teoria_del_big_bang

44 minutes ago, scotty38 said:

in the NINA advanced sequencer you can set error conditions so if the lights failed or something you can set the sequence to Continue, Skip the instruction, Abort or run the Sequence End Instructions.

That's good to know, I will have to take a deep breath and start looking at the advanced sequencer.

44 minutes ago, scotty38 said:

I thought the heater on the flat panel was for the LED itself rather than the scope. I imagine if it dews up while taking lights when you close it the heater clears it. Of course, again with the NINA sequence you can set a delay before taking any flats etc to give it time to clear.

Ah well that's what I originally thought and was in discussion with Pavle for sometime before I purchased this panel and the rotator and I asked the question.

And the reply 

So looks like the quote in your last reply is an recent addition after chatting about it being no use for the optics on my scope, so maybe this is something I need to test as so far I think I left it off all the time.
How good it is for the panel I am not sure as it is on the outside of the dew shield but like you say maybe switch it on when flap is closed and wait several minutes - I need to dew the panel up on a chilly night and test if it works.

Steve 

Justin case you missed it I did a bit of a review of the DSD panel

DSD Flap Panel

Steve

Product

•  Deep Sky Dad Flap Panel enables automation of making flats, protecting your optics from unwanted dust when not imaging and (optionally) preventing dewing issues with built in heater.
• DSD are currently offering 3 following variations of flap panel:
  • Aperture up to 84mm - 250 Euros (without VAT)
    • Askar 200mm (ACL200)
    • Askar FRA400
    • Askar FMA230
    • Askar FRA400
    • SkyWatcher Equinox 80 Pro
    • Sharpstar 61EDPH
    • TS-Optics PhotoLine 60 mm f/6 FPL53 Apo
    • William Optics Gran Turismo GT81 IV
    • William Optics RedCat 51
    • William Optics RedCat 71
    • William Optics Zenithstar 73
    • William Optics Zenithstar 81 APO
  • Aperture up to 134mm - 300 Euros (without VAT)
    • Askar FRA600
    • Officina Stellare Hiperapo 115
    • Sigma 105mm F1.4 Art
    • StellaMira 90mm ED Triplet f/6
    • Takahashi FSQ 85 EDXP
    • Takahashi FSQ 106 EDX4
    • TS-Optics CF-APO 90mm FPL55
    • TS-Optics PHOTOLINE 115mm
    • TS Photoline 130
    • Vixen AX103S
• Apertures over 134mm - 350 Euros (without VAT)
  • Explore Scientific ES127
  • Skywatcher Esprit ED120

Prices are correct at current time of writing this (Jan 2022), there is an optional heater band incorporated into panel mounting ring at an additional cost of 50 Euros and delivery to UK via DHL is 24 Euros.
Don’t forget these are without VAT, if importing into UK there will be about another 23% to add for VAT and handling fees.

When I bought mine back in August 2021 a version for the Esprit 100ED was not available (still not on shop website for some reason) but you can email Pavle Gartner with your dimensions and he will quote you for one your size.
If you do this just be careful of the dimensions you give as I got it wrong. The end of the dew shield has a black ring that is a slightly larger diameter, and it is the diameter of that ring I should have given but I gave the diameter of the shield itself, so when it arrived it did not quite fit.
Pavle kindly offered to print another part and just charge for postage but as I had a 3D printer I was able to easily draw up a replacement in CAD and print my own. The best thing to do (I guess) is to measure the inner diameter of the scope lens cap.

In use the flat panel is a dream. With my CMOS camera I like to take flats at least 3 seconds exposure. With this I can not only ensure all flats are at least this exposure I can actually make sure they are all the same exposure length, and all have the correct ADU required. Unless I am missing something (can't rule that out ever I am finding out) it just does everything I need.

I was sceptical at first that the range of brightness would easily cover doing flats in LRGB and my ultra NB filters.
With my old Aurora panel if I had to use filters over the panel for LRGB to reduce the intensity.
If I didn't then the exposures were too short at sub 1 second and this does not seem to bode well for CMOS cameras, alternatively using a manual dimmer on it tended to give me intermittent banding on the flats, so also was not an option for me.
Also, even at full brightness, the Ha exposures were around 25 seconds and SII were around 32 seconds so took a while to take them all.
Because of the lengthy subs for NB and having to use a filter over the flat panel (or pieces of white paper) in between taking NB and LRGB flats (if I needed to take them all) it was a bit of a faff with this old panel.

The DSD seems to have a vast range of intensities, from 0 (off) to 4096 (Max).
Even for Lum flats, where the panel is very dim, the illumination seems even, I don't seem to need a filter or a piece of paper to get even illumination.
To give you an idea how different the intensities are it needs a level around 20 for Lum flats and around 2000 for SII. So SII is 100 times brighter (if it is linear I do not really know that) to get the same 4 second exposures Lum as SII and I could easily achieve 4 second exposures for all filters.

So even with a 3.5 Nm SII filter I can get 50% ADU at 4 seconds with a brightness setting at 2000, the maximum brightness goes up to 4096 so still only half the potential brightness, so if you think you do need a filter or a piece of white paper to get even illumination you probably can still get the ADU with it.

Using with EKOS

I originally used this with EKOS and at that time decided to use 3 second exposures for all my flats (although currently use 4 seconds).

In order to get approximately 3 second exposures, I experimented with taking flats at various light intensities and seeing what the ADU was and so I found what light intensity was required to get approximately 3 second exposures and you can then type these into EKOS so when that particular filter is selected it automatically sets the light intensity to the programmed value.
The values in the image above are what I needed to get 50% ADU for 3 second exposures.

However, because EKOS will only select the light intensity you set in this option tab for each filter, If I used the automatic flat calibration option in EKOS to get the right ADU then the exposures would be approximately 3 seconds but would not be exact and would be 2.87, or 3.14 etc.
So if you wanted flat darks exactly the same exposures as the flats this would mean also taking darks at the same odd exposure times each session.
But I did not want to be doing this, I wanted to use a dark from a library of darks taken say once a year like most people do with lights and I wanted them to be the same exposure time exactly which meant having flats ALL at 3 seconds exactly. All this means is turning of the automatic ADU calibration and just set 3 second exposure lengths for all flats, because you already have set the correct light intensity then all it means it you may not get exactly 50% ADU but all should be pretty close and absolutely fine for use as flats.

Using with NINA

I recently have changed to using NINA, mainly because I wanted to return to a Windows based sequencer.
NINA is even easier, it has the same pre-sets at in EKOS bit also has two options to automate the flats and give the correct ADU. It has the method where it keeps changing the exposure time until it achieves the correct ADU or you can select it to keep a constant exposure time and change the light intensity to achieve the correct ADU.

Above shows the panel intensities for 4 second flats that NINA used to get 50% ADU. So that’s as low as 18 for Lum and as high as 2102 for SII.

Whether using EKOS or NINA it is just a matter of adding the flats to the end of a nights sequence, probably to start while it is still dark but when its now too light for good light frames. When it gets to taking these flats, the panel will automatically close, turn the panel LEDs on at the correct intensity for the filter and will automatically take the desired number of flats.
When all flats are taken it will turn off the light and go through any shut down procedure set up in the sequencer, including leaving the panel closed with light off to protect your scope lens from unnecessary exposure to the weather and other contaminants.

The fact that so long as the sequence doesn't get interrupted flats are taken automatically is just great, leave everything sequencing all night then in the morning just shut down and take everything inside (assuming no obsy).
I am not sure yet what would happen if it got cloudy or guiding went wrong if it would stop taking all the lights but still take the flats. I think in NINA it might, but probably in EKOS it would not take the flats either, but even if NINA is the same maybe I can suggest otherwise as they always seem willing to introduce suggestions from users.

And being able to cover the scope at the end of a session or I guess if imaging stops due to clouds is a real plus.

There are several magnets embedded in the flap outer that match up with magnets in the fixed part around the scope dew shield that snap the lid firmly shut, so it stays there, and it can remove power from the motor.
However, I personally would not trust this closure to be able to take darks. maybe if it was still dark outside, or if the rig was in a very dark garage it would work satisfactory, but I prefer to take a library of darks once a year that covers all my needs, including the 3 or 4 second darks for use with the flats, using the proper scope cap or with the camera removed and covered in foil. I would not guarantee no light leakage if using the flap in a shut position.
Taking the cover off is not difficult and only needs one screw untightening, so taking darks later is not a huge issue.

The only downside I have found is that for Darks I would not rely on it to fully seal the sensor from any light.

I have only mentioned EKOS and NINA sequencing software because that all I have used but I think is also compatible with others, after all it has both INDI and ASCOM drivers.

Operation of both the flap and LED light panel can be done from 3^rd party software such as NINA or EKOS, or via a small windows program available from DSD.

Manual operation is possible via built in button.

• Single press of button opens/closes the panel
• If you press the button again while moving, the flap stops at current position
• Long press turns LED light ON/OFF. This can come handy if you need a lamp while working in
the dark.

I haven’t mentioned the optional built in heater.
Mine has this extra but to be honest I have never really used it.
I originally asked whether this heater was intended for use as a replacement for the optics dew band or for the panel light itself. The reply suggested it was originally intended for the optics but that for loger scopes like my Esprit it would probably not be very effective due to the distance away from the lens and was more intended for shorter scopes like the Redcat.
However I could not resist buying the option to try it.
The Esprit has a pretty long dew shield and so it means the heater it around 200 mm away from the lens and in my opinion is not effective there.
Now I know positioning of dew bands is a bit controversial and some will wrap them around where the lens is, others say in front of them to heat the air up inside the shield in front of the lens, but I think 200 mm away is just too far away and so still use my dew band (I won’t say where as I don’t want to get into that argument 😊 ).
Besides for an extra 50 Euros you can get two decent bands for that so probably not worth it, yes they then need a separate 12V supply but I will leave that up to you to make the decision.

However, looking at the website recently there is an additional comment which suggests it may also be used to combat dew on the light panel. As I have only just been made aware of this, thanks to @scotty38 I need to put this to the test. I can see that would work so long as you had some delay maybe between closing the flap and starting taking the flats.
I will test when I can and update this review 🙂 
The website states: "But that is not all! For those with humid conditions, we are also offering an optional accessory – built in heater, which can dry up the dew off the LED panel. And for smaller telescopes it can even take care of optics dewing. Note: for major dewing and larger optics which have bigger lens, which is further away from the front of the dew shield we still recommend dedicated dew strip."

In summary, I am really pleased with this panel and so glad I bought it, flats are now so easy it’s unbelievable. I think for the price it is worth it and the only negatives I have found are not being able to take darks with it fitted (my opinion) and the heater is not really of any use.
 

Cost from £340 for the small version to £460 for the biggest version including delivery to UK including taxes in duty (without heater).

I am not fully sure what tests I can do to give evidence of how good it actually is as a flat light source. If anyone has a suggestion let me know and I will willingly give it a go.

Steve

If it is similar to the HEQ5 there should be two taper bearings inside one on the dec and one on the ra, if you replaced those you have to be super careful how much pre-load you put on them when tightening the nut that brings the two halves together, it really is just a tad (I mean a tad) more than hand tight otherwise the axis may still be smooth but the extra pressure will mean the axis stalls very easily, although more noticeable if you slew it at full speed I suppose a quick sharp movement when dithering could cause it to stall and may then interfere with the tracking.

Is there any chance you have replaced these and over tightened them ?

In the HEQ5 they are as below.

Steve

I assume the PS is the 10A version ?

I did have a PPBA that ran without issues at all but like most replies here I did not run the mount via it. The main reason  why was it was easier to wire that way. With the PPBA mounted on the scope I could use relatively short usb and power cables keeping eveything neat but if I needed to run a cable to the mount (I-Optron CEM60 I needed a loo[p of cable as the PPBA moved with the scope and the mount supply port was static and this is what I was trying to avoid with the PPBA so the mount had its own cable back to its own supply.

If the PS is the 10A version then it should cope with your load so not too sure why you have this issues, all I can think of is that  although the mount is rated at 11-16V 4A then it may only take 4A (I suspect less even when fast slewing, best guess is between 2 and 3A but could be wrong) the initial accelleration of the steppers could for a short while take quite an amperage until they are moving properly. So maybe this initial drop in essense is very short but just looks more obvious because the update of the readout is fairlyslow and that initial drop is enough to make the PPBA cut out with low voltage.

Just my initial thoughts, can you try powering your mount speperately ? or is there a particular reason why you want to power the mount via the PPBA ?

Steve

4 minutes ago, scotty38 said:

Interesting about the flat darks though as I always take those at exactly the same exposure as the equivalent flat which NINA does easily but of course if the flat panel doesn't seal 100%..... I am assuming that given the flats are "quite a long exposure" that the dark side would be important ie a dark of 3 seconds would gave different characteristics to a dark of 1 second.

I suppose I could take them mid session while it's still dark, that's the beauty of the NINA sequencer it'll do that easily and wouldn't eat in to much of the imaging time,...

I also want them same exposure (even though I use PI which will accept different exposure darks and scale them for you - but I like everything to be just so) which is why I love this new DSD panel because I can ensure my flats are all the correct ADU AND all are exactly 4 seconds (not 3,93, or 4,28 etc) , NINA can use the intensity method to change intensity automatically rather than adjusting the exposure time. 

Unfortunately you cannot do that with a manual intensity but with this DSD panel and NINA you do not need to take flat darks every session as you know they will all be 3 seconds, or 4 seconds depending on what you decide, so just take those dark frames once either with the panel shut in a very dark room, or if you are over particular like me remove the panel and fit the OTA cover. Because you only need to do it one time a year or so it is just part of your dark library, you know all flats in future will be the same exact exposure time.

So easy.

Steve

38 minutes ago, scotty38 said:

Agree totally. I guess we could get back to the original topic, how are you finding the flat panel? I'm liking the idea of the automation and the psychology of covering the scope once imaging is finished...

It brilliant as far as I can see.
Unless I am missing something (can't rule that out ever I am finding out) it just does everything I need.
I was sceptical at first that the range of brightness would easily cover doing flats in LRGB and my ultra NB filters as with my old Aurora panel if I had to use filters over the panel for LRGB to reduce the intensity. If I didn't then the exposures were too short at sub 1 second and this does not seem to bode well for CMOS cameras, alternatively using a dimmer on it tended to give me intermittent banding on the flats. Also even at full brightness the Ha exposures were around 25 seconds and SII were around 32 seconds so took a while to take them all. So this and having to use a filter in between NB and LRGB flats if I needed to take them all it was a bit of a faff.

The DSD seems to have a vast range of intensities and even for Lum, where the panel is very dim, images the illumination seems even, I don't seem to need a filter or a piece of paper to get even illumination, and to give you an idea how different the intensities are it needs a level around 20 for Lum and 2000 for SII so SII is 100 times brighter (if it is linear I do not really know that) to get 4 second exposures (3 to 5 seconds for flats I think is about right) for all filters which I think you could not ask for more.
So even with a 3.5 Nm SII filter I can get 50% ADU at 4 seconds with aa brightness setting at 2000, the maximum brightness goes up to 4096 so still only half the potential brightness, so if you think you do need a filter or a piece of white paper to get even illumination you probably can still get the ADU with it.

And the fact that so long as the sequence doesn't get interrupted it does it all automatically is just great.
I am not sure yet what would happen if it got cloudy or guiding went wrong if it would stop taking all the lights but still take the flats in NINA, I think in EKOS it would not take the flats either, but even if NINA is the same maybe I can suggest otherwise as they always seem willing to introduce suggestions from users.

And as you say being able to cover the scope at the end of a session or I guess if imaging stops due to clouds is a real plus.

Only downside I have found is that for Darks I would not rely on it to fully seal the sensor from any light. I have tried in a dark room and it is probably fine in that instance but probably unless a totally dark room some small amount will get to the sensor.
But if you make a library of darks with the proper cap fitted or remove camera and cover with foil then you only need to do this once a year I think and just keep using the darks from that library.
So being able to know all your flats are at a certain exposure length (because even to get the correct ADU each tile NINA will change the light intensity not the exposure length) means you can take these 3 or 4 second darks too at same time.

Its not hard to remove the panel anyway to take darks, just one screw to undo.

Steve

On 23/01/2022 at 22:46, scotty38 said:

@Stuart1971 @teoria_del_big_bang I stuck with the simple one at first then just spent a few minutes getting my head round the advanced one and once it clicks it's no bother at all really. I just wish I could process stuff as "easily" as it can be captured.

Ha Ha , yes processing when will NINA do all that for you automatically 🙂 

But even the simple sequencer is great and easy to use. I love the way you can set it all going and add to it, even when you have finished a couple rows and its on the third one say then you think I could do with more of the frames on rows 1 and 2 you can just up the total amount of frames and it then goes back to them and does so more.
It just a dream 🙂 
 

Steve

14 hours ago, adyj1 said:

Good point, I wasn't clear... 

Using nina with an alnitak-compatible flat panel. There are a few settings like minimum and maximum exposure length, etc - so what are good or bad values?

Although NINA *could* change the intensity of the panel automatically, in the default method it doesn't... And complains if it isn't bright enough! 

Well I have just opted for the change intensity method for several reasons:

• I have paid for a panel that has the capability to change intensity via the sequencing software.
• I often use LRGB and NB n the same night (maybe different targets) so often need to take flats for all filters. If I use one panel intensity then its not possible to have one intensity to suit all filters.
  • If I use a fairly high intensity then the L, and probably RGB will be far too short exposure (not good with CMOS t use flats under 3 seconds)
  • If I use a low intensity to make L exposure over 3 seconds then Ha and SII will be several minutes exposure.
• Also ideally if all flats have different exposures then I need a different set of matching darks (yes PI can scale them but I prefer the correct dark same exposure length as flat or light)..
• Using NINA to change the light intensity just works perfectly foe me.
  • I want all flats to be 4 seconds so I can create a 4 second master dark and use that for several months to come meaning I do not have to do darks every session.
  • It means at 4 seconds even taking a reasonable number of flats for all filters does not take that long.
  • I have an automatic flip flat panel so I can just ad the flats procedure on to end of the session when it is still dark but too light for good images then all flats are done when I wake up and put the rig back in garage.
     

So it just makes sense to me for all the above reasons to use changing intensity if you have that ability.
I would just say make sure you are happy with the L and maybe RGB flats at 4 seconds as I guess on some panels the intensity could be too low to get a good even spread of light for decent flats.
My DSD seems fine.
But, if this were the case then you could try a piece of thin white paper o top of the panel, then it is a case of whether you can get the intensity high enough for the NB.
 

Steve

8 hours ago, malftobe said:

Hi teoria, how do you find the stellarmate app on the iPad?

I too am hoping the crashes will be behind me once the set up is done properly - I’m tempted to experiment with  a fresh install on a new sd card without all the pentax drivers to see if that was conflicting with some other things. 

Running stellarmate OS on a pi4b 4gb using the official 3 pin power supply plug. 
 

Ah, actually (should have mentioned this 🙂 ) I never used the app. I do not have an IPad and I tried on my phone a little but my eyes are not too good these days so never relly got on using my phone as everything was just too small. I always used my laptop or my desktop so I could use my dual monitors and used Teamviewer or Remote Desktop.
It may well be the app is more of a problem than the RPi and stellarmate or Astroberry.
The RPi 4 with 4Gb should be absolutely fine foe either of these.
So many people use either of these it cannot normally crash otherwise they would not be using it.

Steve

Dithering is certainly worth it, but all depends on camera really how much it is needed.
But my suggestion to turn off dithering was really just a test to see if the guiding remained reasonable for much longer.

I do not think dithering is the cause of your issue but does seem to initiate the problem.
Surely the problem is the amount of backlash in DEC.

In daylight with power on but not tracking can you physically feel any movement in DEC if you twist it by hand ?

Can you take the cover off to look at the belts, does anything look odd, could they be slipping, start it off tracking with cover off see if you can see anything odd, can you move anything with your fingers that can cause this backlash ?

I have a belt modded HEQ5 I can take covers off and watch it track I am assuming the NEQ6 is similar ???

Steve

Sorry for stating the obvious but is clutch tight ?

Is a belt slipping ?

But why it seems to go mad after a dither I do not know, what if you turn dither off in PHD2 ?

Steve

I am actually in the process of changing over to NINA from EKOS but nothing to do with EKOS I just want a windows based program.
But I have run both Astroberry and setellarmate without any major issues.
I have had a few crashes but all have been when setting up and I was messing around with things and clicking on lots of things pretty fast. I never had an issue once it was sequencing and I just left it to do its thing.

What RPi are you using ? 

Steve

I am certainly no expert in PHD2 and issues with PHD2 but to me looks pretty good until it dithers, also why do you have so much backlash in Dec.

Steve

10 minutes ago, Live_Steam_Mad said:

I wouldn't worry about the road, it's a very small village with very little traffic from what I experienced, and there is a hedge that blocks most of the car headlights, and if you are imaging it won't affect you hardly at all I imagine, and during the event the Council of Powys switch off the street lighting along the road at just beyond the bottom of the site, so don't worry about lights there so much. There are 4 pitches with EHU left, and if I were you I would grab one quick.

Last year I attended Brecon Astrocamp 15 in October, then SWAG at Pencelli slightly later in October, then Kielder Astrocamp in November, so there were quite a few to choose from that went ahead. This year there is also a decent choice of Astrocamps to go to. Yeah I recommend you get to know all about the ones within driving distance, then book early for them.

Best Regards,

AG

I was going to till I checked what else I was doing and unfortunately on the Sunday that weekend I am at a  I am at a War of the Worlds concert in Leeds that weekend so dates not good for me

1 hour ago, wuthton said:

The difference between my Baader (7nm??) and my Astrodon 3nm NB filters is huge and I mean huge, LRGB less so. With that said there is now much more competition in ultra-narrow filters than when I bought mine, including some from Baader.

Cheers, they the ultra NB ones I have 3.5 and 4.5 Nm so not as narrow band as the Astrodons, and I thought they were expensive but nowhere the Astrodons. 

When I finally took the plunge to lay out £1K for all the Baaders they then released their CMOS optimised ones and the ones I got seemed to have been withdrawn so I maybe lost out there as well.

Steve

Cheers, I must try to get to one this year.
I was going to go to this one anyway even if I could not set my imaging gear up but just checked and I am at a War of the Worlds concert in Leeds that weekend so dates not good for me anyway.

Hopefully meet up with some of you soon though, I hope the clouds stay away that weeknd 🙂 

Steve

I really want to attend a camp, and have been booked to go to two last year or two but either covid or flooding put paid to that.
I just checked availability and the only pitches with EH are those right next to to road so maybe not great for imaging, should have tried earlier.

Is there some way of knowing when all these stargazing camps are on as I think generally they do get booked up pretty quick 🙂 

Steve

Is this one mainly for observing or do imagers attend as well ?

Steve

I am currently using Baader 36mm unmounted filters, LRGB and the Ultra NB Ha, OII and SII.

To me they seem fine, only thing I would say I am a but disappointed with is the very bright stars produce Halos for OIII.

But its like anything these are pretty much all I have used so how do I know I am not missing out on getting better data.

Now I am sure the Astrodons are better, they must be to get the praise they do and to command the price, but if I were to treat myself, am I going to see a significant difference or a very slight difference ?
Also, if things do improve  is it just the NB filters that will improve or do the LRGB also give significant improvements, as these are around £800 a set on there own.

Steve

18 hours ago, adyj1 said:

Getting back to the flat panel, does anyone have a simple workflow for working out the best flats exposure time? (given that the software is automatically able to work what length exposure gives you the optimal ADU...) 

Not quite sure what you are asking for here.

So are we talking using Nina ?
And is this with a flat panel that can change the intensity through NINA , or a manual adjustment of intensity, or a flat panel that is just one intensity ?

Steve

On another note regarding the humidty the camera reports what sort of figures are people getting both when idle at room temperature and when inaging whith cooling on (They should be different).

I forgot to fit the desecant tube and only just ft it a few weeks ago as when imaging it was up to 73%, and was 60% when at room temperature (well garage so probably 7 C or so) so have just fit it and slowly coming down.

Steve

More I use NINA the more I like it, the advanced sequencer is a bit scary though, I think I might be starting with the simple sequencer to begin with.

I love the imaging page and the fact it is so easy to rearange panels to your liking and add tabs and new panels, jut brilliant.

And, the framing tool, just fantastic.  I always found it quite difficult in Ekos to get the framing just as I wanted it unles you already had an image from previous sessions that is the correct framing or uness you wanted the centre of your image to be same as what you clicked on in KStars. This is just so fast and simple to use and the mosaic tools mean I think I can attempt mosaics this year as I was always a bit worried about how to frame each just right with same angle and correct overlaps.

Steve

28 minutes ago, scotty38 said:

To be fair the Discord thing is the one bit I don't like, maybe it's my age, but regardless it does not affect my view of the application.

Yes you can donate or become a Patron to support it by the way.

Yes not my thing either , its more like Facebook than a forum but probably the modern way 🙂 

Steve

It sounds like if I commissioned somebody to write a program and I gave them exactly what I wanted then it would be like this.
I really like the sound of this sequencer.
I cannot tell you how many times in EKOS I start a sequence off and then realise something is wrong and have to stop it, sometimes two or three times before I am happy, and sometimes I just left it because it was near enough okay.

All sounds good and I am glad I decided to give it a second go.

Also I am amazed how quickly and how well this program has been developed, I seem to think I only heard about it a year or two ago and now it seems to be one of the leading pieces of software for AP. For sure if I end up changing to NINA I will donate some money for it (assuming that is possible) I think it deserves some contributions.

Steve