teoria_del_big_bang

I am nowhere near savvy enough to answer that one but I have had similar issues in the past and for a long while now have marked up all ends of USB cables with coloured tags and put matching coloured stickers near the USB ports in order to ensure I always plug the same piece of equipment into the same USB port. Since doing this once I get a set up working if I plug cables in same place it just seems to work and never really questioned why I had to to that but always assumed it was down to drivers in some way.

Steve

I didn't seem to get much response when I first asked about whether Astrodons were worth the money but now changed title as my question is more findemental.

My current set of filters are all Baader (LRGB and ultra NB Ha, OIII & SII).
Generally I am happy with results, although having said that I really no nothing else so not sure how much better my data may be with Astrodons, or Chroma (or others I am unaware about).
One thing that I am not happy with it the large halos I get on OII on the brighter stars. And I did not think originally I did get such halos, but maybe I just imaged targets with dimmer stars to begin with.

Astrodons always have seemed to be the ultimate in NB for sure (not sure how much improvement on LRGB there would be)  since I took up the hobby and then Chroma seemed to be a near rival and at one time a cheaper option but they now seem to be pretty much on a par price wise, but are they on a par functionality wise ??

So money no object I would just get some new filters and maybe ask if Astrodon or Chroma (or some other) would be the best choice and buy all new, NB and BB.
But I am not really on a position to just find £3K at the drop of a hat.
Alternatives is to replace my OII for now which hopefully would cure the halos and give me a chance to see what improvements to data collection it gives me over the Baader ultra NB, and then maybe upgrade bit by bit.
Issue this gives me is I then have a non parfocal filter as Baaders are 2mm and Astrodon & Chroma 2mm. So I would have to at leas offset the focusser or re-focus each change of filter type, also in theory my BF will be out for the new filter albeit 0nly 0.03 mm so probably not that noticeable.

  My other thought I had is that in my flattener I have permanently fitted a IDAS P2 Light Pollution Suppression Filter, really to help with LP when using the LRGB filters but wondered if that could cause so reflections to cause the halos, I very much doubt it but wondered to remove it and try on same target as I get the halos next session. Also even though I know the OIII is the correct way round whether just to try turn it round ???

So just seeking advice really,

• is the difference in thickness a big issue if I don't replace all filters ?
• If I do change which should I go for Astrodons, Chroma (Or other) ?
• Any thoughts on the LP filter permanently in the flattener ?
• Should I try turning the Baader OIII round (currently correct way round according to the arrows on the side) ?

Steve

For Flats it is as @fifeskies says they should be taken shortly after a session, and ideally for each session, with all the optics as they were for imaging, so no rotation of the camera, same focus position and separate flat for each filter used during the session.

But, darks can be done anytime and on any scope, in fact often the best wat to take darks is with the camera removed and covered in aluminium foil in a dark room to ensure no stray light hits the camera.
Darks only need to be taken pretty infrequently, most keep a darks library for 6 to 12 months before retaking them. So best to do a darks session and take all darks for every exposure lengths you think you are likely to use then no need for up to a year to do them again, make a good master dark for each exposure time you are likely to use and use them for the foreseeable future.

Steve

Just a thought about the error in NINA saying the time / date is different in mount differs from NINA I looked a bit closer at the faults I was getting and actually the time and dates were the same, BUT I had entered an elevation in NINA that corresponded to my actual height in metres but the mount always showed 0. I just changed NINA to  zero metres and last few times I powered up I did not see the error.Whether this has stopped it appearing forever not convinced but we will see.
I am assuming that an error of 116M in elevation is not going to cause much of an issue.

Steve

23 minutes ago, tomato said:

My word, there is a lot of crud in space, but it is very photogenic crud.

Never heard of it put quite like that before, but yes essentially that's pretty much spot on 🤣

Steve

That is just superb, a thing of dreams for many of us (but one day maybe 🙂 ) as Göran says there is just so much going on you can look at it for ages and still be mesmerised.

Steve

Ah if uncooled and on purpose I was over estimating to be safe so looks like you are drawing 1 to 2A then so if you worked it around maybe getting 6 hours to have a safety margin you are looking at something over 12 A/hr (even working on the high end)  but if you are getting a leisure battery then not good to run them right down at all it can damage them so probably looking at something around 17A/hr or more.
Also important to charge the battery back up after use and even when not using and stored you should periodically put on charge to top them up as they will lose charge.

Steve

3 hours ago, dazzystar said:

Thanks Steve.

I'll be running an EQ3 mount (soon to be upgraded by the addition of a OnStep mod), an ASI183MC camera, An ASI120MM or similar small guide camera, and a Beelink U59 mini PC (12v 3A). Hope that helps.

So there in theory you have a maximum of about 2A for EQ3 (a bit of a guess), 3A for ASI183MC, less than 1A for ASI129MM and 3A for the PC, so a total max amperage of 9A, if my maths is right.
But, it will never need all that as the mount only takes anywhere near 2A when slewing, when tracking less than 0.5A, the ASI183MC will not ever get to 3A and will only take towards 2A when cooling is 100%, again otherwise probably around 1A, the PC could be quite hungry for power but again if it specifies a supply of 12V 3A then probably will be around 2A (could be less).
Only way to check for sure is to measure with an ammeter or power meter, but I would hazard a fair guess you are looking at needing something capable of delivering 6A as a maximum but the average will probably be around 3A.

So if you wanted a supply to last 8 hours then you are looking at a 12V supply at 24 Ampere hours (3 x 8). This is all a bit of a guess but you get the idea.
Also bear in mind what you may add, a couple of dew bands for example that may add another 1 to 1.5 A.

So then it depends whether this is for backyard or on the go as @david_taurus83 states.
The cheapest route is a leisure battery but you probably will have to do some work boxing it up and adding some sockets. If you are capable of a bit of wiring then this is a popular way to go, but these car type batteries are heavy if you are on the go so the  Lifepo type battery are much lighter, but more expensive.

Steve

You first need to know what size of supply you need and how long you are wanting it to last.

• What equipment do you have to run from the 12V supply ?
• How long do you want a session to last ?

Steve

I wouldn't worry about the time difference I get it every time I connect to NINA (also CEM60) and read on NINA discord forum that others also get it with CEM60 so some sort of bug somewhere but it doesn't seem to give me an issue I click to sync NINA to mount, maybe it will get sorted someday.

Steve 

Yes, well software can become an issue, I agree, because you find out later that often major upgrades of one bit of software then requires latest firmware, or an upgrade of APT requires the latest ASCOM platform and so on, so yes sometime you have to bite the bullet and upgrade, often all of the software.

Sounds like cables and hub should not be your issue, but I would never rule them out, unlikely in your case though.

Still I think the first step is in daylight to get everything connecting reliably, maybe do some runs taking flats or darks, moving mount about and so on, in daylight with a pot of tea or coffee (don't turn to alcohol just yet, that may have helped me but never cured any of my issues 😆 )

If any issues post some screen shots, others may post advice, I will IF I can help.

But tackle one bit at a time, if for not other reason I found that if I posted all my issues nobody replied with advice but if I posted one issue then I did, so found it easier (albeit longer) to get one bit working then move on and ask another question about the next issue (which may well be PHD2).

Steve

3 minutes ago, david_taurus83 said:

Wish I could get images like that after just a few months in the game!

I would echo that statement 🙂 , even if you change the months to years 🙂 

That is a great image.

Steve

Frustrating, I know, also been in very similar situations were nothing just seems to work. And yes also felt like throwing it all over into next doors.
I think often when one thing goes wrong that is not easily understood or corrected we then tend to rush to do something just to get some images as clear nights are precious in UK and it all just tends to go belly up.
And, of course, it doesn't help we may be tired as all this happens when everyone else is either tucked up in bed or at least cosy watching TV.

Sometimes, best thing is to pack in for the night and regroup a day or two later.

All I can do is say what I did in these sort of situations.
First I would try to do as much as I can in daylight when I have no need to rush, I would also totally forget about PHD2 and guiding and just try to get a night or two with good PA and unguided subs of 60 or 120 secs, so pick a bright target, such as Orion if you can get on it from your garden. Exposure length unguided obviously depends on your setup. but whatever you can achieve, and even if you cannot get great subs don't worry the aim is to get your rig working reliably, maybe forget getting a final image for a night or two.

So in daylight get everything to connect, reliably, so you can shut down and each time you power up again it all connects without issue.
Often advise is to reload all the drivers, or reload APT, NINA etc, or upgrade Firmware, I always found most times this did nothing for me, I guess sometimes it is needed, but always bear in mind if it was working and you have not upgraded any software then it should not need re-installing (as a rule anyway).

I know there are other issues you are concerned with but please try in daylight to get all equipment (not PHD2 for now) to connect.
Things that might cause issues are USB leads, I had endless issues with these early days, then ordered all new good quality Lindy Cromo line cables (they are not over expensive) and it cured a host of issues I was having, also if any are then suspect throw em away, don't put them to one side otherwise one day they will end up back on your rig and causing intermittent issues.
Don't use long USB cables (up to 2M best, max 3M if you must) and definitely don't use repeater cables (at least till you have it all working reliably)

Another big issue caused me no end of issues was using cheap USB hubs. Usually laptops do not have enough USB ports to connect all equipment directly but I always used to connect what I could without a USB hub to start with when I had issues.
So for instance connect main camera direct to laptop and connect, make sure it connects and then use it to take some darks or flats, ,make sure it works flawlessly.
Then connect the FW to another USB port and get then both working.

Carry on until you run out of ports, if you still have other equipment to connect then maybe disconnect one of the least used items, such as a focusser, and connect all equipment direct to laptop until you are happy all equipment works, all cables are good etc.
Then if you need a USB hub introduce that and see if that causes issues, you may need to try many times as often the issues are intermittent. But, honestly the amount of threads I read in my early days where USB hubs and or cables turned out to be the issues was unbelievable.
In my case my issues were mostly some dodgy cable and a dodgy hub, so not just one thing, which is why it took me so long to diagnose the issue as I would replace a cable and it seemed to work then days later similar issues, and I would start swapping cables and I think the original dodgy cable then ended up back in the loop.

Anyway sorry to go on but that would be my first step and I really cannot stress to use good quality cables and if you use a hub then a good hub not a cheapie from Amazon (not that I am suggesting you are 🙂 ).

Also maybe list all your equipment and how it connects to your laptop. it may help people to help you, and any screen shots of errors.

I hope you can cure your issues soon 🙂 

Steve

I was going to reply but you are in good hands now with @Stuart1971.

I used EKOS for a fair while and love it, if it helps I have attached how mine was setup, one for EKOS and one for INDI (may or may not help)

Steve

2021-09-02.docx 2020-05-29.docx

I too would recommend Juan at cheap astrophotography, his email address was as below when I had my camera modded, I don't know if still the same but worth a try.
I also seem to think that I maybe did not get replies over the weekend but was quick to reply midweek.

juan_fierros@yahoo.co.uk

Steve

Can you take some screen shots of your profile and what it says when you try to connect ?

Steve

That is a very nice image and the makings of a great image with a bit more data 🙂 
The Esprit 150 really comes into its own with smaller targets like this, my 100ED needs a very heavy crop on this target.

That's one hell of an imaging rig you have 🙂 

Steve

Firstly the plate solver is looking for the database in the directory C:\ZWOASI\ASTAPPlateSolve\astap_solver but you are saying you put the download in C:\Program Files\astap 

So in NINA you need to point it to the correct directory in the box ringed in red below:

Then in that directory make sure you have unzipped the database and have lots of files like below:

Steve.

Orion is there bit its a very widefield view,

Steve

Well  the last couple of posts have cheered me up on this sodden wet night but probably not helped a great deal 🙂 

We find it fun don't we - don't all cheer at once 🙂 

Steve 

1 minute ago, CloudMagnet said:

I've been considering the same recently, problem is I just don't think astrophotography is much of a spectator sport

Ha Ha, for me thats the quote of the year on SGL so far.
I think that's probably what @AstroNebulee is worried about, but worth a go and throw some wine in just in case 🙂 

Steve

Ah Asair pro, missed that, no experience with it but assume you plate solve with it, and as above the live stack could be impressive.
 

I do not know exactly what imaging software you use but I always think if you use Stellarium and show them whats in the night sky at the exact time you are imaging and then demonstrate how you can click and go to a target, then platesolve and get the exact framing that is very impressive (well it impressed me no end only a couple of years ago when I stared plate solving). Then just to even get a feint outline of that target would impress.

So as I say not sure if you use plate solving but just a thought.
 

Biggest problem might be ordering a clear night for an organised get together, but you are in one of the better parts of UK for it, God knows how many get togethers I would need in Yorkshire to get a clear night 🙂 

Do they drink ?
If so plying them with some wine works well to impress 🙂 

Seriously though what you are doing is not easy, I have had a few friends that have seen my images and want to come round one night, but always put them off, as I think they expect to look through the scope, or on the screen, and see Hubble quality images in real time and no idea what actually goes into the images.

Steve

Why just so short exposure, I think it would be impressive but maybe with 2 to 3 minute subs, if your setup can track well enough, and whilst the exposure is on bring up an image (taken of the web( ) of the target you are imaging and maybe a quick explanation of how you would normally stack the images to create a more impressive final image.

Steve