teoria_del_big_bang

3 minutes ago, bottletopburly said:

Is the path to platesove2 correct , does it need a blind solve as I thought it used solve as it roughly knows co-ordinates  and uses go to++ to recenter, maybe @Yoddha will know.

Sorry @bottletopburly the above reply was done before I saw your post. I would prefer to not blind solve and use the scope position as an approximate position but cannot see in APT how to do that. I am sure it is me as there must be a way.

Regarding the path, I think it is correct but will check, I assummed it was also doing a blind solve before the flip but maybe not so uses different software.

Steve

I assume it is just how APT works. In the past when it worked correctly with my HEQ5 it plate solved just to find the exact position it was on then flips, takes another default exposure (exactly same as image before the flip) then plate-solves again and then adjusts position (so usually mount is  not quite centered so will move again a very small amount.

According to the log the position was bob on, so as you say really doesn't need to plate-solve but I am guessing it is there just in case you were not guiding and so the mount had drifted a bit (although that probably doesn't make sense as maybe better to re-center it on intended target - not sure there). 

I do not think there is a way in APT to change that it is written into the software when doing a flip (I think!).

Regarding the Blind solve that maybe the issue, where ever I have searched for this issue it seems to recommend the blind solve after flip is checked in that box. Whether it does not plate-solve at all if unchecked I cannot find the answer and may have to try it myself. Obviously I would rather give it the scope position and plate-solve using the approximate position.

I have asked on the APT forum as well.

Steve

In the past with my HEQ5 mount I did seem to get this working fine  but not yet had it working with my CEM60.

I have changing a few things in APT and last night got up to watch the flip. It seemed to do pretty well, when it got to the flip it took a 30 sec image and solved it okay before the flip, flipped and then took another 30 sec image  but never tried to solve it and message in log

"Point-craft Error: Can't start solving" Then carried on with plan. So target was not quite centered. 

I did stop the plan and then took a 30 sec image and solved that and it solved straight away so then re-synced the mount, slewed slightly to correct position and carried on imaging. But no idea why it did not even try to solve the image after the flip, I would have thought if it solves the image before the flip and then does exactly the same after the flip it would solve.

Any ideas ?

Below is a section of the log when it did the flip.

Also is there a way of retrieving the log after closing APT down or do you have to save it somehow before shutting down ???

Steve

Steve

3 hours ago, lukebl said:

Sadly, I think that 99% of the public couldn't care less about the skies becoming more cluttered, and even embrace it.

On my village community Facebook page (very busy with the lockdown), someone has excitedly posted updates on viewing them and loads of locals are out watching them. No interest in protecting our natural environment whatsoever. 

I was thinking something similar but regarding LP last night.

In a way I am quite lucky and live on the very outskirts of our town, with a long rear garden with really very little else at the rear but still on an estate. Most neighbours have rear flood lights that come on and off but next door but one has upgraded theirs to what must be 1KW of lighting, maybe it is only 500W but it is like daylight for almost as far as you can see when it comes on (and that's whenever a cat goes past). I was just wondering what makes anyone need to make it daylight again in the wee hours of the night. I do have a rear light that I can permanently turn off when imaging but it is 20W led and illuminates my 50M long garden amply to see what I am doing.

For domestic use I just wish there was a limit on the wattage of these things at least. Mind you somebody would then just put more than one of them up.

Steve

Thanks @vlaiv I will be using PI so should be no problem stacking and have also binned th ecalibration data.

Steve

Hi,

Last night I imaged the pinwheel galaxy. 

I intended to take:-

L 120 sec  and RGB 300 sec all binned 1x1 using my Esprit 100ED and ZWO 1600 camera..

However, due to copying an old sequence I ended up with binning RGB at 2x2 but the L at 1x1.

Now this may be a very novice question but I have never known when to use binning so I am still confused as what to do with it:

• Is this data for RGB any use, or would 1x1 have been a better option?
• If I really need the data at 1x1 then I guess I just write last night off but if it is still okay to use and I take more data this evening on same target should I stick to using 2x2 or use 1x1 for tonight ?

Steve

Wow, what a great image 🙂 

I think I too need to drastically improve my processing. I think with me it just takes so long at the moment, mostly because I always have to follow some instructions as I cannot remember what to do off my own back. I guess if you practice and you understand fully what you are doing instead of blindly following some instructions written by others then it will both be quicker to process and the results will improve.

I have just purchased this great guide for PI. Whilst it will not give me great images immediately I think it will greatly help me in the long run. I don't know whether it is something that may help you ?

 http://www.deepskycolors.com/mastering-pixinsight.html

Steve

I know, where did all those long dark CLEAR nights go this year, I hardly seem to have done any imaging this year.

Steve

On 10/04/2020 at 19:17, geeklee said:

the additional $38 shipping was a bit too much at the moment. 

I have received the PDF also with the intention of paying the extra $30 for the print edition but really will be an extra £68 with the shipping.

I wonder if enough of us on SGL buy the digital copy we can get a huge discount on the shipping to ship all to one address then distribute from there ? Should be cheaper.

Also will there be import duty on that as well, if so that is getting a serious cost for a book, maybe just print the pdf's out.

Steve

Blimey, this is an old thread resurrected again 🙂 

I always think threads like this are always difficult to judge who are winners and losers because you can only comment on which shops you have used and often if you get good service you will continue to use the same supplier unless they are out of stock. In general I do not think I have had a bad experience with any astro supplier and from time to time have used most of them at least for an odd item.

Many on this forum will, however, have amassed a lot of gear and may well have used many suppliers along the way and can give better advice. 

It is similar to star ratings and other such ratings they are not always great because when people get service that is below what they would wish they are usually very willing to go out of their way to put their anger out there on what ratings sites they can, and often exaggerate the circumstances, but often can't be bothered to do the same for good or exceptional service so often the ratings are biased one way.

Personally, I have tended to mostly buy equally from both FLO and RVO as both offer exceptional service, advice (unlike many non astro outlets both are not willing to sell you something you don't need just because it is more expensive than the one you originally enquired about), and speed of delivery second to none. Both will also price match if they can and communication is excellent.

When buying small items that can be more difficult as postage often makes up a large proportion of the overall cost so then I may shop around for best deal on postage.

Steve

2 minutes ago, TobyW said:

Hi Gordon,

This looks like a hobby that require many of years of experience to master. I thought learning Nuclear Physics was difficult  😆😆

Thanks for the welcome.

 

Cheers

Toby

Hi Toby, welcome to SGL. There is certainly a learning curve to AP but I am still pretty new to this but have found lots of friendly helpful and more experienced people willing to help on this forum.

Also whilst it takes years to master it is much less dangerous when something goes wrong than Nuclear Physics so feel free to experiment to your heart's content 😆

Steve

Wow, what would you do without the 3D printers ??

Looking good Gina 🙂 

Steve

If it is a genuine SKF then it will be pre-lubricated and should not need the dust seal removing.

Steve

Very nice image. 🙂 

I did this nebula last year (although not such a widefield) and colour in hubble palette was that same teal sort of shade. Looking about it seems pretty normal.

Steve

3 hours ago, Laurin Dave said:

The difference in light transmission of the dust bunnies is only a few percent ..  it’s the auto stretch that makes it look black..  check the ADUs in the affected/ non affected area to see the actual difference..  I use a rocket 🚀 blower to clean them and hold them upside down 

Okay, I see now (I think). I am going to have a got seeing where they are coming from and see if I can make it better when I get the wipes.

Steve

2 hours ago, discardedastro said:

Amazon stock them in bulk, or RS supply them in lower volumes: https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/multi-purpose-wipes/1223087/

Thanks for the link ordered a couple of boxes next day delivery 🙂 

I am surprised @FLO don't stock them

Steve

I have looked for those wipes before and never found a supplier in UK. I will try again.

I need to look at this again. I used the calculator in @discardedastro post and the best I can see it comes out at about 7.8 mm and there is nothing in the path around that, so I guess I am working something out wrongly. Nearest is the cover of the camera itself. The filters are probably more than 0 mm away but the positions of these marks are the exact same on all filters so it is not the filters.

Also thinking about it if some of them are that bad it comes out black on a stretched flat image (one in bottom right corner) then would I not be able to see at least something on a stretched image where there are plenty of stars, but the image below is an image from the same session and I can see nothing like that. Left is a raw Ha image and right with flats, dark-flats and darks applied. These marks do not seem to be present in either, that I can see anyway.

Steve

My flats now seem to show an awful lot of dust motes / bunnies or just pure dirt not sure which within the image train.

I have not finished all the pre-processing yet on latest images to see if the flats are removing all of these blemishes but should I be doing anything about this. From what I recall from instructions when I first started a couple of years ago I was told basically never clean any lenses, I guess I am okay to clean the cover to the sensor ? and what about the filters ?

Or do I just leave it?

Below is an autostretched flat in PI.

Steve

Any DSO image is an achievement and honestly for a first that is very good, far better than my first efforts 🙂 

I have only been doing this for 2 years, if that, and believe me I was the same not knowing how to polar align even, and narrow band filters, flats, darks, dark flats, bias it was all just over my head, gave me a headache at first. But take things step by step, make one little improvement at a time and it comes, it really all pops into place. Loads of really good tutorials about all over on line so loads of places to get the knowledge. Enjoy the journey, it has been frustrating a lot of nights but when you get an image it all becomes worth while and very rewarding.

A guide cam will improve your images from the point of being able to take loger subs without star trails but don't rush to do that there are many targets you can get plenty of data with short subs but more of them.

Just my thoughts as a relative newbie so I am in no place to give advice.

Steve

A very nice image, a bit more data and that could be really nice 🙂 

Hopefully a clear night here tonight, which in the north of England have been pretty not existent this year so desperate for some distraction from the current situation (just for a few peaceful hours anyway 🙂 

I may well be on the same target as well, hope you get some more data  soon 🙂 

Steve

That is a great image, I love it 🙂 

 I managed to get set up on these two last night, just before the clouds rolled in.

Steve

My knowledge not enough to help but following to see replies. Funnily enough it started clear here last night and to the best of my knowledge got my imaging rig out for the first time this year. However, as it does the clouds rolled in fairly quickly so imaging went out of the window but enough stars about to also take a bit of time improving my guiding.

Hopefully somebody will give advice soon.

Stay safe yourself, sounds like Norway is in a similar stage in the spread to the UK.

Steve

Take care and I hope you have clearer skies tonight.

Steve

Hope all goes well and looks like you may have some clear skies, fingers crossed.

I was never coming as if all this was not going on I would not have been here due to work commitments, otherwise I may well have come as I have not yet been to a star party after last years cancellation SGL party. So I did follow the thread and am glad some of you can still go.

Have a good weekend, look after each other, keep warm so not as to give your immune system anything else to cope with.

Clear Skies

Steve

Stop being so self critical Alan there is some fantastic detail in the image and you should be proud of it. 

Steve