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  1. Anyone used the Optolong 2" LRGB filters for using with a mono camera? Thought as their L series filters are so good that the LRGB set would not have any issues, they're one of the cheapest set also. There's the Baader ones but I've read about the halos they create, the newer CCD ones released this year also seem to have the same issues. Looking for recommendations.
  2. Fitted straight to Hyperion and couldn't get focus on Jupiter or Moon on either the 2" or 11/4". Had put some grease and loosened the focuser locking knob made it easier to adjust but still no joy. Took it back home and Hyperion had the 1.25" adapter fitted to which Barlow with its converter were attached. After removing the Hyperion 1.25" adapter, Barlow fits straight on with its converter. This makes it usable up to around 9mm (18mm/2). At higher magnification the focuser would need to extend more but it's at the limit. Need to think about 2" collar to let the Hyperion slot out further outside to increase the gap. Still, managed to get a view of Moon, Jupiter and Saturn at 9mm. Admittedly I can get 8mm without Zoom so this was more of a test. Oh, also NexYZ has arrived and it's actually very descend although it's tricky to operate Hyperion's zoom with it on.
  3. AlastairW

    Melotte 15

    From the album: Messier and NGC Objects

    Melotte 15 Skwatcher 130pds ASI1600mm-c (-15) 7nm Baader Ha 10x5min lights No darks, flats or bias
  4. From the album: Messier and NGC Objects

    IC1805 Skwatcher 130pds ASI1600mm-c (-15) 7nm Baader Ha 10x5min lights No darks, flats or bias
  5. Aenima

    wizardHaOiii

    From the album: CCD venture

    A h-alpha and OIII shot of the Wizard nebula NGC7380. Processed to resemble the hubble palette colour scheme. ED80 - ATK16HR - Ha clip filter - EQ6 - finderguider 9x50mm PhD2 - photoshop - DSS.
  6. Dan Watts

    Eyepiece Case

    From the album: Scope & Equipment

    Finally got my Maplins case and yes, I went a bit crazy over Xmas and now have a nice little collection of 82° Explore Scientific Eyepieces :) I have yet to go outside with these new EP's as of yet, I cannot wait to give them a run! Got other little bits in there...some filters (UHC / Moon & Neodymium), Baader x2.5 Barlow etc.
  7. So, with the pending eclipse, I have my glasses ready and some pairs for the kids, but thought I might as well make the most of it and try and view with the telescope and, just maybe, take a couple of basic shots to commemorate. So I spent the weekend making a solar filter to use on Friday...which, judging by the forecast, will end up being used a week later when the sun can actually be seen, but I am still hoping for clear skies. It is a very basic model, but I thought I would share my efforts here in case anyone else was thinking of having a go. Materials were very simple. Baader Solar Filter sheet - A4 Corrugated Cardboard Gaffer Tape Sticky back black felt Double sided sticky-tape. Compass Stanley Knife Ruler ScissorsI also bought a 10inch Embroidery Ring to clamp it down onto the scope (I built it for a 200p Dob), but may not need it other than as extra safety a the whole thing is pretty tight when it goes on. So here goes: Firstly I took two, roughly 12inch square stiff carboard squares that came from two paintings I hung at the weekend and cut two circles from them, a little larger than the aperture of the scope. I couldn't go "full-size" for the filter as the A4 sheet wouldn't cover it, so I also cut a 170mm aperture from the centre of each circle, so I ended up with two rings that would eventually sandwich the filter material between them I then wrapped a 6 inch-wide piece of corrugated around the end of the scope and secured with gaffer tape to get started on the main body of the filter. I did this with 3 pieces of card to add rigidity and so that the width of the cylinder matched the diameter of the discs prepared above. I can't give you the exact measurements as I kind of went on a wing and a prayer when doing that! I then simply taped up the edges to hold everything in place. (Sorry about the orientation of this pic!) When the edges were done, I then "flocked" the inside of the cylinder with two A4 pieces of felt cut in half. Then on to the Solar Film. I basically laid this flat on tissue paper as per the instructions that came with the filter paper and took one of the pre-cut discs, covered it in double-sided tape... ...and then lowered it on to the film so that it stuck. Be careful to make sure you don't stick it to the side with the clear protective film (or that you have carefully removed) because, otherwise, the disc will lift away from the solar film when you lift it as it will be stuck to the protective film. I also covered the inner edge of one of the rings in gaffer tape as this would be the top ring, exposed to the elements and it would be impossible to cover once the solar film was in place. Anyway, I forgot to take a photo at this stage, so you will have to use your imaginations I'm afraid. Having stuck the film to one ring, I took the other ring (already covered in double-sided tape) and connected the two to sandwich the solar film in between. I then trimmed the excess Then it was just a matter of joining everything together. So I took the filter rings and placed them over the cylinder And secured everything in place And then just covered the whole thing in gaffer tape to "seal" it all up And there it is. It fits very snugly on the scope and seems to be doing it's job. I still have to test it with the sun, but it blocks out the light from various halogen bulbs around the house with, seemingly, no leakage around the edge where the cylinder joins the discs. Will hopefully get a chance to test it out before Friday. I don't know if the filter sitting 2-3 inches away from the natural scope aperture will be a problem but I can easily adjust it after testing if it doesn't work - I am sure it will be fine though. It's not pretty, but it seems to work and, if I look after it, I should be able to get some use out of it! And I have just enough solar film to repeat (on a smaller scale) for the finder scope. Hope that is helpful to anyone thinking about doing the same! Just remember to check the film before using it to look directly at the sun and, if it is damaged in anyway, don't use it!
  8. The Baader zoom is known for it's great versatile performance with h-alpha. Unfortunately as many of you Lunt 50mm owners know, it does not reach focus with the scope due to a lack of in focus. I saw saguaro's post here: http://www.cloudynights.com/topic/475199-anyone-with-the-new-lunt-50mm-pt/?p=6476959 but the adapters would set me back $40+. I went ahead and ordered a shorter eyepiece holder for the blocking filter- one that is 15mm tall vs the 30mm height of the original. Made sure to get one with setscrews to protect my eyepiece barrels from scratches. Arrived from China surprisingly fast- 9 days from the day I ordered. Box The pieces. Original on left, new one on right. Height difference. Original on left again. Attached to blocking filter. Original configuration seen first. Zoom in blocking filter. Notice the small gap. It's caused by the eyepiece barrel resting on the blocking filter. Not by any means a bad thing. Proof it reaches focus. There's still some extra in travel left.
  9. This video is to help you decide if you are a coma corrector buyer and also to help people that struggle putting things to work with the Baader MPCC. I use a 12" f/5 GSO dobsonian reflector newtonian telescope, different eyepieces and ZWO ASI224 and ZWO ASI294 cameras with spacers and a low profile TS extension as my set up which works like a charm with this CC.
  10. Not many chances of Solar Imaging this year so far but caught this one. AR2741 from the 12th late afternoon AZEQ6-GT 152mm Technosky Refractor @ f5.9 135mm Baader D-ERF Daystar Quark Chromosphere + Eliminator PG IMX174 5862 Frames, 4Ms 30 second capture @ 195Fps 1024 x 768 Mono16 Best 45% Frames stacked in AS!3, ImPPG then tweaked in PS Atb
  11. I am the happy owner of an ES 82 degree 18 mm eyepiece that I use together with a Baader MPCC coma corrector on my SW 200 mm f/5 Newtonian. Until now I have been using the CC directly attached to the filter thread of the eyepiece, which I know is not correct. I now wish to buy the corresponding spacers so to be able to use the optical system correctly, but this is seemingly more difficult than I first supposed. According to the CC specifications, the distance between the flat surface and the focal plane (camera or eyepiece) should be 55 mm. I have verified this when using the CC photographically and that worked fine. If one removes the T-2 adapter and uses the M48 thread instead, as I do for use with the eyepiece, this distance becomes 57.5 mm. Thanks to this table in a post in Cloudy Nights I was able to figure out that I need a spacing of 32.5 mm between the coma corrector and the eyepiece. The post includes some references to spacers, but aside from the Baader ones (28 and 14 mm, see here) I am having trouble to find suitable spacers in European retailers that would add up to 32.5 mm. This is why I would like to ask you for help. Has anyone solved this problem before? If so, how? Where can I buy spacers suitable for adding 4.5 mm optical path to a system with 2", M48 threads? Thanks in advance and clear skies!
  12. Unknown for me as eps. Which makes have best eye relief at any given fl. Being a Vixen fan, their 8-24 is on my radar, but are there others as easy?
  13. Another exotic optic. http://www.astroshop.eu/field-flatteners-other-photo-accessories/baader-2-t-2-fluorit-flatfield-converter-ffc-/p,10816?utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=10816&utm_campaign=1709&utm_source=froogle&gclid=Cj0KCQjwgb3OBRDNARIsAOyZbxAKjjZlYvKiB5GsyMuyCfMTRvArBonbD0DZyXKDS39sttouCbQfPtcaAkDSEALw_wcB&utm_content= Which types of scopes are likely to benefit most from using this, and what types of views and objects? Any owners/users here?
  14. Time for yet another cry for help when it comes to choosing diagonal. I have read the many similar threads and gathered some knowledge (too many to start linking). I have come some way in my process and now that it is coming to final decisions I would like to hear from the experts. Not many of threads I have read end with the OP returning to deliver some review/verdict of his/her final decision. While I wait for response on some thread where I asked about the result, the eagerness in me forces me to write my own thread. Perhaps some of the people asking these questions before can now answer in my thread as experts!I have the Nexstar Evolution 9.25 and am currently using the stock diagonal. My eyepieces are the Baader 8-24 mm zoom and the stock 40 mm Plössl. I would also like to upgrade EPs and there I'm looking at something better in 24 mm range, as well some nice low power for more FOV. I'm following threads about EPs and SCTs with great interest for this (on CN). Can say that I'm currently leaning towards the 1.25" 24 mm ES 68° and 2" 36 mm Hyperion aspheric (if going 2" route).I'm thinking 2 alternatives (including a budget alternative for one of them). I'm looking at Baader mainly for ClickLock (and expect good optics): Baader T2 Zeiss prism with a 1.25" ClickLock EP (T2 part #08) -OR- the 2" prism with 2" ClickLock (splurging that is). The budget alternative would be to get the non-Zeiss T2 prism instead for the 1.25". Worth noting that I would like to get the Celestron f/6.3 Reducer/Corrector. This would be for future purposes of delving into EAA but of course I would use it visually as well (especially if choosing the T2 route). The reasoning for my alternatives: Go for the 2" Zeiss prism to theoretically get the best of the best in visual terms. I would make better use of the 46 mm baffle tube opening. Theoretically possible to combine with the R/C thanks to relative short light path (although not necessarily needed with 2" EPs). Downside of going to 2" accessories would be the cost, EPs, filters etc., on top of diagonal. Would not be able to spend all these costs at once. Cheaper route with T2 prism (especially the non-Zeiss), not only diagonal but also the other accessories. Cost of the R/C would be comparable to e.g. the 36 mm aspheric and give similar power and FOV with the 24 mm ES, i.e. the 24 mm would act as both. Extra plus is the ClickLock clamp for 1.25" with built in fine focusing not involving the mirror. Downside of knowing that not all light coming out of baffle tube is used. To get the wide FOV (24 mm + R/C) I'm adding glass to the optical train (theoretically not a good thing). I'm leaning towards the T2 as it would be a cheaper diagonal and for EPs I would only need the 24 mm and then the reducer instead of a 30-40 mm, so saving the expense of one EP. Then I would already have the reducer for continuing into EAA. The questions I hope the experts here can help with: The old reducer vs 2" diagonal question. With R/C and the 24 mm I can get roughly the same mag and FOV as e.g. the 36 mm Hyperion (technically 38 mm vs 36 mm and 68° vs 72°). Also reading good things about the ES 68° and with R/C the EP should behave the same. Am I missing something here? The logics say that the I would lose some contrast with the R/C (not using full opening + adding elements), correct? Possibly flatter fields though (not important now, hopefully the EP threads might tell soon enough). The Zeiss vs non-Zeiss T2? Big differences? I have read a few posts on this so most to get some updated views here (have read that Baader has changed some things over the years). Using the R/C (f/6.3) with these prisms. I know f/7 is mentioned as "the limit" but also remember BillP's test where he was happy down to f/6 with the prisms (in 2014 at least). Perhaps most important: have I missed some other obvious alternative here? Maybe I have forgotten some question here but perhaps for the best as I assume those who have gotten this far are tired of reading now. Thanks for getting here though!Thanks,Viktor
  15. I see a significant price difference between the Baader and the Astronomik filters, has anyone compared recent H-alpha/beta, O-III, S-II filters from the two brands? Astronomik claims higher transmission, but like to see if that's true. Question is also if a 10-15% difference in transmission justifies an almost 2x higher price tag? (Looking it the other way around: the price of a 12nm Astronomik H-a almost buys me a 3.5nm Baader piece, which would allow me to make use of full-moon nights, which, according to Murphy, are usually the only clear nights for multiple months around here). So far from the charts Astronomik seems to be better, however this post says otherwise: behind higher transmission values of the Astronomik filters there is a higher tolerance against undesired parts of the spectrum. Apart Baader & Astronomik: are there <5nm O-III and H-beta filters around? Astronomik offers only a 12nm piece for H-Beta and the Baader is 8.5nm FWHM with around 75% transmission, there is some potential here...
  16. Rather than add this test to my original thread regarding the scope findings I started a new thread here to describe my findings and measurements using a Baader M56 Click-Lock. Unlike other SW ED Pro offerings, the focuser unit that is supplied with the new SW ED 150 has no provision for rotation during use. In addition, I noticed that despite there being a total of 142mm of travel in the draw tube, the majority of my EPs focus at the near end of travel and I was concerned there may be a lack of in-focus provision. I contacted @FLO and asked them for technical details of the Baader M56 Click-Lock particularly the loss of in-focus during use. (I have previously owned a similar device for use with a 9.25" SCT which adds ease of use, a rotation facility and superb security to all attachments). FLO very kindly reciprocated and provided one for testing. Here I present some results of that test. https://www.firstlightoptics.com/adapters/baader-click-lock-2956256-m56-celestron-skywatcher.html Essentially, use of the Click-Lock with EPs (+/- a TV Powermate) results in a loss of 12.5mm of in-focus. For the EPs tested here that was not an issue. The stock SW focuser comes with a 2"adapter with two grip screws and a locking ring. Please note that removal of the locking ring when using the Click-Lock does not assist with reducing loss of in-focus since the Click-Lock internal flange sets before reaching the locking ring. You can see that my ES 14mm EP inserted into the 2X Powermate was the only combination that did not reach focus (it almost did but not quite). The 2X is a 2" Powermate and I had to use the 1.25" insert which adds about 8mm of depth. the Powermate also does not seat fully in my WO diagonal. I also tested two planetary cameras (+/- 2" TV Powermate) which focused well within the full range of the draw tube extension maximum which is 142mm. Use of the Click-Lock provides a very secure and flexible adaptation to the standard SW focuser adapter and most importantly allows easy rotation of diagonal and camera. For me, this is a must have accessory for this scope. Its easy to use with gloves too! Standard SW set up: Click-Lock set up: Addition of a 2.5X Powermate: Planetary camera and 2x Powermate set up: In addition I used the locking screw whilst observing the live star image of Alpheratz on screen through the Bhatinov mask. There was absolutely no change in the focus position as I tightened/loosened the locking screw. This last set up I also tested at near vertical (Deneb) and there was no slip at all in the focuser control. Action was firm and smooth throughout the length of the draw tube. For the original scope test go here:
  17. Sorry I could not find this by searching the site ... Does anyone know if the TS 9mm OAG will fit between a Baader MPCC and a Nikon camera with the correct 55mm spacing? And if so, do you know what adaptors to order with the OAG to achieve it? (BTW, I've sent an email to TS and I am waiting for a reply. I'll post it here when I get it in case anyone else is interested. ). Thanks guys Mike
  18. Guys/Girls, I have the basic Celestron EP and filter set that seems to be the same across all makes with the only difference of the name branding on the metal carrycase. I have made enquiries for a decent eyepiece for planets and moon and also the larger DSO's and have been pointed in the direction of the Baader Hyperion Zoom MK 4 which falls within my £200 budget. Any user opinions on this ep and experience? Other suggestions welcome! Thanks
  19. Hi all, I'm becoming a bit of a Moon and Planets visual observer and in consequence, I'm considering an Amici Diagonal. I have read that at high magnification your view can be obscured. That said, I have read that it is of little consequence when using a Mak and a decent diagonal like this one - https://tinyurl.com/y75z4n5v from Baader Planetarium. I'm really keen to make my East East and my West West. Any advice or experience would be welcome
  20. A quick shot from this morning at around 06.45am with interesting terminator details. The atmosphere was all over the show, but at least there was no cloud for a change! 66mm ED APO Baader Hyperion Zoom Sigma DP3M A-Focal - Single Shot Paul
  21. hello i am looking forward to buy Narrow-band filters for my qhy9s-m i have already got a baader Ha- 7mn in my filter wheel , and i would like to have a feedback before i go to buy the filter from members who have experience with the baader narrow band filter ,, please note that i will use it to escape from the light pollution (red zone) waiting for you feedback sam
  22. I decided to splash out and buy a Hutech IDAS D1 light pollution filter and purchased one to fit my Baader Coma Corrector. Unfortunatley I have now discovered that the M48 Hutech filter attached to the coma corrector will not fit into the draw tube of my Sywatcher Quattro OTA. The problem is not with the filter; it has a dia of 2" and is no wider than the coma corrector. In the image below you will see the black adapter that screws into the draw tube. The problem is that the inner diameter of the adapter is somewhat larger than 2" whilst the inner diameter of the drawtube itself is smaller than 2". When inserted into the adapter, the Coma Corrector takes up the full length of the adapter and any filter that is attached needs to pass into the draw tube itself in order for the camera to fit flush with the end of the adapter. With the Hutech attached to the coma corrector the camera is pused out by around 6mm. Given that the inner dia of the adapter is "too big" this means that there is no firm connection between the 2" coma corrector and the adapter and it is held only loosely by just the two adapter screws. The possible solution I have come up with is to replace the adapter with a new one that does in fact have a dia of 2", extends out from the end of draw tube by at least another ~6mm and ideally has a compression ring rather than simple screws. The Baader 4in1 optical back looks like it might do the trick but I cannot find the exact details of the interface it presents to the draw tube. My current Skywatcher adapter has an M54.5x1mm male thread that screws into the thread on the inside of the drawtube. 1. Has anyone successfully connected the Baader 4in1 optical back to their Skywatcher Quattro? 2. Does the "M56" thread adapter that comes with the Baader 4in1 have a male or female thread and if male, do you know its actual specifications/dimensions? 3. If I were to remove the M56 and M60 adapaters from the Baader 4in1 I understand that I would be left with an M68 thread. Does anyone have any exact specifications for this thread and does anyone know if I can get a converter from that M68 thread to the M54.5x1 thread that I need? 4. Does anyone use an alternative adapter with their Skywatcher Quattro and if so, do you know the distance between the end of the drawtube and face of the adapter (I need this distance to be in the range ~18 to 28mm in order for the comma corrector to sit flush with the end of the adpater and also be able to achieve focus with my Nikon)? Sorry for the very long post and and all the questions but I am really stuck and would greatly appreciate any help you could give. Cheers Mike
  23. Hi all. Leaning towards getting either a Baader Semi-APO filter, or their Contrast Booster 1.25" filter. Both roughly similar prices, but wondered which of the two are best; the Contrast Booster gets good reviews, but the APO filter is more neutral when reducing the CA in refractors so leaning towards that more, but just wondered what other members thoughts are on this if you own one or the other. Cheers, Gus
  24. Todays quick snapshot of the Sun. I waited a long while for a gap in the clouds by which time the Sun was skimming the rooftops which didn't aid the seeing. 66mm ED Apo Baader Solar Film Baader Hyperion Zoom Sigma DP3M Single shot, processed in LR5 / ACDsee Pro 6 / Gimp I now have a simple 52mm - 43mm reducer ring to attach the camera to the Hyperion zoom. Again glimpses of detail but the conditions today were against me
  25. I scrapped all the Oiii and Sii data I previously took during a full moon (about 15 hours worth) and retook it all when the moon was a bit smaller at 76%. Ha was taken during 98% and 67% moon. All the lights were taken on the following nights: 12th, 19th and 20th September 2019. Integration times, all in 600s subs unbinned: Ha = 28.33 hours Oiii= = 5.67 hours Sii = 5.67 hours The Ha data is really nice, and unsurprisingly the Oiii and Sii is not as strong (or nice). I'm missing that (vital) step in my processing routine of getting the Sii and Oiii properly stretched to match the Ha, before combining. I dont really know how to deal with the weaker data properly. Any pointers would be appreciated. What I do currently: All the data is loaded into APP into separate channels/sessions. The data is stacked and registered against the best Ha sub This produces individual stacks of Ha, Sii and Oiii that are all registered Each channel is processed with DPP in APP and then saved as a 16bit TIFF Each is opened in PS Stars removed with AA and any remnants removed and tidied up I then open a blank RGB document in PS I paste Ha into Green, Sii into Red and Oiii into Blue Adjust the selective colour settings to get 'Hubble palette' Adjust levels, curves, saturation until looks ok All the Ha Sii Oiii data is then combined together in a single 'super' stack in APP using quality weighted algorithm to create a 'luminance' That luminance layer is adjusted using levels, curves, and NC tools such as local contrast enhancement and deep space noise reduction (using masks to apply as required) The luminance is pasted onto the above colour layer, and incrementally added using gaussian blur Cropped and saved. Here it is anyway I haven't intended on any more exposure time for this one, but will consider it, if the expert opinion dictates otherwise! CS Adam
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