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Posts posted by david_taurus83
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3 hours ago, almcl said:
You don't need a guide scope to platesolve. Just the main image from your imaging camera and APT can be asked to drive the scope to position of your first night's image. It will do this by solving an image, slewing to where it thinks the target is, taking another image and so on until it judges it is close enough.
The tricky bit (for me) is getting the camera at just the same orientation as it was the night before so that the frames line up and don't require cropping once stacked. APT does report 'camera angle' but this isn't always reliable, I find.
Have you tried the framing mask? You can take your reference image and create some circles over some bright stars and save the mask. Then if you want to revisit another night, you use Goto++ back to the centre of the reference image and load up the mask. It will overlay the circles back where you had created them. Then you rotate the camera whilst taking images until the stars line up in the mask again. Or so I believe..
Not tried it myself yet as I tend to stick to one target until its finished. If there is such a thing as "finished" in AP!
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Can you turn that filterwheel around so the anti reflective side is facing the camera? I have had halos with my 36mm Baader. I exchanged it for another of the same and was very surprised to find it seems to have cured the issue. (🤞🤞🤞) I have faced all my Baader filters towards the camera. Worth a shot if you can turn the atik wheel around.
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Full spectrum, as I understand, will remove all blocking filters and the camera will be sensitive to all wavelengths, visible light, infrared, ultraviolet, ie the full spectrum.
As above, just go for the infrared mod. Full spectrum can cause bloated stars. In fact, most filters we use with mono cameras have IR/UV cut for this reason.
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For nebula work, might be money better spent getting the camera astro modded. Is that an option?
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You need to guide. Your tracking with a cheap mount (please dont take offence, I've had one myself) and imaging at a demanding pixel scale. 1 metre focal length will even require precise guiding.
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Does your mount have tracking motors? Bit confused between reading this and your other thread.
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12 minutes ago, rockinrome said:
Hello David
I do not have the DSS file (at work), but do have a sub and flat - in attached zip file.Thank you
Could do with the DSS stack and stretched to see what kind of issues your having. The reason I asked for single sub is to see if the stretched issue is seen in the sub. And how your flats look as they can either work out great if done properly or cause all sorts of weird gradients in the stack.
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When you say pre processed in DSS do you mean you adjust with the sliders before saving?
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Could you post up the file that DSS has produced? And a single sub and a single flat?
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You can handle them at the edge no problem. Just give your hands a wash with some soap to get rid of any oil or specks of dust etc. They are magnets for dust!
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7 minutes ago, Stub Mandrel said:
So the effect of these is a bit like doing Ha, then (sort of) doing OIII using a wide-band visual filter and combining them, except you do them at the same time?
Still a bit confused... the Optolong, Altair and IDAS NB2 appear to pass HB, Ha and OIII, but the NB3 only passes Ha and OIII?
Pretty much! I would say, search on Astrobin with one of the filters as a keyword and see what the images are like.
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Those STC Duo narrowband filters seem to be quite popular for colour cameras. They pass Oiii and Ha wavelengths. Another new one is the Altair Triband filter which supposedly passes the above and Sii wavelengths.
Trevor on Astrobackyard regularly gives a good "review" of the Optolong L-eNhance filter. Credit to him though, he still regularly uses a DSLR.
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I have to say that's an impressive flat field for such a small scope and a full size sensor!
The dither movement looks fine. You need quiet a sizeable movement with a DSLR. Try stacking only the lights, bias and flats. Dithering can sometimes do away with the need for darks.
Also, try cropping out that bottom stacking artefact, run DBE and then try the Canon banding script.
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1 hour ago, Anthonyexmouth said:
i just noticed that DSS does that. didnt see the master at the bottom of the directory. does that mean in future i just use the master when stacking my future lights?
29 minutes ago, Anthonyexmouth said:what do you mean by using the master dark-flat by itself?
As above, you asked if you could use a single master dark in future on your lights, which you can as long as the parameters match. This is what most people refer to when they say they have created a darks library. It's a selection of master darks at various exposure, gain, temp etc for use with light frames that have the corresponding parameters.
I'm saying, you could use a master dark flat the same way on your flats. It would just need to match the same parameters of the flats. For example, I shoot all my flats at 5 seconds. Every filter, 5 seconds and i adjust the flats panel brightness to achive the correct ADU value or histogram if you prefer. That way I can calibrate all flats together , LRGB Ha, Oiii and Sii with one single master dark flat with a matching 5s exposure, matching gain and matching temp. 😀
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35 minutes ago, Anthonyexmouth said:
i just noticed that DSS does that. didnt see the master at the bottom of the directory. does that mean in future i just use the master when stacking my future lights?
Which master? If master dark, then yes, as long as it's the same exposure duration, gain and temp as your next set of lights, you can just use that single master in the darks tab.
The same applies to the master dark flat. As long as it's the same exposure, gain and temp as your next set of flats, you can use that master dark flat by itself.
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DSS has a tab for flat darks/dark flats, whichever you want to call them. Just put all your flats into the correct tab and all your flat darks into the correct tab and DSS will do the rest. It stacks them into a master flat dark and subtracted that master from all your individual flats. Then the newly calibrated flats are stacked into a master flat.
If you wanted to do it manually, like in Pixinsight for example, you would create a master dark flat in ImageIntegration and then in ImageCalibration you would use this master dark flat as a master dark to calibrate the individual flats. Then use ImageIntegration again to stack the calibrated flat files into a master flat. At that point you dont use the dark flats or master dark flat again. You just use your master flat and master dark on your light frames.
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28 minutes ago, DainiusU said:
Are you running off SD Card or SSD? How large is the storage media?
32gb microSD. More than enough storage space for a few sessions.
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It doesn't matter which way they are rotated. The stacking software will align the stars and stack all frames the same way round. Pixinsight asks for a reference image to stack against.
PHD doesn't need to recalibrate after a flip as long as the mount is reporting its position, ie via EQMod.
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Brilliant!!!
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Take the AV settings the camera is using and then switch to manual and lower the exposure to suit.
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Very nice! I've only ever managed Ha myself. With DBE you dont need many points. Just a few on the dark areas. Sometimes an ABE can work well.
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Thanks Adam! I'm done in with this one now! Spent too many hours experimenting today!
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Now with added sulphur!
Captured 5 hours worth of noisy moonlit sulphur data the last 2 nights. Like i said in another thread, sod the moon!
This is my first attempt at 3 channel narrowband I am happy with. Also the longest integration yet:
8 hours Ha
6 hours Oiii
5 hours Sii
Total of 19 hours.
Mapped to SHO, (Sii*1.15, Ha*0.85, Oiii)
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~76 hours nebula and open cluster B59/Ced214/LBN589/NGC7762/NGC7822//Sh2-171 (c-sho)
in Imaging - Deep Sky
Posted
Try this in Pixinsight. It's a nice subtle noise reduction I often use on my ASI1600MM images at non linear stage. Your camera has the same sensor so should offer a similar NR to your pixels. When you open MLT just click Noise reduction and adjust the settings in that tab.