RayD

Yes the smooth running of a focuser can be a bit of a problem for imaging.  I had exactly the same issue on the Televue APO I was using and had to use the focuser lock for anything above 60 degrees.  The electronic focuser do act as a brake which solves the problem.

I see yours is brand new so I wouldn't expect to see optical issues on it, but they definitely aren't unheard of.  Is that a ASI1600?

Is this using the SestoSenso to focus, Ken?

Unfortunately it isn't unheard of for this kind problem to exist on an FSQ106.  I had to send mine off to Tak Europe (France) which was a bit painful, but it came back about 4 weeks later absolutely perfect.  I use mine with a APS-H sensor, which is a reasonable size, so it did show up the problems in the corners pretty clearly.

Steve Chambers from Atik does a pretty good and simple to understand presentation on CMOS gain here.

Not a bad go at all with a phone shot.  Well done 👍

Ah ok so that pretty much agrees with my one.  Good stuff, thanks.

According to my ISS app it is coming over later this evening (22:57 - 23:01).  I'm confused now 😂

Looking good.  

The through the mount cabling is excellent and not given a hiccup on mine to date, so definitely a good move there.

Much better, Rodd.

I always view images in hi-res if possible, as this is how the poster intends them to be viewed in my opinion.  I like the additional detail which is there in hi-res versions too.

Last rendition is much better.  Seems to be much more subtle and not sharpened as much.

All good images, but last one, for me, is noticeably better.

1 hour ago, happy-kat said:

Doesn't the skywatcher also have time lapse and camera trigger options, 

It does.  Along with lunar and solar rates.

I have and use a SA and it works great with the RedCat and Cannon 450D DSLR (I've replied to your comment on YouTube (thanks for the sub)).  I do hear good things also about the iOptron, so I guess it comes down to which one you prefer the look of.

Both will work fine with your proposed imaging rig.

Great re-process, Geof. Well worth going back on that one.

I reckon he may have used it with an EQ6 which would explain the additional 3 holes in the head, which I assume have been drilled in there.

If you look at the original add on ABS you can report the ad, which may be worth doing also as it will directly link to the specific ad.

I'm always cautious of ads which don't have pictures and don't even look at ones without.  I wonder if he's done that deliberately as someone could report it and say that isn't an EQ6 tripod.

Fingers crossed you get your money back and he gets barred.

6 minutes ago, wookie1965 said:

Yes working now what's this called, I call it the North peg but must have a proper name. 

I've always referred to it as the azimuth dowel pin.

It's a shame that there are people out there who are prepared to do this.  I agree with others, short of knocking on his door and suggesting he refund you in full, in that a small claim is the only route, with the claim registration notification often being enough to prompt refund as he will probably want to avoid court.

Best of luck with getting a full refund.

What an excellent idea 👏🏻👏🏻

5 minutes ago, DaveS said:

OK, I've registered with Zoom, but as I don't have a webcam on this computer will I be crippled in my access? Think my old lappy has a cam.

No, you can join Zoom with or without video.  You can join by phone if you don't have a computer.

I think I understand what you are trying to say, albeit I do agree with some of the above in that you haven't explained it very well.

SGL is incredibly welcoming to new members, and you will always find people willing and happy to provide help and guidance to not only newcomers, but those with more experience who are perhaps trying different equipment or software for the first time.  However, what can be difficult for beginners to decipher is the right information from the varying opinions which they will receive.  Each person has their own view on certain equipment, software, methods and ways and, as you appear to be saying, will put that point across with some vigour as it is their experience.  The one thing that is generally the case, as I'm sure you will agree if you look through many of these posts, is that everyone will say get Steve Richards' excellent book, and go to @FLO for your bits as they will offer good and expert advice.

I think you raise a valid point of help potentially raising confusion, but you really need to have all the information and ammunition to make a balanced decision and, in my experience, most of the advice given on these forums is pretty good, and delivered in such a way as to put other forums I could mention to shame.

No problem,

I've not used the reducer, but I'm not entirely sure that it doesn't actually sit inside the CAA if used, rather than screw to it.  I can see no reason why the CAA would go after it.

I think it may be worth dropping FLO a line as Ian King is probably the man that would know for sure.

16 minutes ago, BlondeBimbo said:

Sorry to latch on to this thread, and your post in particular @RayD but I am also having problems looking at the Back distance on a similar setup to yours.

I am looking at the Tak TKA36580L 0.72 flattener - it has a back distance of 72.8mm

The Tak diagram shows this should have the 6A (TKA86200) rotator (M98F - M98M) then the 8A (TKA86003) adaptor (M98F - M54F) after it (these add up to 72.8mm themselves) , but then you need a M54M - M48? adaptor to go on to the EFW3 (21.8mm) and then the camera itself (19.5mm) - even if you can then remove the 7mm spacer  this would give an additional 34.5mm beyond the flattener back distance without even including the additional adaptors needed between M54 and the EFW3!

 

How did you get over this?

 

BB

Hi.  Is this on a FSQ106?  I think that may be a reducer and not a flattener as the Petzval design negates the need for an external flattener.  In any case, the distance will still be critical, but the elements you are noting I suspect will be before the reducer rather than after.

I'll have a look at the specifications of the item you listed and let you know, but for me I don't use a reducer, and had a custom adapter made.

Yes, I use my 6 black to do time lapses and night lapses (Milky Way).  I use LRTimelapse 5 for the processing and have had some super results.

Cheapest way, generally, that I've found is usually MyHermes, but performance can be a bit hit and miss.  Still signed for etc. but delivered by local people in their cars rather than full time employees.

40 minutes ago, symmetal said:

Hi Ray,

SGP 'High Speed Download' setting is only used during frame and focus, auto focus and plate solving. ie. temporary frames which aren't kept. Also the camera has to support this option for it to have an effect. For sequences it is ignored and the normal download speed is used. High speed download does give images with more noise.

Alan

Hi Alan.  Yes that's what I'm trying to say, not very clearly, the artefacts which are there in F&F with high speed download checked, will not be there in the main sequence images.  My apologies as I may have read wrongly, as is often the case, but thought that is what is happening here.  

With the 16200 it was particularly bad, making it hard sometimes to frame images as they completely washed out, so unchecking high speed download for F&F was essential.

If the same artefacts are there during the actual sequence then I don't know why, as the bad artefacts are only there in F&F with high speed download checked, in my experiences.

Yes this can happen in frame and focus when using the high speed download function, and changes in severity depending on sensor.  With the 16200 it could be particularly bad, sometimes pretty much washing the image out.  Unchecking "use high speed download" in the camera module fixed this.  

None of the artefacts showing in frame and focus are there on the main sequence images.  If it isn't this then I'm not really sure, but it does seem odd otherwise that they are there for F&F but not in the main images.

5 minutes ago, Skipper Billy said:

Does that make a difference Ray??

One thing I found that made a difference was turning off the IR light on the obsy night vision webcam - much better with it turned off.

It does, David.  Only for frame and focus, not on a sequence.

I agree with the IR light.  I've used a Yi camera for some time now (I see you do too) which has the function to turn the IR light off remotely, which I do when imaging.

Very good, like it a lot.