Rustang

Just stunning! 👏👏

1 hour ago, Clarkey said:

Strangely I had exactly the same issue a couple of days ago with my 600D. Normally I stack and start my processing in APP but as I was having some banding and noise issues I decided to try DSS for a change. As is only normally use DSS my settings were probably wrong and the hot pixels were not removed properly. When I used a denoise algorithm is did exactly this. I went back and stacked correctly and all was good again. FWIW I used to use DSS but I have found APP much better (but slower). However, it's not free!

 

Yeah I used up my trails of APP so I'm going to need to buy it one day, maybe it's time now! 

Lovely image, 👍

6 minutes ago, bottletopburly said:

id try 4 

Thanks. Are you thinking the dither settings could be the issue then? I ticked the 'detect and clean remaining hot pixels' in DSS and set it to 1px, it appeared to remove the problem, I can't see that it has caused anything but I'm hoping it won't cause any other issues in the stacked file. 

8 minutes ago, bottletopburly said:

Apt dither of 4 and phd2 dither scale of 1 will give you a dither of 18 pixels , apt dither of 3 will give you a dither of 13 pixels .

Il double check what its set to in both programs but I'm pretty I'm set to the right settings for my DSLR. Which would you recommend though? I spent some time looking into this and thought I had it sorted and could tick that part off, we will see! 

4 minutes ago, bottletopburly said:

What teescope fl or lens fl 

SW 80ed 600mm fl

2 minutes ago, bottletopburly said:

Out of interest what camera /scope  guide camera /guide scope are you using 

A modified Canon 600D, ZWO ASI 120 colour guide cam and Atair 60mm guide scope

Ok, so far in regards to the data I have been tryng to stack, I played around with DSS and results so far - Dark's added from another night - didnt work!. What has worked is going into - Register settings -parameters - cosmetic and ticking 'Detect and clean remaining Hot pixels' I set this to 1px as 2px did something to the stars! 1px seemed to reduce the amount of stars in the final stack but i didn't noticed any other issues with the tiff so I'm guessing its ok to do this?

7 minutes ago, wxsatuser said:

Try updating the bad pixel list.

Let the camera reach ambient.
Put it in manual mode.
Chose sensor cleaning, second yellow spanner menu.
Chose clean now.
It will do a clean and you should hear the shutter.
Wait till the clean now highlights again.
Then turn off

The bad pixel list should be updated and RAW convertors should discard these pixels.

Thanks for that, i will give it a try! 👍

14 minutes ago, bottletopburly said:

Try dithering in spiral movements in phd2 settings assuming your doing it that way

Il check what its set to, cheers 👍

8 minutes ago, bottletopburly said:

How many pixels are you dithering, what program are you using to dither

 

Apt for camera control, I can't remember the dither settings but I'm pretty sure they are set big enough for what a DSLR needs, I've not had this issue until now though and I've been dithering for a few sessions with out this issue! 

8 minutes ago, Jamgood said:

Have you got some old Dark files you can calibrate with to see if it removes the walking pixels?

I still use Darks even though I dither after every shot. I find images look better with than without them.

Yeah it's worth a try, they won't be at correct temperature though. I'll also have a look at the settings in DSS and have a play around. This hobby really gets you banging your head against the wall, 1step forward and 2 steps back! 

25 minutes ago, bottletopburly said:

You have walking noise you need to dither between frames to eliminate , Startools can help with images showing walking noise 

https://www.startools.org/modules/denoise

The thing is, I did dither! I've been looking into it and found the same result, that it's walking noise, well walking hot pixels actually! So if I'm dithering, what else can cause it and can it be removed from the subs I've already got with a certain setting in DDS!?. I don't take darks now because I dither. 

Il look again, if they are then could that be a camera issue? Which I bloody hope not! 

2 minutes ago, tooth_dr said:

Stacking with sigma clipping will probably remove them.

All settings are already on Kappa-sigma-clipping. Ive not changed any settings from when the stacking was working before either.

Does anyone know what could be causing the coloured "pixels" in the stacked Tiff from DDS? Camera files are from a Modified Canon 600D.

They are not present in the Subs from what I can see. Ive done some stack tests and they are coming through even with just stacking the Lights so no Bia's, dark's or flat's. Ive not changed any settings from before.

8 hours ago, Daf1983 said:

Thanks for this. I thinks this is the route I'm going to take, what length dew band did you get for the 80ed?

The one pictured is the one I got, run it on the full heater setting (don't bother with low or medium) which will feel warm to the hand when on. I've had them on a while now and they appear to be doing their job as I've not had any dew!

8 hours ago, Daf1983 said:

Thanks for this. I thinks this is the route I'm going to take, what length dew band did you get for the 80ed?

They come in just one length from memory, il double check but what ever length it came in, fitted perfectly. I used the same one on the guide scope and just rapped it round over itself, keeps it nice and warm. So far no dew so that says to me they are working 👍

I've got the below dew heater off Amazon with its own controller built in, its been working a treat on my SW80 ED. Just plug the USB end into a phone charger plug then straight into the mains. I actually use two, one on my guide scope as well! 👍

4 hours ago, NGC 1502 said:

Sounds like a good idea to me.  Selling the 72mm & 80mm will raise funds to offset buying the 90mm. If you’re able to, perhaps buy the 90mm before selling your 2 current scopes, to make certain you like the new one.....

Hope it works out for you 👍

Ed.

Yeah your 100% right in that I would not sell the other scopes without testing and being happy with the TS 90mm first. For me its about combining the two scopes that I currently have into one, hopefully get better optics, and in saying that I'm not expecting a mind blowing change but a future proof scope for when I move onto either a dedicated mono or OSC (hopefully later this year). I fully appreciate that with my current Camera (Canon 600D modified) not to expect a change in the quality on my images as such. I was hoping those experienced with using the TS optics 90mm for AP to share their experiences, I know there must be some using it out there! 

1 hour ago, Stuf1978 said:

I use an clip in L-eNhance with a modded 450D and I'm pretty happy with the results I'm getting and don't have any issues focussing etc.  and I'll hopefully be moving to  cooled OSC and L-eXtreme later in the year. I was considering buying the 2" L-eXtreme before the OSC as it'll fit quite happily in both my V1.5 Redcat and ED72 with OVL Flattener. The only gripe I have with these filters is that they make most nebulae just look red and kill a lot of the subtle colours often seen. Star colour is also ruined as well as reflective parts of certain nebula like M42 as @michael.h.f.wilkinson pointed out above. However these issues are easily sorted by throwing some broadband data into the mix

 

Your definitely right, they certainly have their draw backs in terms of colour. I think there's always a compromise with every aspect of this hobby

1 minute ago, Gerr said:

Yes I like that one. Lovely refractor wide field. Like I said - my viewing conditions were poor (even high cloud to get through). I enclose a sub for you to look at. I had 30 of this to stack and make something of - quite a challenge. This is one nebula I have yet to do proper justice on but better an attempt than no attempt at all.

Gerr.

It's lots of trial and error in this game, maybe your seeing was just to hard on the target at the time. Keep at it 👍

12 minutes ago, Gerr said:

I use the Optolong L-enHance as part of my imaging train and Canon 650D modded DSLR. I have no problems focusing on stars and get nice diffraction spikes with Bahtinov mask. I think its a good filter that allows for nebula imaging no matter the state of the moon. Below is the horse head taken with the moon waxed at 90% and poor atmospheric seeing conditions (I live in Bortle 5/6 skies too). About 1 hr of 2minute subs (ISO 1600). The other image is Pacman under better seeing conditions and 40% waxing moon - 2hrs worth  of 3-4 minute subs (ISO 1600).

Gerr.

 

I'm surprised you didn't get some more details out of the Horsehead Neb even with the conditions. This is one of mine using the L enhance with my 600d in bortel 6 skies

16 minutes ago, michael.h.f.wilkinson said:

I also have an L-eNhance (1.25" rather than 2") which clearly creates a brighter background and brighter stars. Note that the California Nebula was imaged with a 85% moon quite close by. 

The main thing is that if your happy with the results then it's all good, they are nice images. I just personally can't see any difference for the cost over the L - enhance  and I think that's because of our age and type of camera 👍

I've been reading up today of what possible future scopes and cameras that I may move onto for astrophotophotography later this year. In regards to scopes, one of my possibilities is the TS optics photo line 80mm f6 triplet. I currently have the SW80 and 72mm ED DS Pro. With regards to the 80mm, I like the 600mm fl which I can make wider and faster if I won't to, because of that I hardly now use the 72mm. I've contacted a guy today in regards to a TS optics 90mm f6.6 600mm triplet super Apro and would like to know your experienced thoughts on if it would be a good/right move to sell the SW80 and 72mm and have the TS 90mm as my only scope? And look to get a reducer if my current one is not compatible. From what I've read they appear to be pretty good, I already have a reducer which I'm hoping will still be compatible with the TS scope as at this time I wouldn't won't to spend out on lots of other needed parts if I can help it so kind of hoping it will be a pretty straight forwards transition of scopes! Both of my current scopes are great so it needs to be the right move.