GTom

It's a 10 years old mount, no link sorry. I am 500 miles from it ATM, can't post pics either I am afraid. Both axes are stock motorized and I recently updated the firmware (03.39.10, from here: http://skywatcher.com/download/software/synscan-v3-hand-controller-firmware/)

I am afraid a doublet-triplet apo + reducer setup may already qualify for that "complex system" title. Can't recall which scope but I do remember seeing LA-CA on apo+reducer system (radial pattern, blue out red "in").

Thank you, This one is full goto with synscan 3, but I'll keep them in mind for later.

I pulled back last minute from a TS Photon 10" deal: my cameras are APSC and larger: the suggested GPU corrector vignettes 30%+ already on a 4/3 size sensor. That's still manageable with flats but gets useless quickly with anything larger. Upgrade would mean a 3"focuser AND a 3" corrector, each individually(!) costs around the same as the 10" Newtonian! Total cost would be near the price of a 140mm APO and we haven't even asked for a collimation-stable carbon tubing.

Paired with a 533mm, maybe even 294mm camera, that should be a great scope. Would not go much larger with sensors though.

Has anyone experience with the Z73+0.8x reducer on Full Frame? Does it deliver a nicely corrected result even in the corners? Or the triplet GT71 would be a safer bet? Both for daylight birding and AP

Two SCT reducer-correctors? Bad idea, those are not just reducers, they correct coma and field curvature (e.g. Starizona 0.63x): the second corrector would OVERCORRECT the aberrations. What MIGHT work: 0.63x sct reducer and a photographic speed booster, e.g. Metabones EOS-μ4/3 0.64x. This needs a micro 4/3 adapter on your camera (or you can use a converted, compatible micro 4/3 camera). Only zwo and svbony astrocameras can use the only micro 4/3 to t2 adapter on the market at the moment.

Besides Luminance frames, an APO with better BLUE that is OK for the old wider "ccd" B filters, could effectively add 10+% to your B channel compared to a lesser petforming one tgat needs to be filered from 420-450nm instead of 400.

I second Vlaiv, either the mount needs to grow or the scope needs to shrink :). If you like a little DIY, might try to tune your mount, that will turn it to a great transportable unit for 70-80mm refractors but the Newtonian is still a tough one.

I am looking for a telephoto-replacement, something that packs well, still longer FL than my 2.8/200 canon. Came across this little Altair, has anyone had a closer encounter/FF imaging with the scope+reducer setup? E.g how would it compare to the Zenithstar 73? The glass description is somewhat cryptic "Low Index Flouro-Crown Glass ED element", I suspect something lesser than F-PL53. Other factor is the focuser: only 2", I feel it could be a little narrow for FF with a reducer. I intend to use it for daylight bird and cetacean photography and wouldn't mind if vignetting could be kept at minimal.

You don't need to go to remote dark sites to do planetary if, as you said, that's your intention. Likely need to get out of the city for better seeing, that is true. For planetary the cpc version of the scope with the tabletop tripod might be your best portable friend. Deep sky is a different story, as above suggested, check the user feedback on the various harmonic drive mounts.

DSO AP with 1500mm FL, F12, on an AZ mount? Because that is what the OP has if I understood correctly...

For DSO's I see two entry points around £500, obviously both with compromise: second hand 130-150mm Newtonian with motorized RA-axis. There is e.g. an Astromaster 130EQ on ABsell (I have no connection to the seller). That setup will give you room for ~30sec lucky imaging, the Dobsonian not. Alternative is a tracker capable of carrying a 200mm telephoto lens. Both options need a modified DSLR, which can be sourced as normal DSLR's from ebay and DIY full-spectrum modded following e.g. the procedures on lifepixel. E.g: canon 2000D around £200, matching "L" clip filter: ~£80. Advisable to learn some DIY around cameras and gear, especially if cost is of concern. Ready astro-modded cameras are usually generations older for more ££.

The Mak is a perfect PLANETARY scope. Have you tried that aspect, taking videos with your scope+a Barlow 2x? Jupiter is on show in the mornings now! I know the Redcat is very popular, but also very expensive for what it can deliver. You can get the same results with an old 2.8/180mm telephoto stopped down to f/4, and you don't need to worry about adapters & Co. Have you astro-modded your D3200 yet?

If you do planetary lucky imaging, sure. For DSO-s in real life seeing and guiding will limit your resolution long before the 6" will.

Sure, you can "flat out" anything, but what's the point of having an 8" scope if it works like (collects light, resolves) an 6" should?

Brilliant summary, many thanks!

many thanks! May was fantastic up here as well!

That one looks good! For US-flights you might need American FCC marking on it because of the BMS chip.

Email the specific airlines and airports you are planning to use and print the outcome. BTW you'll most likely get these cheaper in the US, if you can get it shipped to where you are staying can just order from the American amazon/ebay. Make sure what you are buying has all kind of CE, FCC, whatever labels and terminals are sealed. One strong argument though for the bigger Celestron powertank is that it maxes out the allowed capacity, close to 160Wh (hopefully real...). Can't find many other 12-13Ah (150Wh) LiFePO4 units.

I don't buy a power bank, buying 12V LiFePO4 packs, got a Miady 7.2Ah working perfectly fine, paid 40 quid on Amazon last year. The jury is out if I just buy two more of the same type or try to find a 150-160Wh unit that is airline-compatible. LiFePO4 provides remarkably stable voltage between 10 and 90% charge, compatible with all astro-junk we're using without adding any additional reg circuits.

I was looking in to this, considering picking up a TS Photon 10" piece with an Aplanatic (GPU?) corrector, that one has a large, 88mm secondary. Perfect match so far. However, no free lunch I am afraid: the 2" focuser is too tight in my books. The alternative was the StellaLyra with 3" focuser. But that one has a small, 70mm secondary -> &#@&--bang. The theory: the corrector has a 44mm diameter (allow for internal 42?), length is 108mm. The systems backfocus is 55mm, placing the sensor a total of 163mm away from the "42mm neck". If the corrector was a simple 42mm ID tube, it would yield a 42-(163/4) ~=1mm clear, fully illuminated field. Fortunately it is not just a tube, the actual light path within the corrector may help. Still, even 4/3 sensors show some vignetting in their corners, afraid the situation with my 35mm diagonal sensor would be far worse.

That is a valid point, the lack of bearings could haunt the process. Reading though that the much newer eqm-35 doesn't have bearings either. Seems I need to step up to azeq5 level in case I decide to trade up. If I get a single hour of clear sky this week, I'll test how the mount is performing in its actual state.

I am not sure if we see vignetting or light reflection on your copy. There are no sharp edges like in the original post. Still, reflected light is a problem that needs to be mitigated to our best capacities. I wonder if using Baader's 3.5nm filter that I got would make any difference.

Dare I ask fellow cloudgazers from Cornwall how their Summer season went? Thinking on a trip to Land's End next week...