Jump to content

Stargazers Lounge Uses Cookies

Like most websites, SGL uses cookies in order to deliver a secure, personalised service, to provide social media functions and to analyse our traffic. Continued use of SGL indicates your acceptance of our cookie policy.

sgl_2019_sp_banner.thumb.jpg.a0ff260c05b90dead5c594e9b4ee9fd0.jpg

Uranium235

Moderators
  • Content Count

    7,006
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    25

Everything posted by Uranium235

  1. lol... sorry, should have worded it better. Should have been: "without going through the hassle of repeatedly taking the camera apart" as ive had it apart 4 times already. I shift one speck, only for another to appear so its better to be done with it completely. Full spectrum would be the last time I have to do it
  2. Cheers Peter Just checking them out now on Modern Astronomy, very tempting. Also if i go full spectrum, I can finally shift one or two stubborn dust spots without going through the hassle of taking the camera apart (as they are on the underside of the front filter). Ive invested in some sensorklear pens as well to keep the CMOS in good nick. Having said that, im looking at the 2" filter in case I want to use it when I finally get the Atik 320e (is the 320e a 1.25 or 2" fit?, its difficult to tell from just a picture).
  3. awesome I almost felt sorry for the poor kid
  4. Thanks merlin, I just thought the CLS might give me something that the baader filter doesnt, or whether it would have any effect on imaging times (+ or -). Still, worth a thought as a means of keeping dust at bay (clip filter).
  5. Hiya, Would I make any noticeable gains if I decided to go full spectrum on the 1000d and use the UV/IR blocked version of the EOS CCD filter? (clip or 2") Currently using 1000d rear filter removed + Neodymium filter thanks for any input
  6. link now up on BBC: BBC News - Astronomers detect 'monster star' Hoo boy its a whopper! PS: Just checked it out on stellarium, seems it is something we'll never see in the northern hemisphere
  7. Who says you need a fence panel? You could do it with a few 6ft poles, a roll of that stuff you put on the garden to keep the weeds down (£4 from wilkos) and a stapler or a few tacks. Build what would be simply a massive wind break - except in this case its a "light break". If you make the poles 6ft apart (the usual length of a fence panel), you can then attach the poles to your existing fence posts with a makeshift bracket (or go to b&q to see what will do the job) so you can put it up and take it down as desired. The added bonus is that its lightweight, and wont take up much storage space as it just simply rolls up. Not sure how it would cope with wind though, better build it tough Im thinking of doing exactly this soon because of a nearby housing development thats going to spoil the atmos a bit in about 6 months time.
  8. Tell me about it Ive had the scope out only 2 or 3 times in the past month. And the forecast for next week isnt looking good either! Oh, I have that filter too. Pretty soon you will realise its one of those things you cant go without
  9. Here ya go: Canon Digital Rebel XSi 450D, 1000D, 500D IR Filter Removal Modification- Page 1 -Configuration & Preparation -by Gary Honis If you follow it **to the letter** you should be fine, but from experience here are a few tips: 1) Use gloves when handling the CMOS sensor and filters and use dust free containers for the bits you remove - that will save having to re-open it to shift a speck of dust. Mines still not 100% dust free, but thats only in the in the far corners so no real need to get it open again. 2) Get a good, magnetised posidriver - otherwise you will be putting some of the screws in whilst on your back... especially the one under the left side of the viewfinder. 3) Use toothpicks/cocktail sticks for the ribbon connectors. 4) Go slowly.... its not a race. If you get it working the results are noticeable and instant, a good camera becomes a great camera. The Ha sensitivity is increased by 5x meaning you can do some lovely nebula work. Personally i cant wait for M42 again now ive done the mod
  10. Are those diffraction spikes real or fake? I didnt think you got those with an ED80 (well, I dont anyway!).
  11. Not sure whether you saw it when it was posted on the BBC science pages about a week ago - but the PLANCK telescope data has now been released. Basically it seems most of what we could see is shrouded in dust & gas from our own galaxy which also rises quite high from the galactic plane. Nice picture, but no useful scientific data can be drawn from it (yet) PLANCK telescope: BBC News - Planck telescope reveals ancient cosmic light
  12. Thanks Mick I know, I only popped in for a bowl of cornflakes - came back and the sky was suddenly full of cloud!!! Bah... Met office wrong again. Hopefully when the weather cools, the quality of the subs will improve as they will be closer matched to the temperature of my stock darks. Was kinda looking forward to getting my first M31 last night too (as thats one I missed last year), I guess that can wait till next time At the moment it feels like a case of "too many targets, not enough darkness".
  13. Finally, ive been able to add to my ngc7000 subs! Though its a shame I only managed another 9x300s before the cloud rolled in. I reckon i had enough subs (19) to use entropy mode in DSS and the result is looking much better than my first effort, got it the right way up this time too! NGC7000: 19x300s (plus dark, bias & flat) SW ED80 Pro + Modded 1000d Thanks for looking!
  14. Thanks Peter, I will update it as soon as I get the chance. Not sure whether to stick with 300s or throw some 600s shots into the mix. Ive compared the image to others and yep, it should be rotated by 90 clockwise. The framing is a little off too as im missing part of the left edge of the nebula (if it were rotated that is), yikes what a monster it is!
  15. Decided to go for this one as suggested by Billy, I had work the next day so I only managed to get 10x300s. The seeing was average to good with the odd passing cloud, im very pleased with the results but im not sure its the right way up. Something tells me it should be rotated clockwise by 90deg? Cant wait to add more to this one NGC7000 North american nebula 10x300s (plus flats, darks, bias) SW ED80 Pro + Modded 1000d Thanks for looking!
  16. Cheers Peter, I will add those little beasties to my "to do" list
  17. I know.... Im so excited I dont even know where to start! Will it show any extra detail on M101? It would be nice to update my m101 with a few extra shots.
  18. A tricky thing to get is M16, the horizon was a little murky last night so I only managed 6 shots before the high cloud made it not worth continuing. It was my first try with the self-modded 1000d too (rear filter removed). Lol... Im at the stage where I can strip one down in 15min now, mostly due to the fact that I had to get it open again due to having a few of specks of dust on the underside of the first filter. There are still 2 specs there, but theyre near the edge of the frame so I will leave it be. M16: 5x300s 1x600s Thanks for looking ED80 + 1000d
  19. Hiya, Ive just completed my homebrew 1000d mod (2nd filter removed), not exactly an easy thing to do as ive just found out (damn ribbon cables never go back in properly!!). Will I need to take a new set of flats now its modded? Cant wait to try it out
  20. Yeah, a head torch with red lights is dead useful as it will leave your hands free. You can pick them up at tesco for about a tenner - usually by the camping equipment. Oh, and while youre there get a foldaway chair, it will rest your weary back.
  21. Even if it still does work, you may still need a replacement rather than removal to protect from dust. Dont know if youve seen this page before, replacement is a must if youre going to do any imaging with a fraccy. Astronomiser - Automated Astronomy and AstroImaging Solutions
  22. Well pointed out... Its also toxic as well as corrosive, so it needs a good clean.
  23. Thats a capacitor, and judging by the gunk all over your pcb it must have popped for some unexplained reason. If you knew what size capacitor it was then you could have a go at changing it yourself, but see what ovl say first.
  24. mmmmmm.... mak newt Another bonus on that one is that it wont attract so much dust to the primary mirror (unlike a standard newt which is a dust magnet). But once you add a guidescope along with all the other gubbins its going to be rather bulky and not exactly grab & go. Personally, I think you should have both (an 80mm APO and a newt)... but which one first?? Ahhh.... Its a tough choice, but I think the 80ED wins hands-down in terms of clarity and ease/speed of use. The 150p/200p are quite popular (now with better focuser), maybe you could bung a APO fraccy on top and get the best of both? In any case, you will need to set aside at least another £500 if you intend to start imaging seriously (dslr, guidecam etc...).
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.