bluesilver

Thanks for the replies and also that video link, Might take me awhile to view that, but so far looks spot on to what i need to start with. Appreciated.

Hi, I am just starting out in Astrophotography, using a Modified full specrtum Canon EOS 600D, Skywatcher evostar 150ED, AZ-EQ6 mount. Have read many times that people are talking about darks and flats, No matter how i try to research this up i can't seam to find out what this actually means. I have figured it out that it has something to do with the processing part, at least that is what i think it is. Or do i actually have to capture something else as well as the image i am working on? So basically if i am say for instance photographing the Eagle Nebular, Say i take 20 photos of it, Do it hen need to take more of it at a different setting or something, or is this term darks and flats only to do with the processing stage? I am only just staring out with this so please keep it simple for me to start with if possible. Thanks.

Thanks for the replies, appreciated. I should of possibly mentioned this before and not sure if it makes any difference, but i have yet to turn the mount on, I have only just received both the mount and the scope and was just playing around trying to get the scope balanced and see how the unit works. So all this clutch issues is with the mount turned off, not sure if it will make a difference with the mount turned on would t? Yes, i figured when carrying the mount in and out it would be best to have all clutch loose in case something grabbed in the clutches.

Hi, I am new to these mounts, I have always used the goto mounts on Dobsonians. So i just relieved mine yesterday, the Skywatcher AZ-EQ6 Telescope going on it is the Skywatcher Evostar 150ED So i got everything mounted and gone through the process of balancing everything out to see how it all feels. I nipped up both clutches so that the scope fall. Then when i went to take a look through the eyepiece i found if i bumped it even slightly the telescope would move. I know with the Dobsonian mounts that i tighten up the clutches and it stays fairly well solid and doesn't move even if you bump it slighty. So my question is, how tight do i have to do these two clutches up? I find that the RA Clutch is the main one that doesn't appear to hold tight. Is this a common issue or do i have to really tighten it up? Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.

Thanks for the reply, I can see where you are coming from, It just shows up better in the photo due to the photo, If i move it around 180 degrees or anywhere really it still is there, just harder to see without the bright background. The scope didn't come with a operation manual or anything, so now if the dew shield is removable, or extendable at all, it feels permanently attached.

Thanks for the reply, Unfortunately it isn't a reflection from a window, I have moved the scope around inside the garage here and that image remains. I have just got a grey background in the photo to show the suspect image a bit more clearly. I wasn't sure if there is something wrong and have to send it straight back, Just looks a tad odd with the detailed triangle images, Possibly collimation? If so i wouldn't even know where to start with that on these scopes, used to Dobsonians.

Hi, I am hoping someone on here might be able to help or advise what this image is that i am seeing through my scope. I have just got a delivery of a brand new Skywatcher Evostar 150 ED I was just going about a few things checking it out. I am completely new to these scope as i have always been using a Dobsonian. I put a diagonal on and had a quick look through it and found what i thought was a smudge mark, Thinking it was in the diagonal i tool it off but that was clear. Then just looking straight through the scope i could still see it. Thinking it was something on the front of the lens, had a look but all clear. It appears to be inside of the scope. I have attached a photo of it in the hope someone might be able to tell me what it is before i contact the company i purchased it off in Australia. ( Sorry first time at trying to attach an image on here ) To help explain the image a bit, the grey is just a background to help show the defect in question. What i am asking about is the triangles that you can see, What are they? Is this normal? Is there an issue with the scope that i need to send it back?

Thanks for the link, must of missed that the first time round. So basically you will need some sort of pc with this setup then i take it? I was trying to do it without a pc, but looking more into it, it appears that most of the better guiding systems all do use a pc or table device.

Also forgot to ask if adding a barlow is a good idea or not?

I am sure i could be out on my calculations, but going over them again they appear correct unless i have something wrong. Imaging camera / Telescope = Camera 600D CCD Pixel Size 4.31 Ezostar 150ED Focal length 1200 Guide camera / Telescope = Guide camera SynGuider 2 CCD Pixel size 6 Telescope APM Guidescope Imagemaster 60mm Focal lenght 240 All comes out as a ratio of 1:6.96 Unless i have done something wrong. Got a tad confused here when you mentioned what you have is what i use, I haven't really got a guide scope yet, still trying to find out what to go with. What guide scope was you referring to if you don't mind me asking?

Hi, I am brand to to guiding and looking to get a guide scope to start out. So basically what i have all up so far is: SkyWatcher AZ-EQ6 Skywatcher Evostar 150ED Canon EOS 600D camera Skywatcher SynGuider 2 I am sure that the SynGuiders 2 is not the best ideal choice, but for starting out, i picked it up for a good price. So i am looking for a guide scope that will work well for this setup. Using the Astronomy tools calculator https://astronomy.tools/calculators/guidescope_suitability and information i have found to keep the Imaging Guiding ratio to around 1:5 it looks like i need a guide scope with a focal length of around 400 mm, Trouble is that there is not much of them around here where i am to select from. I have found a APM Guidescope Imagemaster 60mm secondhand here but the focal length of this is 240 mm making the ratio 1:6.96, Would this still work? I can add a 2x barlow to get a ratio of 1:3.48 The only other option is a Astromania 70 mm, this has a focal length of 40 mm making the ratio 1:4.48 but only available through Amazon and not sure how all the weight will add up. Any advice or information would be appreciaed. Thanks.

Hi, I have recently just modified my Canon EOS 600D DLSR doing the Astronomik MC clear class modification. It is just basically completely removing the low-pass fliter 1 completely, And also removed the IR Fliter ( Low-pass filter 2) and replacing this with the IR cut filter completely and replacing this with the Astronomik MC clear class. The result it that you get a very red tinge if trying to use it in daytime with a lens, which it is not intended for. At night taking photos of nebular and the like i get a lot of red, too much red in fact. I attach the camera directly to the scope, a Dobsonian in this case, so i am not using the camera lens. What i would like to know is, Should i or is there a filter that i should be using in the T-Ring to get better colour? as at the moment the images are way too red. Should i be using something like the Badder Neodymium & IR-Cut Filter, Or Lumicon oiii filter, or Lumicon UHC Filter screwed onto the the T-Ring? Any advice or information would be appreciated. Thanks.

Hi, i am hoping someone might be able to advise me on what guide scope i need for the Skywatcher SynGuider 2 Here is a link to the SkyWatcher SynGuider 2 for anyone who doesn't know what i am talking about: https://skywatcheraustralia.com.au/product/equatorial-mount-synguider/ I managed to pick one up for a very good price, but in my error, i overlooked the part where i actually need a guide scope for it to attach to, I originally thought it would attach to me finder scope that came with my Dobsonian. I plan to use it on a Skywatcher Dobsonian with goto and also on a AZ-EQ6 mount later on. I am only just starting to dabble into Astrophotography and thought i would give this unit a go for guiding. I came across the Orion Mini 50mm uide Scope, wasn't too sure if this is what i should be looking at or not. So any advise or recomendations on a guide scope that would work with this SkyWatcher SynGuider 2 would be appreciated. Thanks.

Hi, this might be a silly question, but have to ask anyway I am looking at purchasing a Skywatcher Synguider Autogider 2 ans also a Celestron Starsense Acessory for Skywatcher Mounts. I was looking to get them from the UK as they are only half the price as what they are listed here for some reason. So the question is: As i am from the Southern Hemisphere and the UK is in the Northern Hemisphere, will these items still work for me in the Southern Hemisphere? I am not sure if they are made specific for North and South, or are they just all the same? I do realise that it is a silly question and i am most likely overthinking things, I am guessing that they are all the same regardless on where your are, but just thought i would be a safe option to ask first. Sorry if it is just basic a question. Thanks.

Thanks for the ink, Yes it seams to have gone fairly quiet on the reviews on these. I guess that may not be as popular as i first thought.

Hi, I was just interested to know if anyone here has been using the new Skywatcher EVOSTAR ED150, The one with the green dove tail. I haven't found much in the way of reviews on this scope to find out what people think of it. I was mainly interested to know what people thought of the views they were getting through the eyepieces of the planets, Were they nice and crisp clear of a bit average, Then how it looks with stars, if they are nice and clear or a bit average. How dose it perform taking images, are the stars coming out sharp or a bit bloated / average, same goes for the planets. I realise it is just a broad question, but just trying to get a bit of an idea on how this scope has been performing now it has been out for a little while. Any information would be appreciated. Thanks.

Thanks for the replies, spot on what i was looking for information wise. Will hunt around to see what i can find. Appreciated.

Hi, I thinking of just getting started into a bit of astrophotography, mainly just starting out with the planets for now. Using a 16" Skywatcher Dobsonian on a goto mount. I was looking at the AS1224M camera. Now i need to get a laptop to drive it all as i currently don't have one, only a desktop pc. So by basic question for now is, How big of a memory do i need in the laptop, I plan to try to keep the cost down, but just really after a ball park figure on what i need to be looking at , as at this stage i am not quite sure as basic as that sounds. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.

Can i ask how the TS Optics Cassegrain C 203/2436 holds collimation? Dose it need to be collimated as often as the Dobsonian do, or dose it hold fairly well? It won't be left setup, it will be removed from the mount and stored after each viewing sesion. Thanks.

Yes, my Dobsonian is on a goto mount. I was looking to use something like the Skywatcher AZ EQ6 mount. Looking more like the first choice i came up with might be the best option, the TS Optics Cassegrain telescope C 203/2436 OTA. Plenty of time to do research, just thought it would be best to ask opinions first, and very much appreciate them. Dobsonian are great, but more suited for DSO, but then again, i could be wrong, Always found great advice on here.

Thanks again for the replies, I did think of the Skywatcher Black Diamond ED120/900 also, but haven't really heard that much about them in regards to planetary viewing. I currently have a 16 Dobsonian, quiet large and give good views, But was hoping to find something that will give better fine detail viewing, more of a dedicated Planetary viewing scope if that makes sense.

Thanks for the reply, so you would definitely say it would outperform the 180/2700 on visually viewing the planets? I am also up for any other suggestions that might be better suited, unless i have already narrowed it down to the best options.

Hi, I am looking to move into a telescope dedicated to planets only. I guess what i am looking for is something that will give the best crisp / clear images through the eyepiece. I have a large Dobsonian, and while they are very good at letting in the light, i think i can possibly get better visual images with a dedicated scope. I was looking at the TS Optics Cassegrain telescope C 203/2436 OTA or the Skywatcher 180/2700 I am hoping some here might be able to offer a bit of advise on what would be best, it doesn't have to be any of these two i have listed, that is only what i have came up with so far. Would really like be able to see the rings of Saturn a tad more crisper i guess you could say. All depending on viewing conditions of course. Any suggestions / help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Thanks for the reply appreciated. Thanks for helping clear that up for me, Just some of the technical terms they use gets a tad confusing. Appreciated.

Hi, I am in the process of of using the Castseye collimation tools on a Skywatcher 16 Dobsonian, the collapsible goto version. All looks fairly straight forward, i am just having a few issues with the termination that is being used in the manuals and was hoping someone here might be able to help me out with some of the meanings. The first one is what they call, Vertical offset adjustment of the secondary mirror Under that heading it reads: For optimal "Axial" positioning of the secondary I highly recommend that you consider first setting the corresponding ( and equal ) vertical offset away from the focuser. Refer to the offset cross-reference table on the last page and locate the nearest value to you secondary mirror size ( minor axis length ) in the left-hand column: then read across to the f/no of your telescope listed across the top, The appropriate offset value is in inches. The goal is to move the secondary geometric centre point to the prescribed distance away from the focuser by the offset amount relative to the primary axis centrline. It kind of reads like you need to be a lawyer to understand it, but i am guessing unless you are use to the terminology it is fairly straight forward. So my questions are: With the secondary mirror size ( minor axis length ) is this just simply measuring across the smaller part of the oval shaped mirror? when they are talking about vertical offset away from the focuser, are they actually saying that the spider vanes need to be moved? It won't be much going from the numbers on the sheet they provide, it will only be around .18" or there abouts, ( haven't actually measured the secondary mirror yet ) It kind of got a tad confusing when i got to this part of the setup and it is only the first page. Or is it just simply saying that, find the centre of the secondary mirror and then just lower it down towards the primary mirror by the vales given ( in my case something like .18" ) The rest seams to read ok. Any information would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.