RolandKol

just in case if @Marmo720 you want to look at them directlly,

I have placed them here

https://we.tl/t-NGasNtAx9s

17 minutes ago, vlaiv said:

I agree, there is some strange effect - but I don't see it be on front of the lens - it will not spread like that what ever shape it has on front of the lens - things will only get darker and that is about it.

It needs to be somewhere inside system - flattener probably as sensor is not cooled and it is warmer than rest of the gear and it will not allow for frost / dew to form.

yep... 

it may be on the flattener as the sensor was around 17C all the time...
strange...

The one in the front is the stack of all subs

and 50% stack is here

as we can see, we had 2 problems at once.

Lights subs were taken during clouds or the frost was in place

plus, - Flats not doing their job as underexposed....

Maybe something else, - but I would start from here.

Blink vid here

https://youtu.be/Z03XYj-6h6c

The more I look at it... the more I think it was frost..... Not sure....

50% stack incomming

P.S. it is my first Blink vid, - not sure how to increase the quality...

on PI it looks a bit better

2 minutes ago, vlaiv said:

Are we talking about same set of subs posted earlier?

How do you explain my calibration with single sub and the fact that central part is over corrected while edges are under corrected?

I cannot explain that, - have no relevant knowledge...

Will stack half of the session later  on and see that we have. PI now generating the Bling movie and I am cooking....  a bit too much of multitasking

Found the issue...
Decided to Blink all lights before stacking again...

Problem hides in the Lights.... Cloud came in....

half of them should be deleted before stacking....

Blink is generating the video at the moment, - will upload it soon also

Will stack without flats soon and see what we have.

Ok, so I took some time and stacked them all.

I have autoremoved background from Light without any cropping and autostreached them using delinger script on Pi...

Single subs did look nice and even master Flat looks even, but after correction it kills the right side of the images...

AutoStreached Dark

Flat

Single Light

Light (stacked)

And the last, very interesting one, is Higher pixerl rejection map, which is genereted by Pi image integration tool

20 minutes ago, James82 said:

I was thinking that myself I don’t find eBay  to cheap tbh I will always look though on various sites even part exchange my own eq5 syn scan! 

keep an eye on https://www.astrobuysell.com/uk/

it does have NEQ6 listings quite often

17 hours ago, James82 said:

Hi I’m only a back garden observer I currently use a 200p explorer although fantastic next year I want to upgrade to a heq5 pro and then purchase the 250pds I’m not to worried about guide scopes and stuff Bit of visual if I did put a camera it would be basic! I don’t like seeing decent scopes covered in wires! I’m guessing the weight would be ok for this? Many thanks James 

Not sure about visual, 

but with any basic cam, - it will not work with a bit longer exposures.... You may get away with planetary imaging... but not DSO, as mount will stuggle to track properly, 

plus... such a big scope will catch wind quite easy...

Also...

keep in mind... once you place a "basic" cam on... you will be doomed...

You will most likely will get sucked into that "black hole of astrophotography" without any chance to escape....  
HEQ5, in this case, is for 130PDS max... even 200P is a bit too large for HEQ5 if AP way is chosen.

In your case, I would stay with 200P and as @carastro suggested,  would check for NEQ6, - the second hand ones can be realitively cheap.
 

P.S. Will try stacking them on Monday...
Flats actually do look matching the lights, which have almost no vignetting...

I would guess, - result should be OK...

lets see

31 minutes ago, RolandKol said:

Lights 24mb per sub,

Darks/Bias - 19mb

Flats -22mb

I guess, you may have incorrect settings on APT for calibration subs..

Just checked my old Canon files,

they have different sizes also...

Please ignore my previous msg...
 

Just a quick observation (loud thinking)...

Flats should be a fracture of the second, - somewhere around one third of the sec .
It can be a second also, but 10s is a bit too much in terms of efficency... it takes too long... and short flats usually work OK.

Not sure if such a dim light, which enables 10sec Flats subs, is an issue, - but it may be.

6 hours ago, Marmo720 said:

Hi all,

Below are links to my files from last week. Not having luck with stacking and cleaning the image so hope the community wisdom will help spot what I might be doing wrong and how to improve it. 

My camera is astromod Canon 600D, I have a field flattener on that and using an Altair Wave 80. I am using APT for capture, PHD2 for guidance with ASI 224 and I am applying dithering. Finally, I use DSS for stacking and a quick check on GIMP or Photoshop shows bright white halo in the middle and darker outsides. 

Many thanks in advance for any help.

Lights: https://we.tl/t-9O4TS659iR?src=dnl

Flats @ ISO100: https://we.tl/t-7UAh1fkHKr?src=dnl

Flats @ ISO800: https://we.tl/t-GtRCNFfw5X?src=dnl

Darks: https://we.tl/t-WTV5rQXlVg?src=dnl

Bias: https://we.tl/t-8RNquuP4ZE?src=dnl

Hi Mo,

is there any particular reason why your different sub types have the different sizes???

Very strange....
Lights 24mb per sub,

Darks/Bias - 19mb

Flats -22mb

I guess, you may have incorrect settings on APT for calibration subs..

19 minutes ago, carastro said:

Hopefully my eyes will have recovered by this evening after going to the eye clinic today.  Had eye drops to dilate the pupils 4.5 hours ago and still can't see properly.

Carole 

Sad to hear it...
I hope you will get better soon

2 hours ago, Marmo720 said:

The flats alone look fine to me in that I can see the slight vignetting and and dust bunnies that would be subtracted from the lights. Unfortunately, once I have stacked them in DSS with the lights, the final image looks bright at the centre and darker on the outsides. To the point where there is a massive bright halo around my target. 

In saying that, I sent the final tiff to @carastro and @RolandKol, and both produced fantastic looking images after some processing so maybe that is where my issue is? I just don't remember seeing such a huge halo back in the summer when I was using ISO100 for flats and found I could process easier. Hopefully skies stay clear tonight and I can produce a bunch of different flats to see what works.

Nope mate...

As I mentioned before, I was made to crop the most of the image ;(
As Carole said, it looks like flats are not applied properly, - so maybe you have a mistake in your staking routine?
So if possible, drop the files into the share drive (all lights and new/old flats, also Master-bias, Master-dark (to save download/upload times).
I will try to stack them to check if the result is the same, I have nothing to do anyway as my Filters are not yet arrived!!! (getting furious!!!!  but maybe that's the reason, you guys, have some clear skies...  )

Hi guys,

Has anyone found any non-glossy PETG?

I am planning to print some baffles for my SW 130PDS...

Cannot find anything in UK... I think I will end up painting them, but I would like to avoid that

42 minutes ago, 8472 said:

Are there any owner's who know if the OTA will cover a full frame sensor without vignetting, coma and the like?

Thanks

Try asking @Uranium235 directly, maybe he will advice
The link below is to his comment about the equipment he used back in 2014

Nope, I meant, -  if you noticed any focus change while you been using Bahtinov aid software and once you lock your focus by using the lock bolt shown in the pic.

On 17/10/2019 at 09:29, RolandKol said:

**********

So once you get your "perfect" focus, - lock the focuser and check the Bahtinov Aid figures again... Lets hope you will not have much tilt and figures will not run away/change a lot 
To be honest, - "Locking" was my main pain while focusing Manually....
****************

8 hours ago, masjstovel said:

First result with the ASI1600! Fish head nebula IC 1795 (Yes i will need that autofocuser...)

Nice start!

And yes, Autofocus makes life much easier... especially in Mono.

What about your focus tube tilt? have you noticed any while locking the focus?

Also, 
with or without a tripod/mount?

Very nice data!
but the stars....

You probably need to make (or 3D print) a spider vein and attach/hide camera cables to each vein to make star spikes more symmetric...

16 hours ago, Thalestris24 said:

The base raft was still attached - I didn't bother taking it off as the part was broken. Here is pic of same part reprinted. Seems fine to me.

Louise 

Just a small note for the future,

Especially for the parts which are external (like cases and etc), which you would like to have "nice and shiny", - enable Combing>Not In The Skin.

It will stop printer's travels above the flat/surface area and you will not have these diagonall strypes. Surface will look much nicer, but it will print a bit longer as travels will be via perimeter.

P.S.

As per rethorical question about material for hinges:

For this type of model and In theory, the best material should be Nylon. But PETG or PLA would be more practical option for Ender 3.

1 hour ago, Thalestris24 said:

I was  just wondering about which filament material would be ok out in all weathers?

Louise

I also vote for PETG, as I had nasty PLA experience during a summer time....

OMG...
I just found Tenlog 3D Hands 2...

Very interested..... they do have even larger ones.... cheap... but... this is probably that  I want 
please, talk me AWAY from THIS Purchase....