bluesilver

Hi, Just a question in regards to white balance for a DSLR I have a Canon 600D which I have done the full modification on by removing the internal UV filter. I am just tryin to find out the best way to setup a custom white balance for this camera as I assume that it will need one now ? I think i read somewhere years ago, that you just put the standard camera lens on, take a phot of a white piece of paper and then just set this as your custom white balance. I am just interested to know if this is correct or if i even need a custom white balance even though the camera is modified, or just use the standard default custom whit balance? Or yet again, instead of the white paper, do i connect the camera directly to the scope and take an image as if i were doing flats and use that as a custom white balance? Any advice on this would be appreciated. Thanks.

Thanks for that link, That link for Microsoft Ice worked like a charm, downloaded and installed without any dramas. Apprecated.

Appreciate that advice, I will check that one out also, Cheers.

Hi, First, sorry if i have got this in the wrong thread, apologies' if i have. I am looking at imaging the moon, and as you may have guesses, i haven't got a camera with a wide enough view to capture it all in one frame, and also not an imaging scope small enough to do so either. So after doing a bit of research, i found this program called Moon Panorama Maker, but there is very little talk about it and even less videos on it I was interested to know if anyone here has or is using this program to make mosaics of the moon, and if so, is it any good. Ideally i would like to use my Celestron C14 XLT to image the moon, the result would be heaps of small mosaics due to the large focal length of 3910mm. The other option was to use my imaging scope, Skywatcher Esprit 150, But would be great if i could use the C14 though. Any advice on this would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Ah, Good to know, Just thought i would check in case something obvious was missing since new. At least i am not trying to chase something that doesn't exist. Very much appreciated.

Hi, this is a bit of an odd question, I have had my 16" Skywatcher GOTO Dobsinian for a few years and i have only just realized that it doesn't have any mirror clips. Only really noticed it yesterday when i had the primary mirror out for cleaning as it was really bad . I am just interested to know if this is how the 16" versions are supposed to be? It is basically held on by hat i am guessing is a large center bolt on the bottom of the mirror, there is a small cap that i am guessing hides the main center bolt. I didn't take any photos of it at the time as i just didn't notice it until i used it last night, couldn't get a decent focus on the planets, so just put it down to poor seeing conditions last night. But found the manual online here: https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1450450/Sky-Watcher-Dobsonian-Synscan.html?page=7 and definitely no mirror clips there I thought i was fairly good at collimating these scopes, but after doing a bit more back reading, i realize people are talking about making sure yo get the 3 mirror clips centered by adjusting the secondary mirror. This just clicked to me that i don't have any mirror clips holding my primary mirror. So just interested to know if this is correct for the 16" Skywatcher Dobsonian to not have any mirror clips around the edge of the primary mirror? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Hi, I have asked this question before in another forum, but got quiet confusing answers, so i thought i would ask here as a few here have C14 scopes. I have the XLT version, so it is the non Edge version of the C14 The camera that i am trying to attach is a ZWO asi2600mc Now what i am trying to do is find the correct accessory that i need to get from the Celestron Thread to a M48 or M42 thread so that i can add my spacers to get o the correct back focus distance The thread i am referring to is the one that the Celestron Diagonal screws directly onto I was looking at this T-Adaptor: Celestron part number # 93633-A https://www.firstlightoptics.com/adapters/celestron-sct-t-adapter.html The site tells me it is a 50mm adaptor that is used for DSLR cameras, I was thinking that i could add my spacers on the end of this to get me to the correct back focus. Celestron says on their site that 5.475 inches from 3 in-2in reducer plate or 5.975 inches in from primary mirror baffle tube lock ring, Since i have no idea what they are on about when they say 5.475 inches from 3 in-2in reducer plate, I am assuming this is that plate that the diagonal screws into? So if that is correct, converting it all to metric to make it easier, 5.475 inches = 139mm So that Celestron T-Adaptor that i have the link to is 50mm, camera sensor is 17.5mm, so that means i need a spacer of 71.5mm And advice or corrections on this would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Appreciated, I thought i might of been over thinking thigs a bit there. Appreciate the advice and also the ball bearing method also. I have plenty of room as i am on a rural property, so distance is no issue there. I will give both a go and see how the results turn out like. Appreciated.

Hi, Sorry to jump on in this post. I was actually looking do do an artificial star test and came across this while i was doing a search. For me i kind of got a bit lost in all the technical details there. I have two scopes that i was planning on just trying this artificial star test out just for something different and see how things compare. My scopes are a 16" f4.4 Dobsonian focal length of 1800mm and a Celestron C14 XLT f11 focal length 3910mm So i am trying to find the minimum distance to setup to collimate using an artificial star. I got a tad lost in all the technical detail that you went through though. I did read somewhere that they say for a general rule it is about 20 -25 times the focal length of the scope. So for the Dobsonian , that would be around 36 - 45 meters Ant the C14, it would be around 78 - 98 meters away, Dose this sound about right? I had a look at that site with the calculators, but still can't figure out the distance needed, I was only just going to use a the basic method of the artificial light which is a torch with aluminum foil and pin hole. So was hoping to get some basic advise on how to work out how far away i should be looking at. Any advice would be appreciated.

Appreciate al the replies and advice. It is sounding more and more like tube current due to the thermal differences as everyone has been pointing out which is greatly appreciated. I have now got the entire scope covered in 10mm sound deading foam that they use in cars / vans including the rear and covered the rear vents also. Theory is that will prevent any cool air entering the scope. Also have a Celestron dew heater on the corrector plate to keep that from cooling and dewing up also. I am keen to see what happens next time i get a cloud free night.

Appreciated, that made things a tad easier. Will read up on that and get one made. Greatly appreciated.

Appreciate the replies and advise. This is the first time i have ever head of a Duncan Mask, it is now something that i am going to have to go and do a bit of a search and read up on, sounds interesting. Yes there was a bit of thermal wobbling when i was trying to do a star collimation, so sounds like thermal activity was the cause for that nights viewing at least.

Appreciate the advice. Any recommendations for eye piece size for these C14 scopes? Maybe look at say a 40mm that Celestron make? I have never had much issues with the 16"Dob but then again that is an open air design, only occasionally get not so good views at the planets if seeing conditions are bad. I have yet to try it out again with all the changes i have just made to it, hoping these will limit tube currents and allow even cooling.

Hi, I have just received a new C14 XLT, so it is not the Edge version. I am just curious to find out if i have a bad issue or just a very bad night for viewing. I did a star collimation as i had the corrector plate out as i wanted to fix up some threaded holes for a top plate, All good with the corrector plate, marked i to make sure it went back in the correct orientation / place. I did clean the corrector plate as i did get a bit of dust, rubbish from the threaded holes first up. But long story sort, i thought i would try an get a look at the planets, Jupiter and Saturn, it was nothing but a ball of mush no matter how i focused, I was using a 20mm eye piece at the time. So i though i would just check out the moon, nice and easy target, still couldn't get a focus on that, could make out the craters, but no a nice clear image through a 20mm eyepiece. Now i am not sure if the seeing conditions that night were completely rubbish, i was a tad keen to get it out to try. ( I have a Skywatcher Esprit 150 of imaging and a 16" Dob for viewing, so it is not the first scope i have ever had ). Is this normal for the C14, or am i using too high a power eye piece? The plan for this scope is imaging the planets when i get it sorted. I am thinking of re moving the corrector plate again and re cleaning both sides + the secondary mirror, But i am not really sure this is the issue as even dirty mirrors should give a decent image. I am guessing it is seeing conditions on that night, but hoping some C14 owners might be able advise if something is odd. I have since now wrapped the entire scope in 10mm thermal insulation that they use on Automotive vehicles, added a ZWO electric focuser and a dew heater for the corrector plate. Any thoughts or ideas would be appreciated,

Thanks for the replies, and sorry for the long delay in replying. I had been waiting a while for Celestron to get back to my emails that i sent a few times to them. They are a little confused with their own products, but finally got the answer that they are only used for when transporting the scope, they ay you just unscrew them completely and leave it like that at al times unless it is transported. Cheers.

That drawing there looks almost exactly the same as what i can see when i remove those side vents. You can see that bolt going into that large metal plate. Getting a reply from celestron is a 50 / 50 chance you get a reply, but will send them another one off to them.

The tag just says: Before attempting to focus, loosen these screw completely. This is the latest version of the C14 XTL, well at least a few months old anyway. Removing and looking through the two vent holes, you can see the large metal plate that holds the primary mirror and the focuser rod attached to it. Also attached to this is these two locking screws. I am guessing they are transit screws, but i am also guessing the same is true for the Edge version and possible the same setup inside? I am just not sure if you are just suppose to leave them a few turns loose while in use or get focus and then tighten them down?

Hi, I have a brand new Celestron C14 XTL, I have read through the manual and tried to do a bit of a search online, but so far haven't been able to find any answers to my question, so i was hoping someone on here might be able to help me out please? I am talking about the two mirror locking screw in the photo below. So far all i have done is set it up during the day to focus up a distance radio tower and align my red dot finder to it. To do this i completely unwound both mirror locking screws so i could get enough focus travel to reach focus, ( i am not sure if i should of done that or not, but i have the locking screws back on their thread now ) So the question is: When i get focus say on Jupiter, am i suppose to then do these two locking nuts back up or are they suppose to be left undone a say about 1 full turn? I latter plan to replace the focusing knob with a ZWO electric focuser. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Cheers.

Cheers, I will give the 55mm spacers a go next time it is a clear night. Not sure why Skywatcher made a the main note that it is 75mm back focus, then when you read the fine print under it all , they say *>75mm with custom made adaptor, 55mm with standard adaptor. Makes it a tad confusing, or at least to me it did. Cheers.

Hi, I have a Skywatcher Esprit 150 and it came with the Skywatcher 0.77 flied flattener / reducer, Now i may be over reading the instructions on the box, but to me it appears to be a tad complicated in what they are trying to say. It says: > 75mm back focus* but then under this is says: *>75mm with custom made adaptor, 55mm with standard adaptor Below is a image if what is written on the box So basically I am just trying to find out what is the correct back focus, Is it 55mm? As it seams a bit odd saying 75mm with a custom made adaptor as a custom made adaptor could be anything. So below is what i have assembled, it is the 0.77 flattener/reducer straight out of the box, a 37.5mm spacer ( ZWO 16.5mm and 21mm ) and my camera asi2600 with 17.5mm distance to the sensor. All up from the flattener to the sensor is 55mm Is this the correct back focus? below is a photo of what i have. Any advice would be appreciated. Cheers.

Yes, i was going to do another post in regards to that, a few people say that with longer focal lengths, you are better of with an OAG I have a second had Standard ZWO OAG that i picked up cheap a while ago, but haven't had any luck getting it to pick up stars, got the two in focus during the day time, just no luck at night. I was thinking i may have to go to the ZWO OAG-L with the larger prism and window to work well the asi2600mc and asi290mm mini. Would that be a better choice?

Hi, I am looking at the option of upgrading my current Guide scope to a more ridged setup. I currently have a Orion 60mm, while i am getting good results, i am having to sometime retighten the 3 screws holding it, the setup is all pulled down each night and packed away, i have it setup on a dovetail, so it just slides on when i set up. No drams of the mount holding the extra weight, I have an iOptron CEM120 The main imaging scope is a Skywatcher esprit 150, imaging camera is asi2600mc The guide camera is asi290mm mini I was hoping i could get some advice on what might be a good ridged guide scope, ( one without those 3 screws holding the tube ) Would something like the Skywatcher 62ED EVOLUX be a good choice? Trying to get roughly the same field of view as i currently have would be best if possible I like the idea of being able to focus using the focus knobs rather than that twist helical focuser setup. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks

Thanks for the replies and advice, I have a few spare one that i can play around with. I might also just give it a go without the barlow also and see what the results are. It is not quiet planetary time here yet, so just getting things organized before hand. All very much appreciated.

Hi, I have been doing a bit of searching around and have yet to really find an answer for this question. I am trying to find or convert a barlow to get to a 1.5X barlow. I have read that on a 2X barlow, you can basically unscrew the bottom of the barlow and screw this into the bottom of an eye piece to give you roughly 1.5X But is also true for planetary cameras? I have a f11 scope and the pixel size is 2.9µm which roughly mean that i need a 1.5X Barlow. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.

Hi, i was just interested if anyone here is using the iOptron CEM120 and using PHD2 and also APT ( Astro Photography Tool ) I am mainly just looking to find out what people are using for the dithering settings for this mount in APT and also in PHD2 if at all possible. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.