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david_taurus83

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Posts posted by david_taurus83

    Cabeling solution for remote operation from office.

    in Getting Started With Imaging

    Posted

    I wouldnt make a habit of running mains 220v outside. I have a Nevada 12v psu indoors and I run a cable out to the mount. Yellow one, typically used for 110v on building sites, they stay flexible when cold. 1.5mm cross section so minimal voltage drop though the PSU is adjustable up to 16v. You just need to figure out how to distribute to the various accessories at the mount. Regarding control, I've just started using a RPi4 with Stellarmate and I'm very impressed. Wireless control from any device connected over a Wifi network. If using APT I run a ethernet cable out and use a Startech USB extender. Works up to 50m. Very stable connection. Highly recommended.  Or to keep things simple, you could do the old laptop in a plastic box beside the mount, least likely option to develop connectivity issues. Lots of options.

    • Like 1

    Raspberry Pi 4 for Imaging Rigs

    in Imaging - Discussion

    Posted

    I'm posting in the correct thread now! I never bothered trying to solve the last issue with the RPi3. I bought a RPi4 and installed Stellarmate on that. Works brilliantly. No issues at all and much faster. Platesolving takes a few seconds. I'm working off the RPi4 and using VNC Viewer to monitor from my phone! Last night I tried out the Ekos scheduler for the first time. I set it to take a series of RGB exposures on the Iris Nebula at 10.15pm. As scheduled, at 10.15 the mount unparked itself and slewed to target. It changed filters to blue, autofocused, and then platesolved it's way to centre of target. No input whatsoever from me. After it took 20 x 180s blue subs, it changed to green and autofocused again. Marvellous! Of course cloud came to ruin the session.

    • Like 2

    Flats ADU value decreasing

    in Imaging - Discussion

    Posted

    As titled, when I take flats, the ADU value reported in the FITS viewer decreases with every frame. I've been using EKOS but it's not a software acquisition problem as I noticed the same thing happen with Sharpcap. I've attached a video. Watch the median value. I started off with a value of around 22000 ADU. I just left the camera looping 5s exposures. With each exposure the value decreases. I use an Artesky flats panel with an adjustable voltage regulator. Not a cheap piece of kit so I'd like to think it's not reducing brightness.

     

     

    Really angry now

    in Imaging - Discussion

    Posted

    Hi Alan,

     

    As I've mentioned in the other thread and has been echoed here above, I believe the software is connecting the wrong cameras for the specific task. In PHD, before you connect the camera, in the connect equipment tab, click the button with the 2 arrows and make sure its selecting the guide camera...

    774258930_2019-08-2500_02_38.thumb.jpg.ee16683f93bdaef63011e16b28de895b.jpg

     

    Then in APT, when you start it normally auto connects to a camera. If it does, disconnect. Now, hold shift and click on connect. It should now give you an option  of cameras. I'm going off memory now... It will say something like Ascom camera 1 and 2. Look for a settings button, when you click it it should tell you what camera it is.

     

    I reckon the 2 software are connecting to the wrong camera. PhD is connecting to the new one and APT is connecting to your guide camera. As you've never used 2 ZWO cameras at the same time this will be the first time youve encountered this issue. It has happened to me! You can test this out during the day, no need to wait till night time!

    • Like 2

    Dithering again and cooling

    in Imaging - Discussion

    Posted

    Hi Alan. I'm sure APT uses native ZWO drivers so it should work. When you use it for the first time it is a little different to a Canon. Are you using a ZWO guide camera? Maybe APT has connected to this instead and caused a connectivity issue with PHD and the mount? I have made this mistake myself a few months back when I got a new guide camera. APT connected to the guide camera over the main imaging camera.

    new to imaging

    in Getting Started With Imaging

    Posted

    Hi Chris. I dont want to spoil your enthusiasm but you will struggle to do astrophography with that scope on an EQ5. That's a lot of scope! Great for observing and great for imaging but it really needs a substantial mount. You can of course still image but you will be limited to shorter exposures. I started off with a 200p and a Canon 600D on an EQ5. It was over 12kg with everything on it. Even with 2 x 5kg weights it was scope heavy.

    DSS and stacking. I'm doing something wrong, but....

    in Imaging - Image Processing, Help and Techniques

    Posted

    1 hour ago, Delboy_Hog said:

    Hi David,

    So sorry for the slow reply, especially after the efforts you went to with the data - I've had to be away with work and it's given me no spare time at all. 

    Many thanks for taking the time to run through with the data and seeing what you could get out of it...HOLY MOLY!  That's looking nice!  Especially with limited data, as you say.  You seem to have managed to minimise the tragic corners better than I did, and it has a really nice balance to it, to my eye.  My processing always seems to come out a bit stark and...obvious, if that makes any sense?  I've still not had time to run this through in Photoshop, so I must try it.  Hoping for some clear nights to get some more data in the stack too.

    As for whether I included flats in the light frame stack...ha ha, possibly!  I've made more stupid mistakes than that in the past!!

    Thanks again for your help with this, and for walking me through what you did in the stacking phase, that's very much appreciated.  I really like seeing the starless version too, really interesting to see - I'm assuming that's a Pixinsight feature - lovely!  Hopefully I'll be back on here before too much longer with a bit more data and having had slightly more success through the stacking!

    Thanks again 

    Derek

    Your welcome!

     

    Regarding the starless version, I used Starnet++. Its available as an add on for PI but also standalone for windows. I have started using it for creating masks, either nebula or stars. It's very effective. No settings to tweak, just press start!

    • Thanks 1

    Dithering again and cooling

    in Imaging - Discussion

    Posted

    Hi Alan,

     

    Have you got Sharpcap? It has a sensor analysis tool where it measures the read noise of the camera. You need to follow a few on screen instructions where it simply takes a batch of darks and flats at various exposure length and gain strength. Once the values have been measured they are saved in Sharpcap.

     

    This then opens up its Smart Histogram feature. Similar to above, this is carried out at night and Sharpcap takes exposures of your sky conditions and works out the optimum exposure length and gain value for you based on your cameras sensor values. It's very good!

    • Like 2

    Tracer Batteries & Chargers

    in Member Equipment Reviews

    Posted

    Great little battery packs but you need a large one if powering mount, dew straps, USB hub and tec cooled camera. I had a 12ah one and it would just last me a good nights session.

     

    FYI, if you found yourself short and the power indicator was low, you can still use the battery while charging it. I have email confirmation from Tracer that this was ok. You would however be limited by the amp output of the charger.

    • Like 1

    North America Nebula first night out

    in Getting Started With Imaging

    Posted

    1 hour ago, tooth_dr said:

    I did the rowan belt mod. Previously I replaced the bearings with ones from the local motor factors (SKF) there were a couple of £ each. My head was wrecked deciding on grease. In the end I got some red stuff out of Halfords. The only thing that made a difference was the belt mod. 

    That's exceptional guiding there. My AZEQ6 is already belt driven but I struggle to balance it. I can set the bar horizontal and put a weight anywhere on the bar without it moving significantly either way. Must be lubed with tar! I've been looking at all sorts of 608 bearings..SKF, hybrid ceramic skateboard bearings, full ceramic lol

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