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fifeskies

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Posts posted by fifeskies

  1. Thanks once again to FLO

    A Baader low profile 1.25 to 2 inch adapter.

    (this has a slim 1mm deep shoulder)

    These actually have 3 plastic screws around the circumference as well as the grub screw lock for permanent mounting.

    (the thumbscrew can be removed when used in this way)

     

    Needed this as one of my scopes did not have enough in-travel for my Delos 14 when used with a 2 inch WO diagonal

    (using the reducer supplied with the diagonal) Shoulder on most reducers is around 8 to 10mm.

     

    All solved now

     

     

    Baader reducer for Delos 14.jpeg

    • Like 7
  2. try out this handy simulator

    Telescope Simulator - Stelvision

    Visually galaxies are nothing like the photos we all see examples of all the time. To the first time viewer they can be very underwhelming

     

    That said even small scopes have nice views of some brighter objects . Pleiades and Orion Nebula as 2 good examples. 

    But it is best to take a look at what any instrument can do before you purchase it.

     

    In particular try out a typical 3 inch (refractor) view compared to a relatively cheap 6 inch Dobsonian view.

    There is a good reason many start out the hobby with a Dobsonian, easy to use and not too big.

     

     

  3. See the source image

     

    Just to help clarify, as far as I understand it not having used this unit.

    The focus controller is powered by 12v standard input

    buttons on the unit allow you to drive the motor in or out

     

    The USB connection is for PC control

     

    from web

    when connected to a PC via USB2.0 that HitecDCFocus comes into its own.  Our specially written software provides exquisite control over your focus motor.  The minutest of focus motion can be acheived by adjusting the parameters of our software to your needs.

     

     

    1.jpg

  4. 10 minutes ago, Altocumulus said:

    Forget the wedge - likely unsuitable for your type of 'scope. Stick with the filter.....

    Yes don't use Herschel with an SCT, or any mirror type scope , read too quickly to notice you were using an SCT.

    Only really to be used with refractors, and even then some (eg 4 lens types) are not suitable.

  5. I use a heated dew strap laid out flat on my observing desk and just sit them on it when not in use if it is a very dewey night.

    Just needs a gentle heat to help keep them clear, at least for a while. (and under some sort of box cover, like a sideways storage box)

    On cold high humidity nights cold eyepiece and warm breath can be a nuisance, keeping them slightly warm does help to prevent this.

     

    A hot water bottle in the bottom of a tray to warm them also works.

    • Like 1
  6. as mentioned above , with my D600  and Ha narrowband filter , I just knock the ISO all the way up to platesolve my target

    sometimes takes a fairly long exposure as well to get enough good stars for it, especially with my longer focus scopes.

    Once on target then run at the more usual ISO

    Guiding should keep you spot on target.

     

     

  7. Just to note ,

    the bar does not include the socket head screws you will need to fit the tapped holes on the base of the foot.

    I got mine from eBay , I think they are  1/4 UNC stainless steel , length I needed was 5/8th (i.e. depth of thread)

    But check what thread is in your Z71 foot , it may not be the same.

     

    It is useful to get a few different sizes of socket head screws , I have a selection 1/2 inch,  5/8th , 3/4 , and 1 inch to suit different purposes.

    so there is (almost) always one available in the parts box when needed.

    1/4 UNC is the standard size for most William Optics needs.

     

    Other brands tend to use metric 6mm versions, I also have a selection in that format for my other scopes.

     

    I used a 1 inch long socket screw and lock nut to make the anti slide out safety stop, though you can use anything you have to fit this as it is not a threaded hole.

    • Thanks 1
  8. I have a Z61 but think it is broadly the same.

    You can add a matched WO bar, this has holes for the small shoe (foot) supplied to line up with.

    Makes it much easier to use and find balance

     

    the longer bar also lets you fit an anti slide out stop to the top end

    (just a longer bolt with a lock nut and spacer, this hits the jaws and prevents it sliding further down))

     

    William Optics DSD 245 Plate | First Light Optics

     

    Image6.jpg

    Image7.jpg

    z61 upgraded bar.jpg

  9. Difficult to have a rule of thumb that is so dependant on ambient temp and humidity level.

    A cold damp autumn night and you will need to throw in plenty power or risk losing the struggle to keep clear views.

    A warm summer evening and you may get away without it turned on.

    Also what works at 10pm may not manage at 4am as mist forms when a weather front approaches.

     

    I tend to be generous to make sure I avoid any misting when on mains, but you don't want to overheat and create thermal eddies.

     

    If running from battery start lower and check after a while and judge if it is enough.

     

    There are some complex control systems that adjust level as temp and humidity sensors send data back , it might seem that is going beyond what is needed most of the time but it will ultimately give the best performance.

  10. With the type of anchor you are using I would think 200mm would be best (and certainly no less then 150mm)

    It will depend in part what you are putting on the pier , a 12 inch newt with a 4 inch refractor guider and a couple of cameras on an EQ8 grade mount will need a better fixing then a single 80mm refractor being used visually on a small mount.

    As always plan for the worst case scenario , we always end up upgrading our kit to bigger and better.

     

    My Altair pier has 300mm cemented in J bolts.

  11. 14 hours ago, Mike Read said:

    Thank you. Where do you purchase the bolt from ? 

    Got the bolt from eBay, I am fairly sure it is 12mm but maybe check that.  

    They are available in a range of lengths.

    I used a long regular bolt and marked where it needed to "shoulder" against the underside of the plate. I then ordered the bolt just short of that length to make sure it both nestled up against the plate but had plenty thread inside the casing.

    Handwheel allows you to get it nice and tight with minimal effort.

    Was fairly cheap as I recall.

    Image1.jpg

  12. I have a pier mounted EQ6-R , though on the Altair Astro pier with the correct CNC adapter plate.

    I purchased a long thread handwheel bolt to hold the mount onto the CNC puck after bolting it to the pier, but with the Altair pier you can get your hand under the squirrel cage to adjust the bolt.

    Image1.jpg

  13. For once a very cheap bargain (eBay).  Moonfish 30mm 80 degree eyepiece.

    In my recently obtained Zenithstar 61 this has an astounding 6.67 degree view, so basically it can be used as a finder.

    Seen mixed reviews of these and the clones of it, but this (genuine) one is nice and sharp even out to the edges

    (and I can use it with my glasses on so the eye relief is pretty good.)

    At x12 magnification in the Z61 it is great for just looking about the night sky , and even doubles up as a birdwatching scope for the birds on my garden feeder.

     

     

    Moonfish 2021_08_19.jpg

    • Like 12
  14. 20 minutes ago, badhex said:

    Lovely! Does the ZS61 take 2" EPs? Or will you primarily be using it for AP?

    It does indeed take 2 inch fittings , nice compression ring holder with 3 point clamping, I will be using a William Optics 2 inch Diagonal with it.

    it also has a very high quality 2 inch to 1 1/4 adapter, handy for using as a guider with ZWO mini style cameras.

    (will be using it for both visual and AP)

     

     

    20210817_132637.jpg

    20210817_132656.jpg

    • Like 2
  15. At best the dial is a guide.

    You need to use an accurate method to polar align.

    Sharpcap Pro works well, or a polemaster if you are imaging.

    For visual it is far less critical unless you have a very long focal length.

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