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Uranium235

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Everything posted by Uranium235

  1. Thanks glowjet... well explained! Then I guess I could just print off a massive "Y" from Word or Photoshop? And if that fails, I will literally just draw it and then print it off. I know one thing though, its going to be hell of a lot quicker to make! On a side note, will a mask work with a QHY5/PHD? It would be a nice option to be able to fine tune my guidescope for better tracking.
  2. Is there an online generator for the Y mask? As im not sure of the angles involved for that one (3x120deg?)... I wouldnt know where to start! If anyone has made one for a 6", a printable template would be most useful Thanks for the suggestion, I will have a go at it.
  3. I will be taking delivery of a Hyperion 17mm EP in couple of days, and ive just one question in regard to Eyepiece Projection using my DSLR. I already have the fine tuning rings, adapters and T2 extenders ready, but I having trouble with the tricky subject of focus. If I were to focus the EP perfectly without the camera, lock the focuser, then carefully re-attach the EP with the camera at the basic lens > CCD distance of 50mm - would I need to re-focus? This is because using a Bahtinov mask through my cams viewfinder is a bit of a depressing experience... but it works great with an EP. Im finding myself having to mess about taking subs before i start anything useful - just to check the focus.... iffy collimation isnt helping either (so I ordered a laser collimator too). Thanks in advance
  4. Bear in mind too that if you were to order from a non EU country, you may be subject to extra taxes and the risk of damage or theft. Better safe than sorry dude
  5. Hmmm, I would have thought a 1gb lan would have sorted your refresh rate out still, its not so bad only having to go out to change targets! Ahhh... the day when its fully remote would be a good one! I guess that figures out as the limitation of the method, not unless you can tweak things a little (but ive no idea on how to do that - yet). Anyways, im gonna set up soon so we will see if it all works as planned.
  6. Yeah, the windows remote control prog is what ive been using so far. This machine is running XP64 and the lappy in the shed is on Vista and ive hand no issues so far (fingers crossed). Youre right that the signal strength isnt great at the bottom of the garden, to fix that i will need to place the router nearer the window (which means buying more extention cables), then rig the Camera control pro to allow enough time for the file transfer before trying to take the next sub (probably 10-15 seconds).
  7. Cool I might try it tonight then, so now I can do AP and keep the GF happy at the same time
  8. A strange place to have an idea... the shower...lol. In a bid to further automate or remotely control things ive had the idea of using Remote Assistance to enable me to keep an eye on PHD while im indoors. Ive already been able to remotely connect to the laptop and view the PHD graph and contol the D60 settings remotely (using camera control pro). I know I wont be able to see whats captured in the main PHD window, but it does allow me to see whats happening on the graph - so if it did lose tracking for some reason, I would be able to see it from the PC indoors. It would be nice if i could get it to automatically beam the subs back to the PC indoors, but im only on wireless G so the time it would take to upload would be way too long for my taste (maybe time for an upgrade?). Has anybody else tried this yet?
  9. np dude Always happy to share the knowledge!
  10. Yea, M31 is your best bet for viewing from urban locations - but thats about it Good LP map link above too... im in a magenta/white zone @ the moment - but will be moving to a yellow zone in 3 weeks (with a dark blue zone only 20min drive away!!) cant wait!!!
  11. Hey... Im the same height and had exactly the same problems (always turning the scope in its rings) until I tried a different way of setting up. Try this: 1) Setup the mount to go as high as poss (and level it) 2) Before you mount the OTA, rotate it in the tube ring until the focuser is pointing down - basically so its in line with your dovetail bar (see photo). 3) Mount it all up, then check the balance (marking the balance point with masking tape for future reference). When you first fire the system up, you obviously wont be able to look through it until you slew to your first target. But once you do - it all becomes clear, perfect height! The focuser might be upside-down sometimes, but dont let that bother you. Honestly, there isnt one occasion where ive had to rotate things to get a better view since adopting this method. The only drawback is sometimes the finderscope gets a bit hard to see through (thats only cos I use the finderscope on the ST80), but the EP should be fine most of the time - and if your GoTo is set up well enough (if you have it) then you wont really need the finderscope. Dont forget the masking tape! An invaluable tool for the AA
  12. I tried mine last night, it worked a treat with the EP. But when I tried it with the cam at prime focus I couldnt see any spikes through the viewfinder. Would it be ok to focus on Mars first, and then slew to my target? As at the moment, Mars is one of the brightest things in the sky from my location. I could just take some short subs with the mask on to judge the focus, but it would be a pain to have to go back and forth to the laptop to check the pattern.
  13. "Diverse" is an understatement Ive found its a mix of quite a few things including: Astronomy, maths, computers, electrics, photography as well as the physical demands it can sometimes place on you (hence the need to automate things). If I get any more bright ideas, I will be sure to bring them here first Share the knowledge, thats what I say!
  14. I managed to get out for a couple of hours last night and test it... lol... it works! In addition I also fitted a switch that was salvaged from an old PSU (as I found crossing wires is a bit risky in terms of accidental triggering). Also Camera control pro worked a treat, its cool for automatically taking 30s subs, darks and bias - just punch in how many you want, start it, then find a comfy chair to rest those weary bones The only downer was the cloud.... hmmm... a black mark for the Met office...fail.
  15. I think youre right peter, the S must be something more than just a temp sensor. I need more info on that tho to be sure if its worth attempting. Mines an EN-EL9... and at the end of the day it might be just less hassle to change the battery (very carefully)
  16. Ive had a look at my battery, its got + - and S. So the "s" is the temp sensor? does this need to be connected to anything to get it to work when using a DC supply? I will have a look @ maplins in a bit to see what adapters are available, there should be something near the 7.4v mark (or variable). Addendum: Found something here, 7.5v 1200mA - should do the job nicely. http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=32754
  17. Ah-ha! Found a solution after a quick look @ google. The Nikon Mall EP-5 Power Supply Connecter Its like a false battery that connects to an EH-5 power supply, not sure how much it would all come to tho - and i cant find a UK dealer (yet).
  18. Youre giving me ideas man.... lol Its one thing to rig a remote control battery, but a its much bigger project to find a way of powering the cam by way of a DC supply. It probably can be done in the same manner, but its not something I would want to screw up There wont be much spare room in the battery compartment for cables either, not unless I can salvage a few ribbon cables from somewhere.
  19. I like the look of that battery grip but maybe a cheaper solution would be to buy some cheap 3rd party batteries for the D60, Ive seen energiser ones that are nearly half the price of the official Nikon battery, so If I get 2 of those - a total of 3 batteries should be more than enough to get through the most demanding of shoots as I will always have one on charge. Nikon EN-EL9 replacement ENERGIZER EN-EL9 7.4v 1000mAh Nikon D40 for 35.99atJacobs Digital Photography & Video Thanks for the suggestions guys Heh heh its a bit mad how the human mind can be so inventive when the need arises! Its that sort of sprit that got us humans to the moon... shame nobody had the guts to do it again.
  20. Ok, ive been doing a bit of "inventing" and ive come up with a solution of a remote control for the ML L3 remote control (..lol). Ive taken the "stones, knives and bearskins" approach and just used what I had to hand which consisted of: 1) Masking tape 2) Double sided tape 3) A file 4) Baking foil 5) An adjustable spanner 6) A curtain pole 7) A few odd bits of cable Its a simple case of rigging the battery so the electrical circuit is only completed when the wires are crossed. The adjustable spanner is the only thing i could find that would apply constant pressure similar to that of a human hand (a small g-clamp would have worked) to the remotes button. Then I just taped the spanner to a pole which can go in the ground within sensor distance of the D60. Ive tested it with a 5m speaker cable and it works just fine Yep, It looks rough - but as long as it works im not bothered
  21. Hiya, Im thinking of having another session in the garden tonight as it should be clear from 9pm-3am (depends how much snow is left out there). The trouble is, the cramped conditions in the shed and hours out in the cold over the past couple of weeks has played hell with my back (not as young as i used to be!), therefore im having to take it easy. So ive had the idea of using a combo of PHD & Nikon Camera Control Pro. Basically, the idea is to first get it tracking smoothly enough, then use NCCP (in time lapse mode) to take a user-defined number of exposures. Once its set up and snapping, In theory I should then be able to go in for a comfy chair, a cuppa and a spot of QI. The limitation of NCCP is that the maximum exposure time available for time lapse mode is 30sec, the "bulb" setting requires the manual use of the remote shutter release. Has anyone else tried this before? Its possible for me to set up NCCP to automatically do 2hours worth in 30s subs (240x30)... but ... but will 240x30s be as good as 120x60s, or 60x120s? Im using DSS to stack btw. Hmmm... I have a feeling im going to need to throw in some longer subs at some point tho - so im having the idea of "modding" the Nikon ML L3 remote so it can be used at any distance. Basically by means of opening one and using its guts to make a wired microswitch remote, or maybe even radio operated (if I can be arsed to get myself over to maplins). The benifit of this is that I wont have to tippy-toe up to the scope to get close enough to use the remote... but thats a whole other project
  22. Yep, can agree with this and FLO. Opticstar are ok too. But as always, call for advice and stock levels before you buy - then you can be sure youre getting the right tool for the job.
  23. I made mine by printing it onto 100gsm card, making the bars/slots wider to aid cutting & strength (with a scalpel). Then make a collar for it so it fits tightly over the end of your scope.... simples!
  24. I thought this might be of some use. Im going to be having a go at eyepiece projection soon so Ive put together a little spreadsheet that calculates all of the magnification factors, focal lengths and ratios for eyepieces (25-8mm) and extention tubes (in steps of 15mm). Have also included the lengths when barlowed up to 2x and 4x.... though its highly unlikely that I would ever take it to a 32,625mm focal length....lol! - that would be for an 8mm EP, 95mm EP > CCD distance, Barlow 4x on a 750mm/150mm newt. All you have to do it load it into Excel, input your values into only the red fields (your scope focal length, apeture and EP sizes), there is enough room for 6 EPs on the spreadsheet, and it will be handy for printing to A4 cards for quick reference (thats my plan for it anyways). Unzip and open, printing is set up for landscape. Let me know if my maths are out so I can make modifications (and apologies!), im pretty sure its right tho Eyepiece projection calculator.zip
  25. Thanks man will try that. Hopefully I can now use more of the data I collect. I think you made a reference to PS (actions), im going to take another look at it later but from what I remember its not exactly friendly for the beginner...lol. Will post any improvements I make, cheers!
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