Rustang

16 minutes ago, Simon Pepper said:

OSC it is then I reckon! Next question as OP has stated which one lol. I’m leaning towards the 294 because of FOV and lower amp glow compared to 183. Also not convinced in the square FOV from 533. Not sure like OP I can justify going up to the 071 or 2600 plus FOV with these are much greater which is not what I want...

I like my Polaroid SX-70 photographs but I'm not a fan of square astro images! I would rather the choice to crop! Amp glow can be taken care of with the correct calibration frames apparently. Weigh up what your budget is, check a few technical details incase there's something important you need to consider then just choose one. I dont think you will be upset with any of the choices. Look at a few images on ASTROBIN also to get a feel for things. If I go OSC i will probably get the 294 and get an L-extreme flter, mono will be a tricky decision because there's more you need to buy.

54 minutes ago, Simon Pepper said:

I have the same problem which camera to buy mono or OSC and I am eyeing up ZWO range as well! I like Rustang’s comment here about spending more and not necessarily getting more I think that’s a true point and wondering now if I need to spend more for a dedicated camera or not! My DSLR has got noise issues but I can get most of these out in post and I am still happy with the images. Having said that I think if it were me I would buy a new scope and a camera instead of the 2600 only. I still have the issue of mono or OSC though...

 

Dont worry, alot of people are going through that same dilemma, including me! 😄 Mono - more time, faff and money for probably better images but better how!? Is it a personal choice on whats "better" !? details gained, correct colour's etc etc? Mono will require alot more dedication to gain the data needed for that style of imaging, OSC much more straight forward to still get some cracking images so how much time you are you willing to dedicate to your images, do you wont a project taking time over a few nights with a "better" result at the end or a still a really decent image in just one night!? This means personal circumstances and choices also play a big part in the whole Mono or OSC decision. Whether its street photography, photographing animals etc, or astrophotography its all a form of 'art' to a point so first and for most get what you wont out of it it terms of what you wont to achieve then choose wisely on what can improve it.

There's all the equipment compatibility etc, choice of field of view etc etc that needs considering but from a spending point of view here's my thoughts. I think there is a certain situation with this hobby were spending more doesn't necessarily give you more. If you have the money sitting around then I guess you could just buy what ever it is, you have the best, your set for a long time, job done! There is a certain point to buying well first so you don't lose money etc but there's another side to that. If your like me, you dont have a lot of spare cash then you see things differently. I've been looking around at scope's and dedicated cameras myself recently and it also has got me thinking alot. Ive been seeing a few nice looking scopes come up second hand for a price i could probably afford but double the cost of my current, in theory they should be better but when i actually look into it, there's a good chance there are not going to give me anything better and they still come with their own issues. Ive seen some stunning images with my current SW80 ED DS PRO and a dedicated camera, some recent examples from two different people with the AS11600mm so not even one of the top models!, so why when I'm looking to get a dedicated camera would I need to change my scope right now!? In regards to your situation with choice of camera, the 294 will probably be more than enough, I dont know all the tiny in's and out's of these cameras so I cant speak on a technical level but from what Ive seen and read it appears to be an awesome camera. Not having money to throw at this hobby means Ive worked with what I have, and had alot of frustration but also satisfaction out of that. I've had to work my DSLR really hard to get my recent images, DSLR's come with their issues/quirks which need work and still show in images but with what Ive been producing recently shows what they are capable of. It's also down to the user, no offense to anyone but Ive seen some terrible images recently with people using these great dedicated cameras so from that aspect, its also going to be alot to do with what you put in not just having the latest, best camera!. I hope you kind of get what I mean by all that. Most of the time its down to how you feel about your images, how they can be improved and what it's going to take to do so. I personally try not to get too involved in all the tiny details, perfect stars in the corners, colour's of stars etc  at the moment but that's me, depending on how critical you wont to be with your astrophotography will also sway your decision making on new equipment.

Some lovely details there 👍

13 minutes ago, alacant said:

I've only tried a zoom once; a 75-300mm which came as part of the 700d bundle. It's ok as a daytime lens but no good for astrophotography. Well, not with me in charge of it that is. 

We've just posted an example with a fixed 135mm lens. They can be picked up cheaply and I can recommend this as a possible route into what you want to achieve. It also makes your apt profiles manageable.

HTH

Yeah saw that, turned out well. Certainly an option as I can't afford the Samyang! I was after a cheap bit of fun myself just to try something different. 

What was the adapter you used to fit the newer canon body or was it a straight fit for EF /EF-S bodies!? 

7 minutes ago, alacant said:

No. The maximum opening of the lens. This corresponds to the minimum clear diameter of the lens cell along the light path. In this case 12.2mm.

if it helps, look through a lens as you zoom. You'll see the aperture change as the focal length changes. At 200mm, the aperture is larger so as to keep the f-ratio at f4.5. In fact some zoom lenses can't manage to keep the f-ratio the same and can quite often offer a smaller aperture for the longer focal lengths. E.g. 55-300mm f4.5-5.6.

HTH

Ok I see, I didn't know that's how a camera lens functions. Thanks for the info. One last thing while I think about what to do. For the plate solving, I remember setting up the profiles for the scopes and cameras I have for APT to be able to plate solve. You mentioned about entering the value in point craft, would I not have to set up that profile as well so in regards to a zoom lens which could be many different focal lengths, would I then have to set up profile for each if that makes sense!? If that's the case I guess it would be easier to stick with a fixed focal length lens. 

3 minutes ago, alacant said:

No, not due to the blades as they will be fully open. 12.2mm is the maximum opening.

Apologies, I'm really showing my dumbness now! No wonder I struggle with this hobby! 😊 So the rear opening of the lens then!? 

1 minute ago, alacant said:

A typical (affordable?) 55-200 zoom has a maximum f-ratio of 4.5.

Maths: 55/4.5 = 12.2

But don't let that put you off. Many of us put up with it. Worse, even; you'll have to close the aperture even smaller to get decent stars. Frightening eh?!

Cheers

Apologies, I get it now, I forgot that a camera lens has aperture blades which I'm guessing is what you mean buy it going down to a 12.2 aperture!? 

5 minutes ago, alacant said:

Short version: your lens has a focal length of 55mm. Enter that value in PointCraft instead of your current telescope focal length.

 

Its the 55mm has only an aperture of 12mm!? that would be good to understand before i spend out on a lens! 👍

2 minutes ago, alacant said:

Hi

Yeah, it's the same as using a telescope. Just enter the focal length.

But bear in mind that a typical zoom lens at 55mm (to fit in the whole of Orion) has an aperture of only 12mm; painfully slow. Which probably explains why 12mm f4.5 refractors never caught on!

Cheers

Ok now you have me confused!? Easy done! lol

I'm thinking this is probably a stupid question and that I already know the answer but in regards to setting up to shoot widefield with a DSLR and lens, if I set a plate solve profile for that setup I can then use APT and PHD2 the same way I've been using it!? Is there anything I need to know that's not already obvious!? I'm guessing I would have to set up an individual profile for each possible focal length in order to plate solve but in regards to that, I'm not sure what focal length that maybe especially if I get a telephoto lens such as a 55-250mm, it seems a bit of a faff. It's only because I'm toying with the idea of getting a lens to do some wide shots, hopefully of Orion before it begins to disappear. 

Yeah ok, you win!! Stunning image. 

27 minutes ago, wimvb said:

"I froze my butt off for you!"

Thank you! Well worth the effort, excellent image.

Thanks 😊

Well, for 1hrs worth of freezing cold data, I will certainly take that! My best yet!  Still some work and improvements to be had but I think I'm pretty much there with the gear I have so my Canon 600D and SW80 ED DS PRO has done me proud!

Taken with The Optolong L=enhance so colours not 100% but I like it!

1 hour ago, Neila1975 said:

Cheers - think I'll have a go on Saturday when I have a little more time

No problem, I hope you manage to get it all up and running ok. 

1 hour ago, Neila1975 said:

Cable has arrived!  

Will hook it up tonight.  Is everything controlled via APT?   Have other software installed, NINA, PHD2, Ascom, etc etc. 

So the way I have it set up and running is as follows:

Mount-  Controlled by the EQDirect cable from mount to laptop, the correct ASCOM/EQASCOM drivers for the mount downloaded on the laptop. Now when I open APT to connect the scope, EQASCOM opens up and shows what position my scope is in (i.e park), from there i can un park the scope and set it to side rail tracking ready to then slew to target in APT. I can now connect the scope to APT and PHD2 and the mount can be controlled via the EQASCOM control pad, APT and PHD2 for guiding. APT is where I select my target and slew the mount to it, plate solve etc then capture away! I have set up a 'Profile' in PHD2 for my mount and guide camera, you can check the drivers etc are working when you try and connect your equipment in PHD2 when setting up the profile or when connecting to the other software programes.

Imaging Camera - Again I have the correct ASCOM driver and a cable running from the camera to the laptop, I can now select my camera in APT where I control it and run the exposure plan Ive set up.

As long as all the drivers etc are set up properly, all of the software programes will speak to each other.

So when I'm out for the night I do as follows:

Everything turned on, first I pola align. I then turn on APT which also opens my EQASCOM control pad, I un-park the mout and set the mount to sidereal tracking via the EQASCOM control pad. In APT I have set up what is needed to plate solve so I then choose my target, send the mount to that target, plate solve then I'm ready to capture the target. I then open PHD2 and check my mount and guide camera are connected to it. Because I have already completed a good enough star calibration I can then start lopping and then auto select a star and start guiding. When I'm happy with the guiding I can go back into APT and run the capture sequence that I have set up.

It might sound alot but its only the setting everything up to start with that takes time, once your set up correctly on your laptop, you can be up and running really quickly for a nights imaging. Hopefully that all makes sense.

Make a cone around the lens using card, funky foam or similar to act as a dew shield!? 🤔

Ive got everything crossed that I'm about to fall over!! 😄

26 minutes ago, Neila1975 said:

OK.  Thanks all.

No problem, il do my best to help you through it but I may not be able to remember ever part of setting it up. 

1 hour ago, Neila1975 said:

OK, just so I have this right, I can use the guide scope & camera with SharpCap to first PA, then switch the camera to guiding using PHD2?

Yeah that should be the right cable. So I don't use sharp cap so not familiar with it. The process I follow is, everything turned on and connected/talking to each other. I pola Align through the HEQ5 Pro pola scope, I use an app to tell me with Polaris is. Because I've set up plate solving in Apt which again can be a head ache to set up but seriously worth it, I can choose my target in APT, slew to it then plate solve in Apt, sync that to the scope. My target will then be centered in frame ready to then connect to PHD2 to guide, once guiding I go back into APT and press go on the image plan I've set. I now sit back and enjoy the ride..... then wait for something to get upset.........sit back again and enjoy the ride! 😁

Plate solving is yet another game changer for getting you correctly on target. No star alignment needed, just choose the target, solve and then your away, it's awesome. I honestly had a tough time setting it all up but it's seriously made my life easier and really made a big difference to my astrophotophotography so I couldn't recommend doing all of this enough. I owe a big thanks to this forum and it's great members for their help. 

23 minutes ago, Neila1975 said:

Thanks - started reading an am already confused! 

Appricate that, my thread probably didn't help the confusion but honestly if you take the time to read through it and set it all up it's worth it, I'm not going to lie and say it's easy, it was a bit of a headache but if I can do it then you can. What else can you do while we have all these clouds! 😉

Get the EQ Direct cable, Download the correct ASCOM drivers for your camera and mount, download EQASCOM. I think everything is within my thread but you will have to hunt for it I'm afraid. It will all be worth it, trust me. 

Here's my old thread when I set everything up, it's long but worth looking through. You will probably have less of a headache than me, me setting it up, my brain let's me down the most! 😊

Do it, do it, do it! 😊

So APT is Astro photography tool, it's the software many people use to control their equipment, there are other programs that are great too. The software connects with the EQASCOM software so everything speaks to each other. My mount and camera contect to this software (Apt) which then allows me to do everything I need, set up exposures, slew the mount to its target etc. I appreciate its an extra cost and time to set everything up but honestly its really worth it. I tried my best to get it working off the ST4 cable to start with aswell but it just would not work. The EQ Direct cable is the best £35 I've spent so far, it's honestly a game changer! 

I tried for ages to get my HEQ5 mount running via the ST4 cable and it just wouldn't work. I'm pleased it didn't because it was suggested to just run it off a laptop via a Lynx Astro EQ direct cable, I've never looked back and it's made things so much easier. So now I use the EQ direct cable with the correct EQASCOM software and control the mount via that through Apt. I've  been loving using it this way ever since, like you I wanted to make my life easier for now with the ST4 but actually the way I ended up doing it with the EQ direct option is easier in the end!