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RayD

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Posts posted by RayD

  1. I think the biggest mistake that people make with this target is to overdo the exposure length in order to drag as much detail out of the dust as possible.  Clearly you've identified this issue and understand the problem it causes witht the main (seven sisters) stars, as they are pretty bright.  My advice is shorter subs, and lots of them.  Alternatively you can take some long (for the dust) and some short (for the stars) and process them separately in order to blend the pair.

    BTW, 2 mins is still actually quite long for the stars on M45, particularly with a CMOS sensor.  From memory when I imaged it last I think I only used 30s subs for the stars. However, 2 minutes, or even slightly longer (3 mins) will be fine if you want to do some work on dealing with the stars in post.

    I'm sure there will be many others who will have their own stories of 15 min expusures with no problems, but my experience of M45 is that, whilst an easy target to image, it's one of the harder ones to image well.

    • Like 1
  2. 37 minutes ago, Shaun Sr said:

    What kind of cords do I need to connect my edge HDA on an AVX mount with star sense to my laptop to be able to use likes stellarium or whatever the best program is to control my computer do I need to get to different cords one to convert it to usB plug or can I get a cord that as the phone Jack on 1 end and usb on the other end already?

    You'll need something like this, which will allow the connection to the computer.  The starsense handset is basically the same as the standard one but includes the firmware for the starsense hardware.  You'll also need this cable if you want to do any firmware updates.

    If you already have a RS232 cable with a RJ9 socket, then you can just get a convertor like this.

    Basically your handset plugs in to the HC port, and your starsense plugs in to the Aux1 port, with the mini USB cable from the Starsense unit going directly to the PC.

    The cable shown plugs in to the small RJ11 plug in the bottom of the handset.

    • Thanks 1
  3. I think that's made a very noticeable difference.  The nebulosity seems far more punchy, with more detail and 'pop'.  It has also definitely improved the background.

    I'm looking forward to processing my data now.  I started blinking the images last night and had to ditch a couple but should still be enough.  If I get this from it I'll be happy.

    • Like 1
  4. 1 minute ago, maw lod qan said:

    Yes, black and white with so much "snow" I thought I lived in the arctic, not Florida!

    Oh how things have changed! To think how clearly we can see images now from the orbiters all the way out to Pluto!

    But, Juno and Cassini would have to be my favorites!

    You know I was thinking just this when watching the docking of the Dragon module from the Space X launch.  It looked more like a video game, with 4k clarity meaning it seemed almost unreal (it definitely was before any conspiracy theorists think I am questioning it 😂).  When I watch footage of the Eagle module landing it seems so real and involving.  

    • Like 1
  5. 51 years ago today Neil Armstrong and Buzz Aldrin stepped out on to the surface of our moon.  Given that no one had ever stepped foot on to this surface before it was a pretty momentous occasion, and watched on TV by an estimated 1/5 of the world's population.

    How much of it do you remember, if at all, and did this specific event kick start your interest in astronomy or science in general?

    • Like 1
  6. Yep, every day. Drips from above 56 will do. 68 is fully submersible ie swimming pool lights, pond pumps etc. 67 can go outside and will take splashes from all directions. 

    All my outside connectors md boxes are 68, which are cheap enough but have to be made off in accordance with the instructions to work properly. 

    • Thanks 1
  7. 23 hours ago, Jkulin said:

    Thanks Ray, I hope it was worth reading ...lol

    Yes a RoR would have been so much easier, but a shed or summerhouse smack in the middle of the garden would not have looked right and if I am honest it doesn't look too bad now and will look even better when painted.

    More importantly it works perfectly on the offsets which was a worry.

    Anyway you are in Spain you should be enjoying the local vino not reading through all my trials and tribulations 🙂

    Oh it is definitely the perfect solution and fit here, John, just admiring your dedication to it.  It looks great and seemingly operates just as well.  

    It looks superb, inside and out 👍

    I do sometime wished I did drink just so a could have a nice Rioja. However, the alcohol free beers are a good substitute for me and plenty of them are being had 😉

    • Haha 1
  8. 20 hours ago, Ken82 said:

    I think the gert Neumann M68 will be a better more robust solution. 

    Totally agree, Ken.  I believe they have a unique adjustment method also which makes it much easier to use when in place.  Great piece of kit and may well be investing myself too.

  9. Not sure if all Baader focusers are made in the same way ie use similar draw tubes, but some definitely do unscrew.  Obviously I don't know your specific one, but if you can see it is definitely one piece, then it isn't going to work, but sometimes it is actually quite hard to tell.  In the thread where this image came from the OP replaced the compression end with a click lock.

    Baader.png.c8996dbc4e33e7ee80a77dedb504dd21.png

  10. 7 minutes ago, Stuart1971 said:

    Hmmm, most unscrew....maybe most new ones, but I have never had one that unscrews until my Tak.... ☹️

    That Flattener is designed to go on the end of the skywatcher focuser tube, which does unscrew, but the OP has a Baader focuser and not sure about those... 🤔🤔

    No problem. I have several from different manufacturers (SW, TS, ES, Moonlite and Tak) and they all unscrew, so if this one doesn't then it's not going to work that way and the only option is a nose cone if using it.

    • Like 1
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