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Found 59 results

  1. Hello Everyone, I have 7x 36mm Baader filters in my QHY Filter wheel. I use a simple Orion 80ED with a manual focuser. I have two questions basically. a) How important is refocusing between the LRGB Ha OIII and SII filters? b) If important, then how do I manually calculate the offset distance between them assuming the filters aren't parfocal?
  2. Rather than add this test to my original thread regarding the scope findings I started a new thread here to describe my findings and measurements using a Baader M56 Click-Lock. Unlike other SW ED Pro offerings, the focuser unit that is supplied with the new SW ED 150 has no provision for rotation during use. In addition, I noticed that despite there being a total of 142mm of travel in the draw tube, the majority of my EPs focus at the near end of travel and I was concerned there may be a lack of in-focus provision. I contacted @FLO and asked them for technical details of the Baader M56 Click-Lock particularly the loss of in-focus during use. (I have previously owned a similar device for use with a 9.25" SCT which adds ease of use, a rotation facility and superb security to all attachments). FLO very kindly reciprocated and provided one for testing. Here I present some results of that test. https://www.firstlightoptics.com/adapters/baader-click-lock-2956256-m56-celestron-skywatcher.html Essentially, use of the Click-Lock with EPs (+/- a TV Powermate) results in a loss of 12.5mm of in-focus. For the EPs tested here that was not an issue. The stock SW focuser comes with a 2"adapter with two grip screws and a locking ring. Please note that removal of the locking ring when using the Click-Lock does not assist with reducing loss of in-focus since the Click-Lock internal flange sets before reaching the locking ring. You can see that my ES 14mm EP inserted into the 2X Powermate was the only combination that did not reach focus (it almost did but not quite). The 2X is a 2" Powermate and I had to use the 1.25" insert which adds about 8mm of depth. the Powermate also does not seat fully in my WO diagonal. I also tested two planetary cameras (+/- 2" TV Powermate) which focused well within the full range of the draw tube extension maximum which is 142mm. Use of the Click-Lock provides a very secure and flexible adaptation to the standard SW focuser adapter and most importantly allows easy rotation of diagonal and camera. For me, this is a must have accessory for this scope. Its easy to use with gloves too! Standard SW set up: Click-Lock set up: Addition of a 2.5X Powermate: Planetary camera and 2x Powermate set up: In addition I used the locking screw whilst observing the live star image of Alpheratz on screen through the Bhatinov mask. There was absolutely no change in the focus position as I tightened/loosened the locking screw. This last set up I also tested at near vertical (Deneb) and there was no slip at all in the focuser control. Action was firm and smooth throughout the length of the draw tube. For the original scope test go here:
  3. I'm selling my 1.25" baader H-alpha 7nm filter. I purchased it on amazon several months ago, but have never actually used it, as my CCD didn't work. (Its just been put in a filter wheel but never used!) As such it is in perfect condition. Price £75 including delivery to a UK address. Payment via Paypal (buyer pays fees), Paypal friends, or bank transfer Any questions, please ask.
  4. Hi, I was wondering if Baader's UHC-S filter is worth to buy. I would like to know if it is good for imaging with my 80/400 achromatic refractor, not modded Canon EOS 600D on EQ2 (I'll get EQ3-2 soon) mount with single axis motor drive. Thanks in advance!
  5. In between doing jobs at work I've been trying to find some reviews of the Baader Zoom MK3 being used on a C8 or a 127mak. With no luck I thought I would put it out there on SGL to see if anyone of here can confirm if it is any good on any of these 2 scopes as I'm planning to sell off my collection of BSTs to fund it. I do like the idea of having the one eyepiece which I can just stick in my pocket meaning less to carry around with my my grab and go setup. What do people think then? Is the Baader good on slow scopes? Clear skies.
  6. Does anybody happen to know the light path measurement for the Baader Click-lock di-electric star diagonal? Paul.
  7. 25585

    Zooms

    Unknown for me as eps. Which makes have best eye relief at any given fl. Being a Vixen fan, their 8-24 is on my radar, but are there others as easy?
  8. Hi all, this is the Sun as seen from southern Ireland the 07th of July. Single shot taken with a Nikon D3100, Sigma 70-300mm telezoom lens, Baader Solar Filter.
  9. Hi all. Leaning towards getting either a Baader Semi-APO filter, or their Contrast Booster 1.25" filter. Both roughly similar prices, but wondered which of the two are best; the Contrast Booster gets good reviews, but the APO filter is more neutral when reducing the CA in refractors so leaning towards that more, but just wondered what other members thoughts are on this if you own one or the other. Cheers, Gus
  10. I bought one of these adapters (with a clear filter) to keep the camera protected. When connecting it to the Canon I can hear/feel the locking pin getting engaged but to confirm the lock I turned the adapter as if to remove it and it just turns as if not locked in place at all. This of course is no good if the camera is mounted on a scope and a slight knock can dis-engage the camera so easily. Other t-rings I have lock in place as you would expect and have to have the dis-engae button pressed to allow you to twist & remove it. I have received a replacement but this is the same, it's not the same physical one as I have both at present and was due to send the original back if the new one was fine. Have dropped an email over to Baader but until I hear back I wondered if anyone else has had this issue. Steve
  11. Hi All , Does anyone have one of these filters in their kit and , if so , how do you find them ? Would they perform better on a SW 130P rather than on a Meade 90mm `frac ?
  12. Next up on the brown carpet..... A very nice, Baader Maxbright T2 mirror diagonal in excellent condition, just a little dust on the mirror. This has 99% reflectivity, Sitall glass with 1/10th lambda surface accuracy. Male T2 connection one side and Female the other, both with original screw-on caps. Looking for £125 posted or £120 picked up at SGL11. Paypal fees paid or bank transfer please. Cheers, Stu
  13. Hello people, First of all I'm kind of new around here, so be gentle... I've recently bought a sky-watcher 150P DS on an HEQ5 Pro with the future intention to buy coma corrector and guiding system to image with this setup however, for the time being since I've burnt my bank account almost to the ground with scope and mount I'm sticking to visual observations. Having said that, the scope came with a 28mm (2'') eyepice and it's fairly nice to look through, so I'm not thinking of upgrading that for now. I do intend to buy a shorter focal length eyepiece (around 8 or 9mm) and a 2x or 2,5x Barlow. Since I don't have much funding straight away I was looking at cheaper new eyepices as well as used ones and found a used Baader Hyperion 8mm for about the same price tag as the Celestron X-Cel LX 9mm new. And wanted to know if the Hyperion used is a good investment or if I should go with the new Celestron eyepiece. Thanks a lot, your help is greatly appreciated...
  14. Hi all, Finally a gap through the clouds! Took this picture 10 minutes ago with my Nikon D3100 and a Sigma 70-300mm telezoom lens. Baader Solar Filter, 300 mm at ISO 100 F/30; Raw edited and converted to JPEG using Adobe Lightroom. Click to Enlarge:
  15. Aenima

    wizardHaOiii

    From the album: CCD venture

    A h-alpha and OIII shot of the Wizard nebula NGC7380. Processed to resemble the hubble palette colour scheme. ED80 - ATK16HR - Ha clip filter - EQ6 - finderguider 9x50mm PhD2 - photoshop - DSS.
  16. Hi guys, I have a Skywatcher Heritage 130p and I am looking for an upgrade to /additional eyepieces, mainly for planetary and lunar viewing. At the moment I have my eye on 2 eyepieces - a 6mm66º uwa 'gold line' eyepiece for about £20-30, and an 18mm Baader ortho eyepiece for £50 ish. However, I have recently come across the Celestron eyepiece kit for about the same price (maybe slightly more, but not much) as the 2 eyepieces previously mentioned eyepieces put together. What is the quality of the celestron eyepieces compared to the baader? I've heard that the baader is a good quality eyepiece and one that I wouldn't really have to upgrade in the future. On the other hand, the celestron offers many eyepieces, a barlow and some filters for a great value, but obviously if they are poor quality it may not necessarily be better. I currently only have the 'super' 25mm and 10mm stock eyepieces supplied, and live in the light polluted area of north London. Any other suggestions would be great as well, thanks Dan
  17. With the 2 Baader filters , Continuum and Polarising , that brings the price of the Lunt Solar Wedge up to about £250 - is it worth it at this point of the Solar cycle ?
  18. This is a somewhat custom built, but very nice Denkmeier PowerSwitch. The original William optics diagonal was not in good shape when I received it, so I have replaced it with a nice Baader Maxbright Mirror diagonal, 1/10th wave lambda surface quality, T2 fittings either end. It also has a T2 quick changer fitted to allow correct positioning of the PowerSwitch. Everything is in very good to excellent condition, the diagonal just has some minor dust on it but is otherwise in excellent condition. The PowerSwitch allow you to use straight through, multiplied or reduced views with the slide of a lever, very simple, although clearly you need to refocus each time. Total cost of the components in this is rather high, probably approaching £400 or more! This would be very handy for binoviewers in SCTs or fracs with good back focus. The T2 diagonal has a nice short light path with a clear aperture of 35mm so most 2" eyepieces can be used with no noticeable vignetting. I use a 31mm Nag in these diagonala without problem. It is also handy for solar viewing with a full frontal filter, or potentially a Quark to give variable magnification, back focus allowing of course. Looking for £195 ono plus P&P via PayPal fees paid or bank transfer. I will put this on ABS too in the near future. Cheers, Stu
  19. Marky1973

    DIY Solar Filter

    So, with the pending eclipse, I have my glasses ready and some pairs for the kids, but thought I might as well make the most of it and try and view with the telescope and, just maybe, take a couple of basic shots to commemorate. So I spent the weekend making a solar filter to use on Friday...which, judging by the forecast, will end up being used a week later when the sun can actually be seen, but I am still hoping for clear skies. It is a very basic model, but I thought I would share my efforts here in case anyone else was thinking of having a go. Materials were very simple. Baader Solar Filter sheet - A4 Corrugated Cardboard Gaffer Tape Sticky back black felt Double sided sticky-tape. Compass Stanley Knife Ruler ScissorsI also bought a 10inch Embroidery Ring to clamp it down onto the scope (I built it for a 200p Dob), but may not need it other than as extra safety a the whole thing is pretty tight when it goes on. So here goes: Firstly I took two, roughly 12inch square stiff carboard squares that came from two paintings I hung at the weekend and cut two circles from them, a little larger than the aperture of the scope. I couldn't go "full-size" for the filter as the A4 sheet wouldn't cover it, so I also cut a 170mm aperture from the centre of each circle, so I ended up with two rings that would eventually sandwich the filter material between them I then wrapped a 6 inch-wide piece of corrugated around the end of the scope and secured with gaffer tape to get started on the main body of the filter. I did this with 3 pieces of card to add rigidity and so that the width of the cylinder matched the diameter of the discs prepared above. I can't give you the exact measurements as I kind of went on a wing and a prayer when doing that! I then simply taped up the edges to hold everything in place. (Sorry about the orientation of this pic!) When the edges were done, I then "flocked" the inside of the cylinder with two A4 pieces of felt cut in half. Then on to the Solar Film. I basically laid this flat on tissue paper as per the instructions that came with the filter paper and took one of the pre-cut discs, covered it in double-sided tape... ...and then lowered it on to the film so that it stuck. Be careful to make sure you don't stick it to the side with the clear protective film (or that you have carefully removed) because, otherwise, the disc will lift away from the solar film when you lift it as it will be stuck to the protective film. I also covered the inner edge of one of the rings in gaffer tape as this would be the top ring, exposed to the elements and it would be impossible to cover once the solar film was in place. Anyway, I forgot to take a photo at this stage, so you will have to use your imaginations I'm afraid. Having stuck the film to one ring, I took the other ring (already covered in double-sided tape) and connected the two to sandwich the solar film in between. I then trimmed the excess Then it was just a matter of joining everything together. So I took the filter rings and placed them over the cylinder And secured everything in place And then just covered the whole thing in gaffer tape to "seal" it all up And there it is. It fits very snugly on the scope and seems to be doing it's job. I still have to test it with the sun, but it blocks out the light from various halogen bulbs around the house with, seemingly, no leakage around the edge where the cylinder joins the discs. Will hopefully get a chance to test it out before Friday. I don't know if the filter sitting 2-3 inches away from the natural scope aperture will be a problem but I can easily adjust it after testing if it doesn't work - I am sure it will be fine though. It's not pretty, but it seems to work and, if I look after it, I should be able to get some use out of it! And I have just enough solar film to repeat (on a smaller scale) for the finder scope. Hope that is helpful to anyone thinking about doing the same! Just remember to check the film before using it to look directly at the sun and, if it is damaged in anyway, don't use it!
  20. Are the Baader LRGB filters parfocal with their narrowband filters, the Ha, O3 and S2 ones? I have Astronomik LRGB and Baader narrowband in my filterwheel. The narrowband filters need refocusing after LRGB which means I can't include then in an imaging sequence. I haven't managed to get autofocusing working in Maxim dl yet. I bought the LRGB first for a previous camera and then couldn't afford the 3nm Astronomik narrowband when I upgraded.
  21. Hi guys, I'm looking to get a Baader mod to my Canon 6D as I would love to get some nice wide-field landscape images of Orion and the Milky Way etc. Any recommendations for an active service in the UK or nearby? Loads of websites about but not getting much in the way of responses. Thanks in advance.
  22. hello i am looking forward to buy Narrow-band filters for my qhy9s-m i have already got a baader Ha- 7mn in my filter wheel , and i would like to have a feedback before i go to buy the filter from members who have experience with the baader narrow band filter ,, please note that i will use it to escape from the light pollution (red zone) waiting for you feedback sam
  23. So I've just started in prime focus imaging. The images could do with magnification. I have the attachments to put the DSLR on the Baader Hyperion but have not really had much luck so far with getting decent images. I realise a barlow lens would probably suffice. All this kit is eating away my funds. So I was thinking, I have the extension tubes for the Hyperion. Could I take the end lens of the Hyperion attach it to the extension tubes to account for the increased focal length then attach it to the 2inch adapter which is already attached to the Camera? I guess the only way to know is to try, but I wondered if anyone else has had this idea or had tried this already. Also, :-) I'm thinking the next thing I need to purchase is a guide scope and guide camera. The newt scope I own is 1200 mm focal length and the guide scope I'm looking at is 328 mm so I'll end up with an imaging / guide ratio of about 3.5. With the increased focal length from the 2x barlow would that mean I will need to consider an even greater focal length guider or more expensive smaller pixel size guide camera? Thanks,
  24. after advertising for a uhc filter and never used one before i had to rely solely on recomendations ,reviews and comments .with that in mind i turned down several offers of the baader uhc-s and paid a little more for a s/h lumicon uhc 1.25". i declined the uhc-s on the basis of it being more broad than narrow. with a 8" newtonian i thought a dedicated uhc would be a better choice.i dont know if ive dropped a clanger by opting out but i will give a novice's first immpresion once ive had a go with this lumicon.
  25. Cometeer

    Baader Zoom with LS50

    The Baader zoom is known for it's great versatile performance with h-alpha. Unfortunately as many of you Lunt 50mm owners know, it does not reach focus with the scope due to a lack of in focus. I saw saguaro's post here: http://www.cloudynights.com/topic/475199-anyone-with-the-new-lunt-50mm-pt/?p=6476959 but the adapters would set me back $40+. I went ahead and ordered a shorter eyepiece holder for the blocking filter- one that is 15mm tall vs the 30mm height of the original. Made sure to get one with setscrews to protect my eyepiece barrels from scratches. Arrived from China surprisingly fast- 9 days from the day I ordered. Box The pieces. Original on left, new one on right. Height difference. Original on left again. Attached to blocking filter. Original configuration seen first. Zoom in blocking filter. Notice the small gap. It's caused by the eyepiece barrel resting on the blocking filter. Not by any means a bad thing. Proof it reaches focus. There's still some extra in travel left.
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