teoria_del_big_bang

Reminds me of doing metalwork in school, many years ago now

Steve

Very sad, I did not recognise the name but when I looked on the link above I remember her well and seen her many times. Very sad, she was still young.

Steve

That is no problem but believe me it will be a conversation between two 5 year olds anyway (and that may be doing some 5 year olds an injustice) I am not that technical.

But platesolving revolutionised my imaging for sure and probably was the biggest step I took in the early days to being able to get up an imaging in minutes rather than hours.

So the basics are really as simple as I made out in previous email. You take an image of a few stars (any stars really) and the image does not have to be that good so long as you can see enough stars,. I tend to pick some well known bright stars that I know are visible at the time so I can also check focus as well. Then click on platesolve and normally within 10 seconds or so (can take longer) it tells you exactly where in the sky you are. You can then update the mounts position with another click of a button and if you have Stellarium open and running with EQMOD then APT is also talking to Stellarium and you see Stellarium update its position and you see your scope pointing to that exact bit of sky in Stellarium. Honestly it seemed like pure Magic when I first got it all working.

Now there is a bit of setting up in APT to get all this working and without it all working in front of me that is the technical bit I may struggle to tell you how to do it. But APT uses third party software for the actual plate solving that you have to download (Platesolve2 and All sky plate solver) but these are free and there is some data about the scope and camera (such as focal length and pixel size etc, and also your own latitude and longitude) that must be correct for it to work but there is a good guide with APT that tell you all this.

Then you pick your target and slew to it.

If this is a known star or DSO then you can do it direct from APT using a drop down list of objects but I find it easier to use stellarium, this makes it easier to search around the sky for a good target if you do not already have something in mind. So in Stellarium (or another planetarium software) you can select the exact piece of sky you intend to image. Then in APT (which if all setup correctly is talking to Stellarium via EQMOD - I think) you can slew to that spot by telling it to use Stellarium.

When it slews there the scope should be pretty close to the target, but if it is a fair distance from where you did the first plate solved it may be off to one side a bit. I guess then you could just manually frame your object. But I tend to take another short image and platesolve again and sync the mount again which updates its position, and you actually see the target in Stellarium move as well to where your scope is pointing. You can then put the sight or frame back on the correct target in Stellarium and slew your scope to it again in APT and your scope is bang on target. Often to get the best framing I may actually select a star or even a blank patch of sky just to get the DSO in frame as I want it and then slew there.

When platesolving there is an option to tell the plate-solving software where you think your scope is pointing, and it passes the scopes coordinates to it, this speeds up the process no end as it then starts solving from that piece of sky rather than searching the whole of the visible sky.

Then start imaging.

Now there maybe things I am doing that are not 100% correct , this I am not sure about. Because it is so easy I may not be polar aligning as well as I used to, because at the moment it doesn't seem to affect me too much, it seems to work and guide pretty well (even though it is not as good as others and I do have it on my list to find out why at some stage - problem is often when I get to this stage and sky is really clear I just want to get some data and make some images) and maybe this can ultimately affect the guiding. I need to ask about this and do some work on it.

I hope this explains okay, but if not it is one of those things that is much easier than I can make it sound and works a treat.

Steve

4 minutes ago, david_taurus83 said:

Oiii filters are renowned for causing halos. You could try turning the filter the other way to see if it helps or adjust spacing between your camera and filter.

Yes I have read this on a lot of threads about OIII filters. I think at one time Baader replaced a lot of them so must have been a quality control issue with them as most said the replacements were much improved.

Also on the Baader website somewhere there is a statement that if you have a flattener, coma corrector or reducer to turn the filters round so the arrow points towards the camera if you suffer halos.

unmounted-filters-which-side-should-face-the-telescope

I know your filters are not Baader but the same may be true for other filters as well.

I must admit I have a flattener and my arrows point in the more normally accepted direction to the scope without issues.

Steve

Mine is very similar at least to start with and looks like this:

- Roughly point mount North - When I first polar aligned the mount which I have on the patio I measured the distance of each leg to the patio wall so each time I bring it out of the garage I can pretty quickly re-align it again with a tape rule.

- Mount scope and camera

- Balance scope - I have a stop on the dovetail that rests on top of the mounts saddle, This was adjusted when scope was in balance, hence every time I put the scope on now and let it drop in the saddle till the stop rests on the saddle the scope is already balanced. Also acts as a safety device so the whole rig cannot drop through the saddle before I tighten it fully.

- Connect everything up to laptop

- Switch everything on

- Polar align using the polemaster and associated software.

- Open APT, PHD & Stellarium.

- Slew to a bright star which can be done directly in APT or in Stellarium.

- Focus normally pretty good from last session but if not then refocus using auto focuser and Bahtinov mask.

- Take a short image and platesolve using APT.

- Sync position of mount with the result of the platesolve.

- Slew to target and take a short image, platesolve again and sync mount to platesolve result.

- Take a shortish image and frame target as I want it.

- Check Focus again.

- Take a few test exposures if necessary (I may know from a previous session exactly what I want).

- Start PHD2 and start auto guiding - I cannot say in past I have not had various issued with guiding, believe me I have, and it still is work in progress as it could be better, but often I just want to image it works well enough for up to 15 min exposures. At some stage I will try to improve my guiding.

- Set plan in APT and start session

I myself am still learning so don't put too much weight on any of this. I am still sure I have a lot to improve.

Regarding session software I have wanted to try some other software such as Sequence Generator Pro, NINA but clear nights where I am are at a premium so normally I just want to get imaging and get some data so stick with what I know and tbh APT will take some beating for ease of use, how it is presented and for what it can do.

Steve

And another great image - keep em coming 🙂 

Steve

That really is a great image

Steve

2 minutes ago, carastro said:

I have always been told not to use Jpeg because the files get compressed and indeed I have seen some horrible Jpegged artifacts on the odd image i tried to E mail to people.

Then I discovered Portable Network graphics (PNG) which many sites will accept and I find from experience they work pretty much the same at Tiffs, to the extent I sometimes don't even realise which i am working on.  I used PNGs for creating my astro book which went to the printers and it worked very well on there.  

So to avoid compression.

Carole 

Thanks, I have no idea why but I never thought of using PNG files. 

12 minutes ago, Rodd said:

You mention one of these small servers--but did not identify them.

Its one of these DS211J I think I paid about £100 for it.

DS211J

It can be configured as one 4Tb drive or a 2 X 2 Tb drive which is how I have it.

So I just manually back my data from my mount to this drive and also currently to a third drive (I replaced the CD/DVD drive on my laptop for another hard drive). So my thoughts are that by doing this and actually having 3 copies the likelihood of total loss is pretty low (I hope I am right - I am no IT expert).

Steve

1 minute ago, carastro said:

I never save in Jpeg, all my files are uploaded to Astrobin as PNG files.   

Carole 

Carole, Any particular reason?

I too lost mine but only had 8 images so an hour or so searhing about for my original images.

One thing it has done for me is to make me realize how bad I am for organising my own data as 99% of this time was me searching my various drives and small server for the 8 images. Made a mental note "Must do better !".

Whilst I need to be more disciplined I can recommend backing up all your data to one of these small servers. Okay like anything I guess still not totally safe from viruses or corruption but the fact that when you save something to this it automatically copies everything to two hard drives so at least halving the chance of total loss, or at least that's the impression I am under.

Steve

Fantastic images 🙂  Thanks for sharing.

Steve

That really is a beautiful image. Looks so natural 🙂 

Steve

I don't think Teamviewer works when not connected to Internet, but they may be some workaround using a separate network from your router somebody with better IT knowledge can help you with.

I have used Remote Desktop when no internet is available and could probably have done it with wi-fi but for simplicity used a 30M flat Ethernet cable between mount computer and desktop computer.

Steve

I used this and found if really useful.

heq5-rebuild

Steve

And I get the theme tune going round in my head and can't get rid of it.

Steve

And I love it too, but I think the inside will need a bigger tin of paint 🙂 

Steve

50 minutes ago, pete_l said:

One big question is what do you intend to do with this?.

Is it to perform a simple task such as checking whether the sky is cloudy or clear. Or do you want to do more advanced work, such as meteor detection.

And that is a very good question. I think initially it is just a project for something to do. But after saying that I want to make something that works and is worthwhile. Cloud detection is one aspect I think would be useful but if I think meteor detection is something I would be more interested in doing.

52 minutes ago, pete_l said:

For the next step up, which is to identify constellations and produce movies of movement through the night you will need a better lens and an improved cover for the camera. If you are intending to mount it high-up a method of keeping that cover clean - free from dust deposited by rain. However, if your location is surrounded by trees and houses, it is unlikely that a lens providing a horizon-horizon view is needed. Remember, you can point the camera at an angle, away from close buildings.

So a better lens the the one I suggested above   Arecont_Vision_mpl1_55_1_55Mm_1_2_F2_0_Fixed ?

With regards a better cover is that along the lines of a more scratch resistant glass cover rather than perspex or something much more sophisticated ?

This is for my garden, which is a pretty large garden with no houses behind ours but with some pretty tall trees about so it would not require a full 180 degree fish eye.

59 minutes ago, pete_l said:

In general, remember that an enclosure that starts off waterproof may not continue to be after repeated cycles of sun and frost/snow. Or if the unit provides a convenient perch for birds, accumulations of dust may be the least of your worries.

Good point, I did wonder how people do clean the outside of the cover and assumed it was a very manual process being careful not to scratch the surface and maybe to replace the cover annually.

49 minutes ago, Gina said:

I was about to ask the same questions.  I have considerable experience of all sky cameras, mostly high performance ones.  I always want the best possible astro images as you no doubt already know.  OTOH watching out for incoming clouds is an important aspect.

Of course I know your experience with these cameras and also your ability to get the best out of your equipment Gina and so would be really grateful for any uture advice you can give me 🙂 

19 minutes ago, vernmid said:

I built one of these. Raspberry Pi powered fun!

https://www.instructables.com/id/Wireless-All-Sky-Camera/

Definitely need to add dew control 

I have had a look at this thread already but not yet fully so thanks I will study it a bit more. Dew control yes you are right will be needed I just wondered why some people also use a small fan and whether the heater and fan together work best.

Thanks for all the replies so far

Steve

31 minutes ago, Longinthetooth said:

I can't find detailed instructions on how to install the Fits Liberator PS plugin. The webpage below leaves a lot to the imagination! Would you outline what you did to get the plug in "plugged in" please?

https://www.spacetelescope.org/projects/fits_liberator/download_v301/

I am also struggling with this but I am not sure if the latest version is only a stand alone version and thus cannot be used as a plugin.

Steve

Whilst this prolonged period of endless cloud is upon us I am trying to get this build on the way as I have been thinking about it for some time. I know there is lots of info about in this forum and other sites and have done a fair bit of studying but as many SGL members have made some fantastic cameras thought I would just seek any advance or warnings what not to do and what I should do first before buying anything.

I do not intend anything to be revolutionary so will follow what seems most have done before but want to start off considering most issues people have already encountered and try to get a working model without building it and then changing everything, or at least attempt this although that may not be the end result as so often happens.

• ZWO ASI224 camera - I have one of these and would like to use as I think it should suffice but always open to suggestions.
• I originally thought to use the supplied lens but believe it is far from ideal. I was looking at something like this but finding it difficult to source in UK. 155mm_All_Sky_Camera_lens   OR   Arecont_Vision_mpl1_55_1_55Mm_1_2_F2_0_Fixed
• 100 mm Perspex dome from an auction site with 20mm flange.
• I am designing a 3D printed enclosure that I can adequately seal with o rings in grooves. But I have never tried to print anything waterproof and not certain whether 3D printing can be entirely waterproof. I assume so long as the filament is hot enough and fuses to the layer below it should work. Anyone any thoughts on this. I guess I should print a scaled down version and test it by submerging it.
• As I have no firm plans yet should I be looking at some form of motorised focus mechanism. I wasn't thinking anything automatic but more of something I can adjust manually without removing the dome, so just a motor and belt of some description.
• Control. Not sure but would like to use AllSkEye unless somebody recommends something better. But I am still not sure how to run this remotely. Do I connect camera to a Rpi and run this software in the Rpi or do I need some form of mini computer running Windows, maybe connecting to a Rpi via WiFi or Ethernet?
• Dew control - It seems the cheap and effective method is a few resistors or one of these Dew_Heater_Module_All_Sky_Camera but do I just permanently have these on 12V, I see some designs use some form of temperature sensors to switch them in and out is this necessary? Also some designs use fans for dew control how does this work and is it a case of using a fan or using a heater of some description or is both better?
• I would rather either print of buy an enclosure big enough to be future proof so apart from the camera, maybe a focussing motor and driver, Rpi possibly and then the wiring, is there anything else I should consider leaving room for ?

I am sure when I start to actually build it I will have other questions to answer and will need to ask or research further but this is a start.

Steve

On 08/02/2020 at 19:48, LordLoki said:

All right I was leaning towards mono and from your answers I gather that it is the best choice when it comes to a long term investment.

I am pretty convinced I would want to go mono at some point. So why not start there and get experience in early. 

This was exactly my thoughts when I went to a dedicated camera from a modded DSLR. As it happened I already had a filter wheel bought of SGL 2nd hand and all the filters, again 2nd hand. After many questions and searching I too went for the ZWO 1600 mono and not regretted it.

If using some capture software such as APT or SG then there is no more difficulty taking the lights. It does take a bit longer to take a set of darks but as there is no need to do that every session then again no hassle and the flats again only takes a few more minutes.  The processing does take a bit longer as basically you have to repeat everything for each filter so usually doing the work 3 or more times depending on what filters you used, but I found it good to get to grips with the software as often I would have follow a tutorial for the first filter then I could do myself for the other filters and so my brain got used to the workflow quicker (I think anyway 🙂 ).

I think there are better dedicated cameras out there but the 1600 was about the top of my price range and so many others on SGL have the same camera it is really useful to get answers to any questions or issues you may have. Regarding the filter then really I think @TareqPhoto and @rickwayne both have valid points.  The filters are probably the weakest link in that package and you may well at some stage consider replacing at least the NB filters, but they will not stop you creating some great images and when you start talking top end NB filters then you can spend some serious money.

I used my 2nd hand filters for quite a while (I think they were various manufacturers but certainly they were pretty generic not expensive ones) and were quite capable of delivering good images and any issues were certainly down to me and my techniques and not really the filters. I have now progressed and bought some Baader filters (I know these are not the best by a long way but I do not have a bottomless wallet and I thought the NB ones were the best ultra narrowband ones I could afford). I am not sure whether the Baader LRGB's actually made much difference compared to my original ones, but I went for the Ultra NB filters (well Ha and OIII anyway still not sourced a SII yet - the ultra NBs by Baader seen to be thin on the ground) and they certainly made a big difference.

So unless you have a large budget and can afford the top end filters such as Astrodons (but they are serious money) but I think (and I am no expert just my limited experience) the ZWO package would be fine and I think many use these filters on this forum very successfully.

As I said I am still learning so no expert but they are my recent experience moving into Dedicated mono cameras and certainly do not regret it.

Steve

A shame about the halos but still a cracking image though with loads of detail there. 🙂 

Steve

Great Video Carole, definitely better than anything on the television this miserable Weekend, that has cheered me right up. 🙂 

Steve

Very Nice 🙂 

I think there will have been a lot of re-processing old data going on last week or two considering the wather.

Steve

12 minutes ago, MartinB said:

Thank you Steve, your own images are pretty darned good!

Cheers, Martin, that is most encouraging. I think most of us are very self critical and nothing is ever 100% to our satisfaction but when I look back over the couple of years I have been doing this I see a remarkable improvement. I put this down in part to maybe better equipment (but this is only a small contribution) but mostly due to just trying harder, especially after seeing other great images on this forum that are inspiring, and a great deal of it due to all the great help and encouragement I get from SGL. I know the future improvements may not be as dramatic but there is always something to improve.

Steve

One good thing for me to come out of this prolonged period of cloud and rain is that I eventually got round to making this.

I obtained an Aurora Flatfield Panel sometime ago and was a bit fed up having to tape a couple of sheets of white paper to it to lower the intensity and then tape it on top of my scope everytime I needed to take flats. So it had been my intention to design and print something to make this easier.

I found that I needed a sheet or two of white paper in front otherwise was too bright for L R G & B filters, fine for NB filters so I bought another sheet of white translucent perspex that I cut to a round shape and can use this to sandwich these in between.

I have tried turning voltage down to reduce the brightness but if I use any form of electronic device to do so then I can see banding on the flats due to the leds flickering on and off and came to the conclusion I would have to use a rheostat or variable resistor, which I didn't have so have lived with the paper method for now. Maybe i will look at this next.

It is made to fit my Esprit but I can print a reducing ring to fit my smaller WO73.

Steve