when it comes to how I should add in Ha data to the composition.

Does anyone have any recommendations for combining Ha and OSC (in GIMP)

2 minutes ago, vlaiv said:

Can't help much there - I have not done it myself so don't have workflow in place.

Thanks anyway

I will probably start just by making some mono images from the Ha data , these can be quite striking from others I have seen posted on the forum.