Space Oddities

What's in the box is adapted to a scope with 55-56mm of back focus, so you won't be able to reach the 44mm required by the Canon lens. I think you have 2 options to get started: Option 1 Provided you have the Astro Essentials adapter installed, you mount from the back of the lens: ZWO's T2-M48 16.5mm Extender ZWO's T2 female-T2 female adapter (the black ring attached to the camera) - 11mm ASI533 - 6.5mm That makes a total of 34mm, so you'll be missing 10mm in your imaging train. Perhaps you have a spacer already, otherwise you need to purchase one. Either T2-T2 or M48-M48, female to male. I can recommend spacers from TS Optics. They have a lot of choice with all kinds of spacers and adapters, in a well organized section: https://www.teleskop-express.de/shop/index.php/cat/c10_adaptors.html Option 2 While you're waiting for the Astro Essentials adapter (I'm not sure when they'll be in stock again!), you'll have to use a Canon bayonet adapter, like this one or this one. They work out of the box, you just need to connect the lens on one side and the camera with ZWO's 11mm ring on the other, and you're good to go There are other adapters out there, not by ZWO, like this one. But they have a different thickness. Although they work fine, you'll need to add spacers to get to 44mm... So not as out-of-the-box as ZWO's. HTH!

Stunning image, through my beginner's eyes it's simply perfect! Great work! I'm wondering, what is this little thing near the right edge of the frame? Looks like a very tiny cigar galaxy!

I posted a pic of my setup earlier, that might give you some ideas https://stargazerslounge.com/topic/333381-imaging-with-the-samyang-135mm-f2/page/17/?tab=comments#comment-3996625 I used the 44mm of back focus as follows (starting from the lens): M48 to T2 adapter TS Optics - 5mm TS 360° rotator (T2-T2), that also acts as a 2" filter holder - 19mm Spacer - 2mm ZWO T2 female to T2 female ring (sold with camera) - 11mm Camera - 6.5mm That makes 43.5mm of back focus, with some room left to account for the filter inside the rotator I think adding a rotator in the imaging train can be useful, because of all the ways of mounting the lens I have seen so far, none of them made rotation very convenient... A filter drawer could be very useful too, if you plan to use a dual narrowband or light pollution filter for instance. Alternatively, you can also screw a 1.25" filter directly on top of the sensor, with the right adapter from ZWO (I'm not sure it's included with the camera though). Less convenient if you need to switch filters often, but if you don't, it's by far the cheapest option Hope that helps! Welcome to the club

I believe it is only compatible with the standard Vixen dovetails bars. What kind of photographic equipment do you plan to mount? There are many ways to attach something Arca-Swiss to the HEQ5. Perhaps the most versatile and secure is to purchase an Arca-Swiss clamp, like this one or this one, that has at least 2 threaded holes to provide a secure fit. And attach this clamp to a dovetail bar like that one, most likely via the 2x1/4" threads (usually the 3/8" screws are too wide to fit most Vixen dovetail bars, but 1/4" should be fine). There's even this clamp that has 4x1/4" holes, if you're using very heavy lenses and want to make sure they're not going anywhere!

Great review and gorgeous heart, well done! Your cable management is also very impressive 😋

The QHY one will sell for $2399 apparently ($2099 for early birds) https://www.facebook.com/QHYCCD/posts/2993999350703328

Apparently QHY as well!

Apparently the ASI2600MM mono is coming soon

You need to add a compatible finder shoe. The one sold by WO works perfectly of course, but a bit pricey. I use the one that was on my Sky-Watcher Maksutov scope and one or two countersunk screws (I believe it's M4) salvaged from something else. Works great! I believe the spacing needed is 20mm, but I'm not sure and I don't have my scope with me to confirms, sorry ASI120 or similar works very well for that setup! I use it to guide my Samyang and my RedCat with the same guide scope and that's more than enough I think the shoe I'm using is this one: https://www.firstlightoptics.com/finders/finder-mounting-shoe.html And I believe this one would work too if the spacing is indeed 20mm on the tube ring: https://www.firstlightoptics.com/finders/astro-essentials-finder-shoe.html Sadly both are out of stock at FLO, but surely you can find them somewhere else, they seem quite standard!

I think an Ha filter is a must have, especially when the Moon is up. I like those broadband looks as well, but the HaRGB images are also very pleasing to show some details or colors you cannot see otherwise. I often see narrowband filters as a way to re-balance the colors in your picture. The sensor is flooded with photons from other wavelengths, so the Ha's voice cannot be heard... a narrowband filter is a way to give the mic to this wavelength Also since you have a mono camera, you can create your own looks, by combining Ha with LRGB with your own parameters. You can find online some free HaLRGB data and see what you can get out of it, compare wIth LRGB only, see what works best for you. This being said, Ha filters are really cheap nowadays, especially on the used market. You have some entry level brands like ZWO, or more expensive ones from Baader, Astronomik or Chroma, with different bandpasses to fit your needs. I think you can't go wrong with any of them, even if it's only as a way to image during foul Moon! PS: I think DeepSkyWest has free and very clean HaLRGB data to play with, you just need to give up an email: https://www.deepskywest.com/free-downloads-v2 Best way to make up your mind, IMO, is to try it yourself!

What about this one? The filter thread of the Samyang is 77mm, so I think that mask would be a perfect fit for the lens and its dew shield. I find translucid Bahtinov masks much better than opaque ones, like those that are 3D printed. The lines are more visible and it is therefore easier to focus, in my limited experience at least. Especially if you don't have super bright stars available. Plus, the adjustable size makes it versatile, if you own other scopes with a 75-110 diameter (which is quite standard range). https://www.firstlightoptics.com/bahtinov-focus-masks/william-optics-bahtinov-mask-for-dew-shield-diameter-75mm-to-110mm.html

I tried Bluestacks, indeed it works really well! Provided you have a good connection to the ASIAIR, but there's nothing a Wi-Fi extender or Ethernet cable cannot solve

Yes, sorry I meant other brands like cameras, filter wheels, focusers working via ASCOM. Some consumer cameras being the exception, like you mentioned

Same here I love its simplicity (great for beginners like me), the interface is modern and intuitive. ZWO is also bringing new features regularly and closely listens to the customers. The only questionable thing is that it doesn't let you use non-ZWO hardware, but I can understand this is their commercial strategy! Enjoy!

I have used both versions of the ASIAIR with my iPhone 8, which has 2 GB of RAM according to the specs. To be honest I didn't know 4 GB was recommended, but I've never experienced anything slow with the app. I believe a lot of people have been using the ASIAIR with cheap Android tablets with 1 or 2 GB of RAM. Of course an Android tablet isn't an iPhone, but keep in mind the app running on the tablet is only a way to control the ASIAIR. All calculations are done by the computer, and only displayed in the app. I agree with Richard though, some functions like focusing or video mode, might require more resources than basic functions. But I think you should be fine

Yep, I wouldn't touch the collimation screws either! I've looked at other pictures of Redcat, as well as mine, and couldn't find such spike anywhere. For example these pictures of Sadr: https://cdn.astrobin.com/thumbs/bQqyD19ggn6-_16536x16536_kWXURFLk.jpg https://cdn.astrobin.com/thumbs/EFKOfqbrkFTH_16536x16536_JXczOqwr.png Perhaps your copy is simply faulty and is eligible to an exchange? Unless you can live with it! Hmm I don't think that's the case, and I believe it's just a naming convention. I'm pretty sure all these variants are optically identical. I have the TS 60ED, which is a rebranded Zenithstar 61, and both scopes show spikes on bright stars anyway

Hmm I just checked my cat, and couldn't see any screw visible inside the lens... But the spikes really look like the ones described here, for which the cause seemed to be collimation screws:

Perhaps screws protruding inside the lens? The Z61 has a similar issue I believe, and if I remember correctly, this is more visible as the temperature gets lower...

I also believe that's too much complexity, for a setup that's supposed to be simple. Also, I use mine with small sensors (ASI1600 or ASI178) anyway, so I don't think it's worth it. Also, it could be worse! Check out that horrible tilt, you can see it pretty clearly with even a compressed image... I understand why Samyang is infamous for their QC... I also read this user saying he uses a step down filter to improve the star shape in the corners. Kind of defeat the purpose of an f/2 lens, but with his technique of star removal, he gets the best of both worlds. I just drop that here, in case anyone is interested

Are you using the Canon version, or did you mode it with Rob's fantastic 48mm adapter? I haven't had a chance to test mine that just arrived, but I remember my Canon to T2 adapter wasn't particularly tight, and I suspect it also created a very slight tilt. I hope this M48 adapter will help in that regard! Otherwise, I see no other option, except using a tilt adapter in between...

I'm starting to wonder if this isn't a problem with all copies of the 135mm. One corner always seems to have weird stars! Perhaps a misalignment of one of the many lenses inside? Great picture nonetheless, Adrian! I love that tiny galaxy you also captured in the bottom left corner!

Looking great David! I'd love to join, but only clouds here in Bavaria... and the current curfew from 9pm doesn't help either! I think my next purchase will be a garden with a view... Hopefully FLO will start selling these!

I tried that as well a couple years ago, but ran into problems when I tried to rotate the lens. Some parts of the tape was sticky where it shouldn't be, and created a huge mess... it was dark and didn't see what was happening until it was too late I like the idea of the ring though, it should make rotating the lens much easier! Well done!+ Speaking of adhesive: I tuned the 360° rotator I recently added, and added a scale, to help me with flats Still waiting for a very lightweight guide scope I ordered from Aliexpress, that should make the rig even more portable and travel friendly, and I guess the setup will be complete!

Thanks Wim! Yes I also had the problem of blown out core, and couldn't bring it back. I'll keep that in mind for the next time, and try to make a HDR version!

Thanks a lot I'm pretty happy with my progress, just wish I had my own garden... But that's something that hopefully will come later in life, so you make do with what you have