Tomatobro

I use a variety of equipment on my Star adventurer and I mounted my guide scope onto the C/W bar and found a lighter counter weight. I works very well.

If its the Canon version of the Samyang 135 lens then you are good to go with the adapter. The Sony version, while being a lot cheaper to buy used requires a special adapter to get the correct back focus

Ha capture is on the "to do" list

UKMON analysis

: https://archive.ukmeteornetwork.co.uk/reports/2022/orbits/202204/20220409/20220409_024010.013_UK/index.html

currently being analysed by the UKMON network. Caught on about 10 cameras I believe. 

3 hours ago, LaurenceT said:

How do you clamp the guidescope to the bar to maintain alignment with the scope?

I made a custom clamp for the counterweight bar. I can move it up or down for balance and rotate for alignment. I use pulse guiding via PHD on a laptop. Guide scope alignment is not critical as long as its near enough pointing to the same bit of sky. You can see a custom red counterweight which is lighter than the one supplied with the SW adventurer.

I mount my guide scope on the counter weight bar and it works well. If the ASIair was moved to the bar it would distribute the weight better and solve the flip interference problem.

2 hours ago, vlaiv said:

and 100,000 years "appearing" period.

Looks like a long wait for my Nobel prize and they don't award posthumously anyway.........

But could not the light from a galaxy just beyond the edge of the current observable universe be one light month away from reaching JWST?

I was thinking about if the light of a distant galaxy has not yet reached JWST could we have a situation where two images taken say 1 month apart a distant galaxy might appear on the later image?

I wish I had not read this post......I have just started with a 10 inch RC.....will take a look at my stars🤨

You might find this utility useful for FTDI and USB ports

http://www.nirsoft.net/utils/usb_devices_view.html

All of us have been there at sometime or another. Well done

Not so good range on 5.8 ghz but excellent on 2.4 ghz is my experience

Also the NUC's have excellent WiFi range.  Windows remote desktop is my software of choice for the remote control.

I found that even with collimation aids a star test on a defocused star was required for that final tweak.

I use a Chesire and the TSCOLLI and with the focus tube wound fully in (no extension rings fitted) the bright outer ring is adjusted till its an even thickness all the way round. On Your image it looks to be offset a little to the top right?

I run three NUC's which run all my software. Input voltage 19v on the lid but run ok at 12v.

Flo do this one Beelink GKMini Mini PC which I will try at some time

I had a master class given by my brother the other day on just this problem. The gain (iso) and black level of the darks, flats and dark flats must match the lights.  Process the sessions separately and then combine the results

My UKMON camera looks south and it records zillions of satellites and reflection flashes every night in the few hours just after dark.

I think it was clear last night for Scotland so the event might have been captured by a UKMON camera. You can take a look at the meteor map at https://tammojan.github.io/meteormap/

Scroll across to the UK when the latest data has loaded and if it was recorded you can click on it and get more data. I will flag up the event to UKMON.

With Alt/Az finders

I looked these with my Coronado PST and they were most impressive.  Saw the proms at 8 o'clock but not the others

It will be interesting to see what happens when you add in my data

Lum 60 x 120 seconds

red 20 x 120 seconds

green 20 x 120 seconds

blue 20 x 120 seconds

Ha 20 x 120 seconds

10 inch RC using a ZWO 1600mm all binned 3x3

I went the for the larger field smaller optics route using two Samyang 135 F2 lenses. The cameras are Atik Horizon 2 OSC and ZWO ASI1600mm with filters

Getting the field of view to match was the only real issue as differential flex turned out not to be a problem.  Weight wise it was about the same as my MN190

I just spotted that the toothed belt on the focus stepper motor is not fitted on the ZWO scope

Its not 100% clear in the photo but if the connection is broken just by the J7 then I would brighten up the two sides and just re solder. I then would add extra support using a hot glue gun to put a ring of glue around the connector.

I know that is easy for me to say but do you have anyone nearby that is good at soldering? If no heat gun available then epoxy resin would be an alternative