bluesilver

I am not an expert by any means, but when i was taking a few shots of the milky way with my DSLR camera i set the ISO to 800, i think 6400 is a bit much, but try 800 and see how it goes. Moonless night will also be a added bonus.

Thanks heaps, That has explained it extremely well, Learned a fair bit also on just the flats, i had it a tad wrong. Very much appreciated and great explaining also. Wish i went here and asked first up, my researching hasn't done me well. Looking forward to putting it all into practice now. Cheers.

Thanks for the reply, I think i might see my error now, Darks are taken with the exact same settings as your lights, but just with the cover on the scope, I think that is correct? Flats are taken with target ADU ( this is what i completely forgot about ) only just got the ASI2600mc, use to use a DSLR So for this camera, i think the ideal ADU is around 30000 ( i am using APT to do all this by the way ) Is there a target ADU or a target histogram that i should be looking for when doing flat darks? I take it that also still should be running the camera at the same temperature as the lights and darks?

Hi, I am guessing it is a basic question, but after doing some research i can't find an answer on what is different between these two, Dark frames and dark flat frames. I am using DeepsSkyStacker and my camera is a ASI2600mc So i know the Darks are taken with the cap on the end of the scope and the camera temperature, exposure, and all settings are the same as what you used for the lights The Flats are taken with a illuminated white light at the end of the scope and the camera temperature, exposure, and all settings are the same as what you used for the lights The Bias is taken with the cap on the end of the scope and the camera temperature, and all settings are the same as what you used for the lights except the exposure is as fast as the camera will take them. But this Dark Flats has got me stumped, from what i have researched, it is exactly the same as the Darks, but this can't be right otherwise why would it be called Dark Flats. So how do i go about taking these dark flats? So say you don't have to take bias frames with this camera or it might of been dark frames, not sure, i was just going to take all of them and see how things turn out. But mainly interested in finding out how to take these dark flat frames. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

Hi i am having a few issues that i can't seam to sole in FireCapture with imaging the planets. ( Jupiter and Saturn ) I am using a Skywwatcher AZ/EQ6 mount and ASI224mc camera, and all been driven through ASCOM. I have both the Auto align and Auto guide option ticked and get those 4 green arrows blinking every now and then to indicate that it is moving the mount. I don't think that it is actually moving the mount though as after say 1.5 minutes i will slowly see a black line coming across the planet ( kind of like an eclipse ) meaning that the planet has drifted off the view screen of the camera. I thought that FireCapture was suppose to keep the planet in the center of the frame and move the mount to keep it there, is this correct? Am i missing something here in my setup or am i only suppose the be running Auto guide and not both Auto guide and Auto align at the same time? I haven't changed any of the settings in either Auto guide. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

This is a very interesting and detail instructions around backlash. What i have done and i am guessing i have done it incorrect, But i kind of adjusted my backlash when everything was off the mount, I removed the belt and I just adjusted those grub screws so that everything was tight and bound up, then i just loosened then a bit by bit until i could move the main gear cog with my finger and kept on adjusting until i got rid of the backlash, just buy trying to to move the mount head by hand. I haven't played around with that worm end float though, ( the large screw in behind those black plastic covers that adjust the pressure on the worm gear bearings ) I haven't tried the backlash movement when it is loaded up with all the gear on it yet though. I always thought that if you couldn't move that main gear cog by your finger it was too tight and binding too hard. Have it got it all wrong and need to tighten it up more or adjust the pressure on the worm drive bearing more?

That is a great video on start to finish, wish i had that before i did mine. I can't say that the nut on mine came undone that easily ( the one behind the polar scope ) I had to make up a long bar with a few pins to get mine to undo. But after watching that i just remember that i hadn't done the bolts up after adjusting the backlash, so a very good video just for that. Something like this should become a permanent post, very helpful.

It will good to hear how you go with this, can be frustrating i know. But it will be worth the effort in the end, Mine is back together and just waiting on clear nights, You might have to play around a bit with the drive sprocket on the worm gears to get the belt to track correctly, but apart from that it should all go fairly smoothly form there on for you.

Sounds very odd indeed, as they shouldn't be tight at all. Maybe put up a phot of what you have there, sounds like either a very bad damaged thread or the casing itself could possibly be slightly damaged making the hole not so round, but think both of these would be unlikely. But if a hot air gun doesn't do the trick another option, and might not be the best option, but if you have a large container that it will fit in, you could put it in there and then cover it completely with diesel, and leave it overnight. ( first remove the circuit board though ) Sounds odd i know, but diesel is a great lubricant and have done this on other things that require freeing up. But that little tool i made in the photo works well, at the most you might bend the tabs on the tool to get it free, but mainly it should only really be figure tight. The first one it did was hard, but then with the second one i just gently eased the pressure on it and away it went.

I am just trying to picture this slotted nut that you are referring to, I might be wrong here, but i don't think i came across one on my AZ/EQ6 The only slotted nut that comes to mind for me is the ones holding the bearings on the worm gears, but these wouldn't be that tight unless they have used something like Loctite or thread locker on them. If this is the case, then just warm it up with a hot air gun, if you don't have one, a hair dryer will work to get enough heat to let the locking compound go.

Graphite grease is great for threads, nothing will ever get stuck again if you use this.

Definitely look like they both will do the job just fine. It took quiet a bit of effort for me to get the RA nut off, not sure on the EQ6, but with the AZ/EQ6 there are 3 grub screws that must be removed first, I am sure that you would be aware of this, but just though it was worth a mention. I had to remove the actual housing that the mount sits in ( not sure of the technical name ) to be able to locate them. Sounds like you are moving along fairly well with it though.

It would definitely be handy to have the correct tools, You should of seen what i had to make up to use just get the locking nut off that sits behind the polar scope. That was the hardest part of the disassembly for myself on this mount. The 1.5mm mid steel might be sturdy enough, depends on how stuck the screw is, it only just needs to be tight enough to stop the worm gear moving sideways, I found if you do them up too tight it just binds the bearings and worm gear making the worm gear hard to turn. But give the mild steel a try, my very rough made up one works a treat for mine.

I should also make a note that there are very tiny marks on the round plates that sit just above the encoders, just make sure these are nice and clean when reinstalling. I just used warm water and wiped them dry, just incase you get a bit of dirt or grease on them while handing the plates while they are out.

Sorry, i should of made a note about getting that screw out of the worm carriers. All i did was used a bit of 2 mm metal plate, or 2mm thick tin if you can find some laying around. If you are handy with a hacksaw or girder, i just cut the middle out and it worked a treat. I have included a photo to try and show what i am talking about, it is just a bit of metal i had laying around. I have completed my rebuild and now just putting it all back together, mine is the newer AZ/EQ6 mount with the USB hub. So there is quiet a bit of difference between this and the AZ/EQ6 It is a very simple procedure to do once you get started.

Half way through my AZ/EQ6 strip down, all going as planned. I have now only just came across a full guide for the AZ/EQ6 ( now that i am half way through it of course ) But just thought it might be of use to others that are thinking of doing the AZ/EQ6 version. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1QEUMAUJR3MQMS55Vh0eY6M4WYKeGLWl5/view

Definitely go with the ultimate if the budget allows, i have the advance and while it is great, just need that little bit more. If i was buying again, Ultimate is the way to go. And yes, the Ultimate has a stepper motor controller, so that is a + also as well as a few other bonuses.

Definitely sounds like a good choice in regards to bearings if you are doing a complete tear down. I think i might get stuck into my AZ/EQ6 today, the RA axis on mine is not a free as the DEC Axis, so looking to do the same as what you are doing, complete strip down and rebuild. Will be interested to see how you go with removal of the bearings and replacement.

Just out of interest, Was you planning on replacing all the bearings in this strip down/ rebuild?

What would be nice is, if i could make up a spring loaded worm gear drive mount, something like you get on the higher cost mounts. This at least will help keep a good constant tension on the worm gear and drives.

This is a very good run down on the procedure, and gives yo a good idea on how to go about it. I am planning to do my AZ/EQ6 next week when i get a bit of bench room cleared up form another project. The AZ/EQ6 is slightly different from the EQ6, so will be interesting just to see how much different they are. There is a few things i would change though in regards to grease, and highly recommend it. For the worm gears, i will be using EP grease and plenty of it on them hat i have here, this is the grease designed for worm drives / gears, ( EP stands for extream pressure ) For the other grease i will just be using Synthetic grease which is designed for wheel bearings that i have here also. For bearings, i will be using the equivalent of SKF which is FAG here. Not sure about shims yet, will wait until i get it apart to have a look at what they have done there.

Surely looks like a solid tripod you have there. My other option that i was possibly looking at was just to go with a Skywatcher EQ8-R mount and tripod. Kind of just upgrade to a bigger mount and if in future i get a bigger scope i will already have the mount as i am pretty much getting near the limit where i am now. I don't think i need to go for the EQ8-RH version, that would just be over the top for what i want as i am not in a permanent dome setup, i am in the back yard, so pull down and pack up each night.

Appreciated, Looks like a very good setup. Just put an order in for one of them, should be here in a couple of weeks hopefully. Hopefully by then, the 2 months of cloud cover should be stating to clear up here.

Thanks for the photos, Yes looks like a much better option that the original setup. Any chance that you can please tell me how long the ADM plate is? Looks like you have a very decent solid mount there also. That could well be another option, a solid pier if i can find a good spot to that isn't going to be in the way too much when not in use.

Thanks for the replies, Never thought of going to a photographic dealer asking for them, that could be a very good option right there. All the astronomy dealers don't have them listed here in Australia.